The rust is a nice touch. Just needs some salt creep! LoL!My next mixing station
:rolling-on-the-floor-laughing:
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The rust is a nice touch. Just needs some salt creep! LoL!My next mixing station
:rolling-on-the-floor-laughing:
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Happy to be part of the Tank & Learn journey!
Randy chose the Original TBS Package for his build. This is an olde school ratio of 1lb live sand, 1lb base rock and 1lb premium rock per gallon of the display tank. It is ALOT of rock. The good thing is that the Original Package is based on gallons in the display aquarium and not the whole system, so extra rock can easily move into the sump (refugium or cryptic chamber). Randy mentioned the Brute brigade as an option for extra pounds, and there we have it.
The great thing about the "Package" is that it ships in 2 phases. Phase 1 cycles the tank effortlessly with live sand and ocean farmed base rock. No guessing if the tank is cycled, no sacrificial fish, no stinky shrimp, no bottled bacteria and best of all, no worries! Phase 2 bolsters the microorganism community with the addition of premium rock and a general clean up crew. It is important an aquarium be cycled / established with sand & base rock before the addition of delicate premium rock hitchhikers like corals, bivalves, sponges, tunicates, macroalgae, etc.
When following this recipe most large tanks experience no ammonia spikes / ammonia readings. This is because used in the appropriate ratios, healthy ocean lifeforms are processing ammonia as they should. Shipping live rock submerged is vital to keep these beneficial organisms alive and ready to get to work in a sterile environment / new tank.
Jocelyn selects rock specifically for EVERY order. In general, she will choose a variety of shapes, mix of sizes and diversity of hitchhikers. We do our best to accommodate customers' specific requests in terms of rock sizes, shapes and hitchhikers. Now is the time to let us know if you have a request, as the team will be harvesting soon for the next shipping groups.
Looking forward to it and Rock on.
My next mixing station
:rolling-on-the-floor-laughing:
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Why not optimize throughput. if the filter & sump can handle the flow why not treat your return like a powerhead?Return Pump Turnover Rate
Perfect topic for a discussion. :)
I'm expecting to have pretty low turnover. 1x per hours seems plenty to me for these reasons:
1. In tank flow is provided by in tank powerheads (the Tunze stream 6105 eco). Each provides 3,000 to 12,000 L per h flow. In a 120 gallon tank, that's 6.6 to 26 x turnover on each one. I do not anticipate running them near 100%.
2. I cannot think of anything that would change in the water in the tank in less than an hour that necessitates it being run through the filtration system. Not temperature, O2, pH, organics, waste products, etc.
3. Lower return flow is easier to accommodate from return pumps and from overflows and return pipes, with potentially lower sound.
Does anyone see a reason to want higher than 1x turnover per hour?
Why not optimize throughput. if the filter & sump can handle the flow why not treat your return like a powerhead?
I've been doing it on my system; also an Oceanic 120. I was running a 3500 Gph pump on it without issue. recently I added two 70 gallon frag tanks and another 3500 gph pump for those.
The pumps have variable flow so they are pretty effective at generating flow with random flow nozzles.


This looks like rock behind the brute, like you're in a cave. If it is cave-like, I am jealous!Refugia
Here are two pictures of what the early stage refugium looks like. It will normally have the lid on with an exhaust fan pulling air out (more on air handling later).
The led bulbs are suspended from the ceiling and shine through holes in the Brute lid. Right now I’m using a too-small lid since I came up one short on the 9 cans I’m using.
All of the dark color at the bottom are the macroalgae. Too soon to tell how it is doing.
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This looks like rock behind the brute, like you're in a cave. If it is cave-like, I am jealous!

Durso I believe. I run mine like this too, except in both my tanks with internal overflows I have 2 1" holes.Overflow Design
Tank has two overflows, each with 2 holes in the tank bottom.
There are all sorts of designs for overflow pipes, including a very sophisticated 3 hole design by beananimal
Silent & Fail-Safe Aquarium Overflow System | BeanAnimal's Reef
Build the world famous "Bean Animal" silent and fail-safe aquarium overflow system. No noise, no adjustment, no floods. A truly set and forget setup that makes the Durso and Stockman style of standpipes obsolete! Build your own today!beananimal.com
With two holes in each overflow, I went with a design that has two straight down emergency overflows (using the 3/4" pipes, expanded to 1" diameter at the top to reduce chances of a single piece of crud clogging it) that would go full siphon if needed, and two 1" pipes that have a top that looks like these (forget the name).
I used this setup in my previous version and it worked fine, perhaps because I do not run a ton of water through them. Very quiet.
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Is it true that I don’t really need that much turnover to my sump? I always ran a high turnover because I thought my skimmer would remove more waste.Agreed. I think it’s a carry over from long ago before powerheads ruled the tank. :)
Is it true that I don’t really need that much turnover to my sump? I always ran a high turnover because I thought my skimmer would remove more waste.
I think I’m running 7x turnover.
I’m at 10x since Bob, my next door neighbor, is only at 5x. I think that I’m happier and so is my tank! ;)Is it true that I don’t really need that much turnover to my sump? I always ran a high turnover because I thought my skimmer would remove more waste.
I think I’m running 7x turnover.
I’m at 10x since Bob, my next door neighbor, is only at 5x. I think that I’m happier and so is my tank! ;)