Redsea Reefer Overflow Box Tweaks

[TastyScrants]

Hello,

Let’s talk about the Redsea reefer tanks overflow box.

Specifically, for those that use a feed mode on your return pumps.

Do you find that after ending feed mode, the overflow box fills entirely and the water starts going down the emergency drain pipe? And continues to do this for several hours, never returning to your previous water level?

Does anyone have any tips to stop this happening? Other than the obvious “don’t use feed mode” - but why waste the food by filtering it straight into my roller mat?

I’ll have my water level in the overflow box nice and stable 1cm below the emergency drain pipe all day, until feed mode is used.

Some preemptive information:
The tank is 1 month old so it’s clean.
I have checked for blockages.
I had the same issue on a previous reefer tank which I’d modified with a gate valve.

Looking forward to hearing tips from the community.

Kind regards,
The Big Man.

 

[blaxsun]

When you use "Feed Mode", does your pump turn off completely? I control my return pumps through my Apex so when I hit "Feed Mode" on it the pumps just throttle down (so the overflow actually empties, and then just slow fills back up again once the return pump resumes normal operation).

 

[TastyScrants]

When you use "Feed Mode", does your pump turn off completely? I control my return pumps through my Apex so when I hit "Feed Mode" on it the pumps just throttle down (so the overflow actually empties, and then just slow fills back up again once the return pump resumes normal operation).

Yes it does turn off completely, there’s no option to keep running at a reduced volume.

 

[blaxsun]

Yes it does turn off completely, there’s no option to keep running at a reduced volume.

You could try running the water level maybe 0.5-1.0cm lower in the overflow. Are you running the filter basket with media on your ReefMat?

 

[TastyScrants]

You could try running the water level maybe 0.5-1.0cm lower in the overflow. Are you running the filter basket with media on your ReefMat?

I’ve tired gradually lowering it, it seems to stop if I drop it a good 10cm below the overflow but my concern is that could cause salinity swings as the tank is only 223L after displacement.

No I took that off about a year ago.

 

[blaxsun]

I’ve tired gradually lowering it, it seems to stop if I drop it a good 10cm below the overflow but my concern is that could cause salinity swings as the tank is only 223L after displacement.

No I took that off about a year ago.

Have you cleaned your gate valve? (obvious next question)

 

[TastyScrants]

Have you cleaned your gate valve? (obvious next question)

Yes I did that last weekend to check for blockages. There was barely any biofilm on it as the tank has only been running a month (it was an upgrade from an older system).

I’ll clean the pump on my next maintenance day but I think that’ll be similar to the gate valve.

 

[chipchipbro]

Well, with my red sea reefer I only have problems... one day it is gurgling becase it is barley filled with water and in the next few hours its completely filled with water...

I can do what I want.. and I am not the only one @Hurricane Aquatics

 

[blaxsun]

Yes I did that last weekend to check for blockages. There was barely any biofilm on it as the tank has only been running a month (it was an upgrade from an older system).

I’ll clean the pump on my next maintenance day but I think that’ll be similar to the gate valve.

If the system is that young the pump is probably fine.

 

[blaxsun]

Well, with my red sea reefer I only have problems... one day it is gurgling becase it is barley filled with water and in the next few hours its completely filled with water...

I can do what I want.. and I am not the only one @Hurricane Aquatics

I just fixed a friend's Reefer 350 that was "gurgling" a bit as well. So yes, while this is a fairly common issue - it's relatively easy to fix. At least for me anyway...

 

[chipchipbro]

I just fixed a friend's Reefer 350 that was "gurgling" a bit as well. So yes, while this is a fairly common issue - it's relatively easy to fix. At least for me anyway...

And how you you fix it?
With a Durso?

My problem is that sometimes its going down the emergency overflow and the waterlevel in the sump is changing. Means that my ATO is filling and filling and wont stop until my ATO Reservoir is almost empty..

Then some hours later the water level in the sump is crazy high and the overflow is again normal... its switching

 

[blaxsun]

And how you you fix it?
With a Durso?

My problem is that sometimes its going down the emergency overflow and the waterlevel in the sump is changing. Means that my ATO is filling and filling and wont stop until my ATO Reservoir is almost empty..

Then some hours later the water level in the sump is crazy high and the overflow is again normal... its switching

No. As a point of fact, I'm actually using the older (black) gate valve on my own 750XXL without any issues. I've fixed water level issues on several Red Sea tanks with both the older and newer gate valves - and it was just a question of making some small adjustments.

The short answer to resolve this is to start taking things out of the equation. Take your ATO offline, set a constant pump speed, adjust the gate valve (very slowly, ie: 1/8" to 1/4" turns) to balance the overflow, ensure you're running the black sponge in the sump and get the water level in the sump balanced (it should be about inch or so below the glass piece with the black dots in the refugium chamber). Only then add the ATO back online.

I never have to touch my gate valve, pump speed or ATO. And my pump ramps up and down for maintenance as well as feeding - so my water levels do fluctuate.

 

[chipchipbro]

No. As a point of fact, I'm actually using the older (black) gate valve on my own 750XXL without any issues. I've fixed water level issues on several Red Sea tanks with both the older and newer gate valves - and it was just a question of making some small adjustments.

The short answer to resolve this is to start taking things out of the equation. Take your ATO offline, set a constant pump speed, adjust the gate valve (very slowly, ie: 1/8" to 1/4" turns) to balance the overflow, ensure you're running the black sponge in the sump and get the water level in the sump balanced (it should be about inch or so below the glass piece with the black dots in the refugium chamber). Only then add the ATO back online.

I never have to touch my gate valve, pump speed or ATO. And my pump ramps up and down for maintenance as well as feeding - so my water levels do fluctuate.

Wait a second - what black sponge? Is there a black sponge in thered sea reefer 200 XL?
I am also unsure what the glass piece with the black dots is.

I have a black glass piece which is adjustbale in height and behind is the glass piece which is not adjustable.
Is there a black sponge in between these two glass pieces?

 

[blaxsun]

Wait a second - what black sponge? Is there a black sponge in thered sea reefer 200 XL?
I am also unsure what the glass piece with the black dots is.

I have a black glass piece which is adjustbale in height and behind is the glass piece which is not adjustable.
Is there a black sponge in between these two glass pieces?

There should be, yes (it's supposed to go between the two glass plates). The plastic piece that attaches to the glass plate that slides up and down is for setting the water level in your sump chamber. The black sponge helps regulate water levels, eliminate splashing noise and traps anything large to prevent it from entering the return pump chamber (sorry I don't have an image of mine, but it's a square or rectangular block of black foam that fits snuggly in that spot).



This is my sump. Along the front you can see various horizontal glass strips that were attached with "dots" of silicone. This will vary depending on the sump, but the top pieces holds the internal RO reservoir in-place (I've removed mine) and the lower pieces normally house the sock filter tray (also removed on mine to accommodate the ReefMat). This is just a reference for what's an ideal water level in your sump.

 

[TastyScrants]

I took my bubble trap out as it was just catching the detritus bypassing my reefmat from the water entering the emergency drain.

I’ll try adding some baffles back in. I had some issues with my DC RSK300 skimmer and Redsea advised removing some baffles to reduce cavitation. Now my issue with the skimmer is resolve I’ll try adding one back to observe the impact on the overflow level.

I’m wondering if adding a non return valve to my plumbing would help to prevent back siphoning and reduce the required fill volume of the overflow after turning the pump back on.

 

[slingfox]

There should be, yes (it's supposed to go between the two glass plates). The plastic piece that attaches to the glass plate that slides up and down is for setting the water level in your sump chamber. The black sponge helps regulate water levels, eliminate splashing noise and traps anything large to prevent it from entering the return pump chamber (sorry I don't have an image of mine, but it's a square or rectangular block of black foam that fits snuggly in that spot).



This is my sump. Along the front you can see various horizontal glass strips that were attached with "dots" of silicone. This will vary depending on the sump, but the top pieces holds the internal RO reservoir in-place (I've removed mine) and the lower pieces normally house the sock filter tray (also removed on mine to accommodate the ReefMat). This is just a reference for what's an ideal water level in your sump.

Thank you for the picture. I will double check against my setup. I am trying to reduce Reefmat usage so will see if I can lower the water level in my sump.

 

[TX_REEF]

Can you leave the return pump on while feeding and simply shut off the circulation pumps/power heads? Or are you on a closed loop or something that has your return pump super powerful? I agree the Red Sea reefer overflow takes a while to tube silently, I have a 350 myself. I just shut off the power heads and MP40s when I feed.

 

[WhatCouldGoWrong71]

I took my bubble trap out as it was just catching the detritus bypassing my reefmat from the water entering the emergency drain.

I’ll try adding some baffles back in. I had some issues with my DC RSK300 skimmer and Redsea advised removing some baffles to reduce cavitation. Now my issue with the skimmer is resolve I’ll try adding one back to observe the impact on the overflow level.

I’m wondering if adding a non return valve to my plumbing would help to prevent back siphoning and reduce the required fill volume of the overflow after turning the pump back on.

In my Reefer (250), which uses a 500, I run the e drain into the rollermat’s water chamber. You should be able to zoom and see it here, it was also easier to pull the old sump and replace it with a 20L. Below that is a 1200 that is in my Max S500 that I did the same thing. Works great and takes up much less space then the union hack using the other side of the intake.

 

[BaliReefBox]

if i turn on feed mode/pump off every time its goes down the emergency when it comes back on..i normally dont worry about it as it sorts it self out in 5 minutes or so. If it annoys you and you have a dc pump when you end feed mode or prior to setting it on reduce the pump output from normal to 1/3 less this will allow the overflow to balance it self out. I have my pump on 13/20 and when i turn it off or select feed i reduce it to 9 then when i walk past next back to 13

 

[TastyScrants]

Can you leave the return pump on while feeding and simply shut off the circulation pumps/power heads? Or are you on a closed loop or something that has your return pump super powerful? I agree the Red Sea reefer overflow takes a while to tube silently, I have a 350 myself. I just shut off the power heads and MP40s when I feed.

Then food just goes down to my filter mat and is wasted.