Reef Brite halide system users.

Discussion in 'Aquarium Lighting By Dana Riddle' started by A. grandis, Nov 17, 2017.

  1. justingraham

    justingraham Well-Known Member R2R Supporter R2R Excellence Award Build Thread Contributor NJRC Member Partner Member 2018

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    10k and that’s an old pic didn’t even realize there was fish in the system then haha here is the newest FD3BC7EE-070D-414A-87D6-0050A4986F4B.jpeg 2CA1AA63-0BB3-449A-A1E9-4487E2723B52.jpeg
     

  2. Ztrain

    Ztrain Well-Known Member

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    What color temp on the twin-arc? I'm running the 175 10k/20k and trying to decide what I like the most. 10k for growth and 20k for color. I really don't like the 10k halide by itself. Way too much yellow and green. However when I turn on the XHO it becomes about a perfect color as I can see. Great color on all the fish and everything and the sand looks white again. Switch the Halide to 20k and it looks like a icy white under water look by itself. But when I turn the XHOs on it looks way too blue for me. Then the XHOs by themselves to finish out the evening are awesome.

    I'm having some problems with the bulbs flickering constantly. I thought it was just my first bulb on the 20k but it is doing it on both colors with my 2nd bulb. I'm wondering if there maybe a problem with my ballast or if I just need to let the things burn in a while.
     
  3. A. grandis

    A. grandis Well-Known Member

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    I've been studying more about all the aspects of metal halide each day and wondering about the ultimate performance of the Reef Brite system as a whole. The compatibility of the ballast with other bulbs besides their Twin Arc could be a negative aspect when using such system. I'm not sure this system is indeed so great after all.
    Each metal halide bulb is design for a specific type of ballast.
    If the micro processor reads the bulbs it should adjust it's input current and input power, right?

    It is hard for me to understand how this microprocessor can 'read' the bulbs and still run the Radium at 2.1 amp / 255W.

    Quote:
    "Model Input Voltage Input Current Input Power Power Factor
    175 Watts 100-150 & 240 VAC 1.5 Amps 178.5 Watts >0.98
    250 Watts 2.1 Amps 255 Watts
    400 Watts 3.4 Amps 408 Watts"

    FROM:
    http://www.reefbrite.com/product/reef-brite-reef-tech/

    Would be great if Reef Brite would answer the questions published here.
    They could be on vacation for the holidays.
    I'll probably end up returning the system after all.
    Grandis.
     
  4. A. grandis

    A. grandis Well-Known Member

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    Thanks for your report! One more reason for me to return my order.
    I believe this is the best decision.
    I'm glad I opened this thread. This doesn't mean that it wouldn't work for other people, it's just my personal belief.
    Grandis.
     
  5. Ztrain

    Ztrain Well-Known Member

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    I'm keeping mine. I'm going to guess the flickering is because it is a brand new lamp. The flickering was getting a bit better over time. I'm guessing it will with this new bulb I am figuring on running it for a week and see what happens. I'm still trying to decide on spectrum and at the moment leaning towards a lower K bulb with the XHO's being perfect. So don't need to run the Radium. Also the Radium supposedly requires a ballast that isn't made anymore so I'd have to get one used. Going to pass on that when I can get a Hamilton or Reefbrite 20k and have it work any ballast. If I have to had a radium I could probably get a Luxcore adaptor cable made. But then your overdriving it blah blah. Just seems like a PIA worth of tinkering rather then the set it up and have amazing looking light which is what I have now for cheap. Minus flickering of course. Still not the feints of desire to hook back up the Radion or Kessil.

    I found a write up of different types of magnetic and electronic methods of ballast. It's shocking to know how many different designs there are out there for these things. Either way the fixture and XHOs are worth it so if I have a defective ballast I'm sure they'll replace it probably. But I'm not 100% sure it even is defective tbh.
     
  6. A. grandis

    A. grandis Well-Known Member

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    I wish you the very best, my friend. Hopefully this won't be a huge issue and the ballast is fine. Try to unscrew the bulb all the way and screw it again slowly. Some times the socket isn't 100% perfect touching and screwing again can help the contacts.
    Well, Since the beginning I already stated that would be "too good to be truth" and in my case it won't work as I would like to.

    Besides, the XHOs aren't felling my wishes anyway and to say they are just like VHOs is a bit too much for my taste. I respect Mr. Tullio Del Aquila very much and love hearing him at MACNA, but there are things to consider when purchasing a fixture/ballasts and bulbs more than the "blues" IMHO. I prefer my T5s million times than any LED as you guys already know. Color of diodes won't provide the specific properties of those VHOs. No ways. Even T5s are better, I would say. That said it depends on the motivation and what we are looking for.
    Well, everyone will still choose what they want and we are all different in our opinions. This is just a hobby.
    The halides are still halides and will do their jobs. I just think that I could invest more on a Cebu or Spectra for the ultimate halide experience. T5s and halides is the way to go for me. This is still a good thread!
    Good luck!!
    Please make sure you guys have this space open for your discussions about the Reef Brite as this thread wasn't opened for my own intents, but to help us all discuss and publish experiences with the system.
    I thank Mr. Tullio Del Aquila or Reef Brite for participating and hope Reef Brite continues helping everyone here.
    Aloha,
    Grandis.
     
  7. lancesmith1

    lancesmith1 Active Member

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    Hi - following up on the flickering issue. has it stopped, gotten better? just curious... I started my new hybrid up yesterday and it was flickering some, so i got a little concerned. But today it is not flickering at all. I think it must have been the new bulb.
     
  8. Ztrain

    Ztrain Well-Known Member

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    It's barley doing it now and only every now and then. I'm guessing it'll be gone in a week. One bulb is done and I'm burning in my backup bulb now. When it finishes flickering I'll swap it back to the first bulb. It seems to be a burn in period when their new.
     
  9. lancesmith1

    lancesmith1 Active Member

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    mine has settled in as well running smooth. I am noticing about a 1 degree rise in temp. I replaced a Mitras LX7 and my heater was cycling on and off during the day at 78. With the halide, I am sitting at 79 degrees which is 1 degree over my RK setting. The heat is not so much in the room as much as between the light and the water. The Mitras got so hot you couldn't touch it and the heat came off the top. My corals are responding and the color is much better than it was with the Mitras. Even the soft corals on the bottom are extending better. So far i am happy with my decision to make the change back to halide.
     
  10. lancesmith1

    lancesmith1 Active Member

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    cool. mine has settled in as well.
     
  11. lancesmith1

    lancesmith1 Active Member

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    oh boy. The Giesemann is flickering again today. I am going to try and tighten up in the morning and see if that is the issue. i left it a 1/4 turn loose in order to position the nipple at the top. hopefully thats the issue.
     
  12. Ztrain

    Ztrain Well-Known Member

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    You using a Giesemann bulb? What ballast are you using?
     
  13. wattson

    wattson Well-Known Member

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    why would try to keep the nipple of bulb in position,is there a certain position the bulb should be in while is under power
     
  14. lancesmith1

    lancesmith1 Active Member

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    the reefbrite electronic ballast

    i have always understood it that the nipple on the MH bulb should be positioned in the "up" position.
     
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  15. sghera64

    sghera64 Well-Known Member

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    I've seen illustrations included with the Radium bulbs that agree with that. The illustration indicates that the nipple needs to be positioned somewhere between 10 o'clock and 2 o'clock position. Speculating here: but perhaps it has to do with the the metal/halide salts pooling at the bottom of the quartz bulb. I would imagine the salts might not completely exit the nipple up re-ignition and either color of the light could be different, or worse. Perhaps the heating of these salts upon re-ignition could put pressure on the inside of the nipple and cause it to break. Just letting my engineering imagination run a little.
     
  16. lancesmith1

    lancesmith1 Active Member

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    it has to do with the the metal/halide salts pooling at the bottom of the quartz bulb

    This is it. I interpret as the bottom of a gas tank. You wouldn't want a spot at the bottom of the bulb where the salts collected and didn't produce energy that didn't get used.
     
  17. A. grandis

    A. grandis Well-Known Member

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    Many times we just need to make sure the nipple is situated above the mid-plane of the bulb, meaning above the middle. That should do the trick. Or remount the socket.

    Grandis.
     
  18. wattson

    wattson Well-Known Member

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    what happens to the bulb if you run the bulb with nipple pointed downward for a few days?
    do you ruin the bulb doing so ?
     
  19. A. grandis

    A. grandis Well-Known Member

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    No. But to get the right spectrum you need to make sure the nipple is to the upper part, preferably facing the ceiling.
    I remember when that was first pointed out back in the day and everyone though it was a joke.
    Grandis.
     
  20. Gwitness

    Gwitness Well-Known Member

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    Just curious.....

    I run 3 of the 15inch 250 watt units with 14k Phoenix bulbs and LOVE them so far!!! My sps seem happy and are colored up but I’m just curious if this is enough to keep my sps colored up and growing!!??

    My 210 is 6 feet long, 2 feet wide and 29 inches tall and I’m just curious if these lights will give enough par to grow sps from middle of my tank and up? Just worried because of the height of the tank
     
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