OP
OP
The admin buttons (reload, reboot etc) were broken due to some code changes . I have fixed them today afternoon https://github.com/reef-pi/reef-pi/pull/243
Setting changes will require a reload , that’s by design .
reef-pi :: An opensource reef tank controller based on Raspberry Pi.
- Thread starter Ranjib
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Setting changes will require a reload , that’s by design .
OP
OP
If you restart reef-pi by command line ( systemctl restart reef-pi.service) it should fix the problem
Ryan115
Well-Known Member
@Ranjib by any chance are internal pull up/down resistors used on ATO (GPIO17)?
I am wanting to set this up with a floatswitch that I have now.
My circuit is below, I dont think I need anything other than a current limiting resistor with the switch, and then possibly the pull down.
Correct?
Thanks.
I am wanting to set this up with a floatswitch that I have now.
My circuit is below, I dont think I need anything other than a current limiting resistor with the switch, and then possibly the pull down.
Correct?
Thanks.
njtiger aquariums
Well-Known Member
@Ranjib by any chance are internal pull up/down resistors used on ATO (GPIO17)?
I am wanting to set this up with a floatswitch that I have now.
My circuit is below, I dont think I need anything other than a current limiting resistor with the switch, and then possibly the pull down.
Correct?
Thanks.
My understanding of the internal pull up/down is the pins have them. I believe pin 17 have it. I wired my float switches up using just two gpio and no resistors. I just use the internal pull up/down
Ryan115
Well-Known Member
I saw that they have them, but I didn't know whether you had to activate them in code, or whether the activated by default when set to digital read.
So, you didn't need current limiting resistor either? Actually, now that I think about it, that may only be needed when sourcing output from the pin to GND...
njtiger aquariums
Well-Known Member
I had to code mine to turn those options on. I have two floats switch (with I took off my JBJ ATO).
Please note I am not using Reef-Pi so not sure what needs to be done on that system
My program does the following:
Set pin 5 as a out
Set pin 6 to in and pud_down [GPIO.setup(6, GPIO.IN, pull_up_down=GPIO.PUD_DOWN)]
Set pin 5 to high
I have another program (different pins) for my reservoir float set up the same.
The program reads every second to see if pin 6 has input
Now I don't have it running any pumps right now. Just changes icons on my dashboard to alert me the status. Once I get some time and spare funding (saving for a house) I hope to get a 8 channel relay (running 4 now) so I can get a pump on here for the ATO.
Please note I am not using Reef-Pi so not sure what needs to be done on that system
My program does the following:
Set pin 5 as a out
Set pin 6 to in and pud_down [GPIO.setup(6, GPIO.IN, pull_up_down=GPIO.PUD_DOWN)]
Set pin 5 to high
I have another program (different pins) for my reservoir float set up the same.
The program reads every second to see if pin 6 has input
Now I don't have it running any pumps right now. Just changes icons on my dashboard to alert me the status. Once I get some time and spare funding (saving for a house) I hope to get a 8 channel relay (running 4 now) so I can get a pump on here for the ATO.
OP
OP
@Ryan115 reef-pi code does not explicitly sets the pull down/pull up parameters, since it is generic, and not aware of specific use cases, also the underlying library yet to support pull up/down (should not be hard to implement though).
I would always recommend using external pull up/down resistors. In fact I'll recommend adding resistors to almost all external circuits that are connected to Pi.
In your case, I would go with a 220 ohm resistor in between the 3.3 v pin and float switch, and a 10K between GND and float switch (R2) in your schematics. I am not sure if you need the R1/10K resistor.
I would always recommend using external pull up/down resistors. In fact I'll recommend adding resistors to almost all external circuits that are connected to Pi.
In your case, I would go with a 220 ohm resistor in between the 3.3 v pin and float switch, and a 10K between GND and float switch (R2) in your schematics. I am not sure if you need the R1/10K resistor.
OP
OP
Yeah, we have to activate them in code.
Ryan115
Well-Known Member
OP
OP
NiceFixed. Thank you.
Some theory: https://grantwinney.com/using-pullup-and-pulldown-resistors-on-the-raspberry-pi/
OP
OP
Time to share some reef-pi powered tanks 
My biocube 29g,
Fts
My zoa garden, a 3 gallon pico
Macro
And the 3rd tank, 3.7 g pico
My biocube 29g,
Fts
My zoa garden, a 3 gallon pico
Macro
And the 3rd tank, 3.7 g pico
Got my 12v power supply and 12v -> 5v buck converter. I'll be prototyping things this week hopefully.
The big plus of receiving everything is that now I can start designing an enclosure, as I now have measurements of the biggest components to worry about. The power supply itself is quite large.
I'm also beginning to think that a cooling/exhaust fan in the housing would probably be a good idea. It will contain the Pi, the power supply, and the buck converter; all of which will throw off some pretty good heat.
The big plus of receiving everything is that now I can start designing an enclosure, as I now have measurements of the biggest components to worry about. The power supply itself is quite large.
I'm also beginning to think that a cooling/exhaust fan in the housing would probably be a good idea. It will contain the Pi, the power supply, and the buck converter; all of which will throw off some pretty good heat.
Ryan115
Well-Known Member
Ranjib, I am curious...what frequency are you seeing for the PWM on the scope? My DMM was reading ~540Hz (if I remember correctly).
If we need a RC filter, might as well dial it in.
OP
OP
On my way to office now, I'll let you know tonight
OP
OP
you think so? Pi on its own will not generate that much heat. I am running some performance tests against pi zero and pi 3, and reef-pi is holding up pretty good with around 4 channels of pwm, 12 outlets, temperature sensor, all under less than 15% of cpu and 23 mb of memory.
I have to say that writing reef-pi in go is paying off
It's not the Pi really that I'd worry about, it's the 12V power supply and buck converter that I would be concerned with. I assume that any DC power items you're using (5v for the Pi, 12v for the lighting circuit) are external, and thus don't add any heat into the system. Mine will be fully enclosed. There will only be a single point that plugs into the wall, and that will bring 110v into the system to be converted and distributed as needed.
@Ranjib
Question:
I know it's planned for post 1.0, but when you add support for the Atlas Scientific probes, will we need the Tentacle T3, Tentacle Shield Mini, or Tentacle Shield board? I'm trying to plan my enclosure with future expandability in mind, and want to make sure there is ample space.
Question:
I know it's planned for post 1.0, but when you add support for the Atlas Scientific probes, will we need the Tentacle T3, Tentacle Shield Mini, or Tentacle Shield board? I'm trying to plan my enclosure with future expandability in mind, and want to make sure there is ample space.
OP
OP
Plan for the biggest, Tentacle T3. From our prototypes, I think I would personally prefer two independent ph & salinity. But there is likely to be cases where only 1 (ph) or 3 probes (ph, salinity & orp) required. Having space for the largest will be safer for any changes in long run
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