OP
OP
Yeah couple of pics for the wiring would be helpful
reef-pi :: An opensource reef tank controller based on Raspberry Pi.
- Thread starter Ranjib
- Start date
-
- Tags
- controller raspberry-pi
- Tagged users Ranjib
Twocorns
Well-Known Member
Yeah, so i went through your posts one more time,
and i think the wiring is not right. One end of the floatswitch should go to GPIO pin (sensor) and the other end of the float switch should go to a 3.3 v or 5v power rail. You should connect a 4.7k (or 10k) resistor from the 5v- floatswitch pin to GND.
https://raspberrypi.stackexchange.com/questions/34947/reed-switch-wiring
Right before you posted this I thought to myself, "maybe I'm supposed to use a 3.3v pin instead of GND", made the switch and now it works! LOL. Jesus christ. Do i still need a resistor if I'm using a 3.3v pin?
OP
OP
resistors & capacitors are like ball valves and unions. I would say yes, sometime i understand why we need them, sometime not. But I certainly realized that its good to have them
. Follow one of the circuit i have shared. It will give extra safety (repel currents etc) for the Pi.
Twocorns
Well-Known Member
resistors & capacitors are like ball valves and unions. I would say yes, sometime i understand why we need them, sometime not. But I certainly realized that its good to have them
Thanks again, Ranjib. What a day it's been
OP
OP
Im glad it worked out. These things are fun
, sometime small stuff can sink a lot of time, but then when it works, its rewarding
ReeferMadness88
Community Member
- Joined
- Jan 28, 2018
- Messages
- 33
- Reaction score
- 37
dang that looks awesome! I’d love to put a screen on my case, what one did you go with? I have the same wave makers they are great!
Thanks! Its the standard pi screen in the standard case.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B06X...X236_SY340_QL65&keywords=pi+touchscreen&psc=1
What i bought my pi as.
Mounted to the ply wood by taking the back cover off and using cable ties through the screw mounts. Behind it is a breakout board so all the connections go through there.
And hidden so my ugly wiring job cant be seen lol.
The actual sensor box/outlet is behind my ato reservoir.
The side walls of the cabinet are attached with velcro so can take them off if need to play with wiring. I tried magnets all i ended up doing was coating my hands in super glue lol.
I do love the eflux pumps. Went with the largest model so they are on the lowest setting on my 20g, but will be plenty when i upgrade.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B06X...X236_SY340_QL65&keywords=pi+touchscreen&psc=1
What i bought my pi as.
Mounted to the ply wood by taking the back cover off and using cable ties through the screw mounts. Behind it is a breakout board so all the connections go through there.
And hidden so my ugly wiring job cant be seen lol.
The actual sensor box/outlet is behind my ato reservoir.
The side walls of the cabinet are attached with velcro so can take them off if need to play with wiring. I tried magnets all i ended up doing was coating my hands in super glue lol.
I do love the eflux pumps. Went with the largest model so they are on the lowest setting on my 20g, but will be plenty when i upgrade.
Jean-Pierre Renaud
Community Member
Hello Ranjib,
What do I need to control kessil a80 from raspberry pi3?
I need to boost the pmw voltage to 0-10 v ?
If yes, how please?
What do I need to control kessil a80 from raspberry pi3?
I need to boost the pmw voltage to 0-10 v ?
If yes, how please?
OP
OP
Yes, just follow the lighting build guide, and let us know if you are stuck with anything: https://reef-pi.github.io/build-guides/lighting/
OP
OP
This is very niceOk this looks better lol.
Are you controlling the dosers with reef-pi ?
Jean-Pierre Renaud
Community Member
Great just what I was looking for
Bronc
Valuable Member
I've procrastinated and haven't built any of the electronics yet for my reef-pi, but am planning to now. I want to start with the temperature and power controllers. Can you guys look over my parts list and see if I'm missing anything and let me know what to get as far as wire, etc. I'm a complete noob when it comes to wiring electronics. (Give me a router or switch any day!)
Pi3 - Have it up and running with Reef Pi already
micro sd card - Have it
5v 2.5 amp power adapter - Have it
(8) AC receptacles - Have them
(1) SainSmart 5V 2A 8 Channel Solid State Relay Module - Added my Amazon list
(1) URBEST Inlet Module Plug 5A Fuse Switch Male Power Socket 10A 250V 3 Pin IEC320 C14 - Added my Amazon list
(1) Temperature Sensor - Waterproof (DS18B20) - Added my Amazon list
(1) Elegoo 17 Values 1% Resistor Kit Assortment, 0 Ohm-1M Ohm (Pack of 525) - Added my Amazon list
(1) Lsgoodcare 3.5MM Female Plating Stereo Jack Panel Mount Solder Connector Terminals With Locking Nuts-3.5MM Headphone Audio Jack, Pack of 10 - Added my Amazon list
(1) Uxcell 10-Pieces Black Plastic Housing 3.5mm Audio Jack - Added my Amazon list
(2) MICROCHIP AC163029 JUMPER WIRE KIT, 20PCS - Added my Amazon list
What gauge wire and how much should I buy to wire up the receptacles?
Do I need any bread boards to connect the resistors?
Any thing else I need other than a piece of wood to mount all of this to?
Pi3 - Have it up and running with Reef Pi already
micro sd card - Have it
5v 2.5 amp power adapter - Have it
(8) AC receptacles - Have them
(1) SainSmart 5V 2A 8 Channel Solid State Relay Module - Added my Amazon list
(1) URBEST Inlet Module Plug 5A Fuse Switch Male Power Socket 10A 250V 3 Pin IEC320 C14 - Added my Amazon list
(1) Temperature Sensor - Waterproof (DS18B20) - Added my Amazon list
(1) Elegoo 17 Values 1% Resistor Kit Assortment, 0 Ohm-1M Ohm (Pack of 525) - Added my Amazon list
(1) Lsgoodcare 3.5MM Female Plating Stereo Jack Panel Mount Solder Connector Terminals With Locking Nuts-3.5MM Headphone Audio Jack, Pack of 10 - Added my Amazon list
(1) Uxcell 10-Pieces Black Plastic Housing 3.5mm Audio Jack - Added my Amazon list
(2) MICROCHIP AC163029 JUMPER WIRE KIT, 20PCS - Added my Amazon list
What gauge wire and how much should I buy to wire up the receptacles?
Do I need any bread boards to connect the resistors?
Any thing else I need other than a piece of wood to mount all of this to?
Twocorns
Well-Known Member
I'd change the last item. Amazon has 120 cables for $6 with prime shipping. But I'd get the breadboard/wire combo.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B06X...40_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=breadboard+120pc+wire
I used 14gauge solid wire. Bought 50ft spool and still have some leftover.
Bronc
Valuable Member
I'd change the last item. Amazon has 120 cables for $6 with prime shipping. But I'd get the breadboard/wire combo.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B06X...40_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=breadboard+120pc+wire
I used 14gauge solid wire. Bought 50ft spool and still have some leftover.
Perfect, thanks!! Switched the last item and chose this wire: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NP1IH2E/_encoding=UTF8?coliid=I2N10QFPY7PRA3&colid=57VEC82Y59CQ&psc=1
TMB
Well-Known Member
Just my 2 cents on your parts list. I would replace the SS relay module with something like this one:
https://www.amazon.com/SainSmart-10...pID=51bZoi1iudL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch
Mechanical relays will carry more amperage, and should last longer. I'm not sure that you will ever exceed the 2A rating on the SSR, but these will give a larger safety factor.
Also, as was said by Twocorns 14 AWG is what your standard 15A house circuit is wired with, so that is what I would use.
OP
OP
You are right. Mechanical relays will support higher current. But I have heard solid state relays last longer due to no mechanical parts, but I have not used any of my relays enough to attest that. I have both types, they all work equally well for me, i guess my setup is so small it doesn't matter.Just my 2 cents on your parts list. I would replace the SS relay module with something like this one:
https://www.amazon.com/SainSmart-10...pID=51bZoi1iudL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch
Mechanical relays will carry more amperage, and should last longer. I'm not sure that you will ever exceed the 2A rating on the SSR, but these will give a larger safety factor.
Also, as was said by Twocorns 14 AWG is what your standard 15A house circuit is wired with, so that is what I would use.
One thing for sure the solid state relays dont make any noise, while the mechanical ones do, and you can hear click cluck as the temperature controller kicks in
TMB
Well-Known Member
You are right. Mechanical relays will support higher current. But I have heard solid state relays last longer due to no mechanical parts, but I have not used any of my relays enough to attest that. I have both types, they all work equally well for me, i guess my setup is so small it doesn't matter.
One thing for sure the solid state relays dont make any noise, while the mechanical ones do, and you can hear click cluck as the temperature controller kicks in
You are probably right about lasting longer under smaller loads and the fact that there are no moving parts. I think my thought was more about possibly being near the load limit shortening the life of the SSR.
Something important to consider is the size of the tank, and the wattage of the heater (or lights) you plan on using. My tank for example has 2x 350 watt heaters which are 3A each. Those would be a problem for 2A relays.
Either one will most likely work for most people, but if you have a larger tank I would go with mechanical relays.
OP
OP
Looks good to me. 14AWG minimum for 10A current load.
Unfortunately I dont have a very good recommendation for the housing of power controller I am using modified triplite power bar and another wooden housing. I am planning to use an ABS junction box next. But I think we need to do a better job in this specific side (power controller housing).
I'll recommed considering a fuse (say 10a or 15a ) depending upon your workload.
If you are comfortable with soldering, use a small perf boatd or perma proto board for the temperature circuit (i.e use the perma proto board or perf board to solder male header pin and resistors, and then connect pi & audio jack to perf/perma proto board using jumper wires). If you are not comfortable with soldering, use a small bread board.
OP
OP
You are absolutely right.
Here in r2r , we have lots of people with larger tanks (180G+), so its likely they have heater/chillers that draws higher than 2A current
Similar threads
