reef-pi :: An opensource reef tank controller based on Raspberry Pi.

so finally my PCB's arrived (not from JLC...). Will test them tomorrow :) Oven is upgraded and working, solder paste dispenser is working but needs tuning :D
Finally got PCBs from PCBWAY.
JLC... claimed to have shipped PCB's with stencil but have no proof and stencil package couldn't have included PCB's as they claim. Trying to get my money back from JLC.... but they refuse :mad:

PCBWAY hat more questions (correctly), but delivered as promised. Next step to a reef :cool:
Glad to hear you are slowly making progress in sourcing these pcbs :-)
 
Sorry Ranjib not working.

Screenshot from 2018-09-18 11-21-29.png


Screenshot from 2018-09-18 11-09-58.png


Screenshot from 2018-09-18 11-09-25.png


Should i make ssh file for root?
 
Do not understand one RPI is working and the second one can not connect? one IP 192.168.1.13 working and second is 192.168.1.14 is not connect

Screenshot from 2018-09-18 12-20-07.png
 
Do not understand one RPI is working and the second one can not connect? one IP 192.168.1.13 working and second is 192.168.1.14 is not connect

Screenshot from 2018-09-18 12-20-07.png
So you have two reef-pi controllers?
 
Anything that emits digital output (1/0) will work, including this one (you can see the digital read code in arduino example). I dont know if its appropriate to use in saltwater environment though. But from reef-pi's perspective, this is kosher

They claim because it never comes in contact with the liquid, it is suitable for use in corrosive acids etc. I'm going to give it a bash.
 
Man Wykat, you're not having much luck with these components :/

Glad they finally arrived though, keen to hear how you go with testing!
The PCB's look very good and I tried the paste dispenser/reflow oven today. Short summary, my first trial with positioning the PCA9685 with 2 corners on the previous design and then use a hot air gun with solder paste worked better. The solder paste/reflow has less control over the final positioning of the PCA9685.

The first trial showed a lot (approx 25%) short cuts. I was able to remove these with desoldering braid (trick: When it doesn't remove the short cut immediately, solder pins with solder iron to shortcut more rigid, then remove it with desoldering braid again). This board is ok now, ready to install the remaining components :)

The second trial I reduced the amount of solder paste from the dispenser by 25%, but short cuts remained. So far I couldn't remove 1 short cut from this PCBA, need to make some detailed photo's to understand the reason.

I already knew one problem on the PWM module, the distance of the 2.5mm connectors are too close for the male plugs. It's basically not a big issue as the outer connection are all connected to ground (so you can use them without plastic housing), may need to think about this. This was the reason asking for the required current for the 7810 component earlier.
 
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The PCB's look very good and I tried the paste dispenser/reflow oven today. Short summary, my first trial with positioning the PCA9685 with 2 corners on the previous design and then use a hot air gun with solder paste worked better. The solder paste/reflow has less control over the final positioning of the PCA9685.

The first trial showed a lot (approx 25%) short cuts. I was able to remove these with desoldering braid (trick: When it doesn't remove the short cut immediately, solder pins with solder iron to shortcut more rigid, then remove it with desoldering braid again). This board is ok now, ready to install the remaining components :)

The second trial I reduced the amount of solder paste from the dispenser by 25%, but short cuts remained. So far I couldn't remove 1 short cut from this PCBA, need to make some detailed photo's to understand the reason.

I already knew one problem on the PWM module, the distance of the 2.5mm connectors are too close for the male plugs. It's basically not a big issue as the outer connection are all connected to ground (so you can use them without plastic housing), may need to think about this. This was the reason asking for the required current for the 7810 component earlier.

I've never had success with solder paste unless I use a stencil. For me it is much more reliable that way. I find that to much paste is always applied by the dispenser. For small batches, I usually prefer to just hand solder.

I look forward to seeing some completed circuits. Do you have the designs on github or somewhere else?
 
https://github.com/vandegraaf/Reef-PI_PCBs

Do note, the PWM files are OLD! The HAT files are ok, although I haven't tested the lastest PCB design, but it's just cosmetics (stronger voltage connections).

I can't use hand solder myself due to some disease but as mentioned earlier most people will be able to use this method without problems. Will keep you updated and if you want I can upload the latest PWM files. But as said I still have to complete a PCBA to test
 
Hi Ranjib there is a bigger size

Screenshot from 2018-09-19 15-02-49.png
You are directly starting reef-pi, stop it by Ctl+C and start it with
Code:
systemctl start reef-pi.service
 
@Ranjib I think I found a bug.

so I added my new ULN2803A board today. it was super easy to solder the pins on and then I just ran connectors from them to another new toy board I got today too. It is a GPIO expansion to give me solderless access to the pins. (yea Im lazy and scared to mess up what I have) Anyways, once I got it all connected and buttoned up and booted up. I added these 8 new "connectors" in the config page. I am labelingg them 2-1, 2-2, 2-3 etc. each time I hit add, it saves them as 2-1 and then shows in use. a refresh of the page and going back in solves this. But also they are not in numerical order as I entered them either here.

AMZ error.JPG
 
@Ranjib I think I found a bug.

so I added my new ULN2803A board today. it was super easy to solder the pins on and then I just ran connectors from them to another new toy board I got today too. It is a GPIO expansion to give me solderless access to the pins. (yea Im lazy and scared to mess up what I have) Anyways, once I got it all connected and buttoned up and booted up. I added these 8 new "connectors" in the config page. I am labelingg them 2-1, 2-2, 2-3 etc. each time I hit add, it saves them as 2-1 and then shows in use. a refresh of the page and going back in solves this. But also they are not in numerical order as I entered them either here.

AMZ error.JPG
Thanks for the details. This is similar to a UI bug that was discovered recently. We have it tracked in Issue 555 and will fix it soon. I'll add a comment to validate the connectors and inlets while we fix this issue.
 

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