reef-pi :: An opensource reef tank controller based on Raspberry Pi.

[LionHeart2017]

Hope that's clear

 

[Ranjib]

Yup, @LionHeart2017 I have just pushed a fix to this. https://github.com/reef-pi/reef-pi/pull/639
This fix will address the bug thats crashing the dashboard. But I think this is not the root cause, and theres another bug thats causing a bad dashboard configuration to be saved in the first place. You can check your current dashboard configuration like this:
- Right click on the dashboard and click on the "inspect"

- Once the developer console appears on the lowe part of the browser, navigate to the network tab in it, and hit refresh, you'll see all the network calls that the browser (chromium in this case) is making to reef-pi , one of them is dashboard (you'll see the calls on the left side of the developer console). If you click on it, you'll see the details of response, we need that exact data, I suspect its malformed,

thank you for helping us through this,

 

[LionHeart2017]

this is what I get ranjib

{"column":1,"row":2,"width":500,"height":100,"grid_details":[[{"type":"equipment","id":"current"}]]}

 

[Ranjib]

this is what I get ranjib

{"column":1,"row":2,"width":500,"height":100,"grid_details":[[{"type":"equipment","id":"current"}]]}

Thank you. We are able to reproduce it, I think. One last check, your issue is persistent? i.e. your dashboard does not fix even if you refresh your browser?

 

[LionHeart2017]

Thank you. We are able to reproduce it, I think. One last check, your issue is persistent? i.e. your dashboard does not fix even if you refresh your browser?

No, not fixed yet, I've unchecked dashboard and reloaded reef-pi but still the same
Also there is an error which looks related, here's a pic

 

[Brad Cox]

I used reef-pi during last Christmas as well. Now I have one installed in each room for temperature sensing and controlling all the equipment. The one in hallroom also uses timer to turn on/off TV/Xfinity that my son uses to watch cartoon , I find it easier to let reef-pi switch off the TV instead of us, that way he is not so angry on us LOL

Ha very good idea!

The software is so stable.

 

[LionHeart2017]

A few little things I notice on mobile, the burger bar menu changes position upon choosing configuration as the first 2 pics, also the text isn't centred on the switch in off position, and turning it on and off triggers Google at bottom of screen on last pic, minor things and maybe me and some ocd[emoji13]

 

[Michael Lane]

A few little things I notice on mobile, the burger bar menu changes position upon choosing configuration as the first 2 pics, also the text isn't centred on the switch in off position, and turning it on and off triggers Google at bottom of screen on last pic, minor things and maybe me and some ocd[emoji13]

@LionHeart2017 I have a fix for on/off toggle not centering the status.
I haven't been able to reproduce the hamburger issue - which phone/browser are you using? [Edit - I can see the wrapping is due to the length of the name.]
What is that Google bar on the bottom of the screen?

 

[Ranjib]

No, not fixed yet, I've unchecked dashboard and reloaded reef-pi but still the same
Also there is an error which looks related, here's a pic

I have fixed the bug and updated the release, if you can reinstall reef-pi it should be fixed now: https://github.com/reef-pi/reef-pi/releases/tag/2.0.0-rc3

 

[LionHeart2017]

@LionHeart2017 I have a fix for on/off toggle not centering the status.
I haven't been able to reproduce the hamburger issue - which phone/browser are you using? [Edit - I can see the wrapping is due to the length of the name.]
What is that Google bar on the bottom of the screen?

I'm Samsung s9, chrome, it's a search from Google, if I hold my finger on text on screen it will let me pull up a half page of related things to the word, it seems to trigger it when you go from on to off.

@Ranjb I've updated reef-pi but still no dashboard working, same error, reloaded reef-pi, rebooted pi, still persist

 

[LionHeart2017]

Now found this in log

 

[Nicolas Sabrun]

If I remember correctly VCC/GND originate from the PB4, the daisy chain is the first PB4 channel 1 to the head unit, then ports 2->1->2-> etc. Then one of the modules had to be last, can't remember if it was Temp or Salinity. Can't remember if VCC was 5v or 3.3V. But I'm pretty sure the I2C would work whether the SDA/SCL lines were either.

I couldn't find my drive or at least locate the project on one of them. But I was able to find an old box with RKL gear in it. It won't take too much effort to recreate the library, but I can't promise on time since I'm simply bogged down with personal projects at the moment.

You can have my old head unit when I'm done testing if you want it.

I have an RKE or had. It doesn't matter the order for the module except you need one PB4 at the start then everything is daisy chained. One wire from PB4 goes to head unit. The second one goes to the next module and so on. All the connections are 6 wires and I got no clue witch one is what. I am just hoping that I could get pi to control all my modules. Like recreating the head unit with a pi. I guess it is going to be a long project since I don't have any programming knowledge.

 

[Ranjib]

I'm Samsung s9, chrome, it's a search from Google, if I hold my finger on text on screen it will let me pull up a half page of related things to the word, it seems to trigger it when you go from on to off.

@Ranjb I've updated reef-pi but still no dashboard working, same error, reloaded reef-pi, rebooted pi, still persist

You dont have to reboot it. Try doing a hard refresh of your browser,

 

[Ranjib]

Now found this in log

Hmm.. i;ll need some time to get to the bottom of this, i need Pi to reproduce this, since its not happening on my end, I'll get back to this in couple of days, after Im back in US. Meanwhile if this issue does not resolve, then try this, its bit complicated but its basically command line way of fixing things using the API, bypassing the UI. From your past answer, it looks like you have a wrong dashboard configuration where you have one row and two columns are specified, but details of only a single cell is present, one is missing, which is what causing the issue, the command below will reset dashboard configuration to a single row single column, and then you can get back to working dashboard.
first create a good dashboard configuration, your current one is this:

{
  "column":1,
  "row":2,
  "width":500,
  "height":100,
  "grid_details":[
     [{"type":"equipment","id":"current"}]
   ]
}

Notice details of one cell is missing, so create a good configuration like this and save it as dashboard.json , we'll just change the row to 1 to make it valid

{
  "column":1,
  "row":1,
  "width":500,
  "height":100,
  "grid_details":[
     [{"type":"equipment","id":"current"}]
   ]
}

Now,, use command line to update the configuation. The first command does the sign in and saves cookie, which is then used in the second command to reset the dashboard config.

curl -X POST -d '{"password":"reef-pi", "user":"reef-pi"}' -c cookie.txt   http://<reef-pi IP>/auth/signin
curl -b  cookie.txt   -X POST -d @dashboard.json http://<reef-pi IP>/api/dashboard

 

[MaccaPopEye]

I am curious , Xbox and even track power supply has enclosed modules with plastic housing. So, is there any specific detail that we should look for ? Like wattage ? And also it must involve the type of circuit as well. Traco psu can be pretty high wattage , and still enclosed in plastic housing . They power rockets .

This is a very important topic as I bet lots of folks will need this info , and I really want to keep safety as one of the most important aspect of this project. If you have any specific guidance here , I’ll gladly put it in the official docs as well. We have a specific section around safety (fire hazard and electrical shocks )

Metal enclosures like this are almost always for EMI / radiated emissions. Everything becomes a radio transmitter, so these are the attenuation mechanisms.

Most plastics designed for electronics should be rated as UL 94V0, which is filled with enough flame retardant materials to not keep a flame for more than 10 seconds.

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/UL_94

I agree - don’t mess with high power lightly. There are a number of factors to consider (clearance, current, wire sizing, fusing, etc).

This is something that concerns me as well but I also haven't been able to find an easy answer.

As far as I am aware Australia has some pretty strict standards when it comes to mains 240V power but it looks like anything sold in Aus might have to be individually tested before it can get approved and there isn't a clear standard for what plastics are ok.

I pulled apart a number of Aus certified power boards and plastic power bricks and none of them had any fire retardant material inside so anything they have must be built into the plastic. But I have also seen a number of Aus power boards completely melted due to being overloaded so it looks like they either weren't very fire retardant or the standard is pretty low.

I have found out that some PLA 3D printing filaments are actually quite flame retardant and won't hold a flame at all but some others aren't (usually ones with additives). I'll definitely be checking with some scrap later when I have a chance to see how the PLA I used goes when lit on fire.

 

[Ranjib]

This is something that concerns me as well but I also haven't been able to find an easy answer.

As far as I am aware Australia has some pretty strict standards when it comes to mains 240V power but it looks like anything sold in Aus might have to be individually tested before it can get approved and there isn't a clear standard for what plastics are ok.

I pulled apart a number of Aus certified power boards and plastic power bricks and none of them had any fire retardant material inside so anything they have must be built into the plastic. But I have also seen a number of Aus power boards completely melted due to being overloaded so it looks like they either weren't very fire retardant or the standard is pretty low.

I have found out that some PLA 3D printing filaments are actually quite flame retardant and won't hold a flame at all but some others aren't (usually ones with additives). I'll definitely be checking with some scrap later when I have a chance to see how the PLA I used goes when lit on fire.

I am soaking up all these informations
A quick google search revealed there are few UL-94 rated filament, such as this one: https://www.3dxtech.com/firewire-flame-retardant-abs-filament-1kg/

 

[Des Westcott]

I am curious , Xbox and even track power supply has enclosed modules with plastic housing. So, is there any specific detail that we should look for ? Like wattage ? And also it must involve the type of circuit as well. Traco psu can be pretty high wattage , and still enclosed in plastic housing . They power rockets .

This is a very important topic as I bet lots of folks will need this info , and I really want to keep safety as one of the most important aspect of this project. If you have any specific guidance here , I’ll gladly put it in the official docs as well. We have a specific section around safety (fire hazard and electrical shocks )

The type of plastic involved plays a big part. Certain plastics will just melt and never burn. Others will run away with just a spark.

Sorry for jumping in here so late.

 

[LionHeart2017]

Hi ranjib, thanks for that but it's above what I'm capable of lol, do I have to make a file and put it somewhere else? if it's going to be fixed at some point in an updated version,
don't worry about me as I can still access equipment and such stuff

 

[Ranjib]

Hi ranjib, thanks for that but it's above what I'm capable of lol, do I have to make a file and put it somewhere else? if it's going to be fixed at some point in an updated version,
don't worry about me as I can still access equipment and such stuff

No worries. Yeah, you have to create a file in rasberry pi and then use those commands..
anyway.. i dont know why the new error is happening (js invariant stuff ...), we'll have to investigate it.

 

[PaulJ2303]

Hi Ranjib,
I've been lurking on this thread for a week or so and I'm definitely going to get a raspberry pi and use reef pi to control my new tank.
i haven't read all 369 pages though ... do i need to, or is there a resource somewhere that i can catch up ?
also i'm probably going to get the "pi 3b+" does reef pi work on this latest version ?
and one last thing plz, do i need to get the touch screen or can i log in remotely over wifi ?

thanks for all you effort in this you seem to have got a really good community going here