reef-pi :: An opensource reef tank controller based on Raspberry Pi.

[Ryan115]

So far switching to heater control with reef-pi as a fail safe my fluctuation in temp is +/- .5. (between 78 and 78.5) I have not put my Aqueon online yet so thats using the ehiem bi-metal heater. I can say when I had reef-pi doing the control, checking every minute, my temp was always within .1 degree of my target. I kind of like that stability and would much rather have reef-pi do the control. I may however change my mind once the solid state Aqueon is my primary heater.

In the meantime I am re designing my power strip. I am thinking to do a mix of solid state and mechanical relays. For the heater relay I think instead of going with a Chinese ebay-special high current solid state relay I am going to go with this Panasonic zero cross 15 amp relay
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/aqa211vl/panasonic

- My ATO uses a toms aqualifter pump which does not like SSR's so it will be a mechanical relay
- Return I want to run normally closed so that will be a mechanical relay
- Wavemakers turn on and off every hour so I will use solid state
- Skimmer, scrubber, and sump light rarley switch so I could use mechanical or SS.

So I am looking at probably doing 4 solid state relays and 4 mechanical.

I recently went the other way with my heater. I was using an Aqueon, but it failed on me (of course I was out of town). Thanks to reef-pi alert, I was able to call and talk my wife through it.
I was pretty impressed with the Eheim Jager results in the BRS reviews. In south Mississippi heaters arent needed for most of the year, so I have been sticking with reef-pi as main control on a mechanical relay.

As a slightly off topic...for ATO I am also using an aqualifter, but I am planning to switch over to this little guy https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0744FWNFR/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 running straight off of a motor controller on the pi.

 

[Des Westcott]

With some recent updates, I think this may be a low estimate. I believe as of 2.3 we have the ability to use the PCA9685 pins as output pins, though I dont know if we can have multiple PCA9685 devices yet. With those changes, you can control hundreds of outlets and lights while leaving your GPIO pins for inputs.
So 1 pi can do an amazing amount of control.

Really? PCA9685 pins as outputs? That's amazing! Is it really true?

 

[Ranjib]

Really? PCA9685 pins as outputs? That's amazing! Is it really true?

Yes. but not in 2.3, its in 3.0 development branch. This is due to the recent work we did on HAL (hardware abstraction layer), which will allow us to not only add multiple pca9685 devices, but also use them as outlets. Each pca9685 can be used to get 16 outlets.

 

[Bigtrout]

@Ranjib
Did I read previously that the ph board is only going to have 2 point calibration at ph 7 and ph 10?
What does that do for anyone in freshwater who is looking at a below 7 ph?
If the logic of a 3 point calibration is too hard to implement, would it be possible to allow a choice in 2 point calibration one being ph7 and ph10 and the other choice being ph4 and ph7?
Im wondering about the accuracy in acidic conditions if the probe is calibrated for alkaline ph.

 

[AquaRaider44]

Need help I built the reef pi basic module with 12v to 5v and the buck converter is making noise and pi is not staying on and randomly shuts off could this be from loose jumper cables?

 

[Bigtrout]

What buck convertor is that and what version of raspberry pi are you running, is that a pi 3 b+?

Did you start a reef pi build thread? You should so that we can help you there instead of the main thread.

 

[AquaRaider44]

The pi runs fine on normal power so I think it's the loose connection. QEBIDUL LM2596S DC-DC Buck Converter DIY 4-40V to 1.25-37V Step-down Regulator Power Module Volt Stabilizer with LED Voltmeter Display

 

[Bigtrout]

The pi runs fine on normal power so I think it's the loose connection. QEBIDUL LM2596S DC-DC Buck Converter DIY 4-40V to 1.25-37V Step-down Regulator Power Module Volt Stabilizer with LED Voltmeter Display

Id check all your connections and test voltage on the 5v and ground pins of the hat with a decent voltmeter. Just because the readout on the buck convertor says 5.1 volts doesnt necessarily mean its accurate.

 

[AquaRaider44]

Id check all your connections and test voltage on the 5v and ground pins of the hat with a decent voltmeter. Just because the readout on the buck convertor says 5.1 volts doesnt necessarily mean its accurate.

It shows 5.2 output and 17.7 in. Not shutting off now with soldered wires but making autable noise

 

[Bigtrout]

Is the noise from the pi or the buck convertor...if its from the convertor, id try another one.

 

[AquaRaider44]

Is the noise from the pi or the buck convertor...if its from the convertor, id try another one.

Its the converter for sure let me break out the other one.

 

[AquaRaider44]

Is the noise from the pi or the buck convertor...if its from the convertor, id try another one.

The other is making noise too... I don't think it's the pi

 

[AquaRaider44]

Could both be making noise

 

[AquaRaider44]

There is also no noise if I pull the sd card...

 

[AquaRaider44]

Update if the converter is directly hooked to the pi there is no noise. What on the perma erma could cause the noise?

 

[Bigtrout]

I dont think its the pi, i think its the quality of those buck convertors...if they dont use the correct components they make noise

 

[Bigtrout]

Update if the converter is directly hooked to the pi there is no noise. What on the perma erma could cause the noise?

Hmm thats strange

 

[AquaRaider44]

I dont think its the pi, i think its the quality of those buck convertors...if they dont use the correct components they make noise

It's some sort of the circet on the perma pi hat as there is no noise when buck converter hooks up to the pi direct

 

[Bigtrout]

Double check your proto circuit and make sure you dont have any inadvertent tie between the 3.3 and ground rails.

 

[AquaRaider44]

Double check your proto circuit and make sure you dont have any inadvertent tie between the 3.3 and ground rails.

I don't see any.