The actual Pi GPIO's can't handle much current but the DC ports are setup for a max of 5 amps on each port or across them all, you should be well under that. I would bet on it being the power supply, the Pi is very sensitive to under voltage and with an extra load on that cheap power supply (sorry) or as it ages that can be the issue, I've seen it from a few of them. If you don't have one here's a link, if you send me an email or PM so I know who you are I'll send some money to cover it.
Sounds good, let me know how it goes. The main controller and lighting/DC module does required a power supply however you should have gotten a Y cable for the power supply. With that you can plug the power supply into the Y and then you'll have a plug for both pieces. The sensor extension doesn't require a lot of power so that's sent through the Ethernet patch cable from the controller but as the DC equipment module can use lots of current it's not possible to use the Ethernet cable that's why it has it's own DC input plug.
One thing to note on that diagram, it's a straight connection from Robo-Tank to the feeder however if you DIY it you need a NPN mosfet for the GPIO coming from the Pi. Here's a picture of the circuit. The Pi GPIO goes into the Gate (G) of the mosfet with a 10k pulldown resistor attached, a common ground goes to Source (S) of the mosfet and the Drain (D) of the mosfet goes to the feeder as shown in the diagram on my website.So I need to figure out a automatic feeder for when I need to leave things unattended, I know @robsworld78 has a diagram for wiring up the Ehiem but was wondering if anyone else had done something differently. Havent made up my mind yet but would be nice to be able to time shutting the pumps off etc when feeding, just thought I would ask.
Personally, I would also recommend an additional gate resistor of something like 1k, charging the gate might otherwise result in current spikes that the GPIO or the PI don't like.One thing to note on that diagram, it's a straight connection from Robo-Tank to the feeder however if you DIY it you need a NPN mosfet for the GPIO coming from the Pi. Here's a picture of the circuit. The Pi GPIO goes into the Gate (G) of the mosfet with a 10k pulldown resistor attached, a common ground goes to Source (S) of the mosfet and the Drain (D) of the mosfet goes to the feeder as shown in the diagram on my website.
When the manual feed button is press on the Eheim feeder it simply completes a ground path which fires up the circuit in the feeder, that's what this circuit does, when the mosfet is switched from the Pi GPIO a ground is passed to the feeder just like the manual feed button was pressed.
I forgot to mention that, thanks. I do have those resistors except 220 ohm, I use them on all outputs. PWM0 is going to that feeder circuit above. The BSS138 I'm using also has diodes built in for 2k ESD protection.
Either should work according to @robsworld78 , in the post you linked here shows the npn bipolar transistor method (PN2222) and he mentioned to me that a n-channel MOSFET would work as well (2N7000). You simply need to put the right resistor between the I/O and the transistor.@robsworld78 or anyone else, I have 2 NPN's in my circuit junk box, I think either would work but let me know, I have PN2222a or 2n7000 that I could use, let me know if it matters or one would work better than the other, thanks.
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/onsemi-Fairchild/2N7000?qs=FOlmdCx%252BAA2o%2FKZOTk%2F3hg%3D%3D
I think either would work the other issue I need to figure out is how I am going to feed 3.3v, all I have is 5v, here is his board layout - https://www.tindie.com/products/ranthalion/ml-reef-pi-hat-goby/#specs
Yeah the board I have only has 3.3v on the temp probes and I am using all of those, everything else is 5v. I am also wondering if it really matters, could I get away with just feeding 5v, by the time it makes it to the board it will be less than that, would 1v be to much, hard to say. I think I read @Des Westcott feeding 5v to his feeder - https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/diy-auto-feeder-with-reef-pi.701874/ doing a 3.3v regulator just something else to purchase and wire up..maybe i just forgo the reef-pi integration altogether and just use the timer, but woul dbe nice to cut power when its not supposed to be in use and log feedings etc...where is that dang easy button
I would go with the 2n7000, the other is a BJT which is current driven and maybe the Pi doesn't have enough to switch it properly, the 2n7000 mosfet is voltage driven so easier to use.@robsworld78 or anyone else, I have 2 NPN's in my circuit junk box, I think either would work but let me know, I have PN2222a or 2n7000 that I could use, let me know if it matters or one would work better than the other, thanks.
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/onsemi-Fairchild/2N7000?qs=FOlmdCx%252BAA2o%2FKZOTk%2F3hg%3D%3D
I think either would work the other issue I need to figure out is how I am going to feed 3.3v, all I have is 5v, here is his board layout - https://www.tindie.com/products/ranthalion/ml-reef-pi-hat-goby/#specs
Robo-Tank.where is that dang easy button
Yeah I hear ya but I have way to many of the Lane hats and really for what I need it's meets my needs...I always steer folks your way for sure...I assume this would do what I need for the voltage regulator..https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09PRD393H/?coliid=I2J8KSJ89MBFS0&colid=3483ETTLL38EF&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_itI would go with the 2n7000, the other is a BJT which is current driven and maybe the Pi doesn't have enough to switch it properly, the 2n7000 mosfet is voltage driven so easier to use.
For the 3.3v technically you don't need it if your ok with powering the feeder with batteries, that just replaces them which is nice. The other way would be as @Sral mentioned or a 3.3v low dropout (LDO) regulator. And of course as you mentioned you can just use 5v and hope for the best.
Robo-Tank.
Thanks, I appreciate that and I was just playing, couldn't resist.
Hello everybody, I have a problem with interferences. When I turn on led lights witch Chinese power supply, the current regulator as in the figure, I get pH measurement bad and temp sensors also turn offline. Can you suggest me if a different power supply can help me ? I did a bit of research and found @Bigtrout had a similar issue, so I wish he can help me. Thanks !
Looks like you did hit a bug. The DC ports are setup to turn off if no signal is present so I just did a test, when reef-pi is rebooted the pca9685 isn't reset or turned off.
I have the 12v pump with the cable cut and plugged into the green connector. It goes to DC port 1. I have a legit float valve connected in the float valve spot. Sensor is in No contact with the NC jumper.
