reef-pi :: An opensource reef tank controller based on Raspberry Pi.

[Ryan115]

Can you do a hard refresh (shift f5) in your browser? I think though you have updated to 0.4 browser is still using the 0.3 UI, due to cache.
0.4 uses equipments from drop down menu instead of raw PIN numbers as heater cooler

I have tried completely closing and restarting browser and rebooting RPi. This has persisted even through an uninstall with purge and deleting the DB.

 

[AshwinRavi]

in the spirit of new ideas for future versions, how about an option to choose an outlet as wave maker, so when designated in the timer tab, we could pick the frequency, like 1s, 5s, 30s, 1min and 2mins etc from a drop down menu instead of creating several timer schedules. just a thought.

 

[Ranjib]

I have tried completely closing and restarting browser and rebooting RPi. This has persisted even through an uninstall with purge and deleting the DB.

Refresh the browser (On macbook its : Command +Shift + r ) , your issue is not in db or the software, its in the cached old pages of the browser, i think

 

[Ryan115]

Refresh the browser (On macbook its : Command +Shift + r ) , your issue is not in db or the software, its in the cached old pages of the browser, i think

Once again, you are correct. For Chome on Windows it is Ctrl+F5.
Learned something new today...
Thank you.

 

[Ryan115]

Here's a compilation of a few questions I still have...

To clarify pin assignment, if I wanted to have a device controlled by GPIO21 (pin position 40 on the pi) which pin am I calling within reef-pi? Currently I am calling it as 21, is this correct?

Do you have a list of names that match to telemetry output? For example, I have to label the Adafruit feed as "temperature", I couldn't do "sump temp".

Is there anything special that is needed to change from optical to floatswitch for ATO? Also, do you need the full sensor and circuit from DFrobot, or could you use just the generic sensor?

For light control, are we set on just using an NPN circuit to convert from 3.3v PWM to 10V pwm? Did we have to use a low-pass filter?

 

[AshwinRavi]

Here's a compilation of a few questions I still have...

To clarify pin assignment, if I wanted to have a device controlled by GPIO21 (pin position 40 on the pi) which pin am I calling within reef-pi? Currently I am calling it as 21, is this correct?

Do you have a list of names that match to telemetry output? For example, I have to label the Adafruit feed as "temperature", I couldn't do "sump temp".

Is there anything special that is needed to change from optical to floatswitch for ATO? Also, do you need the full sensor and circuit from DFrobot, or could you use just the generic sensor?

For light control, are we set on just using an NPN circuit to convert from 3.3v PWM to 10V pwm? Did we have to use a low-pass filter?

answer to the first part of your question, yes. you should call it as 21, the GPIO number, not the location on pi.

 

[Ranjib]

Here's a compilation of a few questions I still have...

To clarify pin assignment, if I wanted to have a device controlled by GPIO21 (pin position 40 on the pi) which pin am I calling within reef-pi? Currently I am calling it as 21, is this correct?

Do you have a list of names that match to telemetry output? For example, I have to label the Adafruit feed as "temperature", I couldn't do "sump temp".

Is there anything special that is needed to change from optical to floatswitch for ATO? Also, do you need the full sensor and circuit from DFrobot, or could you use just the generic sensor?

For light control, are we set on just using an NPN circuit to convert from 3.3v PWM to 10V pwm? Did we have to use a low-pass filter?

1) yes, always use gpio number i.e. 21
2) adafruit mandated feed names to be small case and without space (single word). Reef/pi currently does not support multiple temp probe. So the feeds used currently are ato, heater , temperature , cooler , heater, channel-1, channel-2 etc
3) float switch should work just fine in place of photo sensor. You need the additional breakout board with photo sensor, it maps the sensor’ 4 pin configuration to 3 pin setup with appropriate resistors and diodes in between. It’s a simple circuit and the schematic available online (yay openhaEdward) , so if you want you can roll your own pretty easily
4) that’s a hard question to answer due to the fact that we are not settled on a fixed lighting . I have use kessil and the npn transistor route is enough for me. Since there is no common or open standard which all lighting manufacturer adhere to, I’m inclined to say that reef-pi will standardize on software /hardware that generates 5v pwm and also document handful of ways to convert that to 10v pwm (using npn transistors ) or 0-10 v analog (using lpf).

Does this answer your questions?

 

[Cary]

1) yes, always use gpio number i.e. 21
2) adafruit mandated feed names to be small case and without space (single word). Reef/pi currently does not support multiple temp probe. So the feeds used currently are ato, heater , temperature , cooler , heater, channel-1, channel-2 etc
3) float switch should work just fine in place of photo sensor. You need the additional breakout board with photo sensor, it maps the sensor’ 4 pin configuration to 3 pin setup with appropriate resistors and diodes in between. It’s a simple circuit and the schematic available online (yay openhaEdward) , so if you want you can roll your own pretty easily
4) that’s a hard question to answer due to the fact that we are not settled on a fixed lighting . I have use kessil and the npn transistor route is enough for me. Since there is no common or open standard which all lighting manufacturer adhere to, I’m inclined to say that reef-pi will standardize on software /hardware that generates 5v pwm and also document handful of ways to convert that to 10v pwm (using npn transistors ) or 0-10 v analog (using lpf).

Does this answer your questions?

Ranjib, you might think about starting an Faq in the documents or the intro page. I think this question might come up again and it would help those, like me that are just getting started.


Brad I think that Maccapopeye's light are like yours..but I am not sure. I will go back in lurk mode again.

 

[AshwinRavi]

Ranjib,
any thoughts on the wave maker section like I mentioned before, just curious to know if that's something that would be simple or very complicated.

 

[Ryan115]

1) yes, always use gpio number i.e. 21
2) adafruit mandated feed names to be small case and without space (single word). Reef/pi currently does not support multiple temp probe. So the feeds used currently are ato, heater , temperature , cooler , heater, channel-1, channel-2 etc
3) float switch should work just fine in place of photo sensor. You need the additional breakout board with photo sensor, it maps the sensor’ 4 pin configuration to 3 pin setup with appropriate resistors and diodes in between. It’s a simple circuit and the schematic available online (yay openhaEdward) , so if you want you can roll your own pretty easily
4) that’s a hard question to answer due to the fact that we are not settled on a fixed lighting . I have use kessil and the npn transistor route is enough for me. Since there is no common or open standard which all lighting manufacturer adhere to, I’m inclined to say that reef-pi will standardize on software /hardware that generates 5v pwm and also document handful of ways to convert that to 10v pwm (using npn transistors ) or 0-10 v analog (using lpf).

Does this answer your questions?

That helps a lot.
On the ATO circuit, what is the pin monitoring for? For a float switch, are you connecting to 3.3v, 5v or gnd?

For light control, I forgot to say for black box control.

 

[AshwinRavi]

That helps a lot.
On the ATO circuit, what is the pin monitoring for? For a float switch, are you connecting to 3.3v, 5v or gnd?

For light control, I forgot to say for black box control.

I haven't done the wiring yet, but I am planning to control my black box on and off daily, with the relay switches on timer.

 

[Cary]

Ryan. I am sorry I noticed I called you Brad.

 

[Brad Cox]

Yes i also have the marsaqua black boxes. But i havent had time to get them fixed yet. Still running mine using the 0-10volt npn.

 

[AshwinRavi]

Yes i also have the marsaqua black boxes. But i havent had time to get them fixed yet. Still running mine using the 0-10volt npn.

I am only using 2 of the 8 channels on my relay as of now, I was planning to use 2 more for two of the black boxes I have. just curious, how does your 0-10V npn work and how do you have it configured if you don't mind me asking.

 

[Ranjib]

Ranjib,
any thoughts on the wave maker section like I mentioned before, just curious to know if that's something that would be simple or very complicated.

I dont think its complicated. We have to decide on the UX/UI for wavemaker. I dont think we need any new electronics for it, backend code is also not very complicated , its just about coming up with a decent UI for it. This work needs to be done for this is very similar to dosing controller.
There are two ways we can go for this,
1) use timer like primitives to turn on/off electrical outlets. That it turn can be used to control multiple power heads and generate different types of wave making presets (pulse mode etc). This will work well with things like hydor coralia powerheads.
2) Use the pwm outputs to generate variable speed outlets. And provide few presets (pulse mode, nutrient exports, night mode etc). This will work good for DC power heads.
To be frank , I dont know which one to aim first. I was thinking of going for the DC based approach first, because the AC outlet based pumps can already be programmed via the timer module (albeit it will be cumbersome)

thoughts ?

 

[Ranjib]

That helps a lot.
On the ATO circuit, what is the pin monitoring for? For a float switch, are you connecting to 3.3v, 5v or gnd?

For light control, I forgot to say for black box control.

3.3 v. The monitoring pin checks for digital input., i.e. high or low state.

 

[AshwinRavi]

I dont think its complicated. We have to decide on the UX/UI for wavemaker. I dont think we need any new electronics for it, backend code is also not very complicated , its just about coming up with a decent UI for it. This work needs to be done for this is very similar to dosing controller.
There are two ways we can go for this,
1) use timer like primitives to turn on/off electrical outlets. That it turn can be used to control multiple power heads and generate different types of wave making presets (pulse mode etc). This will work well with things like hydor coralia powerheads.
2) Use the pwm outputs to generate variable speed outlets. And provide few presets (pulse mode, nutrient exports, night mode etc). This will work good for DC power heads.
To be frank , I dont know which one to aim first. I was thinking of going for the DC based approach first, because the AC outlet based pumps can already be programmed via the timer module (albeit it will be cumbersome)

thoughts ?

man! you are thorough. I would personally choose 1, but let's see what others think too, I have hydor power heads, not DC. thanks for getting back on this...

 

[Cary]

I have hydor and sicce powerheads. I alternate the sides each 1 minute, so they should be really easy to work with. It would be great to have several modes to choose from.

 

[Ranjib]

This thread has become way to tech/text heavy. I am injecting some reef photos to make it visually appealing :-) . Also you all get to see my tanks powered by reef pi :-0)

 

[AshwinRavi]

man! great tank! mine is almost done cycling, so.. someday mine will look good