reef-pi :: An opensource reef tank controller based on Raspberry Pi.

[Ranjib]

For anyone looking for an ATO sensor... https://www.robotshop.com/en/gravity-liquid-level-sensor-fs-ir02.html. Paid $11 shipped.

amazon also has dropped price to 10$

 

[Twocorns]

Will a temp probe calibration/adjustment be added? Tank reads 78 degrees, but when I test it with two different thermometers they each read 76.

 

[Ranjib]

Will a temp probe calibration/adjustment be added? Tank reads 78 degrees, but when I test it with two different thermometers they each read 76.

Currently reef-pi does not ship with any calibration module. Neither the kernel driver for the sensor (ds18b20) provides a convenient way to do this. From our experience we have mostly experienced 0.5 degree precision. It may be due to a bad probe.
I would definitely like to add a configurable (one point, two point or three point) calibration module in reef-pi that can be used across sensors, but this has not been an immediate need yet.

 

[lazybones51]

@Ranjib I've been investigating my "flashing" issue and had a question as i'm not used to working with GO. Could you share which methods are called by the cron, as i'm struggling to figure it out.

When manually setting the PWM values on the RPI I do not suffer with any flickering, I can also adjust the duty cycle up and down without any flickering. What i'd like to understand is how the cron is interacting with the RPI PWM interface, as it feels like PWM0 is being disabled/enabled when ever the cron runs. If I manually disable/enable PWM0 i'm able to replicate the "flash", this happens because my light's power supply doesn't receive a PWM signal so it defaults to 100% output. This is the data sheet for power supply i'm using, https://docs-emea.rs-online.com/webdocs/13ec/0900766b813eccfc.pdf

 

[Ranjib]

@Ranjib I've been investigating my "flashing" issue and had a question as i'm not used to working with GO. Could you share which methods are called by the cron, as i'm struggling to figure it out.

When manually setting the PWM values on the RPI I do not suffer with any flickering, I can also adjust the duty cycle up and down without any flickering. What i'd like to understand is how the cron is interacting with the RPI PWM interface, as it feels like PWM0 is being disabled/enabled when ever the cron runs. If I manually disable/enable PWM0 i'm able to replicate the "flash", this happens because my light's power supply doesn't receive a PWM signal so it defaults to 100% output. This is the data sheet for power supply i'm using, https://docs-emea.rs-online.com/webdocs/13ec/0900766b813eccfc.pdf

I'll test it out this week,
here is the relevant code:
https://github.com/reef-pi/reef-pi/blob/master/controller/utils/pwm_rpi.go#L36
https://github.com/reef-pi/reef-pi/blob/master/controller/connectors/jack.go#L124

 

[Gary G]

Hey Ranjib,
I was thinking of doing a 8 outlet relay vs a 4 will there be a way I can use couple of them on powerheads and set them like on a timer as well ans set it up to pulse?

 

[Ranjib]

Hey Ranjib,
I was thinking of doing a 8 outlet relay vs a 4 will there be a way I can use couple of them on powerheads and set them like on a timer as well ans set it up to pulse?

Yeah, you can use timers to alternate on/off powerheads, I don't see any issues with that. what power head you are using? I am not worried from reef-pi side (and even relay).
I dont know how this impacts the power head, I would assume this will decrease their life span (due frequent on/off inducing more wear and tear)

I am playing with jebao power head and DC pwm based wavemaker, it is in back burner right now due to the ongoing ph probe and multiple ATO support work

 

[Gareth elliott]

Besides life of the powerhead if the tank is in a place you dont want to hear noise, the on and off might cause cavitation, causing a pop of air each time they turn on.

 

[Gary G]

See I did not think of that the extra wear and tear. I was planning on getting two of these. https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/tunze-turbelle-nanostream-6055-controllable.html
the reason I asked was tee see if I could program a wave pattern but I guess I could use the controller.

 

[Ranjib]

@Gary G since you had queried for UI/UX stuff,
I would really love to get a graphic design (kinda logo) for reef-pi that I can use to make pins using this technique:

I would like to make a bunch of pins that i can give away during maker faire, and I could really use some help with the graphics (design, colors etc). It will be nice to have a consistent palette across reef-pi website, software and all other media (there will be some printed brochure as well). For pins in particular, i need something with bright color/contrast and not too fine designs.
thanks in advance :-)

 

[Gary G]

For sure man leave me a message in slack of what you have in mind. names, colors, What your take on the logo should be. I will be more than glad to do something.

 

[Gary G]

I was just sitting here looking at the fritzing software.

 

[Ranjib]

In process of making a new power controller, with pi sitting outside the housing, and the ac part of the build (receptacles and relay) is in separate housing with hdmi based connector

 

[Gary G]

nice IS the Hdmi out going to be used to connect it to the pie?

 

[Ranjib]

nice IS the Hdmi out going to be used to connect it to the pie?

That’s what I intend to do

 

[Bronc]

Definitely show us the finished product!

 

[Gareth elliott]

So rebuilding my reef-pi controller.

What i didnt like with previous build.
-i created modules like apex. temperature/ato in this box. Raspberry pi and display in this box. It added to my wiring rather than decreased. After looking at the GHL design i have rethought this approach.
- touch screen was in a static location created less usefulness.
-the look, i see all these great controller setups, i didnt have that lol.

To that end ordered.
-An aluminum media center housing. Reef-pi all sensors, etc go in here.
-Ordered a second raspberry pi. And Phone batter backup. This attaches to display. Now when not charging this is mobile, connects to reef-pi via web server only.
-with the aluminum housing i can use rj45’s and bnc for every connection. Easier to work with cutouts than the full plastic of a project box.
- larger power supply can fit in the box. Will require a fan now but thats not really an expense. But will be able to power all probes from one supply.(with proper voltage regulation of course lol)
-fit flat under my dosing pumps.
-thinking of using the lcd screen on the media center to be controlled by a simple program that says hello and good bye (on/off). And power button to initiate shutdown and on. Open source is great for simple tasks lol.
-room for upgrades.
-Only power strip and display will not be inside the housing.

what the reef-pi is going in. Will post pictures of my build steps once i have all the parts. Using perfboards and single core wires for stability and t-cobbler to attach pi. No jumper wires.

 

[Gary G]

wow that is a big box. so you going to put everything in one unit unlike most who will separate everything.

 

[theatrus]

While I want to dive into the software more, I've been spending some time conceptualizing a "base board" for a Raspberry Pi which has most of the common I/O circuits, power supplies, etc into a single board solution that will work with Reef-Pi.

I'm currently considering connectors and how to run various control signals to and from the board (PWM, 0-10V, temperature sensors, etc - pH remains BNC :)).

There are three main ways I'm thinking about this:

• Do what the APEX does and use RJ-45 jacks for connectors. Pros: Its compact, Cons: Probably the most annoying to wire arbitrary sensors into an RJ45 plug and crimp it - requires at least one special tool. I've more or less ruled this out.

• Do something similar to the blueAcro drivers and LEDs and use Phoenix PTSM right angle push-in terminal blocks. There is also a variant of these "push-in" headers which has a push-in plug, which mates with a latching board-mount connector. Pros: Accepts arbitrary wire, quick disconnect from the board. Cons: Some cost add.

• Go vertical on the board and don't try to put connectors on the edge of the board. This adds a lot of vertical height to any enclosures you would use with this (I'd like to design this with at least one target off the shelf plastic box). There are push-in terminal blocks available for this as well:

Pros: If you put this in a box, no need to try to make side cutouts to run connectors, everything can just be mounted from the top which is easier for a total custom enclosure. Cons: Adds height to the whole thing.

I've made a quick "floor planning" mock of what these connectors would look like on a board with a Raspberry Pi Zero W:

(Yes, the Raspberry Pi Zero is floating in mid-air - pretend there is a connector to the board in that avoid as well as standoffs ;))

Thoughts?

(Connectors will be the single biggest part cost to building such a board, easily $1-4 each)

 

[Gareth elliott]

Yes, trying to adapt the profilux 4 design to my reef-pi build.
With the media center enclosure gain manual reset and on/off button. Reset in newer pi’s is actually easy, just need to short the p6/run header(need to solder pins, these are not on the pi by default). On/off button plenty of open source, will use init script to run a adafruit 16x2 lcd on start up.
Already has usb ports just need to run these to the pi usb ports so have bluetooth device support(key board lol).
Flat design Fits in my cabinet better. Aluminum cutouts easier to work jack housing using a drill press, than with plastic.