reef-pi :: An opensource reef tank controller based on Raspberry Pi.

[theatrus]

On this topic, @theatrus , when one should go for mosfet vs a full blown meanwell driver? Or the builder has to know if the light requires constant current/voltage ?

All LEDs should be driven by a constant current driver - if its a commercial/blackbox/etc fixture, it should already have a constant current driver.

If the driver has an dimmer input, this should be very low current, logic level PWM or 0-10v low current as a control signal only.

If the driver doesn't have a dimmer input, you can often chop the actual constant current driver output by effectively disconnecting the LED string cathode at the PWM dimmer frequency - this will require a FET as you're controlling the full string current directly. Some drivers don't like this and will shut down (thinking everything has gone open circuit, which may cause the output anode to go very high voltage) or not respond correctly, so this is usually a mechanism of last resort.

If you're building your own LED string, use a constant current driver (Meanwell, blueAcro ones, etc) that you can control. Most support logic level PWM.

 

[LionHeart2017]

So dosing controller is the last part, or are you looking at adding more feature in future?

 

[speedstar]

you guys almost have me to the point of giving up Metal Halide ;) I may have to add some supp LED just to play with new features.

@Ranjib have you had anytime to experiment with the PH ORP board?

 

[Ranjib]

So dosing controller is the last part, or are you looking at adding more feature in future?

Yes, for 2.0 release this was the last that I had planned for. I might publish a few other guides, to showcase macro, building a comprehensive dashboard using reef-pi or some other niche topic, camera etc ... but this is the basic controller features (1 install guide + 6 module specific guides) that I wanted to go out as part of 2.o release.

 

[Ranjib]

All LEDs should be driven by a constant current driver - if its a commercial/blackbox/etc fixture, it should already have a constant current driver.

If the driver has an dimmer input, this should be very low current, logic level PWM or 0-10v low current as a control signal only.

If the driver doesn't have a dimmer input, you can often chop the actual constant current driver output by effectively disconnecting the LED string cathode at the PWM dimmer frequency - this will require a FET as you're controlling the full string current directly. Some drivers don't like this and will shut down (thinking everything has gone open circuit, which may cause the output anode to go very high voltage) or not respond correctly, so this is usually a mechanism of last resort.

If you're building your own LED string, use a constant current driver (Meanwell, blueAcro ones, etc) that you can control. Most support logic level PWM.

I am thinking of LED strips from reefbrite, trulumen or coralife. I current use power level mosfets. Although most of these are used as moon light, so only a few moinutes at night as and when I want/ on demand

 

[rushbattle]

So dosing controller is the last part, or are you looking at adding more feature in future?

He’s adding many more features in the future releases. Nothing more in 2.0.

 

[theatrus]

I am thinking of LED strips from reefbrite, trulumen or coralife. I current use power level mosfets. Although most of these are used as moon light, so only a few moinutes at night as and when I want/ on demand

All of these have drivers, just integrated. The Trulumen strips look like they have a set of linear drivers clustered on the board. No idea on the Reefbrite modules, but the actual power supply may be a constant current driver.

 

[ScottBrew]

All of these have drivers, just integrated. The Trulumen strips look like they have a set of linear drivers clustered on the board. No idea on the Reefbrite modules, but the actual power supply may be a constant current driver.

My Reefbrite strips have the constant current board on each segment, 6 segments per light strip. They sell a dimmer module which I believe just changes the voltage with a knob. Here's one that I have apart and stripped the heatshrink off it.

 

[Ranjib]

He’s adding many more features in the future releases. Nothing more in 2.0.

Just to add on this, we may add many of the 3.0 slated features in 2.x series , as minor releases ... like 2.1, 2.2 etc.. but if any of the slated feates requires breaking 2.0 API, or UI in substantial manner, that will trigger 3.0 beta builds and from then on all new features will be on 3.0 beta line leading upto everything we can add till next September/October. then we'll wrap up focus on only field testing and making sure all the things work smooth and cut 3.0 around next thanksgiving.

 

[Ranjib]

My Reefbrite strips have the constant current board on each segment, 6 segments per light strip. They sell a dimmer module which I believe just changes the voltage with a knob. Here's one that I have apart and stripped the heatshrink off it.

you control this with reef-pi ?

 

[ScottBrew]

you control this with reef-pi ?

I have 3 strips and use the reef-pi as a timer to control the 24vdc to turn them on and off. No dimming, no constant current control. Was just pointing out that the Reefbrites may be dimmable without needing a constant current control, just 0-24vdc. they were originally powered by power bricks.

 

[Ranjib]

I have 3 strips and use the reef-pi as a timer to control the 24vdc to turn them on and off. No dimming, no constant current control. Was just pointing out that the Reefbrites may be dimmable without needing a constant current control, just 0-24vdc. they were originally powered by power bricks.

Got it.

 

[Des Westcott]

Hi, I was hoping someone could help me. I have been running my reef-pi without any problems for a week. Now all of a sudden I can't access the UI. When I go to my raspberry pi's ip (like i had been doing all week) it now tries to get me to download a file, (i downloaded it and opened it in notepad and it doesnt seem to be anything). Reef-pi still seems to be running without any problems, lights are working, ato is working but now i can't get to the page.

Any help would be appreciated. Below is the readout of the status command.

pi@reefpi:~ $ sudo systemctl status reef-pi.service
● reef-pi.service - raspberry pi based reef tank controller
   Loaded: loaded (/lib/systemd/system/reef-pi.service; enabled; vendor preset: enabled)
   Active: active (running) since Mon 2018-11-26 23:50:07 CST; 12min ago
 Main PID: 1730 (reef-pi)
   CGroup: /system.slice/reef-pi.service
           └─1730 /usr/bin/reef-pi daemon -config /etc/reef-pi/config.yml

Nov 27 00:02:09 reefpi reef-pi[1730]: 2018/11/27 00:02:09 temperature sub-system:  sensor Temp1 value: 76.1
Nov 27 00:02:09 reefpi reef-pi[1730]: 2018/11/27 00:02:09 temperature subsystem: Current temperature is wit
Nov 27 00:02:09 reefpi reef-pi[1730]: 2018/11/27 00:02:09 Setting GPIO Pin: 3 State: 1
Nov 27 00:02:10 reefpi reef-pi[1730]: 2018/11/27 00:02:10 ERROR: Failed to submit data to adafruit.io. User
Nov 27 00:02:23 reefpi reef-pi[1730]: 2018/11/27 00:02:23 ato sub-system:  sensor ato1 value: 1
Nov 27 00:02:23 reefpi reef-pi[1730]: 2018/11/27 00:02:23 Setting GPIO Pin: 2 State: 1
Nov 27 00:02:38 reefpi reef-pi[1730]: 2018/11/27 00:02:38 lighting-subsystem: Setting PWM value: 86  at cha
Nov 27 00:02:38 reefpi reef-pi[1730]: 2018/11/27 00:02:38 ato sub-system:  sensor ato1 value: 1
Nov 27 00:02:38 reefpi reef-pi[1730]: 2018/11/27 00:02:38 lighting-subsystem: Setting PWM value: 91  at cha
Nov 27 00:02:38 reefpi reef-pi[1730]: 2018/11/27 00:02:38 Setting GPIO Pin: 2 State: 1

I had this exact issue a while ago and Ranjib got to the bottom of it and told me how to sort it out.

It had to do with https and the port (:80 or :?)

I'm looking for the info at the moment, but can't find it. I'll keep looking.

 

[Ranjib]

you guys almost have me to the point of giving up Metal Halide ;) I may have to add some supp LED just to play with new features.

@Ranjib have you had anytime to experiment with the PH ORP board?

MH is very reputed. You can always use some blue led strips for some extra pop

 

[Ranjib]

@speedstar :-), thank you

Do you have a thread on this ?

 

[Ranjib]

One of my current build , that I plan to use as backup, is in progress. My current idea is to keep power strip , two temp probes an ato and a kessil or ph monitor . The feature list is very similar to one of my existing controller (the one shown in the very first page of this thread). But this one is half the size . Powered by pi zero and has a spdt switch for main input power.

The new things I tried in this build was to make the circuit easier to solder by moving temp sensor to use gpio 12 instead of 4

I have 4 controllers in operation and I am planning to keep two backup controller and couple of sd cards with reef-pi dB backups in it. In case any of the controller fails, I’ll use one of the backup and set the relevant database and replace it with the failed controller. This way I’ll loose the stats, but all setup /configuration will be preserved .
I also received the mini xlr connectors . I really like these, they are available in 3 pin as well as 4 pin version. I think I don’t like the ato sensor’s jst connector more than even temp sensor connector (audio jack )

Spdt buttons

 

[wykat]

@speedstar :), thank you

Do you have a thread on this ?

Although I've not yet been able to test the new PCM PCB, I've created a thread related to this (and other ) PCB's at https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/reef-pi_-pcbs.513733/ I've received the new PWM PCB's already some time ago, but I can't find the required transistors anymore. Just ordered new ones today together with the components for Roberto_B's pH probe.
I've also uploaded a 31 page Reef-PI_HAT Build guideline with lots of pictures on how this Reef-PI_HAT board can be assembled. All information can be found at https://github.com/vandegraaf/Reef-PI_PCBs. Also other PCB design and documentation will be placed there.

 

[speedstar]

@speedstar :), thank you

Do you have a thread on this ?

Glad it arrived. I never did a build thread or anything, they are always after thoughts once I have it buttoned up.

 

[speedstar]

Also is that connector your using a mini XLR or a TA4FX? or are they the same thing? I use the latter in a lot of audio mics.

 

[b4tn]

Is it safe to say that if SPI is disabled the following pins on the perma proto hat can be used as just regular GPIO?

MOSI - GPIO 10
MISO - GPIO 9
CLK -GPIO 11
CE0 - GPIO 8
CE1 - GPIO 7