reef-pi :: An opensource reef tank controller based on Raspberry Pi.

[Ranjib]

Cool! The hat on Adafruit is sold out any other options?

amazon? It does not need to be adafruit. Those are good and very sturdy.. but if they are not available you should be able to get similar hats from gikfun and few other vendors in amazon.

 

[Des Westcott]

Got it. Can you disable this ato and create a new ato with same setting and see if that works? Im trying to diagnose if this is related to the past usage data or some other thing.

Will try that now. and report back.

As I said earlier, it worked once, but then not again

 

[Ranjib]

amazon? It does not need to be adafruit. Those are good and very sturdy.. but if they are not available you should be able to get similar hats from gikfun and few other vendors in amazon.

Amazon product

 

[Des Westcott]

Will try that now. and report back.

As I said earlier, it worked once, but then not again

Created a new ATO with the same parameters as the previous one and it worked as expected.

Edited parameters to higher threshold and they also worked

 

[Ranjib]

randomly stumbled upon this because I am trying to generate a 0-10v apex like control from my system to manage the speed of my pumps. I am slowly getting rid of ecotech stuff because it is so closed. So a new pump on the way takes apex style 0-10v. Anyway...

Here is my setup...in case it helps anyone who wants to DIY it. I'll get around to putting the code and detail on GitHub.

It measures the main parameters, watches the sump level, pump details and other instrumentations so I can start and stop things as needed.

For example, I have a process on the RPi in Node-red that turn on and off the heaters. But I have a second process on the Ubuntu system that watches this information as a backup process. All of these are on UPS. I recognize this is a bit extreme :) but...don't judge! HAHAHA!

My favorite part is how I can control everything in HomeKit, so when I go to the basement to check on something I can turn things on and off on my phone.

Also, since this is mostly mediated by MQTT I can create synthetic devices. For example, I have a device called "do swap" and that turns off the pump, stops the heaters, and a bunch of other things and then turns on an evacuation pump for 15 min. Then turns on a pump to put saltwater back into the sump. But it only does this if the swap salt is close to the same SG/pH/Temp as the tank.

Once you instrument...you can do lots of stuff!

If anyone is interested I can detail out the sensors and wiring and other things.

My goal is to make this easier on the next person! So ask away...

This is neat.
I was trying out some home automation recently. I am thinking of a permanent home assistant setup .. We are planning to add mqtt metric emission soon. I have a prototype branch already, i just have to polish it up. reef-pi api powers the entire reef-pi UI, and should be useful to build any kind of integration with most home automation system if anyone is seriously interested. Things like remote device control, group execution were recently launched in reef-pi, so im using straight up reef-pi for those.

 

[Des Westcott]

Created a new ATO with the same parameters as the previous one and it worked as expected.

Edited parameters to higher threshold and they also worked

If I go back and test the original ATO the same way, it doesn't alert or Disable

 

[Ranjib]

How do I clear all graph data?

You cant , easily. Theres reef-pi db command that you can use to purge the data, but its more involved than simply using UI. If possible just recreate the temp controller/ato etc,

 

[Schreiber]

Hey guys, are any of you using a Pi Zero wireless exclusively to control only lighting? I have one sitting around and I was thinking it could be cool to put it to use but only to control LEDs.

Ohhh, that's actually a pretty great idea.

 

[Schreiber]

Cool! The hat on Adafruit is sold out any other options?

youngreefer10g , If you're comfortable with surface mount soldering, I have my DIY Kraken board that's specifically designed for Reef-Pi in mind & has all the connections pre-routed in the board. Or, if you just want it pre-soldered, I also have the Leviathan Board, they're just more expensive to account for the components & time of assembly. If you're looking into the pre-soldered route, Michael Lane also has the Goby board. It's a little cheaper than my Leviathan board, but doesn't come with dosing control or float switch inputs. The right choice boils down to what features you plan to use & whether you want it pre-soldered out of the box or not.

The Leviathan/Kraken boards come with connections for all the features on Reef-Pi. The main difference you'd be looking at from the Adafruit guide is power control. I use relay boards connected to standard outlets for my builds, rather than buying the expensive American DJ bar. If you still wanted to use that though, you'd just need to wire the ULN2803 recommended in the Adafruit guide to the Equipment control outputs on the board.

 

[drbogger]

youngreefer10g , If you're comfortable with surface mount soldering, I have my DIY Kraken board that's specifically designed for Reef-Pi in mind & has all the connections pre-routed in the board. Or, if you just want it pre-soldered, I also have the Leviathan Board, they're just more expensive to account for the components & time of assembly. If you're looking into the pre-soldered route, Michael Lane also has the Goby board. It's a little cheaper than my Leviathan board, but doesn't come with dosing control or float switch inputs. The right choice boils down to what features you plan to use & whether you want it pre-soldered out of the box or not.

The Leviathan/Kraken boards come with connections for all the features on Reef-Pi. The main difference you'd be looking at from the Adafruit guide is power control. I use relay boards connected to standard outlets for my builds, rather than buying the expensive American DJ bar. If you still wanted to use that though, you'd just need to wire the ULN2803 recommended in the Adafruit guide to the Equipment control outputs on the board.

The goby board does indeed have a dosing port and 2 float switch ports.

 

[Schreiber]

The goby board does indeed have a dosing port and 2 float switch ports.

Ahh, you're right about the dosing, too late to edit & correct my post unfortunately. I'm used to using the dedicated L293D chip for dosing & since the Goby didn't have it, I had assumed it didn't have dosing. Just went & looked at the design files & it uses the PCA9685pw chip for that as well.

I still don't see the float switch inputs though, I see the optical sensor ones, are those what you're talking about?

 

[drbogger]

Ahh, you're right about the dosing, too late to edit & correct my post unfortunately. I'm used to using the dedicated L293D chip for dosing & since the Goby didn't have it, I had assumed it didn't have dosing. Just went & looked at the design files & it uses the PCA9685pw chip for that as well.

I still don't see the float switch inputs though, I see the optical sensor ones, are those what you're talking about?

The float switch ports are called "ATO1 & ATO2".

They can be used with optical type, inductive type, as well as the old mechanical type.

You just have to wire it correctly depending on what type your using.

 

[Schreiber]

Huh, this is the first time I've really looked into the Goby design files.

Michael, how does the lighting control work with the Goby? From what I can tell, you'd have to have a separate board that you populated with the transistors & a 10V power supply?

I think my main thing I've learned this afternoon is that I probably shouldn't assume what is/isn't on other boards just by a cursory glance at the board itself, lol.

 

[AbjectMaelstroM]

The float switch ports are called "ATO1 & ATO2".

They can be used with optical type, inductive type, as well as the old mechanical type.

You just have to wire it correctly depending on what type your using.

Yup.

I'm using an optical and an ultrasonic sensors. I had a float before I switched it to the ultrasonic. All 3 work great.

 

[AbjectMaelstroM]

Got bored over the last couple weeks and with all the time on my hands decided to make a case for all my spare Reefpi parts.

Here is the first production. I'm new to 3D modeling and printing so there's a bit of a learning curve and adjustments already need to be made (12v hole is about a.25mm off). Will also be adding a cutout for DB9, just not sure where I'm going to put it. And two more holes for aviation connectors for 4 total.

This is mainly to see it in its physical form instead of inside Fusion 360.

The "Michael Lane" collection haha. I need a different on off switch, really don't like that one but it's the only one I had on hand. May do a reset microswitch instead.

 

[drbogger]

Are you planning on releasing the files to any of us? I would love to get my hands on it.

 

[AbjectMaelstroM]

Yeah I can once it's done. It's still very much work in progress, something I'm playing with in my spare time.

Debating whether to make it a snap top or held with screws. Leaning more towards snap top.

 

[Ranjib]

Some pics of the pico tanks . They are getting back in shape . They both went through some changes.

and

I glued the cyphastrea that was growing at the bottom of nano in the back walls of these two pico. The first one will stay as primary zoa /softy place , but the second one will slowly have sps specific optimizations

cyphastreahas already started new growth

Liams Clove

Vamp in drag ??

blue tubbs

eagle eye

Grandis

Bambam

 

[Michael Lane]

Huh, this is the first time I've really looked into the Goby design files.

Michael, how does the lighting control work with the Goby? From what I can tell, you'd have to have a separate board that you populated with the transistors & a 10V power supply?

I think my main thing I've learned this afternoon is that I probably shouldn't assume what is/isn't on other boards just by a cursory glance at the board itself, lol.

The goby board wasn't really designed to work with 10v analog signals since I'm using a bunch of Mars Aqua lights (and now a couple Viparspectras). I'm kicking around another design that does include 10v analog, but the last few weeks have been a bit chaotic. The goby board would require additional add-ons to support 10v out.

 

[Michael Lane]

Hi @Ranjib - I'm having trouble getting my PH probe set up and was wondering if you had any idea as to what I'm doing wrong.

I'm using Michael Lanes reefpi gobi hat with a PI zero. As for PH I'm using Atlas's carrier board and PH module.

I got it set to i2c (blue light) but when I go to the PH tab and hit the add (+) button, there is nothing showing in the Analog Input dropdown.

Any idea?

Also I have o errors but this shows up when I first load the page, I think it's because I dont have anything configured on myy dashboard yet. {"error":"stats for id: '1' not found"} | HTTP 404

If you've got the board set to i2c, then the next step is to configure the driver. Go to Configuration | Drivers and add a new driver using ph-ezo. I think the default address is 0x63 (99) based on the datasheet I found.