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Hej, why do you need to use two float switches.? Is it possible to connect it woth only ine float switch? I still dont understand what did you do woth float swotch wores and ground wore from red sea sensor..It's honestly really easy to do yourself, just need wire cutters, two float switches, a wire nut or similar, and the bracket and you are done in 10 minutes max.
It works!!!
The cable only has 3 wires in it, an unshielded copper “ground” wire, and 2 insulated wires (red and blue). The ground wire is attached to pins 3 and 4 on the connector, and to one side of each of the pair of probes in the sensor. Blue and Red wires go to the other side of each of the probes. I twisted a wire from each of float sensors together, and soldered the ground line to it. Then soldered the other wire from each float sensor to the blue and red wires.
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This is the final modified cable I made. I used the app to verify which float switch should on the outside vs inside of the unit. The one that goes on the outside should trigger a high water level alarm to show up and also makes the exclamation point light blink on the drive unit. The other should trigger the drive unit to advance the mat.
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Here is the float sensor installed on the ReefMat. Used a piece of EVA foam to hold it in place.
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I have been wondering about the probe and how it detects water. I suppose that it is calibrated to some threshold of conductivity excepted in salt water. If I remember correctly, conductivity is affected by amount of dissolved ions (salt) and distance. Since freshwater has a lot lower conductivity, could one compensate by closing the distance between those protruding electrodes? Like soldering a piece of wire to one have it other end being very close to the other?I've adapted the reefmat 500 to my freshwater 400l system. My observations after using it for well over 6 months are that (i) you need to raise the roller much higher in the sum, i would say as high as you can so the gravity helps to make a more efficient use of the mat; i used a 3d printed raiser for that; (ii) i also used a 3d printed sensor mount raise it higher inside the roller for the same reason; i would say this is less important than the preceding point, and (iii) the rolls last much shorter anyway, with an usual consumption in range of 1-2 meters per day.
Still, the system is very helpful in my opinion. Beside the roll replacement there is no cleaning and the rest of the sump is reserved for biological media.
It’s been working great so far. The order / color is determined based on which side the motor is mounted on. I’m not sure which is which now. I just flipped the whole assembly I made around 180° so the correct float switch was on the inside vs outside.

Did you figure this out? I am going to start modifying mine on sunday