Reefmat Float sensor project

[jimfish98]

It works!!!

The cable only has 3 wires in it, an unshielded copper “ground” wire, and 2 insulated wires (red and blue). The ground wire is attached to pins 3 and 4 on the connector, and to one side of each of the pair of probes in the sensor. Blue and Red wires go to the other side of each of the probes. I twisted a wire from each of float sensors together, and soldered the ground line to it. Then soldered the other wire from each float sensor to the blue and red wires.

This is the final modified cable I made. I used the app to verify which float switch should on the outside vs inside of the unit. The one that goes on the outside should trigger a high water level alarm to show up and also makes the exclamation point light blink on the drive unit. The other should trigger the drive unit to advance the mat.

Here is the float sensor installed on the ReefMat. Used a piece of EVA foam to hold it in place.

First, how has this been holding up over the last few months?

Second just to be clear, you left the pins on the connector alone, combined one wire from each unit together and to the ground, and the other from one float to the red wire, the other wire from the second float to the blue. Does the order matter in the sense of the float inside has to be connected to a specific color or does it not matter?

 

[SnowyFox]

First, how has this been holding up over the last few months?

Second just to be clear, you left the pins on the connector alone, combined one wire from each unit together and to the ground, and the other from one float to the red wire, the other wire from the second float to the blue. Does the order matter in the sense of the float inside has to be connected to a specific color or does it not matter?

It’s been working great so far. The order / color is determined based on which side the motor is mounted on. I’m not sure which is which now. I just flipped the whole assembly I made around 180° so the correct float switch was on the inside vs outside.

 

[jimfish98]

It’s been working great so far. The order / color is determined based on which side the motor is mounted on. I’m not sure which is which now. I just flipped the whole assembly I made around 180° so the correct float switch was on the inside vs outside.

Found the float sensors on Amazon. What is that black material you are using to hold them?

 

[SnowyFox]

Found the float sensors on Amazon. What is that black material you are using to hold them?

It was just a scrap piece of acrylic I had laying around, nothing fancy at all.

 

[jimfish98]

did you run into an issue with the mat just advancing until it gave a jam error? Connected it just the same and that is all it is doing.

 

[SnowyFox]

did you run into an issue with the mat just advancing until it gave a jam error? Connected it just the same and that is all it is doing.

I'd check to make sure the float is oriented correctly. It might be upside down. The 2 wires for the float switch should only show a short circuit (~0ohm resistance) when the float is raised to the upper position. If it is showing a short in the lower position, then the magnetic float needs to be flipped upside down to reverse the operation of the float switch.

Here is an example of what I'm referring to:

 

[SnowyFox]

If the float sensor is setup correctly, where the ReefMat only starts to trigger the mat to advance when the float is fully raised up due to a high water level, but then fails to stop after starting, I would check what distance the mat is configured to advance in the app to make sure it wasn't misconfigured

 

[jimfish98]

Special thanks to @SnowyFox for helping me with mine. Figured out that both float switches needed reversing, however they were sent to me in opposite positions. Every time I reversed them both, they were still out of sync until I caught on. FYI, if you get high water reading all the time, then the blue wire sensor needs reversed. If the unit advances a little every 30 seconds, then the red wire sensor needs reversed.

 

[SnowyFox]

Special thanks to @SnowyFox for helping me with mine. Figured out that both float switches needed reversing, however they were sent to me in opposite positions. Every time I reversed them both, they were still out of sync until I caught on. FYI, if you get high water reading all the time, then the blue wire sensor needs reversed. If the unit advances a little every 30 seconds, then the red wire sensor needs reversed.

Is your drive unit setup on the right or left side of the ReefMat? What the Red / Blue wires control is dependent on which side the drive unit has been configured for.

Due to the way Red Sea designed their sensor, which side of the sensor that is inside of the unit for detecting when to advance the mat vs a high water level in the sump changes depending on if the sensor is mounted on the right side or left side of the unit.

 

[jimfish98]

Is your drive unit setup on the right or left side of the ReefMat? What the Red / Blue wires control is dependent on which side the drive unit has been configured for.

Due to the way Red Sea designed their sensor, which side of the sensor that is inside of the unit for detecting when to advance the mat vs a high water level in the sump changes depending on if the sensor is mounted on the right side or left side of the unit.

Mine is on the right.

 

[pbarnes298]

would you make one to sell me?

 

[bTRON]

@SnowyFox Would you mind posting a bit more about where you got the float sensors? A link maybe? I wanna try this myself. I have a 3d Printer and will design a custom mount for them. If anyone is interested, I'll post the 3D print file for anyone to print.

 

[SnowyFox]

@SnowyFox Would you mind posting a bit more about where you got the float sensors? A link maybe? I wanna try this myself. I have a 3d Printer and will design a custom mount for them. If anyone is interested, I'll post the 3D print file for anyone to print.

This is what I ordered, but they are currently listed as unavailable. It's just a basic float switch though, and there are a number of other options available. The main thing is they need to be configured such that when the float is in the down position (water level is low), the switch should be in the open position. When the float raises to the up position (high water level), the switch should close. Most of these float switches are also configurable, in that there is a small plastic clip you can remove which allows the float to come off. The switch can be changed by just taking the float off, and flipping it upside down and reattaching it to the stem.

Amazon product

 

[bTRON]

@SnowyFox Ok, Awesome, thank you. I ended up getting these switches on Amazon and designed a bracket for them. You can download the STL (3D print file) here. If you don't have a 3D printer, I think a lot of Staples allows you to order 3D prints at your local print center.

The 3D printed bracket works really well and is very secure, the only downfall is that you have to put it in place and then attach the float sensors due to how bulky the whole assembly is vs how small the opening in the filter is. Also note that you should not use PLA for this print as it dissolves over time in water. I used PETG filament which should not degrade in water.

 

[bTRON]

@SnowyFox Ok, Awesome, thank you. I ended up getting these switches on Amazon and designed a bracket for them. You can download the STL (3D print file) here. If you don't have a 3D printer, I think a lot of Staples allows you to order 3D prints at your local print center.

The 3D printed bracket works really well and is very secure, the only downfall is that you have to put it in place and then attach the float sensors due to how bulky the whole assembly is vs how small the opening in the filter is. Also note that you should not use PLA for this print as it dissolves over time in water. I used PETG filament which should not degrade in water.

A couple other notes:

Here is the G-Code file that goes with the STL in case you don't have a slicing program. This is what you would send to the 3D printer.

For me, the switches in my previous post, came inverted from what you need. I had to pull off the little bottom clip and flip the float 180 deg. and then put the clip back on. SnowyFox shows a video of this earlier in this thread.

In the app, it shows that my "Drive-unit position" is configured "Left". In this orientation, the Blue wire ended up being on the inside and the red was on the outside.

 

[edgee]

Hi guys this thread is fantastic
Iam currently installing a Red Sea s1000 for freshwater , Iam keeping fish for 10years now and was about to give it up last year , but decided to reinvest my interest , and go with a large tank and sump, reef mat seems to beat all filter Matt systems. I have been giving another method of installing a float system for reef mat but looks way too complicated it envolves installing these to circuit boards to floats and inserting them in mane Red Sea circuit board

Amazon product

Amazon product


SnowyFox is a lot simpler

But I cannot find the Anderson p3500 floats
Would this float work

DollaTek 5Pcs Liquid Level Sensor DC100V Fish Tank Water Float Switch, PP Plastic, 52mm : Amazon.co.uk: Business, Industry & Science

Shop DollaTek 5Pcs Liquid Level Sensor DC100V Fish Tank Water Float Switch, PP Plastic, 52mm. Free delivery on eligible orders of £20 or more.

amzn.eu

Many thanks to SnowyFox for this method

Edgee

 

[SnowyFox]

Hi guys this thread is fantastic
Iam currently installing a Red Sea s1000 for freshwater , Iam keeping fish for 10years now and was about to give it up last year , but decided to reinvest my interest , and go with a large tank and sump, reef mat seems to beat all filter Matt systems. I have been giving another method of installing a float system for reef mat but looks way too complicated it envolves installing these to circuit boards to floats and inserting them in mane Red Sea circuit board

Amazon product

Amazon product


SnowyFox is a lot simpler

But I cannot find the Anderson p3500 floats
Would this float work

DollaTek 5Pcs Liquid Level Sensor DC100V Fish Tank Water Float Switch, PP Plastic, 52mm : Amazon.co.uk: Business, Industry & Science

Shop DollaTek 5Pcs Liquid Level Sensor DC100V Fish Tank Water Float Switch, PP Plastic, 52mm. Free delivery on eligible orders of £20 or more.

amzn.eu

Many thanks to SnowyFox for this method

Edgee

Those look like they would be fine. The float switches are pretty generic in general, so swapping out for what is available in your area should be fine

 

[jimfish98]

I will say this after having converted the filter now for 4 or 5 months, it smells a bit. Does it filter, yes, but I am considering removing it and going with a Klir Di-7 with stand. Before removing the sock trays to install the Reefmat 500 in my sump I was running a pair of Di-4 in my sock holes. Run as FW or SW, those filters never smelled as they were enclosed a bit. I have noticed that as I get further into a roll with FW the Reefmat begins to start getting stinky. Of course at least with standard rolls from each company, the Klir is pulling out more with a better micron rating and one would think it would be a more stinky used roll. I have resorted to keeping a wall plug in in the office with the tank but I am going to start removing the used roll mid way to reduce smell. I am watching Klir open box sales though and considering selling my RS500 and swapping out.

 

[edgee]

Hi guys
Just an update on my converted Reefmat float switch that I took from here .
All went really well , pretty straight forward
Thnks to Snowy Fox a very straightforward way !
Thnks to bTron for your printed bracket !
Red wire does indeed seem to be on inside sensor float switch which had to raise a bit higher (see foto) coz of type that I bought .
I made a Perspex raiser for my Reefmat 1200
I raised it a full 80mm
Bottoms sits about 20mm from sump
Water , uses about 50% less fleece huge difference , the weight of the water pushes more water through fleece roll !
Reefmat water overflow is higher than sump height , I ran an overflow test and all is good for overflow if there’s a blockage or jam or unit stops !
Thnks guys

 

[jimfish98]

Makerwold i believe has a free 3d print for that riser.