Safe filament to use?

[cpolan2]

I have a few filaments I am between for printing something. I want to make sure it will not affect my saltwater tank. I have listed the options below. Please let me know the best option to use:

ABS, PLA, HIPS, PVA, wood filled filaments, Polyester (Tritan), PETT, bronze and copper filled filaments, Polycarbonate, Nylon, PETG, conductive PLA and ABS, UV luminescent filaments, PCTPE, PC-ABS.

I am pretty sure ABS is okay, but I just wanted to double check.

 

[Alex Cataldo]

ABS, PETG and PLA are for sure safe. Generally speaking, get good quality filament and you won’t have any issues.

 

[damsels are not mean]

PETG, PLA, ABS should all be safe. It's not usually the material itself that's a problem. Most plastics are fine in saltwater. The problem can come in the dyes which may leech or degrade over time. You can try to ask the manufacturer but they might not tell the truth or the whole truth. That said, I have yet to hear of a tank crash due to any filament. So I suspect it is incredibly rare if it does happen.

I would avoid some of the more exotic filaments since there is less trial and error on those and I would make sure to clean the nozzle and run the known reef safe filament for a bit before printing anything you want to put into the tank.

This list is full of tried and true filaments and brands. You can also ask some of the shops that 3d print parts. Some may tell you what they use.

Reef Safe 3D Printing Filament

Hi Everybody, Let's create a master list of known reef safe filaments. Please post the filaments you have had success with and I will update this initial post accordingly. Please include the manufacturer, plastic type and colour. Copolyester colorFabb nGen White Hatchbox PETG White MG...

www.reef2reef.com

 

[Tavero]

PETG and PET
PLA will degrade in saltwater and get brittle.

I have listed the options below.

There are some fairly exotic filaments in your list. Are you able to print successfully with all of them?

Not specific to reef keeping, but is anyone even using ABS anymore? There are so many better options nowadays that are easier to print, sturdier and more heat resistant.

 

[damsels are not mean]

PLA will degrade in saltwater and get brittle.

Everybody says this will happen, nobody seems to have reported it...

 

[Tavero]

Everybody says this will happen, nobody seems to have reported it...

A reef rack literally crumbeled in my hand after one year. Layer adhesion was reduced to nothing. Everyone reports it because it is true but i didn't listen.

 

[Seymo44]

PLA will supposedly break down, though I have not experienced that. ABS can be a pain to print large objects due to warping. PETG is great for this application, though it can stick to the bed too well. I’ve seen videos of ppl breaking glass print beds when trying to remove finished prints. If using PETG spray the bed liberally with aqua net hair spray.

 

[damsels are not mean]

A reef rack literally crumbeled in my hand after one year. Layer adhesion was reduced to nothing. Everyone reports it because it is true but i didn't listen.

I think it must depend on the specific filament used. I've had no issues with some loc-line printed in PLA. They have been in for several months and I just adjusted them recently. They still feel like typical loc-line pieces.

 

[Tavero]

I think it must depend on the specific filament used. I've had no issues with some loc-line printed in PLA. They have been in for several months and I just adjusted them recently. They still feel like typical loc-line pieces.

Maybe. I am using Anycubic PLA because it is easy to print and extremely cheap during 3 for 2 sales.

There is no question that PLA will break down from UV exposure though regardless of brand.

 

[JerseyReefer]

I used a PLA printed part in my kalkwasser bin. In about 3 months, it turned to mush. So I guess the caustic nature of the kalk is too extreme for PLA. I had zip ties in there as well and they were fine.

 

[Tavero]

For anyone that still has doubts.


My theory is that it isn't uv but bacteria that is breaking down pla. Right now I am testing a pla printed uvc casing. This is probably the best location to test this theory because the inside of that casing is sterilized all the time by getting blasted with uvc.

See you guys in 4 years

 

[dangros]

any more input on what actually works now? I'm likely to get either a Qidi 3 plus or a Mk4

 

[Tavero]

any more input on what actually works now? I'm likely to get either a Qidi 3 plus or a Mk4

Never heard of that printer or company. Never seen any reviews either. But I guess you did? Then you will make the right choice.

Just use petg for functional parts and pla for more detailed prints. (Petg is stringing)
The rest is meme filament. I still have spools of HIPS, ABS, PMMA and TPU that I've bought 10 years ago. Almost full, almost never used. It's not that I CANT print with them, but why should I? They are horrible materials for fdm printing.
There is a reason pla and petg are the most sold materials.

 

[cilyjr]

Everybody says this will happen, nobody seems to have reported it...

I print in both pla and PETG. Made clips to hold some netting in place. The pla ones got brittle and about 6 months. The PETG ones are still functioning.

Same with clips to hold tubes. Most got brittle and I replaced them with PETG ones.

PLA is great for non water contact items.

 

[MaksymR]

When selecting a plastic for use in a saltwater aquarium, it's essential to choose materials that are chemically stable, non-toxic, and resistant to degradation in saline environments. Here are some options:

---

Aquarium-Safe Plastics​

1. PETG (Polyethylene Terephthalate Glycol)
   • Why It's Safe: Chemically inert, durable, and less prone to leaching compared to other plastics.
   • Pros: Easy to print, excellent resistance to water and salt.
   • Applications: Decorations, pipe fittings, and custom aquarium parts.
2. Nylon (Polyamide)
   • Why It's Safe: Non-toxic and durable in aquatic environments.
   • Pros: Strong and flexible, resistant to saltwater and UV exposure.
   • Cons: Can absorb water slightly, so ensure it’s sealed if used for critical components.
   • Applications: Custom brackets, filter parts, or movable components.
3. Polypropylene (PP)
   • Why It's Safe: Used in many commercial aquarium products like pipes and fittings.
   • Pros: Inert, lightweight, and highly resistant to saltwater corrosion.
   • Cons: Difficult to 3D print due to warping issues.
   • Applications: Tanks, sumps, and plumbing parts.
4. Acrylic (Polymethyl Methacrylate, PMMA)
   • Why It's Safe: Non-toxic and frequently used in aquariums for windows and decorations.
   • Pros: Clear, rigid, and easy to shape or machine.
   • Cons: Brittle under stress; not suitable for 3D printing but excellent for DIY projects.
   • Applications: Covers, dividers, and display tanks.
5. HDPE (High-Density Polyethylene)
   • Why It's Safe: Used in food-grade and marine applications.
   • Pros: Strong, inert, and resistant to saltwater degradation.
   • Cons: Not commonly used in 3D printing but available for machining.
   • Applications: Structural supports, containers, and custom platforms.

---

Plastics to Avoid​

1. PLA (Polylactic Acid)
   • Biodegradable and prone to degradation in water, especially in warmer tanks.
2. ABS (Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene)
   • May leach harmful chemicals and degrade over time in saltwater.
3. PVC (Polyvinyl Chloride)
   • While commonly used in plumbing, it can leach plasticizers if not specifically rated for aquarium use.

 

[Tavero]

For anyone that still has doubts.


My theory is that it isn't uv but bacteria that is breaking down pla. Right now I am testing a pla printed uvc casing. This is probably the best location to test this theory because the inside of that casing is sterilized all the time by getting blasted with uvc.

See you guys in 4 years

After using the UVC casing 4 times for a combined amount of around 8 weeks in the last 3 years, i had to scrap it. The glued seam started to leak and the inside smelled like a Popcorn bag. I made some initial design mistakes, but there is no doubt the pla was degrading at a rapid speed.
Now i printed it in petg.

 

[cba191]

What about ASA