Show Off and Discuss Your Red Sea Reefer Series

[Jonathan Iu]

http://www.pvcfittingsonline.com/3-...le-adapter-mpt-x-socket-836-102.html?___SID=U

I know Toby has posted this before but for everyone this is the 3/4" x 1" SLIP adapter for the Red Sea return.

 

[Jonathan Iu]

@Sharkz and @Jonathan Iu... here's a breakdown using colored furniture grade PVC and 1" main piping... if you are using 3/4" main piping, then simply substitute the 1" parts for 3/4".

PIPING

• 1/2"
• 1"

COLORED FITTINGS

• (4) 1" 90 degree elbows
• (1) 1" 45 degree elbow
• (3) 1" tees
• (9) 1/2" 90 degree elbows (may need 2 extra if you are doing the same sump as I have)

STANDARD SCHEDULE 40/80 FITTINGS

• (1) 1" True Union
• (3) 1" x 1/2" bushings
• (3) 1/2" gate valves
• (6) 1/2" MPT x 1/2" SLIP adapters (for top of reactors)
• (1) 3/4" MPT x 1" SLIP adapter(for connection to Red Sea return fitting)

ADDITIONAL FITTINGS NEEDED IF DOING THE MAIN AND EMERGENCY DRAINS LIKE MINE

• (2) 3/4" MPT x 1" SLIP adapter(for connection to Red Sea return fitting) NOTE: You will need to purchase 2 additional Red Sea barbed return assemblies.
• (1) 1" gate valve

O-RINGS NEEDED FOR ADAPTERS ON TOP OF REACTORS

• (12) I.D. of 11/16" with an O.D. of 7/8" with a thickness of 3/32"

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/to...utm_source=Google_PLA&utm_medium=Construction

I recommend getting this kit above to keep at your house... has a ton of different sizes and is cheap. I actually have this kit and the metric version. You never know what you might need an o-ring for around the house!

Just to confirm all the gate valves are slip?
I can't seem to find the 1/2"mpt to 1/2 " slip on pvc fittings . Only these
http://www.pvcfittingsonline.com/836-005-1-2-schedule-80-pvc-male-adaptor.html
Also are all the fittings are schedule 40? You mentioned schedule 80 on the list but the colored ones are only schedule 40.
What pipe supports did you use?

Thanks

 

[Jonathan Iu]

I am also adding 3/4" UV into the manifold http://www.aquaultraviolet.com/products/uvsterilizers/classic/57watt. What converter do I need to go from 3/4" back to the 1" pipe?

 

[ReefingwithO]

Correct, all colored furniture grade PVC is schedule 40.



All of that is correct, but you will need to order a replacement Red Sea barbed return fitting assembly... then simply remove the barbed section and replace it with the 3/4" MPT x 1" SLIP. It's the circled part:

Thanks Toby, all the stuff has been ordered. Getting all the stuff from pvcfittingsonline.com was slightly cheaper than BRS. I emailed Amanda from Red Sea to see where I can get the replacement barbed return fitting assembly.

At some point i want to redo my sump area. It was so neat in beginning and then a pipe broke (wasn't glued properly) - I didn't have red and grey pvc and had to run to Lowes to get white fittings. Also not enough forward thinking when I needed to add more reactors.

 

[Broadfield]

Just to confirm all the gate valves are slip?
I can't seem to find the 1/2"mpt to 1/2 " slip on pvc fittings . Only these
http://www.pvcfittingsonline.com/836-005-1-2-schedule-80-pvc-male-adaptor.html
Also are all the fittings are schedule 40? You mentioned schedule 80 on the list but the colored ones are only schedule 40.
What pipe supports did you use?

Thanks

Yes, the gate valves are all slip. The link you posted is indeed a 1/2" MPT x 1/2" SLIP. No, colored pipe/fittings are schedule 40... while the grey fittings are schedule 80. Schedule 40 and 80 are the same size.... it's all interchangeable. I don't remember what size of pipe straps I used, but I used the plastic ones that are used for PVC electrical conduit.... they are a little lighter grey color. Since the piping does not hug the underside of the stand, I used oversized clamps to make up for the spacing. They are really cheap, so simply buy a few different sizes to make sure you have what you need. Like these: http://www.mscdirect.com/product/de...164124449252&gclid=CMWrnJCcnNECFUW4wAod37gC-A

I am also adding 3/4" UV into the manifold http://www.aquaultraviolet.com/products/uvsterilizers/classic/57watt. What converter do I need to go from 3/4" back to the 1" pipe?

Where exactly are you plumbing it back in? Then I can tell you what you are going to need.

 

[jsbull]

Let me suggest that you don't glue the fitting to the Vectra. If you ever decide to make a change, sell it, upgrade, need a replacement, etc, you're in a tougher spot. As long as it is below the water line (which even my L1 is), just press fitting it works fine.

 

[Jonathan Iu]

Yes, the gate valves are all slip. The link you posted is indeed a 1/2" MPT x 1/2" SLIP. No, colored pipe/fittings are schedule 40... while the grey fittings are schedule 80. Schedule 40 and 80 are the same size.... it's all interchangeable. I don't remember what size of pipe straps I used, but I used the plastic ones that are used for PVC electrical conduit.... they are a little lighter grey color. Since the piping does not hug the underside of the stand, I used oversized clamps to make up for the spacing. They are really cheap, so simply buy a few different sizes to make sure you have what you need. Like these: http://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/54090360?cid=ppc-google-New+-+Hose,+Tube,+Fittings+&+Valves+-+PLA_sxudN6hGM&cid=PLA-Google-PLA+-+Test___164124449252_c_S&mkwid=sxudN6hGM&cid=PLA-Google-PLA+-+Test|dc&pcrid=164124449252&gclid=CMWrnJCcnNECFUW4wAod37gC-A



Where exactly are you plumbing it back in? Then I can tell you what you are going to need.

The UV steriliser will come first and I want it plumbed back into the manifold so it can go through the reactors. Is this the correct order ? Or would the output of the sterilizer go back into the return chamber? Thanks

 

[SlvrZ]

I just cut off the old diaphragm thing and bought a couple and adaptor to make it all work.

Also finally finished my manifold lol. Need to clean and paint. Anyone know what grey the 80s are?

All of that is correct, but you will need to order a replacement Red Sea barbed return fitting assembly... then simply remove the barbed section and replace it with the 3/4" MPT x 1" SLIP. It's the circled part:

 

[TheReefKeeper]

Step one was a lot of work to get this tank all self automated.

Water change station all done time to head upstairs and get the tank plumbed up!

Here is the auto water change setup 75 gallon holding tub I calculate I should have to fill it once a month.

I'll have more pictures of tank setup in the next week as my plumbing is opposite of the Red Sea Sump kinda sucks but a 12 week wait for a Sump is crazy I'll make it work.

 

[powers2001]

Step one was a lot of work to get this tank all self automated.

Water change station all done time to head upstairs and get the tank plumbed up!

Here is the auto water change setup 75 gallon holding tub I calculate I should have to fill it once a month.

I'll have more pictures of tank setup in the next week as my plumbing is opposite of the Red Sea Sump kinda sucks but a 12 week wait for a Sump is crazy I'll make it work.

TheReefKeeper, I have similar tanks by Ace-Rotomold but they are 50 gallon. Did you put an RO float valve shut-off in the tank? If so, how? I want to put a float switch/shutoff in mine but drilling from the top of tank the float might hit the tank before shutting off and drilling from side the little bulkhead fitting on the float might not form a seal because of the curvature of the tank.

http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/ro-float-valve.html

 

[TheReefKeeper]

Use this one it's adjustable so you can drop the water line before the bulkhead and washer they give you on the float

http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/adjustable-ro-float-valve.html

I'm out but I'll get some pics of how it's all setup inside I did a hardline with a 1/4 hose connector inside as you can see the 3/4-1/4 fitting on top of the tank

From this point down it's all hardline with the saltwater line zip tied to it so it draws from 5-6" from the bottom.

 

[Broadfield]

The UV steriliser will come first and I want it plumbed back into the manifold so it can go through the reactors. Is this the correct order ? Or would the output of the sterilizer go back into the return chamber? Thanks

You can do it either way, but typically you have all of the return flow go through the UV... so it would go last, right before it is returned to the tank. If you do it this way, then you need to have it come off of the manifold via a tee, into a true union ball valve, then the UV, out of the UV into another true union ball valve and then back into another tee on the manifold. You will want a true union ball valve in between the two tees on the manifold.

 

[Jonathan Iu]

You can do it either way, but typically you have all of the return flow go through the UV... so it would go last, right before it is returned to the tank. If you do it this way, then you need to have it come off of the manifold via a tee, into a true union ball valve, then the UV, out of the UV into another true union ball valve and then back into another tee on the manifold. You will want a true union ball valve in between the two tees on the manifold.

thanks man! Will do that .

 

[Sage Robinson]

Hi all, Looking at purchasing a controller for my new reefer 350, mainly looking at it for control and looking after my tank while I'm away. Long term will add the DOS and automatic feeder. Question is should I go for the classic edition or the 2016 edition (heard some negative reviews). Getting the 2016 edition for the power bar is not a consideration as I'm from a 240V country and so both come with the classic EB6. And is salinity monitoring worth it, I've heard lots of people have problems getting a stable reading from the probe.
Cheers

 

[Pongo]

Hi all, Looking at purchasing a controller for my new reefer 350, mainly looking at it for control and looking after my tank while I'm away. Long term will add the DOS and automatic feeder. Question is should I go for the classic edition or the 2016 edition (heard some negative reviews). Getting the 2016 edition for the power bar is not a consideration as I'm from a 240V country and so both come with the classic EB6. And is salinity monitoring worth it, I've heard lots of people have problems getting a stable reading from the probe.
Cheers

If you can't use the EB832 then to me it's a no brainer and get the classic for less money.
Either way you'll still have to get the 1link module in order to hook up the DOS later.

I've had both and liked both. I've never had any problems with my salinity probe or any of the probes.
Once I got it calibrated I had to set the temp offset to match my refractometer. After that it's stayed accurate for 6 months.

 

[Jonathan Iu]

Hi all, Looking at purchasing a controller for my new reefer 350, mainly looking at it for control and looking after my tank while I'm away. Long term will add the DOS and automatic feeder. Question is should I go for the classic edition or the 2016 edition (heard some negative reviews). Getting the 2016 edition for the power bar is not a consideration as I'm from a 240V country and so both come with the classic EB6. And is salinity monitoring worth it, I've heard lots of people have problems getting a stable reading from the probe.
Cheers

I got the APEX 2016 on Amazon and will sell the new EB832 on eBay since the price was the same as APEX 2016 retail in the UK with out any power bars. Then I bought 2 EB 6s. Works fine .No problems with the new APEx 2016. The firmware has been updated . I'm guessing you are from the UK. If you are daring enough you can also buy a high wattage transformer for the EB 832 Most of the other stuff like Vortechs and even the Kessil AP700s are multi voltage so you can plug directly into the EB832 with a US plug.

 

[AlexDm]

Which Skimmer does everyone suggest for my new 350 reefer ? Any good ones with a controller also what ATO system ?? So many out there with split good and bad reviews...

 

[powers2001]

Which Skimmer does everyone suggest for my new 350 reefer ? Any good ones with a controller also what ATO system ?? So many out there with split good and bad reviews...

Skimz. BRS handles the warranty for Skimz and they do a good job with it. I broke my Skimz Zeolith reactor and they sent me a free one with just one phone call.

 

[Jonathan Iu]

Which Skimmer does everyone suggest for my new 350 reefer ? Any good ones with a controller also what ATO system ?? So many out there with split good and bad reviews...

I use a Tunze 9410 DC with a 4" riser and a Tunze 3155 ATO. I find the ATO a bit finicky since when you adjust the drain you need to turn it off or either it will beep or it will start filling sump..

 

[Pongo]

what ATO system ?? So many out there with split good and bad reviews...

I'm using the Tunze Osmolator 3155 with an Advanced Acrylics ATO container that sits next to the tank.
Seems reliable and gets the job done. The container holds 14gal so I just top it off with RO/DI water once a week.