Show Off and Discuss Your Red Sea Reefer Series

blkhwkz · Apr 22, 2017

So testing the CO2 scrubber some more and had some weird things going on when I was out of town. The previous canister lasted 2 weeks, the next one only a few days. Filled it before I left, made sure air was being pulled through it and we left. First 2 days my pH was lower than it should be with new media, but it was warmer than normal for this time of year here. The next few days it was very cool and levels were where I expected them. Now that everything is blooming should be interesting to see how this goes. I still have a few weeks of the BRS media left and then I will order some more from the vet supply place or another place I found where it is cheaper.

Leyth · Apr 22, 2017

Hi guys, I thought this would be the last picture I ever take but my wife actually didn't kill me so I'm still here!!!

Brought home a reefer 350.

baktabiznis · Apr 22, 2017

Leyth said:
Hi guys, I thought this would be the last picture I ever take but my wife actually didn't kill me so I'm still here!!!

Brought home a reefer 350.

Nice...

Ishy · Apr 23, 2017

shred5 said:
Yep

Is it a 140?, I have a 180 in our 525 they are excellent skimmers.

Wet_Fretboards · Apr 23, 2017

So, my system is ready for it's first inhabitants, parameter wise. My only problem is I seem to be constantly chasing the return level with that danged drain valve, which is causing a real problem with knowing where to set my ATO level. I don't want it to falsely trigger, and screw my salinity level up. I am using a DIY ATO with a float switch, relay and pump. (Think ATO.com style). Am I over thinking this? I've only had sumpless nanos in the past, so that part is new to me. Should I just set it, forget it, and then re adjust salinity later?

shred5 · Apr 24, 2017

Since I keep getting asked, I actually already thought I posted it in the thread. I got the side cabinets:

Cabinets:
http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/90333938/

Feet
http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/70340044/

They will deliver these Fed-ex

ReefingwithO · Apr 24, 2017

Hey @pelphrey, how is the Reef Octopus return pump working for you? I need a pump to run my chiller, I bought an Eheim pump buts it's so loud.

Wet_Fretboards · Apr 24, 2017

oseymour said:
Hey @pelphrey, how is the Reef Octopus return pump working for you? I need a pump to run my chiller, I bought an Eheim pump buts it's so loud.

Pelphrey can answer too, but mine is DEAD SILENT. I love the thing.

pelphrey · Apr 24, 2017

@oseymour Like @Wet_Fretboards mentioned, my VarioS6 is silent! Very happy with this pump!

pelphrey · Apr 24, 2017

mlew12 · Apr 24, 2017

Ishy said:
Thought you guys may be interested in this I have fitted to my 525 with no mods to the sump. No more filter socks, no more floss no more bubble trap and more time to look at the tank. It used an infra red sensor, has 100 metres of media the electrics detach from the filter assembly and the whole top section can adjust from side to side,

Can you tell me more about this or point me in the direction of where I can read more about it? I've been looking at the Clarisea SK15, but like not having to mod the sump.

Ishy · Apr 24, 2017

mlew12 said:
Can you tell me more about this or point me in the direction of where I can read more about it? I've been looking at the Clarisea SK15, but like not having to mod the sump.

Yes of course but there is nowhere to point you at the moment. Its been designed by a reefer here in the uk, I offered to help with production and prototyping as thats what I do. The model you see in the pic is a prototype that I think will be fairly close to a production model. I was given this unit because I laser cut the acrylic parts so sort of inherited the job of being test pilot so to speak, most of this involves testing different media and motors etc.
The idea with this was to make a more compact unit that would drop into sumps fairly easily with a higher flow capability while using high quality components like the ir level sensor that has wave detection rather than a float that he felt would eventually give problems due to salt creep. The other criteria was for there to be more filter media available on each roll and all the above has been achieved and the fact that it fits in a 525 sump which is pretty awkward is a bonus however the ATU has to be removed but lots of people do this anyway. Another big plus with the X Filter is that the whole electrical assembly can be removed with two screws leaving the filter unit in place.
I can't speak for the guy who designed it but I think the next step would probably be to make a couple of actual production units and put them on a final short test before going ahead with marketing them.

ReefingwithO · Apr 24, 2017

Wet_Fretboards said:
Pelphrey can answer too, but mine is DEAD SILENT. I love the thing.

pelphrey said:
@oseymour Like @Wet_Fretboards mentioned, my VarioS6 is silent! Very happy with this pump!

Thanks guys. I'm going to pick one up. It will power my chiller and also serve as a backup to my vectra.

revhtree · Apr 24, 2017

Leyth said:
Hi guys, I thought this would be the last picture I ever take but my wife actually didn't kill me so I'm still here!!!

Brought home a reefer 350.

LOL!

pelphrey · Apr 24, 2017

oseymour said:
Thanks guys. I'm going to pick one up. It will power my chiller and also serve as a backup to my vectra.

I am not sure what the other pumps output is, but the VarioS6 has a 1 1/4" output. It comes with 2 fittings for hard plumbing and one fitting for soft tubing. This is just an FYI so you can grab any reducers you may need when you order the pump!

Leyth · Apr 24, 2017

Well, I set up the tank and stand this past weekend. I cleaned it up and now I am starting to piece together my setup. However, before I get it wet, I need to make sure that it's level and that my floor is actually going to hold it. So, I did my research, but I am still unsure what to do. I took a bunch of pictures, hopefully you guys can guide me to the right approach:

So first off, this is how I tested how level it is. The stand still has the rubber feet and we are directly on the hardwood floor.

Up close, this is how much it is off. I am not sure how to read that. I may need to buy a better level? What do you think?

Measuring inside the sump to ensure consistency in our leveling readings:

Here is the measure on the long side of the tank:

So with that being said, here are is my next concern, the topic that never ends. Will my aquarium fall through the floor one day? Yea I learned that is unlikely, but it can potentially sag your floor over time if your floor can't hold the weight. Well, I'd like your opinions on my research and observations from my situation. I have a basement below the tank and this is how the joists run. I wanted to run perpendicular, but we don't have a spot that makes sense to us. However, it is up against a concrete wall and then my research on these joists seem to show that this tank would not be an issue. It's a 350 if I forgot to mention that so 91 gallons total. Anyways, here are the pictures and my explanations:

So in the basement, this is directly under the front part of the tank. I used a laser measuring tool to measure the distance from the ground to this very spot. I marked both locations so I can get accurate readings in the future to measure and detect sagging.

I am pretty confident this is the guide for the floors my house has(house was built in 97): https://parr.com/PDFs/TJ-4000_ijoist_guide.pdf

It's difficult to understand for me, but I think I have the 110 TJI with a 11'7/8" depth. That says 1,560 Maximum Vertical Shear. I have no idea what that means, but I assuming thats the most weight that joist can hold across right? Now if I am right about that then I should still be fine because the concrete wall will be taking some of the weight anyways right? I feel like I'm in college again researching this stuff haha. Well, what do you guys think? Just hire an engineer or do you think I've been accurate with my research and taking the correct precautions? Can I get this dang thing wet before my wife makes me return it?!?! Thanks ahead for taking your time to read through my boring coral-less post.

blkhwkz · Apr 24, 2017

Leyth said:
Well, I set up the tank and stand this past weekend. I cleaned it up and now I am starting to piece together my setup. However, before I get it wet, I need to make sure that it's level and that my floor is actually going to hold it. So, I did my research, but I am still unsure what to do. I took a bunch of pictures, hopefully you guys can guide me to the right approach:

So first off, this is how I tested how level it is. The stand still has the rubber feet and we are directly on the hardwood floor.

Up close, this is how much it is off. I am not sure how to read that. I may need to buy a better level? What do you think?

Measuring inside the sump to ensure consistency in our leveling readings:

Here is the measure on the long side of the tank:

So with that being said, here are is my next concern, the topic that never ends. Will my aquarium fall through the floor one day? Yea I learned that is unlikely, but it can potentially sag your floor over time if your floor can't hold the weight. Well, I'd like your opinions on my research and observations from my situation. I have a basement below the tank and this is how the joists run. I wanted to run perpendicular, but we don't have a spot that makes sense to us. However, it is up against a concrete wall and then my research on these joists seem to show that this tank would not be an issue. It's a 350 if I forgot to mention that so 91 gallons total. Anyways, here are the pictures and my explanations:

So in the basement, this is directly under the front part of the tank. I used a laser measuring tool to measure the distance from the ground to this very spot. I marked both locations so I can get accurate readings in the future to measure and detect sagging.

I am pretty confident this is the guide for the floors my house has(house was built in 97): https://parr.com/PDFs/TJ-4000_ijoist_guide.pdf

It's difficult to understand for me, but I think I have the 110 TJI with a 11'7/8" depth. That says 1,560 Maximum Vertical Shear. I have no idea what that means, but I assuming thats the most weight that joist can hold across right? Now if I am right about that then I should still be fine because the concrete wall will be taking some of the weight anyways right? I feel like I'm in college again researching this stuff haha. Well, what do you guys think? Just hire an engineer or do you think I've been accurate with my research and taking the correct precautions? Can I get this dang thing wet before my wife makes me return it?!?! Thanks ahead for taking your time to read through my boring coral-less post.

I have an XL425 (100 gallons after displacement) running the same way as your tank would, against an outside wall and parallel to the joists. No floor sagging or any other issues so far and I have had it there since August. If any sagging starts to happen was just going to buy a jack post and install it.

I used composite shims from Lowe's to get mine level. in the front. I filled it with tap water, let it settle for 48 hours and checked to make sure it was still level. It was, so I drained it, let it dry and then added my rock, sand and water few days later.

Leyth · Apr 25, 2017

blkhwkz said:
I have an XL425 (100 gallons after displacement) running the same way as your tank would, against an outside wall and parallel to the joists. No floor sagging or any other issues so far and I have had it there since August. If any sagging starts to happen was just going to buy a jack post and install it.

I used composite shims from Lowe's to get mine level. in the front. I filled it with tap water, let it settle for 48 hours and checked to make sure it was still level. It was, so I drained it, let it dry and then added my rock, sand and water few days later.

Awesome, I'd do the same if I noticed sagging and I'll alert you if I notice anything. So I'm guessing you're not using the rubber feet on the tank? You couldn't shim if you had those on right?

blkhwkz · Apr 25, 2017

Leyth said:
Awesome, I'd do the same if I noticed sagging and I'll alert you if I notice anything. So I'm guessing you're not using the rubber feet on the tank? You couldn't shim if you had those on right?

I left the rubber feet on.