Show Off and Discuss Your Red Sea Reefer Series
- Thread starter Broadfield
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blkhwkz
Well-Known Member
Is this how everyone's tank sits above the doors? I figured the front panel would need to be supported.
Yea mine is pretty close to that.
Hello everyone! First post! I decided to make the jump back into the hobby after about a 7 year break with a Reefer 170. The tank arrives in a couple days can't wait to start setting it up! I've done several FOWLR tanks in the past past but never had corals so I figured I give it a shot. I travel a lot for work so hopefully it works out, but it seems the tech has come a long ways since I last had a tank. I decided that if I was going to get back in I wanted it to be a new experience and unlike anything I'd done in the past. So, I went with dry rock and am "curing" it myself as apposed to buying live. I also decided not to skimp on equipment like I normally do haha! I've never ran a bare bottom tank so I'm going to give that a shot as well. Overkill probably for this tank but here's a list of the equipment I've chosen thus far:
Reefer 170 (Black)
Sicce 2.0 return pump
Kessil A360WE
Bubble Magus Curve 5 skimmer
BRS Deluxe carbon/GFO reactor
BRS Carbon/GFO
Reef Octopus BR-70 Bipollet reactor (lmpulse buy, thought I'd give it a shot)
2 Vortech MP-10's
Neptune Apex (2016) w/ autofeeder,FMK, WxM for the MP-10's
Hanna ALK and PHOS checkers
Red Sea Coral Pro salt
I probably use the BRS 2 part and may eventually add the Neptune DOS. I'm trying to figure out my cable management at this point. I look forward to learning from all the pros on here!
Reefer 170 (Black)
Sicce 2.0 return pump
Kessil A360WE
Bubble Magus Curve 5 skimmer
BRS Deluxe carbon/GFO reactor
BRS Carbon/GFO
Reef Octopus BR-70 Bipollet reactor (lmpulse buy, thought I'd give it a shot)
2 Vortech MP-10's
Neptune Apex (2016) w/ autofeeder,FMK, WxM for the MP-10's
Hanna ALK and PHOS checkers
Red Sea Coral Pro salt
I probably use the BRS 2 part and may eventually add the Neptune DOS. I'm trying to figure out my cable management at this point. I look forward to learning from all the pros on here!
My original plan was to run the @SantaMonica RAIN2 off of my return pump. With such a small sump foot print it was finally decided to run the scrubber off it's own pump. I've had this ATS for a few months now and it is time to get it into the tank! I did need to pickup a few PVC parts to complete this job, while I was at it I bought the Hanna Alk tester.
Last weekend I noticed a small drip coming down from my reefer return standpipe. After talking to @Broadfield I drained the overflow, pulled the standpipe and made sure the o-ring was still intact. After verifying that there was no damage to the 0-ring I re-installed and turned the pump back on. The leak was minimized to a much slower drip, on Sunday I entered a ticket with Red Sea. On Monday Amanda with Red Sea emailed me, I provided pictures of the parts and the leak and she sent out a new return stand pipe. I haven't installed the new pipe yet, the leak has since gone away for now. I wanted to be pro-active and get the ticket entered and a new pipe in just in case.
For the ATS I super glued two 1/4" pieces of acrylic together as the base. I then super glued a 2" PVC table top fitting onto the acrylic. After that I used 2" PVC to a 2" PVC tee with a 1/2" threaded output. I am using a MJ1200 to run the ATS with a valve to control flow. None of the PVC fittings are glued together for easy removal.
The ATS hasn't been started yet, I will test nitrates and phosphates before I turn the scrubber on. Both of those levels are always low for me, I don't want to strip the system completely so I will monitor.
Last weekend I noticed a small drip coming down from my reefer return standpipe. After talking to @Broadfield I drained the overflow, pulled the standpipe and made sure the o-ring was still intact. After verifying that there was no damage to the 0-ring I re-installed and turned the pump back on. The leak was minimized to a much slower drip, on Sunday I entered a ticket with Red Sea. On Monday Amanda with Red Sea emailed me, I provided pictures of the parts and the leak and she sent out a new return stand pipe. I haven't installed the new pipe yet, the leak has since gone away for now. I wanted to be pro-active and get the ticket entered and a new pipe in just in case.
For the ATS I super glued two 1/4" pieces of acrylic together as the base. I then super glued a 2" PVC table top fitting onto the acrylic. After that I used 2" PVC to a 2" PVC tee with a 1/2" threaded output. I am using a MJ1200 to run the ATS with a valve to control flow. None of the PVC fittings are glued together for easy removal.
The ATS hasn't been started yet, I will test nitrates and phosphates before I turn the scrubber on. Both of those levels are always low for me, I don't want to strip the system completely so I will monitor.
Is this how everyone's tank sits above the doors? I figured the front panel would need to be supported.
Yeppers.
ecyoung
Community Member
Hi everybody! Lurked this thread for a long time, and will be setting up a Reefer 250 when I move from IL to CA in a month. I was hoping to get some feedback on the equipment I've picked out before I pull the trigger on anything.
Return pump: VarioS-4 DC return pump (1050gph, 3/4" barb output)
Skimmer: Reef Octopus 110INT 4" skimmer
Filtration: Dual GFO & Carbon reactor from BRS
Filter pump: Sicce Syncra 1.5 (357gph)
Lighting: 2x AI Hydra 26 HDs
Powerhead: 1x Vortech MP40wQD + already owned Koralia Nano (240gph)
Heater: Aqueon Pro 250W heater, will probably add Finnex Titanium Heating Bar for redundancy when I get an Apex Classic down the road
As for stocking, I'm hoping to eventually have an ocellaris pair, 1 algae blenny, 1 orange stripe goby, 1 royal gramma, 2 Banggai cardinals, 1 purple firefish, and maybe eventually a leopard wrasse depending on how things go. I'll be able to do pretty frequent water changes since I'll have access to unlimited natural saltwater from the UCSB marine lab (live 5 minutes away), so a heavy bioload isn't as big of a concern.
It's been a lot of fun watching all these reef builds and I can't wait to get started on my own
Return pump: VarioS-4 DC return pump (1050gph, 3/4" barb output)
Skimmer: Reef Octopus 110INT 4" skimmer
Filtration: Dual GFO & Carbon reactor from BRS
Filter pump: Sicce Syncra 1.5 (357gph)
Lighting: 2x AI Hydra 26 HDs
Powerhead: 1x Vortech MP40wQD + already owned Koralia Nano (240gph)
Heater: Aqueon Pro 250W heater, will probably add Finnex Titanium Heating Bar for redundancy when I get an Apex Classic down the road
As for stocking, I'm hoping to eventually have an ocellaris pair, 1 algae blenny, 1 orange stripe goby, 1 royal gramma, 2 Banggai cardinals, 1 purple firefish, and maybe eventually a leopard wrasse depending on how things go. I'll be able to do pretty frequent water changes since I'll have access to unlimited natural saltwater from the UCSB marine lab (live 5 minutes away), so a heavy bioload isn't as big of a concern.
It's been a lot of fun watching all these reef builds and I can't wait to get started on my own
Hi everybody! Lurked this thread for a long time, and will be setting up a Reefer 250 when I move from IL to CA in a month. I was hoping to get some feedback on the equipment I've picked out before I pull the trigger on anything.
Return pump: VarioS-4 DC return pump (1050gph, 3/4" barb output)
Skimmer: Reef Octopus 110INT 4" skimmer
Filtration: Dual GFO & Carbon reactor from BRS
Filter pump: Sicce Syncra 1.5 (357gph)
Lighting: 2x AI Hydra 26 HDs
Powerhead: 1x Vortech MP40wQD + already owned Koralia Nano (240gph)
Heater: Aqueon Pro 250W heater, will probably add Finnex Titanium Heating Bar for redundancy when I get an Apex Classic down the road
As for stocking, I'm hoping to eventually have an ocellaris pair, 1 algae blenny, 1 orange stripe goby, 1 royal gramma, 2 Banggai cardinals, 1 purple firefish, and maybe eventually a leopard wrasse depending on how things go. I'll be able to do pretty frequent water changes since I'll have access to unlimited natural saltwater from the UCSB marine lab (live 5 minutes away), so a heavy bioload isn't as big of a concern.
It's been a lot of fun watching all these reef builds and I can't wait to get started on my own
Looks good. I'd consider getting rid of Sicce, and running filter off of a return pump manifold. I like less components, less wires, etc.
ecyoung
Community Member
I was thinking of doing that, but I don't have any experience doing hard plumbing/making manifolds so I wasn't sure how hard it'd be.
I'm curious to know if anyone has tried these Crud Catcher or Flangans cup idea out on the Reefer? I would like nothing more than to just simply replace my filter floss every week instead of scrubbing down my filter sock.There is a company (Little Ocean) in the UK that does some custom acrylic cups I was thinking of ordering. Not sure how much shipping would be to get to the US. The item is called the Crud Catcher.
For those in South Florida, the kid's cups at Flanigan's restaurants seem to fit nicely. Just have to drill some holes on the bottom. I will be testing those cups out soon.
blkhwkz
Well-Known Member
Hi everybody! Lurked this thread for a long time, and will be setting up a Reefer 250 when I move from IL to CA in a month. I was hoping to get some feedback on the equipment I've picked out before I pull the trigger on anything.
Return pump: VarioS-4 DC return pump (1050gph, 3/4" barb output)
Skimmer: Reef Octopus 110INT 4" skimmer
Filtration: Dual GFO & Carbon reactor from BRS
Filter pump: Sicce Syncra 1.5 (357gph)
Lighting: 2x AI Hydra 26 HDs
Powerhead: 1x Vortech MP40wQD + already owned Koralia Nano (240gph)
Heater: Aqueon Pro 250W heater, will probably add Finnex Titanium Heating Bar for redundancy when I get an Apex Classic down the road
As for stocking, I'm hoping to eventually have an ocellaris pair, 1 algae blenny, 1 orange stripe goby, 1 royal gramma, 2 Banggai cardinals, 1 purple firefish, and maybe eventually a leopard wrasse depending on how things go. I'll be able to do pretty frequent water changes since I'll have access to unlimited natural saltwater from the UCSB marine lab (live 5 minutes away), so a heavy bioload isn't as big of a concern.
It's been a lot of fun watching all these reef builds and I can't wait to get started on my own
Red Sea recommends 660gph pump for the 250 so you would need the Sicce Syncra 3.5 minimum. Since the 3.5 is 660gph and you are going to have some head loss I would go with the Syncra 4 if it was me.
sithrico
Active Member
The Varios-4 is a good choice. I run that. So so quiet and has more than enough output. I leave mine on the second setting running a aquamax reactor at no loss. It has plenty room for growth still.
ecyoung
Community Member
The VarioS-4 is the return pump, it's rated at 1056gph which is more than enough I think. The Sicce 1.5 is just for running the BRS dual reactor which doesn't need as much flow. Although I'm currently working on designing a manifold so I can run the reactor off the return pump to streamline things.
Wet_Fretboards
Active Member
Emergency / backup drain. Same as the display tank.And when you guys have an external refugium, what if the return is clogged and the pump continue pumping the water in the external refugium ....
Wet_Fretboards
Active Member
When you drill the holes for the inlet and drain bulkheads, drill a third just a bit higher than the drain as a backup. This way, if the primary drain becomes clogged, the water will rise until it begins to exit the backup drain, This is the same principle used on the Reefer itself, as well as all other "reef ready" tanks. On the Reefer, it's the center pipe in the overflow box. Additionally, you can add a float switch in the refugium to shut the pump off if the level rises too high.
Wet_Fretboards
Active Member
Sure thing. Also, it's a good idea to have the backup drain pipe end ABOVE the water level in the sump. That way, the splashing gets your attention and tells you there's a problem.
sithrico
Active Member
I didn't think of the third hole as an emergency, I was just going to set up a float to my Apex to shut it off. I like the emergency and float mixture. With a leak detector as well, redundancy is covered and you should be set. Thanks for that info.
