Show Off and Discuss Your Red Sea Reefer Series

[incloud design]

Both schedule 80 and sch 40 parts work for the Red Sea tanks. Most people use sch 40 pipe and sch 80 fittings because the fittings are grey and not white. The advantage to sch 40 is that if you need an extra piece, you can usually just go to the local hardware store and buy it. Make sure you get the 1” to 3/4” mpt adapter if you are hard plumbing your return and using 1” pipe from the pump.

Thanks, that really makes thing easier. I'd like to find out what red they used as to mimic the parts for aesthetics. My sump has a couple spots where the white paint got torn and I'm planning on touching them up with Killz (White). Nothing major and at the bottom. The gray Sch. 80 doesn't look bad but for the sump area I'd like to retain the red and white apppearance. The rest is going to be in my basement and doesn't matter to me. My return is 3/4" so the NPT shouldn't be necessary. I need to put T's off the return and drain out the back of the stand to my sump.

 

[Z3speed4me]

Glad to hear they are shipping with the new sump; I am looking at a 525 in a few weeks from now. As I emailed their US contact on Monday and received the following:

"Unfortunately we cannot guarantee that the Reefer 525XL will be the newest V3 version when you place the order as of right now. I would have to suggest getting back to us when you already to place the order to see if the New V3 of that systems is being shipped."

 

[jwt1603]

I'm at the point where I'm fed up with constantly having to adjust the return valve on my 525. I've been reading the posts on here about changing it out. If I'm understanding it correctly, getting a metric ball valve is pretty close to impossible so people are using a US standard thread valve and putting extra wraps of Teflon tape on the threads to make it work. Is it really that easy?

 

[ksfulk]

I'm at the point where I'm fed up with constantly having to adjust the return valve on my 525. I've been reading the posts on here about changing it out. If I'm understanding it correctly, getting a metric ball valve is pretty close to impossible so people are using a US standard thread valve and putting extra wraps of Teflon tape on the threads to make it work. Is it really that easy?

I think generally people are converting the plumbing to standard and then using the standard sized gate valves that can be purchased at nearly any hardware store. Dont use a ball valve - you want to use a gate valve for the drain.

 

[Z3speed4me]

That is correct; and I think @Broadfield is still working on creating a standardized part for us (US) that will no longer require the tape wrapping.

 

[incloud design]

I think generally people are converting the plumbing to standard and then using the standard sized gate valves that can be purchased at nearly any hardware store. Dont use a ball valve - you want to use a gate valve for the drain.

I think the standard plumbing used alongside the Red Sea plumbing actually contrasts really well and looks very nice. I'm psyched I can use it because it will alleviate quite a bit of searching.

 

[jwt1603]

That is correct; and I think @Broadfield is still working on creating a standardized part for us (US) that will no longer require the tape wrapping.

I think generally people are converting the plumbing to standard and then using the standard sized gate valves that can be purchased at nearly any hardware store. Dont use a ball valve - you want to use a gate valve for the drain

OK, thanks. So I just disconnect the RS valve assembly, head over to Home Depot with it and get a gate valve as close to the thread size as possible? Then just add a piece of SCH 40 PVC pipe to finish it to the sump return area? If it's really that easy I'm going to be upset with myself that I didn't do it earlier.

And out of curiosity, why a gate valve instead of a ball valve? Too much back pressure with the ball valve? Or is the gate just easier to adjust?

 

[XLOR8T]

OK, thanks. So I just disconnect the RS valve assembly, head over to Home Depot with it and get a gate valve as close to the thread size as possible? Then just add a piece of SCH 40 PVC pipe to finish it to the sump return area? If it's really that easy I'm going to be upset with myself that I didn't do it earlier.

And out of curiosity, why a gate valve instead of a ball valve? Too much back pressure with the ball valve? Or is the gate just easier to adjust?

Gate valve is more adjustable in smaller increments.

I’m in the process too but from what I’ve Read earlier in this thread you will need a Red Sea return barb part that you take the barb out of and use a 1” to 3/4” MPT fitting to attach to a short piece of pvc pipe and then gate value followed by PVC into return section.

1” to 3/4” mpt fitting would be available at Home Depot. But I haven’t asked if a 1” to 3/4” bushing reducer and 3/4” nipple will do the same.

 

[incloud design]

I've yet to find gate valves at Lowe's or Home Depot around me. They barely have elbows, lol. Gone way downhill from years ago.

 

[jwt1603]

Gate valve is more adjustable in smaller increments.
I’m in the process too but from what I’ve Read earlier in this thread you will need a Red Sea return barb part that you take the barb out of and use a 1” to 3/4” MPT fitting to attach to a short piece of pvc pipe and then gate value followed by PVC into return section.
1” to 3/4” mpt fitting would be available at Home Depot. But I haven’t asked if a 1” to 3/4” bushing reducer and 3/4” nipple will do the same.

Got it on the adjustment.

Where do I get the RS return barb fitting? Would the LFS have that? Or do I need to order it from BRS or one of the other online stores?

 

[jwt1603]

I've yet to find gate valves at Lowe's or Home Depot around me. They barely have elbows, lol. Gone way downhill from years ago.

So order from BRS or Marine Depot?

 

[Hulley]

Glad to hear they are shipping with the new sump; I am looking at a 525 in a few weeks from now. As I emailed their US contact on Monday and received the following:

"Unfortunately we cannot guarantee that the Reefer 525XL will be the newest V3 version when you place the order as of right now. I would have to suggest getting back to us when you already to place the order to see if the New V3 of that systems is being shipped."

I called RS and they told me the same thing. Honestly, I was ok with the old sump design but I am happy to have the V3.

 

[incloud design]

So order from BRS or Marine Depot?

Understood, but locally not a solution in my case.

 

[kwan8911]

Got it on the adjustment.

Where do I get the RS return barb fitting? Would the LFS have that? Or do I need to order it from BRS or one of the other online stores?

I believe this is what you need
http://www.fishtanksdirect.com/red-sea-sump-pump-return-connector-16mm.aspx
Part number 42221
It should look like this

 

[incloud design]

Video here on it!

 

[jwt1603]

I believe this is what you need
http://www.fishtanksdirect.com/red-sea-sump-pump-return-connector-16mm.aspx
Part number 42221

Thanks. I'll order it. I think I need the 42222 piece for the 525.

 

[offtropic]

Thanks. I'll order it. I think I need the 42222 piece for the 525.

I posted last page on the difference between the 42221 (seen above), the connector that comes with the 425xl and the one that was sent (the 42222) when I asked for a replacement (in order to plumb the drain). 42222 on left and tank default on right:

I noticed on @SuncrestReef build thread that his return connector was also 42222 (not sure if it was the one that came with his tank or a replacement). I'm still wondering what the point of that middle piece is...some sort of converter or just an extension? If just an extension then why.

 

[jwt1603]

I posted last page on the difference between the 42221 (seen above), the connector that comes with the 425xl and the one that was sent (the 42222) when I asked for a replacement (in order to plumb the drain). 42222 on left and tank default on right:

I noticed on @SuncrestReef build thread that his return connector was also 42222 (not sure if it was the one that came with his tank or a replacement). I'm still wondering what the point of that middle piece is...some sort of converter or just an extension? If just an extension then why.

That seems odd. Maybe the extension is to calm the flow a little before it gets tot he stock valve? But if that (or any other good reason) is what it's for then the direct replacement should be the same one would think.

 

[Jason Miller]

Following, I have 3 Red Sea tanks. Very interested in everyone’s findings and builds.

 

[SuncrestReef]

I posted last page on the difference between the 42221 (seen above), the connector that comes with the 425xl and the one that was sent (the 42222) when I asked for a replacement (in order to plumb the drain). 42222 on left and tank default on right:

I noticed on @SuncrestReef build thread that his return connector was also 42222 (not sure if it was the one that came with his tank or a replacement). I'm still wondering what the point of that middle piece is...some sort of converter or just an extension? If just an extension then why.

Yes, my 425XL came standard with the 42222 connector. I ordered the tank on Feb 8, 2018, so I'm not sure when Red Sea made the change. Here's a photo from when I was still assembling the tank, with the barbed fitting removed: