Show Off and Discuss Your Red Sea Reefer Series
- Thread starter Broadfield
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CamInDFW
Community Member
On the 250 and up, there are two socks and they slide out to the left.
Butuz
Valuable Member
Thanks, I replaced the socks with those red cups, filled with marine pure and pond matrix, topped with a pre-cut floss filter. See the details under my build link below. The cups slide out easily, tight fit with Nyos 120, but no issues.
ourcoralreef
Valuable Member
I tear down when it gets unsightly
Use a bucket shopvac
I use floss in one of those filter cups pull out the used floss with some tongs and put fresh floss in every couple of days
Definitely don’t let it build up as thats going to give you too much nutrients causing excess algae and other problems
im eventually getting the klir but im waiting to see how others do it
jwt1603
Active Member
Yeah, I want to read some reviews before I buy the Klir. There's one review on BRS that says it's pretty cheaply made.
Jackooze
Active Member
Can you design one for a reefer 250 ? I will buy one.In haven't received my Klir yet, but I'm working on a 3D printed dam that will allow the 1.5" of water needed to trigger the roller motor. Its installed in my E-170 with add-on sump.
Jackooze
Active Member
Did you have to make modifications to the tray to fit ?Received my Klir Di-4 today.
1st draft centering adapter.
Fits better than I thought.
Next up, printing with the dam in place and testing the level sensor.
revnull
Active Member
Please make any inquiries in the following thread. I do not want to bloat this thread any more than.i already have.
https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/red-sea-reefer-and-klir-filter.441932/
mygsris2slo4u
Active Member
I know it’s been discussed previously, but here’s how I adapted from Red Sea to standard 1” plumbing. It’s 25mm slip x 1” spigot adapters from pvcpartsonline
Everything else is in the basement.
Everything else is in the basement.
Aquageek450
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On my reefer 250 the barb on the return is currently 5/8”. If I wanted to unscrew it and replace it with a 3/4” barn does anyone know what the thread pitch is I need on the male side of the barb? @Broadfield ?
incloud design
Active Member
For all those who have participated in my chaos and helped me through, I've got it sorted and have my system up and running for a water leak test. So far so good and I am absolutely stunned by how silent this system is. You can barely hear anything at all even with the everything off in the room, amazing. Haven't tied it in to my sump in the basement yet but am prepared and don't foresee any major problems as of yet. I'll post back in a few days with a video of the entire set up and have also set aside all progress photos to establish a nice build thread of my own. Thanks to all for the help and suggestions along the way, much appreciated.
Stock drain in use but custom drain on floor will exit out back and down to basement for my sump.
Stock drain in use but custom drain on floor will exit out back and down to basement for my sump.
wsoldier
Active Member
Great thread and only took me a few weeks to read through all 338 pages. Whew!
Question regarding return nozzle and turning off the return pump. I changed out the RSR nozzle with split loc line (single links + nozzle), but when I turn off the return pump it creates a continues siphon. I've tried adjusting it so the nozzle sits higher and breaks the siphon sooner, but it keeps sinking lower.
What are people doing to avoid this? Thanks.
Question regarding return nozzle and turning off the return pump. I changed out the RSR nozzle with split loc line (single links + nozzle), but when I turn off the return pump it creates a continues siphon. I've tried adjusting it so the nozzle sits higher and breaks the siphon sooner, but it keeps sinking lower.
What are people doing to avoid this? Thanks.
Reef Able
Active Member
I had this issue but the fix was very simple. I simply made couple of small holes on the loc lines. What that does is it sucks the air and stops the water siphoning back in the sump...Simple fix...hope it helps.
kinetic
Valuable Member
I use a VDM module with my Apex Aquacontroller Jr. to control my Reef Octopus Varios 4 return pump to a 8% flow rate. This actually stops the water in the return plumbing just enough so it doesn't siphon back. If I'm actually turning my pump all the way off for maintenance etc., I just let it siphon. The sump easily handles the overflow until the siphon breaks (as it is designed to do).
If you already have an Apex unit, it may already have the connections for a DC pump like a VarioS. But yeah, I can imagine this being a bit more involved than simply punching a few holes in the locline. Just make sure you punch the holes on the underside of the locline so water doesn't go spraying everywhere.
Aquageek450
Active Member
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I know a lot of you guys discard the stock Red Sea plumbing and hard plumb the tank. Would anyone happen to have a overflow tube assembly with the flow valve in it from a V3 sump? I’m looking for one to hack up and put a Spears valve in. Don’t want to risk it with the only one that is on my tank. I attached a picture of the one on my 250 for reference. I think a few of the tanks use this same piping.
Averhoeven
Active Member
I have one from my 750 I plumbed a couple months ago. Completely unused
Planning NY hard plumb on my xxl625 has anyone hard plumbed their 625 or 750 as they are pretty much the same set up. Want to have it plumbed diectly from my cor-20 into a carbon reactor controlled by gate valve than into a gfo reactor controlled by gate valve loop up to another gate valve for my UV steralizer and connected to my return.
I want to do this with a decent amount of unions to make taking reactors and uv out to clean replace bulbs ect. As well as a big pass. I have the idea the problem is how to fit it with the ATO still being in the tank. Otherwise I will have to put the ATO in the other cabinet and set it up through the wall.
Just want to see what other people have done any ideas problems that people have run into. I posted a picture of something similar to what I want to do except that is on a 250 rather than a 625 or 750.
I want to do this with a decent amount of unions to make taking reactors and uv out to clean replace bulbs ect. As well as a big pass. I have the idea the problem is how to fit it with the ATO still being in the tank. Otherwise I will have to put the ATO in the other cabinet and set it up through the wall.
Just want to see what other people have done any ideas problems that people have run into. I posted a picture of something similar to what I want to do except that is on a 250 rather than a 625 or 750.
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