I’m in Scotland so maybe they haven’t hit the US yet. Here is a pic with the ATO on top. I’m thinking it might be slightly larger than the last version?
Water reaching the skimmer section before the refugium?
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Water reaching the skimmer section before the refugium?
offtropic
Active Member
Visually looks a bit bigger. Does it list a volume on any of the material you received? It also looks to run full depth of the cabinet so have to take that into account if trying to run anything off the return pump (which now looks to be a straight shot back into the tank).I’m in Scotland so maybe they haven’t hit the US yet. Here is a pic with the ATO on top. I’m thinking it might be slightly larger than the last version?
I’m in Scotland so maybe they haven’t hit the US yet. Here is a pic with the ATO on top. I’m thinking it might be slightly larger than the last version?
How big is that top off reservoir?
Sorry if this has been discussed before, but how, and how often do you guys clean your overflow/plumbing? I have had my 350 up and running over 2 years and have never cleaned any of the plumbing 
That green return pipe is full of sludge, I have a ton of vermetid snails in my overflow, and there is some sort of sponge I think that comes out of the return every time I turn my return pump back on.
That green return pipe is full of sludge, I have a ton of vermetid snails in my overflow, and there is some sort of sponge I think that comes out of the return every time I turn my return pump back on.
Either would be fine though I have had several reef octos and have loved them all.
jwt1603
Active Member
The stock ATO setup worked fine on my 525 for several months while I got things settled. I replaced it because I needed more volume due to work travel and I also incorporated an auto water change which meant I needed control over the ATO water supply.
Side note, the LFS I bought the 525 from suggested using a drill bit to manually enlarge the diameter of the flow through hole in the ATO valve slightly. They said it could clog. I didn't wait to find out if it would. Took about 5 minutes to do including taking the valve apart and putting it back together. Not sure if it really helped but it didn't seem like it hurt.
SeaCreature
Community Member
Need advice regarding overflow. Just realize that my overflow was not tuned properly after reading some other threads. The water was flowing over the top of both drains. It was silent so I thought everything was correct. rrI adjusted the return pump (varios 6) and the valve so that water level is below grey drain pipe but there is still water in the overflow drain. Is this correct. If not how do I correct?
r
Need advice regarding overflow. Just realize that my overflow was not tuned properly after reading some other threads. The water was flowing over the top of both drains. It was silent so I thought everything was correct. rrI adjusted the return pump (varios 6) and the valve so that water level is below grey drain pipe but there is still water in the overflow drain. Is this correct. If not how do I correct?
r
You are correct, the middle is your emergency overflow and water should be about 1/2inch below the top of it
SeaCreature
Community Member
Thank you
Pennywise the Clown
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Has anybody had any issues with the pipework snapping at the thread? I've seen a couple of YT vids where this has happened, but it could be down to user error (over tightening etc) rather than poor quality plastic.
I'm just wondering if it is worth buying a spare pipes, just in case.
I'm just wondering if it is worth buying a spare pipes, just in case.
I think it overtightening, but plan to order a set of spares a few months before we move. I have seen them go on backorder and having to wait a month, or whatever, would not go over well at my house.
So when I setup my cor 15 I used the 1 1/4 union, reduced and 3/4 ID barb then used 1” ID vinyl tubing to connect to my return line barb on the Red Sea 525 assuming not using the two 90s would give me better flow. I’m running the pump 100% (tried with stock return output but now using vivid aquatics and flow splitter) no tangible flow difference as I didn’t have to adjust my drain valve)
The 1% feed mode still flows water to display and wanted a true stop of flow without shutting pump off. Searched and found a thread here suggesting a T and valve to have small flow from manifold into sump so at 1% the flow there would stop flow into display.
So I decided build manifold off the pump and continue with soft tubing. Quickly realized the height means I have to use a 90 elbow barb to make it work. AND now I need a new union as the other is useless.
So 2 questions.
1.Should I just go hard plumb to just below the return barb and use 4” soft tubing to mate them and also prevent vibration
If I used the provided 3/4 slip and use all 3/4 fittings. Am I making a difference in flow? How much am I losing?
I was trying to go as far as I could with 1 1/4 before reducing to the 3/4 going into the display tank to maximize flow. I don’t understand fluid dynamic well enough to know if that’s the right theory.
Thank you!!
Pics:
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
The 1% feed mode still flows water to display and wanted a true stop of flow without shutting pump off. Searched and found a thread here suggesting a T and valve to have small flow from manifold into sump so at 1% the flow there would stop flow into display.
So I decided build manifold off the pump and continue with soft tubing. Quickly realized the height means I have to use a 90 elbow barb to make it work. AND now I need a new union as the other is useless.
So 2 questions.
1.Should I just go hard plumb to just below the return barb and use 4” soft tubing to mate them and also prevent vibration
If I used the provided 3/4 slip and use all 3/4 fittings. Am I making a difference in flow? How much am I losing?
I was trying to go as far as I could with 1 1/4 before reducing to the 3/4 going into the display tank to maximize flow. I don’t understand fluid dynamic well enough to know if that’s the right theory.
Thank you!!
Pics:
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
ourcoralreef
Valuable Member
So when I setup my cor 15 I used the 1 1/4 union, reduced and 3/4 ID barb then used 1” ID vinyl tubing to connect to my return line barb on the Red Sea 525 assuming not using the two 90s would give me better flow. I’m running the pump 100% (tried with stock return output but now using vivid aquatics and flow splitter) no tangible flow difference as I didn’t have to adjust my drain valve)
The 1% feed mode still flows water to display and wanted a true stop of flow without shutting pump off. Searched and found a thread here suggesting a T and valve to have small flow from manifold into sump so at 1% the flow there would stop flow into display.
So I decided build manifold off the pump and continue with soft tubing. Quickly realized the height means I have to use a 90 elbow barb to make it work. AND now I need a new union as the other is useless.
So 2 questions.
1.Should I just go hard plumb to just below the return barb and use 4” soft tubing to mate them and also prevent vibration
If I used the provided 3/4 slip and use all 3/4 fittings. Am I making a difference in flow? How much am I losing?
I was trying to go as far as I could with 1 1/4 before reducing to the 3/4 going into the display tank to maximize flow. I don’t understand fluid dynamic well enough to know if that’s the right theory.
Thank you!!
Pics:
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
You should divide your chato and marine pure blocks as the light will grow algea on the blocks clogging it up and turning it green
I have a Reefer 250, and I would like to add a redundant return pump in case the primary fails. I was considering using the one return line to tee off both pumps with a check valve to the second pump to prevent back flow. However, BRS said that this would cause back pressure to the primary pump, so the preferred method would be to run a second return line. Any suggestions?
How have others added a secondary, back-up return pump to their Reefers?
How have others added a secondary, back-up return pump to their Reefers?
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