Smart or Stupid? Would it Work? You Decide!

Could this solution prove viable?

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MantisShrimpMan

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I think I may have devised a clever overflow solution for predrilled tanks. I’d like to know if other people believe it to be capable of working.

I’ve been tossing around the idea of getting a larger tank. I’m new to the hobby, I’ve currently got a 20G nano, and I’m working with a fairly limited budget as a college student, but still, I can’t pretend that having a larger tank doesn’t have its merits. More stocking options, more modularity due to the sump instead of the rear chamber, greater system stability due to greater volume... list goes on. So to some extent, I’m looking at finding a larger tank that I can set up minimally to start so that I stay within my budget but leave room for future expansion within the system.

This has led me to looking at premade tanks that, despite not being turnkey solutions like the expensive Waterbox and Red Sea options, have the basic drilling/overflow box installation that would be considered “reef ready”. Mainly- Seapora. The issue is, the seapora reef ready tank I’m looking at has only two holes, and the bottom is tempered, so drilling more is not an option. Since I want this tank to sit flush against the wall, running an exterior return isn’t an option, which leaves me with only one bulkhead to use for the overflow system. Under conventional wisdom, this would only leave a Durso overflow as a valid option, because it uses one bulkhead whereas the herbie and bean animal systems require two. That said, reading multiple sources online have suggested that both the herbie and the bean animal, due to their primary drain pipe employing a siphon far more significantly than a durso does, are substantially quieter, especially if you plan on running a high flow rate from tank to sump.

I certainly cannot afford a custom alternative as a means of getting a third hole to use a herbie, and given that this tank would be in a small apartment with sensitive neighbors, it would be important to me to achieve the most silent solution. So, it appeared I would be stuck with the compromises inherent in a durso system. However, after a lot of thought, I think I may have come up with a means of employing the advantages of a herbie system whilst working around the limitation of one bulkhead.

85536D93-6189-4A08-A7F7-59495CD01F18.jpeg

A traditional herbie works by adjusting the flow through the primary drain with a gate valve, and any imperfection within the adjustment or sudden unexpected fluctuations in drainage would be handled by the emergency backup. The gate valve being only applicable to the lower drainpipe. So, could you simply split the overflow following the bulkhead, and use a gate valve located underwater to achieve the same? The emergency drain line would still bypass the gate valve, and the primary drain can still employ the strong siphon, right? In my current AIO, shortly after a heavy feeding, I noticed I was having problems with flow. As it turns out, the excess mysis had clogged up my filter sponge located directly behind my overflow’s teeth, resulting in constant erratic fluctuations in the water height within my return chamber. So, while there is the obvious compromise of only having one bulkhead worth of drainage, wouldn’t the primary location an issue could occur, that being the guard over the primary drain, remain unaffected?

As of now, based on my intuition, the only significant potential compromise I am having trouble proving/disproving is the noise component. Would having the backup plumbed directly into the main drain prevent it from forming the complete siphon that keeps it silent? If so, could this issue be solved using check valves to prevent backflow that would break the siphon’s seal?

The last thing I suppose is worth mentioning is the fact that this will be an absolute pain in the butt to adjust initially, since you’d have to reach behind/into the overflow box to access the gate valve underwater. That said, after the initial adjustment, unless you switch out return pumps, I would suspect you would have little to no reason to ever have to adjust it further.

So, with all this being said, could this modification prove to be an effective version of a herbie using only one bulkhead?
 

EeyoreIsMySpiritAnimal

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So, with all this being said, could this modification prove to be an effective version of a herbie using only one bulkhead?
No. The emergency drain is just that - a separate drain that water can flow down if the primary full siphon gets blocked.
 

EeyoreIsMySpiritAnimal

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You say you need the back of the tank flush against the wall... Is there any molding at the floor? It seems that having the tank 1" away to allow for an over the back return can't really be an issue... ?

You could always run the return line over the side instead...
 

workhz

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Why not just use the two holes for drains and a flexible pipe for the return? You could go off to the side or even the back as with a stand the back is unlikely to actually sit flush. Not even sure you want it super flush with salt creep, water or even a canopy.
 

fish farmer

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Regarding noise...can you dampen the durso drain with foam pipe insulation when it drops in the sump and possibly cover the over flow area with similar foam for sound proofing?
 

Reefer Reboot

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Run it with the emergency line straight down and open.
Single Pipe Drain.jpg

Adjust the height of the pipe on the top of the tee so the water level is just below the gate valve handle.
 
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MantisShrimpMan

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Run it with the emergency line straight down and open.
Single Pipe Drain.jpg

Adjust the height of the pipe on the top of the tee so the water level is just below the gate valve handle.
So you believe this system would work provided the emergency drain was the straight up&down of the two? Interesting. I suppose the siphon should work regardless of the fact that the primary drain is now sticking out horizontally.
 
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MantisShrimpMan

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Cover your over flow and a single full siphon will work just fine granted it has a strainer on it and you do regular Maintence.. I’ve ran multiple tanks like that and never had a issue..
Can you provide a picture of what you mean? I suspect I understand, but still, I’d prefer to clarify.
 
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MantisShrimpMan

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No. The emergency drain is just that - a separate drain that water can flow down if the primary full siphon gets blocked.
That’s the point I was trying to make though. Of all the positions in this system, the most likely to get clogged is the strainer head itself, by far. If something moves past the strainer, and the gate valve, how can it feasibly THEN proceed to clog up the pipe? So sure, there is a point where the two lines meet up, meaning this is more like 1.5 instead of 2 separate drains.

so my main concern is this: it is my understanding that the cause of noise would be water interrupting a siphon and creating a gurgling effect. I have no clue if that’s actually the reason why- again, I’m not experienced here. But if that were the exact explanation, would having the two pipes link up mean that air that enters through the emergency drain could disrupt the siphon occurring in the primary drain?

just one followup question in general: in a normal herbie system, why DOESNT the emergency overflow always make noise? After all, the diagrams I’ve seen online show the pipe ending 0.5” below the waterline, so water should still be trickling down it the whole time and making noise, yes?
 

Reefer Reboot

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So you believe this sister would work provided the emergency drain was the straight up&down of the two? Interesting. I suppose the siphon should work regardless of the fact that the primary drain is now sticking out horizontally.
This would be noisy as the pipe running straight down would not be filled with water, thus giving you the gurgle sound.
 

fish farmer

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This would be noisy as the pipe running straight down would not be filled with water, thus giving you the gurgle sound.
Does your design actually siphon? Would the open emergency pipe drawing air in not create a full siphon? Does valving just accomplish adjustments to the flow so it still has an emergency drain?
 

EeyoreIsMySpiritAnimal

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That’s the point I was trying to make though. Of all the positions in this system, the most likely to get clogged is the strainer head itself, by far. If something moves past the strainer, and the gate valve, how can it feasibly THEN proceed to clog up the pipe? So sure, there is a point where the two lines meet up, meaning this is more like 1.5 instead of 2 separate drains.

so my main concern is this: it is my understanding that the cause of noise would be water interrupting a siphon and creating a gurgling effect. I have no clue if that’s actually the reason why- again, I’m not experienced here. But if that were the exact explanation, would having the two pipes link up mean that air that enters through the emergency drain could disrupt the siphon occurring in the primary drain?

just one followup question in general: in a normal herbie system, why DOESNT the emergency overflow always make noise? After all, the diagrams I’ve seen online show the pipe ending 0.5” below the waterline, so water should still be trickling down it the whole time and making noise, yes?
With the Herbie design, you adjust the gate valve on the primary drain so that just barely a trickle goes down the emergency pipe. It's definitely not always submerged 1/2 an inch.
 

EeyoreIsMySpiritAnimal

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With the Herbie design, you adjust the gate valve on the primary drain so that just barely a trickle goes down the emergency pipe. It's definitely not always submerged 1/2 an inch.
The way mine is set up, if/when I hear ANY noise from my overflow, then I know something is out of adjustment. Whether you keep the emergency drain with a tiny trickle or just a smidge above the water line doesn't matter.
 

Soren

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I don't think it works per your original idea, since there would be significant suction on the taller pipe when "siphon" is achieved on the lower strainer inlet. This would probably increase slurping sounds rather than help silence it.

The function of the separate pipes is distinct:
1) Primary siphon drain: full siphon allows for significant and silent drain flow, but has to be balanced for flow rates (and flow rate changes), commonly has a valve for balancing flow rates for quietest operation [when used in conjunction with other drain(s)], full siphon flow rate is maximum draining capacity for this drain
2) Secondary drain: used as a trickle-flow to help balance flow variations for the primary siphon and provides "emergency" drain capabilities in some worst-case scenarios (albeit becoming more noisy, which can be a nice alarm for issues), full siphon flow rate (which could be reached in emergency) is maximum draining capacity for this drain as well
3) Third emergency drain: used only for emergencies, this drain typically carries no flow under normal circumstances and only provides additional draining capacity in the even of another drain becoming restricted or return flow rate exceeds maximum draining capacity of the other drains, this drain also has maximum draining capacity at full-siphon (which should hopefully never be reached with redundant draining capacity)

If you use just one full-siphon drain with a strainer, as mentioned by @Troylee , it can work but there is a risk that, should the drain ever become restricted, return flow rate can exceed draining capacity and the overflow can flood. The risk management is up to you.

It is a much safer system if you utilize at least 1) and 2) above, if not all 3, as you have back-up drain capacity in the event of restriction in a primary drain.

There are lots of good answers above (which I think align with what I am iterating here). Separating returns to a different hole (even if you need to have it drilled) or using over-the-top returns seems to be your best option in order to keep both drain holes available for draining/overflow. If return rate is minimized with drain capacity maximized, the worst case is limited turn-over rate in your system. If drain capacity is minimized and return rate is maximized, overflow and room damage are potential hazard.
 

EeyoreIsMySpiritAnimal

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That’s the point I was trying to make though. Of all the positions in this system, the most likely to get clogged is the strainer head itself, by far. If something moves past the strainer, and the gate valve, how can it feasibly THEN proceed to clog up the pipe? So sure, there is a point where the two lines meet up, meaning this is more like 1.5 instead of 2 separate drains.

so my main concern is this: it is my understanding that the cause of noise would be water interrupting a siphon and creating a gurgling effect. I have no clue if that’s actually the reason why- again, I’m not experienced here. But if that were the exact explanation, would having the two pipes link up mean that air that enters through the emergency drain could disrupt the siphon occurring in the primary drain?

just one followup question in general: in a normal herbie system, why DOESNT the emergency overflow always make noise? After all, the diagrams I’ve seen online show the pipe ending 0.5” below the waterline, so water should still be trickling down it the whole time and making noise, yes?
Also, in all the years people have been reefing, if this idea worked, it would already be widely used...
 

Clarkjw2002

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As has been mentioned above, your design will not give you the quiet full siphon you are looking for unless you raised the level such that both pipes are at full siphon. It is essentially one pipe with two openings. Your emergency would suck air even if no water was going down it because of the Venturi effect from the water going down the main pipe.

So might as well have one pipe.

Use both holes for returns and devote your energy to figuring out a return line over the top.
 

workhz

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Is this a rental? Doesn’t take much to notch out a bit of drywall as a worst (actually relatively easy) option.
 
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