Somewhat Unique RedSea Reefer 525 G2+ Build

Looks good. You will eventually learn that it's better to just leave it alone. Dinos takes a little elbow grease and I'm glad that you were able to get rid of them. The Pods helped a lot I bet. What is the school of blue fish? Do they actively school up and roam the tank? I love my white Tail! He's quite the character. What kind of Wrasse did you do with?
 
Looks good. You will eventually learn that it's better to just leave it alone. Dinos takes a little elbow grease and I'm glad that you were able to get rid of them. The Pods helped a lot I bet. What is the school of blue fish? Do they actively school up and roam the tank? I love my white Tail! He's quite the character. What kind of Wrasse did you do with?
Thankfully I haven't had any major outbreak of uglies for three months now but the close to three month battle with dinos, cyano, and GHA from month 3-5 were rough! I recently had large patches green algae growing back in the rock but I didn't do anything and my snails and urchin have brought it under control.

The blue fish are blue-green chromis. I have 11 of them. I started with 6 and then added another 5 a month later. The chromis usually are hanging out in a group and do not fight each other since male Bimac anthia chases the chromis around every so often. I believe this keeps the chromis from turning on each other since they are safer in a group. The chromis are great since they swim at the front of the glass all day long which helps bring out the other fish.

The chromis all went through a quarantine of copper and metro. The first batch I had a 50% survival rate in QT. The second batch I had 100% survival. I believe the increased survival was due to maturity of my QT setup, lower fish load I. That round of QT, and/or luck.
 
It has been a while since I updated this tank thread. I will do a comprehensive update later this weekend and include some pictures. Overall, things are going well. Coraline started appearing everywhere which is a good sign. It started ans a few dots ant first and within a month started appearing on the power head, drag racks, and rock work.

For recording keeping purposes I wanted to repost some commentary I wrote in response to one of the many dino outbreak threads in February 2024. For those starting a new tank and battling the ugly stage, keep at it! Eventually the ugly stage will end and you won't have much to do other than feed the fish, scrape the glass every few days, and do a water change every week or two!

"I feel your pain. I started my tank around the same time as you and fought a massive outbreak of dinos (all over the rock and thick layer of growth all over the sand bed) for 5 weeks starting in late October. I did almost everything commonly recommended. I believe the most important were running UV, dosing bacteria and silicate every day, and scrubbing the rocks and cleaning the sand every few days. Siphoning out the top layer of sand and rinsing it in saltwater multiple times until it runs relatively clear is important since that exports a lot of the dinos quickly. I probably had to do this siphoning and rinsing 8+ times during the height of the Dinos war. I did so with tap water but if I had to do it again I with salt water since that has a better chance of preserving more of the microbiome. Before adding the sand back into the tank I poured into the sand Microbacter7, Dr. Tim's Waste Away, or the Zeovit bacteria supplement (I had all three on hand).

Dinos decimated my copepod population. Before they were swarming all over my glass, even with limited Dino's now the pod population has not returned to the prior levels but that may be because my 4 wrasse keeping the pod population in check. Most of my snails died including the Nassarius which lived in the sand. I added Trochus during the Dino outbreak and some died and or spasmed when they touched the sand likely due to the Dino toxins. I had a few tester SPS and montis and they all slowly bleached then died. The only coral which survived are my torches and hammers and single mushroom coral. No fish died thankfully. I also had a strawberry conch which hid all day long. Once Dinos dissipated it started moving around a lot more. Most of my hermit crab population died but some survived. Urchins did fine since they seemed to just avoid Dino areas on the rock. I noticed that after a sandbed rinse and water change, my surviving snails and crabs would instantly appear and be much more active.

I have been mostly Dino free for the last two months or so. Even now though I see some growing on top of GHA. Those areas my CUC avoids like the plague. I tried putting three snails in an area with a mix of GHA + Dinos today. One snail would just detach from the rock and let the powerhead blow him to the sand. The other two got out of the area as fast as they could crawl.

Given my battle with dinos I have decided to only add soft corals for now. My tank is more stable (now dealing with GHA) but has a ways to go. Good luck with your Dino battle. Looking at your setup, I suggest rinsing out the top layer of sand. Then dose bacteria and silicate daily until the dinos get out competed. After my dinos got under control, I was hit by a cyano outbreak (more scrubbing of rock and rinsing the sand) which went away after two week, and then GHA took over. Since Dino's aren't killing my livestock anymore, I have been adding CUC which has done a great job at suppressing the GHA."
 
Now that the tank is relatively stabilized I have started to add coral. The coral largely consists of hammers, frogspawn and torches with a few goniopora, mushrooms, favia, and a handful of SPS. Of the frags in my tank 80% have been in there for only a few weeks. Of the SPS all but two frags have been in for less than a day. A third of the euphillia have been in the tank for less than a day as well.

I made the mistake of putting in SPS frags too early and they all died during the various battles with uglies. I hope the recent additions live!

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My tank has been running for one year now. I recently dealt with an outbreak of greenish dinos and algae on my sand. I siphoned out the top layer, rinsed it with tap water multiple times, RODI (2x) and saltwater (2x) and added microbe life and silicate to the bucket and put it back junk the tank. One day later the sand looks good still.

Earlier in the week the sensor on the RedSea ATO died so I had to purchase a new sensor. I have added some SPS to the tank in the last month but they are small frags so barely show up in the photo.

Tank is relatively stable nowadays. My Biota Yellow Tang is 9 months old now and is a big girl. The Blue Star Leopard Wrasse became an adult and is a mix of purple and turquoise. The 11 Chromis added 9 months or so ago are doing great---zero deaths amongst them so far!

I hope to get some coral if there are good Labor Day sales. I hope everyone else is enjoying the last week of summer!

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Tanks looking good! Stories like yours really reinforce the power of wet from the ocean live rock and live sand. My two most recent tanks have used KPaquatics live rock and I’ve never had Dino’s or cyano or GHA.
 
Tanks looking good! Stories like yours really reinforce the power of wet from the ocean live rock and live sand. My two most recent tanks have used KPaquatics live rock and I’ve never had Dino’s or cyano or GHA.
Yeah, I do not plan to start any new tank without some sort of live rock or live sand, either from an existing tank or the ocean.
 
Very nice setup. How you enjoying the 525?
The 525 has been operating without any notable issues. I sort of wish I got something bigger but I believe this is a common feeling amongst reef keepers!
 
T
The 525 has been operating without any notable issues. I sort of wish I got something bigger but I believe this is a common feeling amongst reef keepers!
The 525 is probably the biggest size I want to upgrade too. Tossing between the 425 and 525. But I like the length on 525.
 
T

The 525 is probably the biggest size I want to upgrade too. Tossing between the 425 and 525. But I like the length on 525.
This is my first tank and I was in the same position as you. I originally planned to get the 425 but am really glad I got the 525. The additional cost is not much in the grand scheme but you have a lot more flexibility to aquascape and can get some of the larger fish due to the 5" length. I prefer to get more small and medium size fish. With the 5" they have a lot of swim space so the tank is very peaceful.

The larger sump on the 525 allows you to fit the Reefmat 1200 (less frequent roll change) as well as a large protein skimmer (useful for the aeration and keeping pH more elevated).
 
Any updates on your tank?
 
I see they are the hms mounts, but did you need to extend them to fit the entire width of your tank?
Yes, I have two HMS mounts that are connected to the back of the tank. The mounts have arms that are long enough to extend to the very front. I actually ended up cutting a few inches off the length of the arm extensions so that there is less sticking out the back side of the tank. This can be done easily with either a power saw or by hand with a hacksaw (just be sure to use a hack saw miter box which can be purchased at Home Depot for very cheap). A hacksaw is very useful to have around since that or my chop saw is what I use when I cut PVC piping since it is fast and clean.
 
Any updates on your tank?
The tank is dealing with an annoying outbreak of some sort of black turf algae. I am considering replacing all the rockwork with live rock. I will post some pics of the before and after but it looks like it will take me a few months to get the live want I am looking at (Australian live rock from Eric Cohen at TankStop is what I am considering).
 
I redid my aquascape with Australian live rock from Eric Cohen at tankstop.com. This is the second anniversary of my first tank. After two years I wanted to start over and hopefully make less mistakes this time around. Prior to this update, I hadn’t made any major changes for half a year.

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I am transitioning to a SPS dominant tank, which means I left most of my non-SPS coral behind.l

A few things to note:

1. Process took 10 hours over the course of two days. I expoxy’d the large pieces first day, cured overnight, then added the aquascape to my RedSea 525 the next day.

2. Aquascape consists of 5 larger structures built with expory/superglue. Then 3-5 inch pieces are layered throughout without glue. Any portion of the aquascape can be easily rearranged or pulled out for maintenance.

3. Aquascape built from 36 pounds of Australian live rock. Several of the larger pieces are sitting on top of 3/4” pieces of flat Marco rock to give the aquascape more elevation.

4. The rockscape is lower than my prior Marco rock aquascape since (1) I had less rock to work with (budget issue), (2) I wanted to limit time spent aquascaping in the open air, and (3) it was challenging to aquascape underwater in the large plastic bins I used. To compensate for the lower aquascape, I moved my MP40s down a few inches.

5. I used 3.5 sticks of the DD aquarium epoxy. This is absolutely terrible epoxy since it starts dissolving as soon as it hits the water, takes very long to cure, and does not form a strong bond after 18 hours. I had to epoxy some connections 3-4 times since the bodnsnkept falling apart. I ended up having to reinforce most of the joints with superglue. Next time I would buy the Tunze epoxy which even is double the price but sets within minutes, pollutes the water a lot less, and has a solid end bond. The 3.5 sticks of DD epoxy (huge headache) was equivalent to 1 stick of Tunze epoxy (smooth process). The water got very polluted after the initial round of epoxy so I ended up doing a water change. When I cleaned up the black plastic bins later, small specs of expoxy settled all over the bottom (and some wall areas) of the bin. Needless to say I do not recommend the DD epoxy!

6. I also used ten 2 oz tubes of superglue. I would have liked to use more but ran out.

7. I ended up with only 4 pounds 3 ounces of small rubble—far less than what I expected. Most of the breakage experienced during shipping was fixed with epoxy and superglue. . I put the rubble into my sump and will attach a few small pieces to the aquascape once I refresh my superglue supply.

Major advantages of the Australian live rock:

1. Incredibly beautiful rock! My wife and kids love the new look!

2. Super high porosity since it largely consists of dead coral skeleton rather than rock mined from land. Rock is very light so it is much less cumbersome to move in/out of tank and to re-adjust in-tank.

3. Structure of rocks makes it very easy to jigsaw together into stable structures. In the aquascape shown, I only have 6-7 major joints made with expoxy/superglue. Most of the pieces are stacked and/or jigsawed. You cannot jigsaw stable structures with Marco rock which means you have to rely heavily in epoxy/glue/mortar when using dry rock.

4. The coral skeleton structure allows you to add frag plugs to the structure without superglue. Half of the frags in the aquascape were simply jammed into one of the numerous small openings available. This allows for easy movement of frags around the tank. I tried multiple times to drill holes into my old Marco rock and gave up since it took forever and was difficult to do without breaking the rock itself.

Below are pictures of the end result! I could not be happier.
 
Your previous tank was beautiful. Good luck with the new SPS system. 🙂
 
Added a new torch. With my prior rock work the two MP40s running at 85% generated a little too much flow for torches on the sand bed. This resulted in all my torches slowly dieing over time.

Interestingly, the dense branching of the Australian live rock seems to dissipate flow more aggressively which results in lower flow on the sand bed. I did not expect this especially because that I have moved the MP40s down 2 inches to account for the lower rock scape. If this torch can survive that will allow me to add a few torches to the display. My wife will be happy since torches are her favorite coral.

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I recently joined the most masochistic club in reef keeping: The Green RRC Rainbow Splice Club!

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Even though the drag is all green, the shade of green and very bright flourescence make this a very nice green coral to have. Maybe I will luck out and the frag will develop some red coloration 😎
 

WHAT’S THE HARDEST PART OF REEFING TO EXPLAIN TO A NON-REEFER?

  • Why a tiny coral frag can cost that much

    Votes: 1 10.0%
  • Why I spend time testing and adjusting water

    Votes: 3 30.0%
  • Why the fish I want might not fit my tank

    Votes: 3 30.0%
  • Why I have buckets, tubing, and salt around the house

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • Why corals are living animals, not decorations

    Votes: 2 20.0%
  • How much time and attention a reef takes

    Votes: 2 20.0%
  • The difference between freshwater and saltwater creatures

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • I’ve stopped trying to explain

    Votes: 4 40.0%
  • Other (Post in the comments)

    Votes: 0 0.0%
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