Hello Reefers,
Below is an email from SpectraPure that was sent upon request from a girl (mittens) on my local forum.
I’ve never flushed any of my RODI filters before installing. After installation, I’ll typically bleed off the TDS creep for the first 90 seconds or two minutes, but have never flushed Carbon blocks or RO Membranes beforehand. I flush the RO Membrane frequently, but never before I install it.
What kind of “preservatives” or other undesirable contaminates (if any) could we introduce into the system if these filters aren’t flushed beforehand?
SpecrtaPure email below:
Flushing Filters
Some filters should be flushed when first installed. “Flushing” is no more complicated than running water through the filter without delivering the flush water to other stages in your water purification system.
Hint: An easy way to flush new filters is to temporarily install it as the final stage in your system and allow the flush water to go to a drain.
Sediment Filters No need to flush sediment filters unless otherwise specified on the filter label.
Carbon Blocks: Manufacturers recommend flushing carbon block cartridges for at least 10 minutes.
RO Membranes: Manufacturers recommend flushing at least 5 gallons of water through new dry RO membranes to remove preservatives before using the product water. Don’t run flush water through later stages in your system, run it all down the drain. SpectraSelect Membranes don’t need to be flushed since they already have been flushed.
DI Resin: SEE BELOW vvvv (replacement of filters)
Replacement of filters
Put the sediment and carbon in first. Leave DI housing(s) empty. Run a gallon of water through the empty DI housing(s). Add the MegaMaxCap cartridge. Run it until the TDS IN on the right meter reads 0. Add the Enduro DI, Run it until the TDS OUT on the right meter reads 0. Once complete your system is good to go.
A Sediment/Carbon Filter will usually last approx. 4-6 months, depending on the quality of the tap water and quantity of water being produced. The best way to determine when your Sediment/Carbon Prefilter needs replacement is to monitor the Pressure Gauge. When you have a drop in pressure of 15-20% below your normal gauge pressure, replace the filter. To verify this, run water through the system without the filter in its housing. If the pressure returns to your normal house pressure without the filter, you will know the filter you just took out was plugged up and causing the pressure drop.
Sediment: The best way to know when the sediment is in need of replacement is by using the pressure gauge, when pressure drops your sediment filter is going bad. Replace it when you get a 15% pressure drop! (example; I have 60 PSI, after much use my PSI is now 48 PSI. That’s a 20% pressure drops! Your flow rate will slow down and your carbon will start doing some heavy work by taking our sediment.
Carbon: Use our Chlorine Test Kit (https://spectrapure.com/Total-Chlorine-Test-Kit-w-10-tablets&filter_name=chlroine) to test the chlorine levels going to your membrane. This test will tell you when to change your carbon block ( or you can change it every 6 months) but by using this Chlorine test kit, you can get an estimate of how long your carbons will last with your water. If you’re on a well, you probably don’t have much or any chlorine and can get a longer life of the carbon blocks. If you’re on city water then chlorine levels can be between .5 to 4.0 which will vary if the life of your carbon block.
Use these two methods for pre-filters and you’ll be set. After 1700 gallons of processed water (6800 total gallons through the system), the prefilters could be plugging up.
Membrane: Replace the membrane when rejection rate is less than 96% or if production comes to a halt. Use the calculator below (Membrane Rejection Calc) to figure out your rejection!
**Rule of thumb with the MaxCap and Silicabuster(MegaMaxCap and Enduro) (this will save you $$$ too)**
Once you replace your filters, keep an eye on the LEFT TDS METER - OUT reading and your RIGHT TDS METER - IN reading. This is essentially your POST membrane RO water and the MegaMaxCap DI ppm going into your Enduro DI.
Once your RIGHT TDS METER – IN reading is HALF of your LEFT TDS METER - OUT reading, you can replace the MegaMaxCap DI but your Enduro should still be putting out 0ppm water. You can essentially change the MegaMaxCap DI 2-3 times before needing to change your Enduro
.
Example; your LEFT TDS METER - OUT reading is 10. Once your RIGHT TDS METER - IN shows 5, change the MegaMaxCap. You should be able to do this 2-3 times before needing to change the Enduro.
——————————————————
Let me know if you’ve experienced any undesirable issues in your reef from not flushing your RODI filters prior to installation.
Below is an email from SpectraPure that was sent upon request from a girl (mittens) on my local forum.
I’ve never flushed any of my RODI filters before installing. After installation, I’ll typically bleed off the TDS creep for the first 90 seconds or two minutes, but have never flushed Carbon blocks or RO Membranes beforehand. I flush the RO Membrane frequently, but never before I install it.
What kind of “preservatives” or other undesirable contaminates (if any) could we introduce into the system if these filters aren’t flushed beforehand?
SpecrtaPure email below:
Flushing Filters
Some filters should be flushed when first installed. “Flushing” is no more complicated than running water through the filter without delivering the flush water to other stages in your water purification system.
Hint: An easy way to flush new filters is to temporarily install it as the final stage in your system and allow the flush water to go to a drain.
Sediment Filters No need to flush sediment filters unless otherwise specified on the filter label.
Carbon Blocks: Manufacturers recommend flushing carbon block cartridges for at least 10 minutes.
RO Membranes: Manufacturers recommend flushing at least 5 gallons of water through new dry RO membranes to remove preservatives before using the product water. Don’t run flush water through later stages in your system, run it all down the drain. SpectraSelect Membranes don’t need to be flushed since they already have been flushed.
DI Resin: SEE BELOW vvvv (replacement of filters)
Replacement of filters
Put the sediment and carbon in first. Leave DI housing(s) empty. Run a gallon of water through the empty DI housing(s). Add the MegaMaxCap cartridge. Run it until the TDS IN on the right meter reads 0. Add the Enduro DI, Run it until the TDS OUT on the right meter reads 0. Once complete your system is good to go.
A Sediment/Carbon Filter will usually last approx. 4-6 months, depending on the quality of the tap water and quantity of water being produced. The best way to determine when your Sediment/Carbon Prefilter needs replacement is to monitor the Pressure Gauge. When you have a drop in pressure of 15-20% below your normal gauge pressure, replace the filter. To verify this, run water through the system without the filter in its housing. If the pressure returns to your normal house pressure without the filter, you will know the filter you just took out was plugged up and causing the pressure drop.
Sediment: The best way to know when the sediment is in need of replacement is by using the pressure gauge, when pressure drops your sediment filter is going bad. Replace it when you get a 15% pressure drop! (example; I have 60 PSI, after much use my PSI is now 48 PSI. That’s a 20% pressure drops! Your flow rate will slow down and your carbon will start doing some heavy work by taking our sediment.
Carbon: Use our Chlorine Test Kit (https://spectrapure.com/Total-Chlorine-Test-Kit-w-10-tablets&filter_name=chlroine) to test the chlorine levels going to your membrane. This test will tell you when to change your carbon block ( or you can change it every 6 months) but by using this Chlorine test kit, you can get an estimate of how long your carbons will last with your water. If you’re on a well, you probably don’t have much or any chlorine and can get a longer life of the carbon blocks. If you’re on city water then chlorine levels can be between .5 to 4.0 which will vary if the life of your carbon block.
Use these two methods for pre-filters and you’ll be set. After 1700 gallons of processed water (6800 total gallons through the system), the prefilters could be plugging up.
Membrane: Replace the membrane when rejection rate is less than 96% or if production comes to a halt. Use the calculator below (Membrane Rejection Calc) to figure out your rejection!
**Rule of thumb with the MaxCap and Silicabuster(MegaMaxCap and Enduro) (this will save you $$$ too)**
Once you replace your filters, keep an eye on the LEFT TDS METER - OUT reading and your RIGHT TDS METER - IN reading. This is essentially your POST membrane RO water and the MegaMaxCap DI ppm going into your Enduro DI.
Once your RIGHT TDS METER – IN reading is HALF of your LEFT TDS METER - OUT reading, you can replace the MegaMaxCap DI but your Enduro should still be putting out 0ppm water. You can essentially change the MegaMaxCap DI 2-3 times before needing to change your Enduro
.
Example; your LEFT TDS METER - OUT reading is 10. Once your RIGHT TDS METER - IN shows 5, change the MegaMaxCap. You should be able to do this 2-3 times before needing to change the Enduro.
——————————————————
Let me know if you’ve experienced any undesirable issues in your reef from not flushing your RODI filters prior to installation.
