SPS Issues. Black bugs? Halp!

[LunchboLobster]

My 120g tank is around 9 months old (still new, still in ugly phase here and there). I've got around 30 SPS frags, and I'd say all but 1 or 2 have done really well the past 6 months. Colors aren't great yet, but I've seen growth on nearly all frags. All of a sudden the past couple weeks, a few frags have taken a down turn. I can't tell if I have separate issues, or 1 issue. I've attached pics of all the problem frags. On the garf bonsai I can definitely see these black specks, but they don't appear to move much? On the other 4 frags I think what really concerns me is these were some of the fastest growing and most colorful frags. So I'm worried this is the start of something worse. I've noticed polyp retraction on about 50% of my other frags as well. But the majority of my frags still seem decently happy at the moment (anacropora, digitatas, birdsnest, other acro's). I dose Bionic 2 part for Alk and Cal, they've been rock steady (testing with Trident, calibrated often with Hannah and Salifert). Running carbon and skimmer. Daily 1% water changes. I just performed my first ICP test (attached) plan to start moonshiners dosing soon. The only thing wildly off is Lithium. My phosphates and nitrates have been pretty low, because I'm growing a good amount of hair algae. Appreciate any ideas/help.

 

[Dburr1014]

My 120g tank is around 9 months old (still new, still in ugly phase here and there). I've got around 30 SPS frags, and I'd say all but 1 or 2 have done really well the past 6 months. Colors aren't great yet, but I've seen growth on nearly all frags. All of a sudden the past couple weeks, a few frags have taken a down turn. I can't tell if I have separate issues, or 1 issue. I've attached pics of all the problem frags. On the garf bonsai I can definitely see these black specks, but they don't appear to move much? On the other 4 frags I think what really concerns me is these were some of the fastest growing and most colorful frags. So I'm worried this is the start of something worse. I've noticed polyp retraction on about 50% of my other frags as well. But the majority of my frags still seem decently happy at the moment (anacropora, digitatas, birdsnest, other acro's). I dose Bionic 2 part for Alk and Cal, they've been rock steady (testing with Trident, calibrated often with Hannah and Salifert). Running carbon and skimmer. Daily 1% water changes. I just performed my first ICP test (attached) plan to start moonshiners dosing soon. The only thing wildly off is Lithium. My phosphates and nitrates have been pretty low, because I'm growing a good amount of hair algae. Appreciate any ideas/help.

Sorry nobody answered you but, the search button is your best friend here.
Bunch of folks have/are going though this sadly and you can find some info but it's hard in this situation. It seems solutions sporadic.
It seems your tank is young and you may have to dip all colonies weekly. Prevention will be your best solution going forward. QT from now on.

 

[Biff0rz]

Bugs or pods on acros are definitely not good. However, the pictures make it tough to clearly identify those spots. I think a microscope would be really helpful. You can check out my post about interceptor, which is a treatment for red, white, and black bugs, right here.

On the flip side, 9 months is still pretty new for SPS, especially if you're dealing with parameter and bacteria fluctuations (the uglies). Your best approach is to maintain as much stability in the tank as you can. I'm not sure if interceptor is the right choice for your situation since you're not at a stable point yet; it could create more instability in the tank while trying to eliminate the bugs...it's a tricky situation, unfortunately.

 

[SeaDweller]

I'd say your source water quality is no good, judging by the pics you posted. Those pieces in question look really unhealthy, and that RP is not browned out to me, looks dead in that pic. Do you have pics of your other pieces?

whens the last time you changed filters, etc.

 

[Dburr1014]

I must admit the first time I answered I didn't really look at the pictures.
So I downloaded your results.

First question, why is you salanity so low?
My SPS get angry down that low. That is probably #1 reason.

Second question, do you always run phosphate that low?
Some people do, some don't, just asking. With it that low and nitrate low, some sps get hungry and start to die. My system runs 0 nitrate but 0.1 phosphate and is happy.

 

[LunchboLobster]

I'd say your source water quality is no good, judging by the pics you posted. Those pieces in question look really unhealthy, and that RP is not browned out to me, looks dead in that pic. Do you have pics of your other pieces?

whens the last time you changed filters, etc.

Can you elaborate on source water quality, what do you mean? I posted the results from recent ICP test, the tank water chemistry and RO top off water both look roughly in bounds.

Nearly all ~30 frags were growing and seemingly healthy for the past 4-5 months, so I don't think my water quality was an issue, at least at that point in time. Something has changed and that's what I'm trying to figure out.

Pics of healthy corals attached. All of these have been in the tank at least 3-4 months and have shown growth.

 

[LunchboLobster]

I must admit the first time I answered I didn't really look at the pictures.
So I downloaded your results.

First question, why is you salanity so low?
My SPS get angry down that low. That is probably #1 reason.

Second question, do you always run phosphate that low?
Some people do, some don't, just asking. With it that low and nitrate low, some sps get hungry and start to die. My system runs 0 nitrate but 0.1 phosphate and is happy.

Thank you, I've always kept salinity in the 1.024-1.025 range, I didn't really think that qualified as low. Should I raise up to 1.026?

Phosphate and nitrate have definitely been on the lower end and my sps colors have been more pale/pastel because of it. I've tried to raise them both, but am quickly met with more nuisance algae. I figured I needed to give the tank more time to mature before I can raise them without blowing up the tank with algae.

 

[SeaDweller]

Can you elaborate on source water quality, what do you mean? I posted the results from recent ICP test, the tank water chemistry and RO top off water both look roughly in bounds.

Nearly all ~30 frags were growing and seemingly healthy for the past 4-5 months, so I don't think my water quality was an issue, at least at that point in time. Something has changed and that's what I'm trying to figure out.

Pics of healthy corals attached. All of these have been in the tank at least 3-4 months and have shown growth.

pastel-y colors are generally associated with low N and P. not necessarily a bad thing, but in your case, it's a double edged sword: you need it but it fuels the nuisance algae problems.

what i mean by your source water quality is how clean (0 TDS) is your water you're using for your tank? How often do you change the media? Is your resin depleted? time to change the membranes? With algae problems like that, I'd link it to your water you're using for your tank.

 

[LunchboLobster]

pastel-y colors are generally associated with low N and P. not necessarily a bad thing, but in your case, it's a double edged sword: you need it but it fuels the nuisance algae problems.

what i mean by your source water quality is how clean (0 TDS) is your water you're using for your tank? How often do you change the media? Is your resin depleted? time to change the membranes? With algae problems like that, I'd link it to your water you're using for your tank.

Ahh gotcha, thanks for explaining. My meter it reading 2 TDS, however the DI resin is probably ~2-3 years old. However on the ICP test (which tested my RO water too), the reading for Silicon was 232 µg/l. Looking that up, it didn't seem that level was necessarily too bad.

 

[SeaDweller]

Ahh gotcha, thanks for explaining. My meter it reading 2 TDS, however the DI resin is probably ~2-3 years old. However on the ICP test (which tested my RO water too), the reading for Silicon was 232 µg/l. Looking that up, it didn't seem that level was necessarily too bad.

bingo.

You need to change what needs to be changed for your RODI. 2 TDS could be nothing or could be the death of your tank.

People hear hoof beats and think zebras, when in reality it's a horse's hoof beat. Look for easy answers, not exotic ones (black bugs in your case).

 

[LunchboLobster]

bingo.

You need to change what needs to be changed for your RODI. 2 TDS could be nothing or could be the death of your tank.

People hear hoof beats and think zebras, when in reality it's a horse's hoof beat. Look for easy answers, not exotic ones (black bugs in your case).

Hmm ok. Well that's certainly easier and less risky than dosing interceptor ha. Appreciate it, I'll get new filters ordered.

 

[Biff0rz]

Ahh gotcha, thanks for explaining. My meter it reading 2 TDS, however the DI resin is probably ~2-3 years old. However on the ICP test (which tested my RO water too), the reading for Silicon was 232 µg/l. Looking that up, it didn't seem that level was necessarily too bad.

Di resin is 2-3 YEARS old? Omg. I change mine like every 3-6mo easily.

 

[Dburr1014]

My mixed bed is probably 5 or 6 years old

 

[Troylee]

My mixed bed is probably 5 or 6 years old

Mine lasts 3 months at best lol.. Vegas water is nasty 575 tds

 

[SeaDweller]

My mixed bed is probably 5 or 6 years old

uhm... gross?

 

[Dburr1014]

Mine lasts 3 months at best lol.. Vegas water is nasty 575 tds

uhm... gross?

My incoming TDS is 42~48 depending on time of year.
Not gross. Some context: I also have anion/cation seperate before the mixed bed.
My well had high co2 so I recharge the anion every 120/150 gallons of pure water. The mixed bed is only there to catch what's missed but it hasn't missed anything yet.

 

[SeaDweller]

My incoming TDS is 42~48 depending on time of year.
Not gross. Some context: I also have anion/cation seperate before the mixed bed.
My well had high co2 so I recharge the anion every 120/150 gallons of pure water. The mixed bed is only there to catch what's missed but it hasn't missed anything yet.

that makes more sense. I use separate Cat/Ani beds too.

me personally, I would still change out the resin annually (my cation lasts a long time, but I change that out every 9-12 mos), Peace of mind, for me.

 

[fish_collector]

Mine lasts 3 months at best lol.. Vegas water is nasty 575 tds

Luuuccckkkyyy! My municipal tap water here on the outskirts of Phoenix is 850 sometimes. I changed my membranes 6 months ago and saw an immediate improvement in problem algae in both of my tanks. I use dedicated bed resins and hardly ever need to change the third stage mixed bed.

 

[fish_collector]

In my 1.5 year old 80g SPS frag tank I was having difficulty with pale acros, STN and poor growth in general. As more time has passed those issues have mostly subsided and I'm able to grow them now. My alk consumption has been steadily increasing over the last 6 months so I see that as a step in the right direction. My nitrate usually stays at about 5-10 and phosphate floats between 0.05 to 0.15 but never too quickly. I'm still using automated 2 part dosing with supplemental trace element additions and regular water changes.

I do struggle with certain acros still, I can't keep a millipora alive for whatever the reason. They will have great PE for a month or so and then start into decline and go dormant for months before I just take them out of the system. All the while other acros are growing a good base and have great PE and color.

Last weekend I had been reading about red, white and black bugs and the symptoms seemed to match what had been going on in my tank so I reached out to a friend in our club that I knew had some Interceptor (actually milbemycin oxime) and started my first dose last Sunday. So 7 days in I see not much change in the looks of my acro collection and no other obvious side effects have been noted, although I'm aware I have knocked out the amphipod and copepod population but that is relatively easy to replace once I'm done and get some carbon back into the system and skimmer running again. I do feel good about the treatment now knowing I have eliminated one of the possible reasons for acro decline.

I'll keep you all informed as my treatment unfolds, but so far there are zero side effects noted.

 

[Biff0rz]

In my 1.5 year old 80g SPS frag tank I was having difficulty with pale acros, STN and poor growth in general. As more time has passed those issues have mostly subsided and I'm able to grow them now. My alk consumption has been steadily increasing over the last 6 months so I see that as a step in the right direction. My nitrate usually stays at about 5-10 and phosphate floats between 0.05 to 0.15 but never too quickly. I'm still using automated 2 part dosing with supplemental trace element additions and regular water changes.

I do struggle with certain acros still, I can't keep a millipora alive for whatever the reason. They will have great PE for a month or so and then start into decline and go dormant for months before I just take them out of the system. All the while other acros are growing a good base and have great PE and color.

Last weekend I had been reading about red, white and black bugs and the symptoms seemed to match what had been going on in my tank so I reached out to a friend in our club that I knew had some Interceptor (actually milbemycin oxime) and started my first dose last Sunday. So 7 days in I see not much change in the looks of my acro collection and no other obvious side effects have been noted, although I'm aware I have knocked out the amphipod and copepod population but that is relatively easy to replace once I'm done and get some carbon back into the system and skimmer running again. I do feel good about the treatment now knowing I have eliminated one of the possible reasons for acro decline.

I'll keep you all informed as my treatment unfolds, but so far there are zero side effects noted.

How many times did you dose and how far apart? One treatment won't suffice.