Sump Design - Input requested

[Reef-junky]

If you think about it all your doing is making the canister into a sump. Your gaining very little water volume and space though. You would be better off to add a bigger sump or another sump. If all your wanting is to just add media you can just put that in the sump and it will work fine just not as well as a reactor.

 

[Akadios]

Some people consider have the return in the middle better.

Would it not be better to have the water coming down from the tank split off and fill the refuge? In this design would the refuge get enough water movement?

 

[Akadios]

If you think about it all your doing is making the canister into a sump. Your gaining very little water volume and space though. You would be better off to add a bigger sump or another sump. If all your wanting is to just add media you can just put that in the sump and it will work fine just not as well as a reactor.

That isn't really the issue at play, given the space the 29 is the best option next to it is going a 15 gallon container for autotop off. So a bigger sump while staying in the cabinet isn't an option. It leaves 8" of space and I already own the canister. The question wasn't does it do it better it is does it do it better enough to spend $150 at this moment as I am building everything on a mid range reactor. Given the fact that I clean my tank weekly and have no issue with popping the top off a 206 and washing it out real quick its about a 2 minute task with no foam in it.

 

[Reef-junky]

the speed you bleed off the return pump should be more then enough to run the fuge. As far as splitting from the overflow if you planing on teeing off a single line that's just asking for a flood. It depends on your overflow set up really. Some tanks have two overflows. Are you running an emergency drain? The speed through a sump is only 3 to 5x the DT. That's not fast.

 

[Reef-junky]

That isn't really the issue at play, given the space the 29 is the best option next to it is going a 15 gallon container for autotop off. So a bigger sump while staying in the cabinet isn't an option. It leaves 8" of space and I already own the canister. The question wasn't does it do it better it is does it do it better enough to spend $150 at this moment as I am building everything on a mid range reactor. Given the fact that I clean my tank weekly and have no issue with popping the top off a 206 and washing it out real quick its about a 2 minute task with no foam in it.

Your missing the point. It's taking up a lot of space and not worth the effort. Unless you have a basement sump. You gain nothing by using it. If you wanted to turn it into a fuge or something I would say buy cheap tote but you don't. You would be better off putting an ATO in that spot. You don't need to be changing water every week. If you set your tank up properly no more then once every other week to a month if not longer. Some people set up their tank so they never have to change the water. The more stuff you have to do the more likely it is that things will get skipped when you get busy and then problems start. For long term success it's best to run a low maintenance system. Why do you think so many people automate things on their tanks.

 

[Victoria M]

Would it not be better to have the water coming down from the tank split off and fill the refuge? In this design would the refuge get enough water movement?

That is how I would do it. I would T off of the drain to the fuge and have a valve to control the flow. Or I would just do it the way I am going to which is the chaeto fuge in the first chamber (which is the drain line chamber ) then a light blocking baffle, then the equipment chamber, then one baffle for the return chamber. Simple is better for me.

 

[Reef-junky]

On a single drain with no emergency a tee is a good spot for blockage to happen then the flood starts. Only takes one time. These types of set ups usually involve horizontal runs of pipe as well which can cause problems. In general you want to avoid having horizontal pipe on an overflow. As far as where to place things in a sump there really is no right or wrong those two pictures are the most common designs but it all comes down to what you are trying to accomplish and why you are doing what you are.

 

[Akadios]

On a single drain with no emergency a tee is a good spot for blockage to happen then the flood starts. Only takes one time. These types of set ups usually involve horizontal runs of pipe as well which can cause problems. In general you want to avoid having horizontal pipe on an overflow. As far as where to place things in a sump there really is no right or wrong those two pictures are the most common designs but it all comes down to what you are trying to accomplish and why you are doing what you are.

Great info. No I believe there is no third hole on the Aqueon 75, just one for out and one for in. If there is a blockage shouldn't the tank only fill the couple gallons in the return chamber?

 

[Akadios]

I suppose the auto top off would keep adding unless you know a way around that issue.

 

[Reef-junky]

Great info. No I believe there is no third hole on the Aqueon 75, just one for out and one for in. If there is a blockage shouldn't the tank only fill the couple gallons in the return chamber?

It depends on how much water is in the return chamber.

1) you over fill the DT

Or

2) you run the return pump dry and possibly burn it out

In any case to me it's not worth the risk but that's just me. You could run a float switch and a controller to shut the return off if that happens. Float switchs are know for getting stuck though.

 

[Reef-junky]

I suppose the auto top off would keep adding unless you know a way around that issue.

Not sure what you mean? ATO's are designed to shut off at the level you set them at. If the sump were to run dry a good ATO would shut off after a set time and alarm.

 

[Reef-junky]

Great info. No I believe there is no third hole on the Aqueon 75, just one for out and one for in. If there is a blockage shouldn't the tank only fill the couple gallons in the return chamber?

I would seriously consider drilling that tank and running a Bean Animal or Herbie overflow. They are a lot more reliable and make a lot less noise. Even a single vertical pipe can get plugged. Both these style overflows have an emergency pipe in case that happens.

 

[Mistahbrock]

Hello


I made this sump for my freshwater tank, but perhaps there is usable ideas in it for a reef tank

There's couple of diy LED lamps on top to feed whatever algae in the Moina compartment, and for the peat moss to grow
if this design was for a reef tank the moon could easily be stop as a photo reactor / refgium instead

And the Co2 reactor could be replaced by a skimmer.

I'm only starting to see a notabel grow in the Daphina population but in time I hope to find the balance between feeding them via water form the main tank on a automated schedule from my brand new GHL profilux controller ( my apex base just kill itself...)

Cheers

 

[Akadios]

I would seriously consider drilling that tank and running a Bean Animal or Herbie overflow. They are a lot more reliable and make a lot less noise. Even a single vertical pipe can get plugged. Both these style overflows have an emergency pipe in case that happens.

Would it also be an option to use both the holes in the overflow to house drain pipes, one emergency pipe. Then plumb the return pipe over the back of the tank with an elbow like you would setup a canister on a freshwater tank?

Seems like that might be a more simple build unless you see an issue with that option.

 

[Reef-junky]

Would it also be an option to use both the holes in the overflow to house drain pipes, one emergency pipe. Then plumb the return pipe over the back of the tank with an elbow like you would setup a canister on a freshwater tank?

Seems like that might be a more simple build unless you see an issue with that option.

That would be your best option. I take it the holes are together and not on opposite sides of the tank? Look up Herbie style drain.

 

[Akadios]

The holes are both in the Overflow it is just the stock aqueon 75 reef ready

 

[Akadios]

That would be your best option. I take it the holes are together and not on opposite sides of the tank? Look up Herbie style drain.

That is what I was thinking of when you mentioned the issue of potential clogging. Then just plumb a line up and over the back of the tank for the return.

 

[Reef-junky]

I take it one hole is smaller then the other? Just be aware you will have to run a little bit slower flow for 3/4 pipe. Slow flow though the sump seems to be the current trend anyway so you will be fine.

If you haven't already give this a read.

http://gmacreef.com/herbie-overflow-reef-tank-plumbing-method-basics/

 

[Akadios]

I take it one hole is smaller then the other? Just be aware you will have to run a little bit slower flow for 3/4 pipe. Slow flow though the sump seems to be the current trend anyway so you will be fine.

If you haven't already give this a read.

http://gmacreef.com/herbie-overflow-reef-tank-plumbing-method-basics/

Thanks that is great information. They say however that I shouldn't do the return with a T either. Is it better to T off the return than the drain? They basically say neither is a good option, now I have already built the sump with the middle return option. Should I use a pump just to pump water from the return into the Refuge?

 

[Reef-junky]

Thanks that is great information. They say however that I shouldn't do the return with a T either. Is it better to T off the return than the drain? They basically say neither is a good option, now I have already built the sump with the middle return option. Should I use a pump just to pump water from the return into the Refuge?

That is a lack of understanding how to tee off the return. What you don't want is the return hitting a tee and splitting the flow. The only reason you don't want that is because you will lose a lot of flow. If you tee off the return this way then that is not the case (see picture). Most pumps are AC (probably 99%) which means you can't control the flow so you will have to over size the pump a little bit then bleed some speed off. A tee is the proper way to do that. Some people put a valve against the pump but that is hard on the pump and will burn it out sooner then normal. You could buy a DC pump but it will cost you more. There aren't that many to choose from. They are controllable through. You don't want a tee or valve on the overflow side because you increase the chance that you will plug the pipe. A Herbie style drain does use a valve but that is why it has an emergency drain. That way when the pipe plugs you won't have a flood.