Swedish fish - behind the scenes rebuilding a public aquarium

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Dr. Dendrostein

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Found an old picture of my setup 1983

Screenshot_2018-12-10-19-18-01-1-1.png
 

Scrubber_steve

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@Sallstrom Came across this, thought it may interest you?

Effect of Light Colour, Timing, and Duration of Light Exposure on the Hatchability of Artemia Spp. (Branchiopoda: Anostraca) Eggs

https://academic.oup.com/jcb/article/36/4/515/2735716

Our aim was to determine the minimum duration of light exposure needed to achieve maximal hatching, and to assess if there is different sensitivity to light at different phases of the incubation process for hatching.....

We found that in general white or blue light resulted in higher hatching output than red light, and in general a light exposure of 6h (or even less, depending on the strain and the light colour) from the start of incubation onwards resulted in maximal hatching. Extension of light exposure over a continuous 24 or 48h period resulted in only limited increase in hatching.

In another experiment we investigated at which stage of the incubation for hatching a relatively short exposure of 1h has maximal effect. The observation period was prolonged to 72 h.

We found that 1h of white light was most effective when supplied during the 4th hour of incubation and suboptimal when supplied earlier (1st hour) or later (8th hour, and especially the 13th hour).
 
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Sallstrom

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@Sallstrom Came across this, thought it may interest you?

Effect of Light Colour, Timing, and Duration of Light Exposure on the Hatchability of Artemia Spp. (Branchiopoda: Anostraca) Eggs

https://academic.oup.com/jcb/article/36/4/515/2735716

Our aim was to determine the minimum duration of light exposure needed to achieve maximal hatching, and to assess if there is different sensitivity to light at different phases of the incubation process for hatching.....

We found that in general white or blue light resulted in higher hatching output than red light, and in general a light exposure of 6h (or even less, depending on the strain and the light colour) from the start of incubation onwards resulted in maximal hatching. Extension of light exposure over a continuous 24 or 48h period resulted in only limited increase in hatching.

In another experiment we investigated at which stage of the incubation for hatching a relatively short exposure of 1h has maximal effect. The observation period was prolonged to 72 h.

We found that 1h of white light was most effective when supplied during the 4th hour of incubation and suboptimal when supplied earlier (1st hour) or later (8th hour, and especially the 13th hour).

Cool! I just checked the article and will give it to my coworker Jens who is the artemia hatching expert at our aquarium :)
I think our lights are on 24/7 because we need the heat(to get the temp up a bit in the hatching cylinders). But it's not very strong light. Maybe we can adjust it to be better. Thanks for the article Steve!
 
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Sallstrom

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Plugged in four more small tanks today. Now I've changed my mind so many times after different AEFW treatments fails so I not sure what I'm doing anymore o_O But I hope this system will work as a transition system in between fragging, gluing and dipping. It's close to the tanks we will empty first and easy to maintain. Total volume is about 1200L. Tomorrow we will get some small blue damsels and peppermint shrimps to put in the tanks as well. Mostly for the nutrients, but I also want to try to breed those shrimps. Why not start a new project to add to all the others :D

IMG_6915.JPG


Cleaned some windows today. And found some corals behind the algae!
IMG_6914.JPG
IMG_6910.JPG
 

Scrubber_steve

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Cool! I just checked the article and will give it to my coworker Jens who is the artemia hatching expert at our aquarium :)
I think our lights are on 24/7 because we need the heat(to get the temp up a bit in the hatching cylinders). But it's not very strong light. Maybe we can adjust it to be better. Thanks for the article Steve!
What does Jens feed the babies to grow them to adult? spirulina? yeast? I was thinking of a 'steve juice' ulva in the blender. What do you think?
 
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Sallstrom

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What does Jens feed the babies to grow them to adult? spirulina? yeast? I was thinking of a 'steve juice' ulva in the blender. What do you think?

Easiest IMO is to use live phytoplankton. Artemia do well with Nannochloropsis for example, but probably most other algae too. But mixed macroalgae might work as well. And maybe crushed flakes of spirulina.
We only used phytoplankton, live or concentrated, the last years when we needed artemia larger than newly hatched. So I can't say for sure what else works, sorry.
 

Scrubber_steve

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Easiest IMO is to use live phytoplankton. Artemia do well with Nannochloropsis for example, but probably most other algae too. But mixed macroalgae might work as well. And maybe crushed flakes of spirulina.
We only used phytoplankton, live or concentrated, the last years when we needed artemia larger than newly hatched. So I can't say for sure what else works, sorry.
I have some continuum phyto blast, don't know if that's the right size?
Blended ulva in rodi & sieved, very small?
May try yeast?
Anyhow, brine eggs hatched in 24h & I added those straight to the semi- cryptic zone in the sump. Will see if they build a colony from this first experiment.

Cheers
 
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Sallstrom

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I have some continuum phyto blast, don't know if that's the right size?
Blended ulva in rodi & sieved, very small?
May try yeast?
Anyhow, brine eggs hatched in 24h & I added those straight to the semi- cryptic zone in the sump. Will see if they build a colony from this first experiment.

Cheers
I looked up Phyto blast, probably a mix of Nannochloropsis and some other phytoplankton. Should be okey for artemia!

As for keeping and breeding artemia in a reef tank/refugium, if that was easy we should have artemia in all our tanks and refugiums by now. But all we have is small mysis shrimps:) Maybe they eat the artemia, I don't know. Probably.
 

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Thanks for that info @Sallstrom.
This is the first lazy attempt at estabishing a permanent colony in the display/system. If it doesn't establish I'll raise the next lot of hatchlings to full adult size in a dedicated grow out tub & then add them to the sump/fudge & see if that works.
 

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Thanks for that info @Sallstrom.
This is the first lazy attempt at estabishing a permanent colony in the display/system. If it doesn't establish I'll raise the next lot of hatchlings to full adult size in a dedicated grow out tub & then add them to the sump/fudge & see if that works.
Just feed them as hatchlings, you can't establish a permanent population, in a refugium, everything in ourselves tanks ,eat them.
I found also not "profitable" ,raise them to adulthood,and then fed them, in a separate tank.
 

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I can't see brine shrimps at that video. My experience contradict that. I love to see a closer video or photo , clearly showing brine shrimps.
Did you watch at around 5:50 when he shines the torch into his display? If not brine, what is that?
Copepods & other organisms exist ok. Why not brine shrimp?
 

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Did you watch at around 5:50 when he shines the torch into his display? If not brine, what is that?
Copepods & other organisms exist ok. Why not brine shrimp?
Yes, everything is attracted to light! For sure is something useful :). I have seen copepods eating brine shrimp hatchlings and amphipods ,adults.
 

Scrubber_steve

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Yes, everything is attracted to light! For sure is something useful :). I have seen copepods eating brine shrimp hatchlings and amphipods ,adults.
So you don't believe adding adult brine shrimp to the fuge will work at all?
 

Brew12

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So you don't believe adding adult brine shrimp to the fuge will work at all?
I think there are two parts to look at. Can you get them to reproduce in your tank at all or can you get them to reproduce in large enough numbers to be useful.
I have a feeling they are similar to rotifers. I've heard you "can't" grow them in your DT. I can find them in mine using a microscope all the time. What is typically true is that you can't culture enough of them in a DT to be a food source.
 

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I think there are two parts to look at. Can you get them to reproduce in your tank at all or can you get them to reproduce in large enough numbers to be useful.
I have a feeling they are similar to rotifers. I've heard you "can't" grow them in your DT. I can find them in mine using a microscope all the time. What is typically true is that you can't culture enough of them in a DT to be a food source.
I can't see why brine couldn't reproduce in the fuge myself, if there isn't any predators.
Rotifers?? fresh water aren't they?
 
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