T5 choice for Geismann Hybrid?

Mark Novack

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Hello,
Like the title states, trying to choose which T5 bulbs. The four banks of LED give me all of the coloring I need so for the T5s I'm looking for maximum coral growth. Am I wanting more reef white or what? If I understand correctly, actnic and purples are just for showing the coral's colors and not their growth. There are two channels of two T5 tubes, or four tubes total. I can mix tubes if there is a benefit or just take one model if it provides the best growth spectrum.

I have two brand choices at the local stores, ATI or Aqua Medic. Aqua Medic has reef whites in 10 and 15K. ATI has nothing called white but they have whiter or more blue blues.

What is the suggestion on T5 for best growth of SPS and coralline algaes?

And do T5 tubes still need to be run in at full power for 40-60 hours before using the variable intesity?

One more question. Is it possible to cause bad algaes with poor lighting or old T5s and what would that be or can you direct me to a thread covering that?

Thank You,
Mark
 
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Big E

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I have two brand choices at the local stores, ATI or Aqua Medic. Aqua Medic has reef whites in 10 and 15K. ATI has nothing called white but they have whiter or more blue blues.

ATI bullbs---

White Bulbs
Aquablue Special- approx 10-12k
Coral+- approx. 14k


What is the suggestion on T5 for best growth of SPS and coralline algaes?
Coral+ and Blue+ If you have more than 4 slots add ATI Actinic

And do T5 tubes still need to be run in at full power for 40-60 hours before using the variable intesity?
Not sure on that but 100hrs is burn in for testing

One more question. Is it possible to cause bad algaes with poor lighting or old T5s and what would that be or can you direct me to a thread covering that?

It's a myth........ I've never seen more algae as bulbs get older. I've had bulbs that were running for 3-4 years without changing and never saw algae increase.

You can also go to the ATI forum here if you have more specific questions-
 
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Mark Novack

Mark Novack

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Well, I must admit you have sold me on the ATI. Its not the first time. I think I have all ATI in there right now. Are you saying that they have been tested for 100 hours already? The would constitute run in as far I can see.
 

Miami Reef

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@Big E

I was planning on doing 1:1 coral plus: blue plus but I think I’ll enjoy the coloration more if I have 5 blue plus : 3 coral plus. One to one is a little too white and I want a bit more fluorescence.

it’s an 8 bulb.
 

Big E

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Well, I must admit you have sold me on the ATI. Its not the first time. I think I have all ATI in there right now. Are you saying that they have been tested for 100 hours already? The would constitute run in as far I can see.
I just checked the website and they recommend 50 hours for burn in time for dimming.

I use 100 hours when I was testing par difference from a new to old bulb.
@Big E

I was planning on doing 1:1 coral plus: blue plus but I think I’ll enjoy the coloration more if I have 5 blue plus : 3 coral plus. One to one is a little too white and I want a bit more fluorescence.

it’s an 8 bulb.
That's fine if you like a little more blue.

I added actinic bulbs on my last change out on my 6 bulb Sunpower and have seen some nice improvement in colors on some acros. This adds a lot more 400-420nm but doesn't change the visual outlook.

Set these up 7/21
Front to back--
Actinic
Coral+
Blue+
Actinic
Coral+
Blue+
 

Viking_Reefing

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I would personally throw in a giesemann tropic 6500k in to the mix. Corals just love that spectrum in my experience.
It’s going to be very yellow as a stand alone light source but painted with other T5’s (and LEDs) it can also bring out some very interesting colors.
 
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Mark Novack

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Coloring is not important for the T5s. The LEDs override anything that the T5s can put out as far as adding color. The T5s are mainy for 1000hrs-1400hrs to imitate the higher tropical sun intesity during those hours. So far for what I have had under the lamp I have never used more than 50% intensity. I think that they had in mind deeper tanks when they chose the LEDs. Maxed out is ridiculous. I really hope that I can find a PAR meter to borrow because Geismann has no real info or program suggestions for that lamp.
 

Sarlindescent

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Depends on several factors. First, are you sand or BB? In my BB frag tank, I have a 2 bulb with coral+/b+. It's a little blue than I would like, but not bad for coral coloration. In my new reef with a 4 bulb, I have sand and dry rock. Running a Geissman Tropic (6700k?)/b+ on the front and 2 coral+ on the back. It's still not as white as I would like. I have not turned on LEDs yet to balance, but it does mute the colors over the b+/c+ in the frag tank.
 

Bpb

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Depends on several factors. First, are you sand or BB? In my BB frag tank, I have a 2 bulb with coral+/b+. It's a little blue than I would like, but not bad for coral coloration. In my new reef with a 4 bulb, I have sand and dry rock. Running a Geissman Tropic (6700k?)/b+ on the front and 2 coral+ on the back. It's still not as white as I would like. I have not turned on LEDs yet to balance, but it does mute the colors over the b+/c+ in the frag tank.

You’re speaking my language. I recommend what I assume most people like which is a 20k look or bluer. If I personally were running a hybrid I’d put a 6500k and true actinic in each t5 bay and run the LEDs with all channels equal strength as well. I really like the 10k appearance though. Most people hate it
 

Sarlindescent

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Let me add to the above. I run a black background on all my tanks. With black background + all glass + established rock, slight differences in white balancing will largely go unnoticed. This is why in a frag tank, the b+/c+ (which is blue than below only looks slightly bluer). Most coral skeleton will have some growth on it and appear and muted brown/green/grey.

When you have sand that is intended to be white (or some variation of tan), you know what the color should look like. If you are going for a truer daylight look, this will stand out even under a whiter configuration than most prefer.
 

nereefpat

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Coloring is not important for the T5s. The LEDs override anything that the T5s can put out as far as adding color.
You might be surprised. 4 T5 bulbs are pretty bright, and pretty flat. Those that run them with Kessils, for example, lose the shimmer.

For a 4 bulb fixture, if using ATI bulbs, I agree that a combo of B+ & C+ is great. I would recommend buying an extra of each, so you can experiment a bit.

Geisemann makes really nice bulbs too, btw.
 

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