Tang Aggression - Understanding and Combating

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I have a 125 tank, and currently have a chocolate tang (only tang in there) thats been in this tank for 3-4 years. Do you think I could I ad a purple tang?
Adding one tang to another established tang is usually a bad idea. I’d use a social acclimation box or be prepared to catch the chocolate until the purple is established. Chocolate aren’t severely aggressive like other acanthurus tangs but they’re not docile, either.
 

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I am returning to the hobby after being away for a long time. Previously I had a 125 with a Naso, Yellow, Hippo and Powder Blue. All added individually with no issue.

Currently I am collecting or stocking my 250. All mine are new to the tank. I have a yellow, scopas, sailfin, purple and hippo added in that order. In pairs except Sailfin. All are smaller specimens except Yellow and Purple. Purples don’t like same shape. Same as scopas and yellow as they are all same shape. The purple and yellow were at each other for about 12 hours. Now they are fine.

From my limited experience and observations I would add 2. The purple and another you may like. 4Fordfamily certainly has lots of experience and would look to his advice. You could always try the purple on its own and if doesn’t work you can sump it if that’s an option.
 

Jason mack

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So what's the deal with tangs? How do I keep them together? Why are they so aggressive and difficult to keep sometimes? It's a common discussion point. Some may dissent with what I have to share but I've never had less than three tanks running at a time, up to 7, and have been in the hobby 12 years with 2 of them spent working for an LFS running their saltwater fish dept largely, for what it's worth.

Root of Tang Aggression:
Understand that from a tangs point of view, more herbivores means less algae. They've evolved to defend their patch of algae and territory very hard because they may starve if someone else comes in and takes it over. It's literally life or death for them. Angels and other herbivores are occasionally ousted but tangs in particular are often in direct competition for food and will be heckled heavily. The only herbivore that is tolerated (sometimes) is foxface. This is because they're venomous. Even still I've seen tangs stress them to death literally.

Tangs are often most aggressive to members of the same species in home aquaria and species in the same genus. When not schooling, they often protect a patch of rock from other fish, often other tangs, particularly tangs of the same species. (It is much more likely that they will compete for food since their diet is identical)

Tangs are also more likely to be aggressive in the home aquaria because they are stressed and in smaller quarters. Even the best hobbyists have questionable environments compared to their natural homes in the ocean. Fish that swim several miles each day such as many acanthurus tangs (particularly PBT, Achilles, etc) feel cramped and as with any organism that is stressed, they can respond to this by "acting out" (aggression).

The author keeps quite a few tangs in his own aquarium as you can see in the 2 photos below.
1-jpg.411877

4-jpg.411880

What Does Tang Aggression Look Like?

Tangs are purpose built for eating algae and defending said food source. They're equipped with at least one scalpel near the base of the tail for "swiping" other fish. This is where the name "surgeonfish" came from. These can do a lot of damage and leave serious lascerations. When adding or mixing tangs, be on the lookout for aggression and know when to implement "Plan B". Constant chasing, nipping, and swiping is not a good sign and unlikely to stop. As you'll read later, some species hold grudges forever and others let bygones be bygones on occasion. It's your job as the hobbyist to know when to intervene. Occasional chasing, flaring fins, circling each other, or swiping motions that are clearly a dominance display rather than a tue attempt at puncturing the other fish should be noted but are common in a tank mixed with territorial herbivores.

With all of this in mind, your existing tangs are not going to be welcoming.

The degree of aggression the new tangs receive can be curbed by a few things:
1) Keep them very very well fed. Keep enough nori in there that by the end of the day it is gone but they have access to it for most of the day. This will make them feel like they need to compete less, but it's no guarantee.​

2) Re-arrange rockwork. This can be successful because the tang feels like they are no longer in their territory temporarily and may hesitate to be as aggressive as otherwise.

3) Add multiple tangs at a time. Tangs can take some serious abuse, but 3 on 1 new addition is terrible odds. It may work but the new fish will be very stressed and possibly stabbed several times. Even if only one new tang heckled the new tang it would not be a fair fight - a fat established and possibly more aggressive species targeting a fish that has been through heck getting to you and as such has a weak immune system, is thinner presumably because it hasn't eaten as it should, and is very stressed. More tangs will increase distraction and will break up aggression considerably, providing you don't have a tang that singles one of the newcomers out. Powder blue are notorious for picking a grudge and taking it to their grave. Other aggressive species often simmer down in a weeks time. If the fish makes it that long things should get better, presuming they don't succumb to ich or other parasites.

4) Use acclimation boxes. This shields the newcomer from attacks from other fish and gets them used to seeing the new fish. It also allows the new fish to adjust a bit so that it is better able to defend itself and know its surroundings better.

5) Mirrors placed in the corner of the tank. For a very aggressive tang, sometimes a mirror placed in the corners will keep the fish flashing and attacking itself rather than harassing a new addition. I've personally never done this but have heard of some limited success.

6) Removal of the problem fish and a re-introduction later. This can work because the tank pecking order is disrupted. The fish will be confused by the change and work out their own new pecking order and be less concerned with harassing the newcomers. Upon reintroduction some few days or months later, assumedly the new fish will not be the tank boss and will not be as territorial as a result (since it is not his territory now - yet)

7) A combination of these ideas. To hedge your bets, mixing strategies may well be worth the effort.

8) If you are planning to add tangs of the same genus, definitely add more than one. I frequently break the rules with tangs. One tank has a PBT and Achilles tang together, another has a PBT, Achilles, and goldrim together. I even have a pair of achilles together (do NOT try this at home). They get along great. This wasn't easy and some fish had to be moved around and they were added simultaneously most of the time. I've always kept purple, yellow, and sailfins as a trio. Again, adding at the same time. They've always gotten along well. I've done this for 12 years with more than three test groups in various tanks on various occasions.

Adding a yellow to an established purple for instance is likely to end in the death of the yellow. Adding an Achilles to a PBT is often murder.

Notice the 2 Achilles tangs, PBT, and Goldrim together in these two photos.
3-jpg.411879

2-jpg.411878

9) Adding tangs of larger OR smaller size. There is different logic to this theory, both is probably valid. Add larger less aggressive tangs than your most aggressive tang to intimidate it. Again some may not be intimidated... particularly PBT.

Adding smaller tangs may make sense because the existing tang may see them as LESS of a threat for dominance in the pecking order (but still a threat to its food sources...)

Many people have different opinions but the only steadfast rule I follow is not to add tangs of the same exact size unless I am adding them in groups.

Conclusion:

Understand that none of this is fool proof. Powder blue tangs in particular are notorious for holding a permanent grudge. Months of time apart will not work if they have a "personal vendetta" to destroy a fish-- not always a tang, either.

Sohal tangs IME are not nearly as aggressive as people make them out to be. I hypothesize that a few people had terror sohal tangs and their stories keep getting repeated by other members and shared with others. As such, they get a worse rep than they deserve because of the same stories being told by several reefers. Honestly I don't even rank sohal tangs in the top 5 most aggressive tangs, although it is on my list because I've not owned all tangs

My list is this: (I'm only ranking tangs I've actually had experience with). This is just an opinion after having several of each species over the years in multiple tanks. I will mark how many I have currently of each.

1) powder blue (2)
2) purple (1)
3) Sailfin
4) yellow (1)
5) desjarini sailfin (1)
6) Sohal (1)
7) Clown (1)
8) powder brown (1)
9) Achilles (2) - most are docile but the nasty are up there with PBT
10) Atlantic blue (1)
11) goldrim/white cheek
12) Kole (1)
13) Hippo
14) YB hippo (1)
15) Chevron (1)
16) blonde naso (1)
17) Naso

I've also had an orange shoulder and scopus for a short while when I started out. Although it's been awhile I would rank them towards the bottom with aggression. Same with chocolate tangs. Onee fish for a short time is not a great sample size to draw conclusions with so I lean in others' experiences.

I hope this is helpful.
Great article !!! Very informative!!
 
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Adding one tang to another established tang is usually a bad idea. I’d use a social acclimation box or be prepared to catch the chocolate until the purple is established. Chocolate aren’t severely aggressive like other acanthurus tangs but they’re not docile, either.
Do you think that I might get lucky if I ad two different tangs at the same time with my chocolate, or should I give up on the idea of adding another tang (or two) altogether?
 

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I am returning to the hobby after being away for a long time. Previously I had a 125 with a Naso, Yellow, Hippo and Powder Blue. All added individually with no issue.

Currently I am collecting or stocking my 250. All mine are new to the tank. I have a yellow, scopas, sailfin, purple and hippo added in that order. In pairs except Sailfin. All are smaller specimens except Yellow and Purple. Purples don’t like same shape. Same as scopas and yellow as they are all same shape. The purple and yellow were at each other for about 12 hours. Now they are fine.

From my limited experience and observations I would add 2. The purple and another you may like. 4Fordfamily certainly has lots of experience and would look to his advice. You could always try the purple on its own and if doesn’t work you can sump it if that’s an option.
Thanks!
 
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Do you think that I might get lucky if I ad two different tangs at the same time with my chocolate, or should I give up on the idea of adding another tang (or two) altogether?
It’s possible, what size tank?

If you can social acclimation box it or sump your chocolate worst-case scenario it may be possible depending on what tangs you add and the size of the tank.
 
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I totally agree with the OP suggestions...I'm fairly new to the hobby and this is my second tank but thru the years I've learned that the most important key to taming their aggression is heavy feeding...especially when introducing new fish. I feed sometimes up to 10x a day for the first couple of weeks...

Here's my tang addiction...
image.jpg

image.jpg
That's awesome!
 

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@4FordFamily, some advice please.

My tank is 72x24 and I currently have only one tang a Purple. I added him initially with a Gold Rim that was about the same size. They went through QT together with out any issues. The Purple was obviously dominate but there was zero physical interaction. They went to the DT and continued to co-exist without problems.

Then, a couple of months ago I went away on vacation. I had my daughter feed the tank and I purposefully put daily rations of food in individual plastic bags and decreased my feeding since there was no one there to do any regular maintenance. I also didn't have her feed nori because she wasn't very comfortable doing it. When I got back the Gold Rim had every fin ripped and the Purple was harassing him every second. I removed the Gold Rim but he did not survive the night.

I would like to add another tang if possible. #1 what species would you recommend #2 If I remove the purple to another tank for a few weeks when I introduce the new tang, how likely is it to help? #3 should I just forget about a second tang?
 
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@4FordFamily, some advice please.

My tank is 72x24 and I currently have only one tang a Purple. I added him initially with a Gold Rim that was about the same size. They went through QT together with out any issues. The Purple was obviously dominate but there was zero physical interaction. They went to the DT and continued to co-exist without problems.

Then, a couple of months ago I went away on vacation. I had my daughter feed the tank and I purposefully put daily rations of food in individual plastic bags and decreased my feeding since there was no one there to do any regular maintenance. I also didn't have her feed nori because she wasn't very comfortable doing it. When I got back the Gold Rim had every fin ripped and the Purple was harassing him every second. I removed the Gold Rim but he did not survive the night.

I would like to add another tang if possible. #1 what species would you recommend #2 If I remove the purple to another tank for a few weeks when I introduce the new tang, how likely is it to help? #3 should I just forget about a second tang?
Unfortunately, because you now have a tang that knows how much damage it can do, new tangs are at a higher risk. As far as types to try, bristletooth may work. A small powder blue might get the job done for a couple years and they’re pretty nasty, but still the PT may not allow new tangs. Adding a bristlooth and a pBT may spread aggression better.

Yes, sumping the PT may help quite a bit!
 

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Stocking is well underway and seems to be harmonious. Here is the list:
1 Royal gramma
2 Ocelaris Clowns
3 Blue damsels
Flame Angel
Coral Beauty
Tangs:
Yellow 3”
Scopas 2”
Purple 3.5”
Naso 4”
Blonde Naso 2.5”
Sailfin 2”
Hippo 4”
Orange Shoulder 4”
Whitetail Bristletooth 3”

They all interact well and are a pleasure to watch.

Merry Christmas.

Thanks to 4fordfamily and your sharing of knowledge.
 
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Stocking is well underway and seems to be harmonious. Here is the list:
1 Royal gramma
2 Ocelaris Clowns
3 Blue damsels
Flame Angel
Coral Beauty
Tangs:
Yellow 3”
Scopas 2”
Purple 3.5”
Naso 4”
Blonde Naso 2.5”
Sailfin 2”
Hippo 4”
Orange Shoulder 4”
Whitetail Bristletooth 3”

They all interact well and are a pleasure to watch.

Merry Christmas.

Thanks to 4fordfamily and your sharing of knowledge.
Merry Christmas, glad all is well! :)
 

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@4FordFamily, I'm looking for your advice on my draft fish list. The tank is a 96x28x30 350g and is a new start. I will treat all fish with prazi and CP/copper regardless of whether they show any symptoms. I have multiple quarantine and hospital tanks in my fish room available for this.

Phase 1
Darwin ocellaris clownfish pair
Blue neon goby pair

Phase 2
Yasha, hi-fin, or orange stripe prawn goby pair and shrimp
Purple firefish pair
Tail spot blennie
Captive bred Mandarin pair (if eating pellets)
Foxface (once filamentous algae appears)

Phase 3
Copperband butterflyfish
Lyretail anthias (6) (Fiji/Indonesia; not IO)
Captive bred orchid dottyback pair (juveniles)
Kole tang (tentative)

Phase 4
Male blonde naso tang

Phase 5
Melanarus wrasse pair
Carpenter's or McCosker's wrasse pair
Cleaner wrasse or other wrasse pair

Phase 6 (simultaneous)
Purple tang
Desjardini tang
Group of 5 yellow tangs

Phase 7
Powder blue tang

You mentioned earlier that nasos are generally more docile, but you recommend adding them quite late in the sequence. Why not add them earlier to offset their more gentle nature by giving them a boost of territoriality?

Also, I'd like a bunch of yellow tangs. Is it a reasonable plan to add the purple, Desjardini, and all the yellows together? Or do you have a better idea?

Thanks for sharing your experience with the community!
 
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@4FordFamily, I'm looking for your advice on my draft fish list. The tank is a 96x28x30 350g and is a new start. I will treat all fish with prazi and CP/copper regardless of whether they show any symptoms. I have multiple quarantine and hospital tanks in my fish room available for this.

Phase 1
Darwin ocellaris clownfish pair
Blue neon goby pair

Phase 2
Yasha, hi-fin, or orange stripe prawn goby pair and shrimp
Purple firefish pair
Tail spot blennie
Captive bred Mandarin pair (if eating pellets)
Foxface (once filamentous algae appears)

Phase 3
Copperband butterflyfish
Lyretail anthias (6) (Fiji/Indonesia; not IO)
Captive bred orchid dottyback pair (juveniles)
Kole tang (tentative)

Phase 4
Male blonde naso tang

Phase 5
Melanarus wrasse pair
Carpenter's or McCosker's wrasse pair
Cleaner wrasse or other wrasse pair

Phase 6 (simultaneous)
Purple tang
Desjardini tang
Group of 5 yellow tangs

Phase 7
Powder blue tang

You mentioned earlier that nasos are generally more docile, but you recommend adding them quite late in the sequence. Why not add them earlier to offset their more gentle nature by giving them a boost of territoriality?

Also, I'd like a bunch of yellow tangs. Is it a reasonable plan to add the purple, Desjardini, and all the yellows together? Or do you have a better idea?

Thanks for sharing your experience with the community!

I think the plan is pretty solid. I do recommend that you add the zebrasoma tangs concurrently. However, they may not allow the powder blue tang addition. Kole can also be pretty aggressive and may not allow the PBT either. He's likely to leave the naso alone, and likely to leave 7 zebrasoma alone.

Your idea with the Naso isn't a bad one, but IME Naso CAN become territorial in small groups of tangs or if theyr'e an only tang, and with two spines and the large size, they can become dangerous. In a group, Naso are almost always very docile. But either idea is not a poor one.
 

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My yellow was first in. I was not able to do in exact recommended order as indicated earlier in this thread by 4fordfamily. The yellow was not happy about the purple when added a week apart. The purple took over briefly as top dog. Now everyone gets along fine. The yellow and the purple have their moments but they are brief and harmless. I’ve included some pics of my fish family.

3C541F52-2097-44CE-A469-E7F7D23FE34F.jpeg


1A1019B5-1DD3-4BA5-A929-18200CF1C82F.jpeg


FCF51924-E236-4792-8FA3-72EC02CA5C91.jpeg
 
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Very cool! Thanks for sharing! Sometimes, more important than what is added when, is that they're added simultaneously.
 
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