The Difference Between Keeping Acropora and Other SPS Coral

Reefer Matt

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Hey Reefers! I’d like to start a conversation about what the difference between keeping Acropora and SPS coral is. Although Acropora are considered SPS (Small Polyp Stony) coral, tank parameters for keeping other SPS coral are not necessarily the same for Acropora, imo.

The common consensus for all SPS is low “nutrients”, high flow, and high par lighting. But there is no one set that will guarantee success. In my experience, other SPS coral like montipora, leptoseris, pavona, and birdsnest can all do well with “higher” nutrients (20 ppm nitrate), “lower” par (100-150) lighting and minor alkalinity swings (1-1.5 dkh). Acropora seem to be less tolerant of lower lighting and alkalinity instability while they can still thrive in higher nutrients.

So my question to you SPS fanatics out there is, Have you noticed a difference in care requirements between Acropora and other SPS coral?
 
Acro can be picky, I have a tri color valida that is about as tuff as montis but everything else I have now is way more sensitive. I think you can grow montis in fresh water. Ive had a patch covered with a silicone mat since mid august and it still has color to it, its like the old appliances just lives on for ever.
I read something recently about lower Nitrates and higher phos grows coral best but Ive no idea how you would attain that :P
 
I've barely kept LPS in fact the only one I have is an old babies breath favia I got as a frag about 15 years ago.

still have it and it is about the size of a small turtle, lol. I've had chalices and I've had zoos and stuff and I think the biggest difference is flow. I mean SPS prefer a heck of a lot more of it then say a torch or frogspawn or whatever. and I think this is probably cause me problems with LPS in the past
 
My acros have been limited to a slimer, a garf bonsai and 3-4 freebies someone gave me that didn't turn out well.

They all seemed fine, but the freebies couldn't keep up with thr Stylo and birdsnest which continually encorached on their space and caused them to die--one I removed quickly when I noted it had coral boring spionids.

The garf is my favorite but got overrun by Montipira digitata, birdsnest, Anacropora and even the Stylo reaching into its space. Learned my lesson about coral placement.

Maybe mine are just the easiest Acros, but they seem to like my mixed reef with gulf live rock and AFR dosed all day/night.

Flow is a major problem. The SPS grow thick and create a wall that blocks my gyre water movement to the detriment of the corals in the middle and other side. Next tank will be aiming for more random flow.

Yeah, that was a bad spot for the Garf
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Now trying to clear space for the little bit remaining to grow back.
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It seems like the suggested parameters for keeping all sps are lumped into what the hardest acros require. That is simply not true imo, and I hope more hobbyists try sps coral when their tanks mature in 8 months or so. Though sps don’t have the long flowy polyps, they do have very vivid colors and unique growth patterns.
 
It seems like the suggested parameters for keeping all sps are lumped into what the hardest acros require. That is simply not true imo, and I hope more hobbyists try sps coral when their tanks mature in 8 months or so. Though sps don’t have the long flowy polyps, they do have very vivid colors and unique growth patterns.
I'm not super impressed by the colors, even that Battlecorals one that gets hand delivered to your door, but I find something very impressive about a large fillled out acro colony. Especially the tabling acros. Reminds me of snorkeling. Yes, colors are very nice, but objectively, plates are brighter, zoas more colorful, and nems more sparkly. But a big acro colony is pretty spectacular. I also like Anacropora growth patterns and the spikier birdsnests (despite how frustrating they are with their tiny breakable branches).
 
I'm not super impressed by the colors, even that Battlecorals one that gets hand delivered to your door, but I find something very impressive about a large fillled out acro colony. Especially the tabling acros. Reminds me of snorkeling. Yes, colors are very nice, but objectively, plates are brighter, zoas more colorful, and nems more sparkly. But a big acro colony is pretty spectacular. I also like Anacropora growth patterns and the spikier birdsnests (despite how frustrating they are with their tiny breakable branches).
We all have our tastes and I agree with large acros being impressive. I wish Adam would hand deliver them to my door! Lol! That’d be awesome! :beaming-face-with-smiling-eyes:
There are a few things that can change the colors of sps dramatically. Three that come to mind are sufficient NO3 and PO4, proper water flow, and sufficient lighting. My sps display tank has higher than the recommended nitrate, but I think it helps keep the colors bright, as I don’t dose trace elements.

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We all have our tastes and I agree with large acros being impressive. I wish Adam would hand deliver them to my door! Lol! That’d be awesome! :beaming-face-with-smiling-eyes:
There are a few things that can change the colors of sps dramatically. Three that come to mind are sufficient NO3 and PO4, proper water flow, and sufficient lighting. My sps display tank has higher than the recommended nitrate, but I think it helps keep the colors bright, as I don’t dose trace elements.

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Beautiful tank! And very fuzzy sticks!
 
Every tank is different.
High flow, high light. These are the 2 major things.

Nutrients are subjective.
@Reefer Matt has high nitrate, I have zero.

I keep alk around 8dkh but it has dropped to 6 and has spiked to 10. Go figure.

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My tank is 8 months and I’ve been bitten by the SPS bug… big time just something about grown out SPS. I do like all types of coral and current tank is a mixed reef but my new build will be all SPS. Also I am on the higher end of N03 around 20-25 but my P04 seems to have locked into the sweet spot of .05-.1. I’m hoping that lowering my t5 fixture around 3” will give me the par required to really bring the colors out
 
My tank is a 6’ SPS tank that’s 90% acros. I set it up by the book.

Lots of old Tonga branch rock and caves for good water flow. 6 power heads. Metal Halide supplemented with T5 and LED.

Outside airline to skimmer, refugium, filter sock, filter bag with GFO and carbon.

I dose kalk at night and 2 part during the day. Moonshiners for trace.

Other SPS tend to be more forgiving and tend to take off and grow faster. Montipora in an acro tank is a nightmare!

Acros definitely teach hard lessons! I feel like they force you to be a better reefer.



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I think you can’t lump all acropora into the same care requirements. I have several acropora colonies that have survived tank crashes and moves that have wiped out many of my montipora. Green Bali slimmer, hawkin’s echinata, Oregon Tort, several stag horn types and a purple table variety are some of my hardiest sps corals. Other types like A. millipora just seem to prefer lower nutrients and don’t tolerate nutrient spikes or unstable parameters as well.
 
It seems like the suggested parameters for keeping all sps are lumped into what the hardest acros require. That is simply not true imo, and I hope more hobbyists try sps coral when their tanks mature in 8 months or so. Though sps don’t have the long flowy polyps, they do have very vivid colors and unique growth patterns.
why do you not recommend putting acropora in a new tank?
 
why do you not recommend putting acropora in a new tank?
In my experience in doesn’t work out well. I don’t really have a scientific reason to offer other than an established tank tends to be more stable. Another consideration is that it gives a new Reefer time to learn how to keep coral in general. Acropora require more attention to detail with water testing and maintenance. But some are also easier than others.
 
Some of you successful Acro keepers, what do you consider an acceptable Alk swing over a one week period?

I've had my best successes in the past when I get dosing dialed in and only have a .1-.2 DKH over the week, but I've seen some claiming great growth and color when dropping over 1 DKH during a week.
 
I wouldn’t bat an eye at a 1 DKH drop during the week. I only test alk every week or two. It’s usually between . 1 - .7 difference. I don’t really think it makes a noticeable difference.

I always adjust my daily 2 part dose and bring it back up slowly.
 
My current tank has proven everything I was taught and researched wrong! I don’t keep anything stable and I’ve ran it from super low nutrient's 3-5 n03 and .01 p04 to my current high nutrients and alk and I’m loving the dirty water and high alk! Haha.. after a couple kalk over doses and my alk tanking from 10 to 4 and no causalities I’m currently here and my tank has never looked better.. build your biome up! Bacteria is where it’s at if you ask me.
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My current tank has proven everything I was taught and researched wrong! I don’t keep anything stable and I’ve ran it from super low nutrient's 3-5 n03 and .01 p04 to my current high nutrients and alk and I’m loving the dirty water and high alk! Haha.. after a couple kalk over doses and my alk tanking from 10 to 4 and no causalities I’m currently here and my tank has never looked better.. build your biome up! Bacteria is where it’s at if you ask me.
IMG_5912.jpeg
Agree that a healthy biome can take changes because the acros are healthy. I think a lot of people have big swings and they don't have mature rock and or lack the experience to just look and see if things are happy.
 
My tanks have been having alk swings lately because of the weather changing. I’m in Michigan and get winter one day and spring the next. The colder air brings higher ph (I assume less CO2 effect, as I am next to a large lake) and therefore increases my alk demand and lowers alkalinity. So I’ll adjust it up, only to have warmer weather come back and lower the ph a little and lower alk demand. Then alk climbs again.

But not too bad, less than 1 dkh throughout the week. I also have my dosers set to turn off at 9 dkh and back on at anything less than that. I like to stay around 8.5.
 

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