The Island Reef
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OP
OP
PmRg
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thank you so much Jorge
cheers
this is ~450L so ~118gthank you so much for the love Rev
Really appreciate it, cheers
OP
OP
PmRg
Active Member
OP
OP
PmRg
Active Member
Olá Pedro! SPECTACULAR reef, as always! I am pretty sure you can grow amazing corals using any method as you seem to have the Midas touch here . Neat looking sump as well. I did not like my experience with Triton (in fact, two days ago I dumped the rest of my Core 7 additives and went back to Fauna Marin). It was fine for the first 5-6 months but than my refugium was taken over by GHA, and my parameters were always unbalanced in terms of very high Calcium and Magnesium to dKH. The fact you can not adjust individual parameters with the triton to me is a major drawback. Anyway, I am sure everything will flourish with you as I have the opposite of the Midas touch .
OP
OP
PmRg
Active Member
News...
During summer with the Core7 dosing raising I had a bit of salinity raise, so at the moment I got that sorted with the @GHL Profilux 4 to control a little pump that takes out 300ml of water per day, this maintains salinity very stable
Problems... I had a Sn (Tin) detectable in the water, I found this very strange since this happenend between 2 ICP tests 28days apart 4ugL showed up :/, next step was a water change and equipment verification... so I found an Aqua-Medic heater with a bit of rust on the top, I found this strange because it's a Titanium heater and rust!? from where!? well I emailed Aqua-Medic to find out what could it be, well the reply was that heaters that are more than 2years old the cap is not glued to the titanium so there is a screw inside that rusts... well I was p*ssed since I purchased this from Aqua-Medic I wanted quality and not silly things like a titanium heater with something that can rust unprotected doh... they said I could glue the cap with silicone and it would be OK.... well guess what to be on the safe side I purchased a new heater.
I'm almost finishing the amount of water changes adviced by Triton to remove the Sn and the corals are responding very well.
Another small issue is thtat I'm missing No3 again... so the plan is add fish fish fish lol let's see what I can arrange on thhe next week or two.
Finally some macros of some of the corals
.
During summer with the Core7 dosing raising I had a bit of salinity raise, so at the moment I got that sorted with the @GHL Profilux 4 to control a little pump that takes out 300ml of water per day, this maintains salinity very stable
Problems... I had a Sn (Tin) detectable in the water, I found this very strange since this happenend between 2 ICP tests 28days apart 4ugL showed up :/, next step was a water change and equipment verification... so I found an Aqua-Medic heater with a bit of rust on the top, I found this strange because it's a Titanium heater and rust!? from where!? well I emailed Aqua-Medic to find out what could it be, well the reply was that heaters that are more than 2years old the cap is not glued to the titanium so there is a screw inside that rusts... well I was p*ssed since I purchased this from Aqua-Medic I wanted quality and not silly things like a titanium heater with something that can rust unprotected doh... they said I could glue the cap with silicone and it would be OK.... well guess what to be on the safe side I purchased a new heater.
I'm almost finishing the amount of water changes adviced by Triton to remove the Sn and the corals are responding very well.
Another small issue is thtat I'm missing No3 again... so the plan is add fish fish fish lol let's see what I can arrange on thhe next week or two.
Finally some macros of some of the corals
.
OP
OP
PmRg
Active Member
Techy News...
The Sump
This has been a slow build but finally it's almost ending I'd say it's about 90% done, I just need to hide the background with all the wireing and tubing, setup indirect lighting and a few more details...
Like you all know I'm following the Triton method and for that I did a triton sump by Seadreams.
Functionalities:
- Bubble Stopper on sump IN
- Filter sock section just in case I need to do heavy cleaning on the diplay I got the sock option
- Water goes into the refuge below the algae to maximize water to algae contact hence absorsion
- Core7 dosing goes over the filter sock section before the algae into very high flow
- Water exits the refuge by an adjustable weir in the front section of the refuge again to maximise water and algae contact
- Skimmer and return pump section has two supports for the heaters in the back wall of the section to maximise space
- 6 dosing tubes inlets for ATO, trace elements....
- Return pipe with a 20mm ball valve to feed a reactor if needed
- Probe holder for the Profilux probes
- Core7 deposits over the back of the sump to maximise space
- Custom made EcoTech Marine XR15 holder for the refuge
The GHL Doser 2.1 used for Core7 is installed as close as possible to the deposits and sump inlets to ensure less tubing is used hence less volume inside the tubing equals more precision.
All the dosing tubes used are 100% silicone, 2x4mm this is very thin tubes again to ensure less volume inside the dosing line to ensure more precision.
The right side of the sump area is reserved for the electric connections away from the water.
ATO is controlled by the Profilux with the GHL optical sensor.
High level alarm with a float switch, leakage alarm on the floor.
CCTV
Air Extractor to ensure air circulation inside the sump area.
I think this is all ahah
So here it is some photos of the sump area 90% DONE.
.
The Sump
This has been a slow build but finally it's almost ending I'd say it's about 90% done, I just need to hide the background with all the wireing and tubing, setup indirect lighting and a few more details...
Like you all know I'm following the Triton method and for that I did a triton sump by Seadreams.
Functionalities:
- Bubble Stopper on sump IN
- Filter sock section just in case I need to do heavy cleaning on the diplay I got the sock option
- Water goes into the refuge below the algae to maximize water to algae contact hence absorsion
- Core7 dosing goes over the filter sock section before the algae into very high flow
- Water exits the refuge by an adjustable weir in the front section of the refuge again to maximise water and algae contact
- Skimmer and return pump section has two supports for the heaters in the back wall of the section to maximise space
- 6 dosing tubes inlets for ATO, trace elements....
- Return pipe with a 20mm ball valve to feed a reactor if needed
- Probe holder for the Profilux probes
- Core7 deposits over the back of the sump to maximise space
- Custom made EcoTech Marine XR15 holder for the refuge
The GHL Doser 2.1 used for Core7 is installed as close as possible to the deposits and sump inlets to ensure less tubing is used hence less volume inside the tubing equals more precision.
All the dosing tubes used are 100% silicone, 2x4mm this is very thin tubes again to ensure less volume inside the dosing line to ensure more precision.
The right side of the sump area is reserved for the electric connections away from the water.
ATO is controlled by the Profilux with the GHL optical sensor.
High level alarm with a float switch, leakage alarm on the floor.
CCTV
Air Extractor to ensure air circulation inside the sump area.
I think this is all ahah
So here it is some photos of the sump area 90% DONE.
.
OP
OP
PmRg
Active Member
Yes, I had a tiny bit of STN so I sent an ICP test right away... and there it was... :/
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Growing in so fast!
Do you know the par value your corals are getting?
Can you share your light settings, percentages, etc..?
Do you know the par value your corals are getting?
Can you share your light settings, percentages, etc..?
OP
OP
PmRg
Active Member
Thank you Rev
everything inside came from little frags well at least 98% love to see it grow PAR Middle 400s ... bottom 200s
Radion Settings:
Lights 26cm from the surface
.
News...
During summer with the Core7 dosing raising I had a bit of salinity raise, so at the moment I got that sorted with the @GHL Profilux 4 to control a little pump that takes out 300ml of water per day, this maintains salinity very stable
Problems... I had a Sn (Tin) detectable in the water, I found this very strange since this happenend between 2 ICP tests 28days apart 4ugL showed up :/, next step was a water change and equipment verification... so I found an Aqua-Medic heater with a bit of rust on the top, I found this strange because it's a Titanium heater and rust!? from where!? well I emailed Aqua-Medic to find out what could it be, well the reply was that heaters that are more than 2years old the cap is not glued to the titanium so there is a screw inside that rusts... well I was p*ssed since I purchased this from Aqua-Medic I wanted quality and not silly things like a titanium heater with something that can rust unprotected doh... they said I could glue the cap with silicone and it would be OK.... well guess what to be on the safe side I purchased a new heater.
I'm almost finishing the amount of water changes adviced by Triton to remove the Sn and the corals are responding very well.
Another small issue is thtat I'm missing No3 again... so the plan is add fish fish fish lol let's see what I can arrange on thhe next week or two.
Finally some macros of some of the corals
.
Hi Pedro, good to know everything is going well, though hardly surprised... [emoji4]
What were your Sn levels? Mine were at 6,23 in the first test and 4,93 2 months later. The only thing I have found in my tank was a rusting magnet in a Innovative Marine Gourmet defroster. However, even that was never permanently inside the tank so still puzzled where that might be coming from.
I have done the 6x15% water changes and sent a new test (after taking the magnet out) so let's see...
The truth is for the first time my SPS are growing and even have some polio extension in one acro [emoji33].
Curious to know what level you had the Sn.
Keep up the good work so the rest of us can continue to drool over these pics!
OP
OP
PmRg
Active Member
Thank you
The Sn was not much only 3,98ugL but this was giving me problems a bit of STN :/
I just sent a sample today, wish me luck for no Sn.
check heaters...pumps... and anything "metal" related inside or near the tank like rusting stuff inside the cabinet like hinges etc... can come from those thing :/
Pedro
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