The Maelstrom 120

OP
AbjectMaelstroM

AbjectMaelstroM

Valuable Member
View Badges
Joined
Jul 21, 2019
Messages
1,082
Reaction score
1,276
Location
RVA
Sigh.... Went to start the plumbing to the sump and everything was gravy:

20191223_140858.jpg


Then I get to the returns and.... Womp womp womp... Turns out its drilled for a max of 1/2 return and not 3/4 like I thought. I'm honestly not sure I got the 3/4 from but at this point it makes little difference. Now I have to return to BRS the 3/4 stuff (bulkheads, locline, and a couple fittings) and get their 1/2 counterparts.

20191223_141126.jpg


I guess in the meantime I can plumb everything else. Oh well.

Almost forgot, I need to buy sand!
 

Red_Beard

Active Member
View Badges
Joined
Feb 17, 2019
Messages
356
Reaction score
407
Location
Utah
Ooooh, that sucks! Or if you didn't want to return everything you could get a reducer and run it all 3/4 until the bulkhead in the glass.

Edit: on a lighter note, what kind of sand are you looking at?
 
OP
AbjectMaelstroM

AbjectMaelstroM

Valuable Member
View Badges
Joined
Jul 21, 2019
Messages
1,082
Reaction score
1,276
Location
RVA
Ooooh, that sucks! Or if you didn't want to return everything you could get a reducer and run it all 3/4 until the bulkhead in the glass.
I thought about it, but then it just ends up a hodge-podge of pvc sizes; between the 1" drains and manifold, 3/4" return then 1/2" reduction for return.

Going to run 1" everywhere, then at the return bulkheads reduce to 1/2", for simplicity sake.

Already got the 1/2" reducers, locline and bulkhead ordered. BRS sent me an RMA but didn't provide the address where to send it. So just waiting on that.
 
OP
AbjectMaelstroM

AbjectMaelstroM

Valuable Member
View Badges
Joined
Jul 21, 2019
Messages
1,082
Reaction score
1,276
Location
RVA
Finishing up plumbing today and I need some help. The way it is now, the overflow is plumbed using 1" for all 3 drains. The return, coming off Varios 6 is 1.25" and is immediately reduced to a 1" barb, soft tubing, to a 1" manifold. The manifold will have 2 valves coming off of it for future equipment UV/reactors. Then manifold also feeds the two returns, which are 1" all the way to the bulkheads, at which point they are reduced to 1/2" as this tank is unfortunately is predrilled for 1/2. :confused:

So my question is two fold:

1. My plan was to downsize the manifold valves to 1/2. Is this wise? Should I leave them 1"? Reduce to 3/4"?

2. Knowing what you know now, how many manifold valves/branches would you plumb? Is 2 enough? Increase it to 3?

PS. Spit balling here, but I guess I could always union-off the manifold to the left and right of the valves so the whole bank is removable if I need to do anything with the valves...
 

Schnizzle

Well-Known Member
View Badges
Joined
Dec 26, 2017
Messages
704
Reaction score
1,008
Location
DelMarVa
Finishing up plumbing today and I need some help. The way it is now, the overflow is plumbed using 1" for all 3 drains. The return, coming off Varios 6 is 1.25" and is immediately reduced to a 1" barb, soft tubing, to a 1" manifold. The manifold will have 2 valves coming off of it for future equipment UV/reactors. Then manifold also feeds the two returns, which are 1" all the way to the bulkheads, at which point they are reduced to 1/2" as this tank is unfortunately is predrilled for 1/2. :confused:

So my question is two fold:

1. My plan was to downsize the manifold valves to 1/2. Is this wise? Should I leave them 1"? Reduce to 3/4"?

2. Knowing what you know now, how many manifold valves/branches would you plumb? Is 2 enough? Increase it to 3?

PS. Spit balling here, but I guess I could always union-off the manifold to the left and right of the valves so the whole bank is removable if I need to do anything with the valves...
I have an SCA as well and love it. Though your carpentry work put mine to shame. That stand is beautiful.

I think I understand your question.
1. I would leave the route to the returns on the tank 1” the entire way through the manifold, reducing at the connection points for the smaller devices. Including the added devices like UV or reactors.
2. Unfortunately, I have no input on part two. I run my tank bare bones so no manifold this go round.
 
https://www.omegasea.net/
OP
AbjectMaelstroM

AbjectMaelstroM

Valuable Member
View Badges
Joined
Jul 21, 2019
Messages
1,082
Reaction score
1,276
Location
RVA
I have an SCA as well and love it. Though your carpentry work put mine to shame. That stand is beautiful.

I think I understand your question.
1. I would leave the route to the returns on the tank 1” the entire way through the manifold, reducing at the connection points for the smaller devices. Including the added devices like UV or reactors.
2. Unfortunately, I have no input on part two. I run my tank bare bones so no manifold this go round.
Thank you for the reply and the kind words. Trust me, not all my projects have turned turned out well. I've built a couple things over the years, TV stand, bed frame/headboard, some coffee tables. Each one was a learning step... There were some real "Frankenstein" pieces, hahaha.

As for the manifold, I think I'm going to go with 1" all around then reduce at connection if needed later. The only thing I can see myself running is maybe a UV and/or reavtor(s) if need comes to it. Like you, I'm a firm believer in keeping it simple.
 
OP
AbjectMaelstroM

AbjectMaelstroM

Valuable Member
View Badges
Joined
Jul 21, 2019
Messages
1,082
Reaction score
1,276
Location
RVA
Plugging along with plumbing. Harder than I thought, constantly having to keep track of 1" seating depth and dry fitting pieces.

20191229_153222.jpg


20191229_153209.jpg


20191229_153204.jpg


20191229_152558.jpg


White pvc (except for fittings) is just dry fit. Final will be red.


PS. This is what I'm thinking about as far as finishing it up. Pardon the finger-painted MS Paint image .:eek:

whatisthis.jpg


The two left drains are the main (w/ gate valve) and secondary (no valve). Left (unfinished) is the emergency going into the fuge section. The extreme left/right are the returns that will be connected via manifold with 2 valves T-ed off for future equipment. The valve section will also be union'ed off so I can take it out if I ever need to do anything with the valves. Between the right manifold union and the right return pipe will be a T to the return pump. I'm also thinking about adding a union to the 45 section of the Main drain pipe to that it can be removed/pipe length adjusted...maybe also add union to under the gate valve?............Hopefully all that mess makes some kind of sense....

Thoughts, comments concerns? Anything you would do different?
 
Last edited:
OP
AbjectMaelstroM

AbjectMaelstroM

Valuable Member
View Badges
Joined
Jul 21, 2019
Messages
1,082
Reaction score
1,276
Location
RVA
Finally, the plumbing is done. To be honest, this has been the most exhausting part of this build.

20200105_145208.jpg


20200105_145143.jpg


20200105_144921.jpg


20200105_144913.jpg


Still need clips for the return hose. Suggestions?

Next thing on the list is to leak test and pressure/return test. To be done tomorrow (hopefully).

I'm tired. Time for football and a cold beer.
 
OP
AbjectMaelstroM

AbjectMaelstroM

Valuable Member
View Badges
Joined
Jul 21, 2019
Messages
1,082
Reaction score
1,276
Location
RVA
So far, so good. Floor hasn't caved in and I don't have a 120g puddle.... Yet.

On a side note, isn't (starfire) low-iron glass supposed to be... Well, not green. Guess it would be more green with standard glass? Not sure what low-iron glass is supposed to look like.

20200106_095329.jpg
 
Corals.com
OP
AbjectMaelstroM

AbjectMaelstroM

Valuable Member
View Badges
Joined
Jul 21, 2019
Messages
1,082
Reaction score
1,276
Location
RVA
Well, after 6 hours, I was about to call it good....and of course, I see a tiny water streak coming from between the overflow and the tank exterior.

Tried righting up the bulkhead nut... No dice. Ended draining some water, took off the overflow, cleaned the mating surface with alcohol and on the external gaskets, put a tiny bit of silicone lube. Put everything back together... Restarting the timer, maybe let it run overnight if I dont see any H2O invasion lol.

I knew it was too good to be true, haha.
 
OP
AbjectMaelstroM

AbjectMaelstroM

Valuable Member
View Badges
Joined
Jul 21, 2019
Messages
1,082
Reaction score
1,276
Location
RVA
Well, I didn't wake up to an indoor pool this morning, so I think we're at the home stretch.

Killed the pumps to test back siphon, all good. Still have abiut 4" to the trim on my 40B sump. Going to let it run the rest of the day and will drain the whole lot after I get home from work. Not looking forward to that.... Sigh.


Next step, mix the salt and transfer the dry rock that's been cycling since October, then add the sand. I grabbed 2 bags kf Reeflakes and a bag of MisoFlakes (90lb total).... Should this be rinsed or just let filter cups do work?

Lastly, as far as mixing salt, I have 2x 32gak brutes, but seeing that I need about 140 gal total volume of salt water, can/should I just RO/DI fill the tank and sump to appropriate water-level, then let my mp40s do the mixing? Or suck it up and do ~25gallon at a time...?
I have 2x200 gal buckets of Tropic Marin Pro, but I think the initial mix will use IO since I'll probably have a mini-cycle and will have to WC it out. Then when it gets closer to adding coral, start WC using TM pro. Any heartburn over this plan?
 

Schnizzle

Well-Known Member
View Badges
Joined
Dec 26, 2017
Messages
704
Reaction score
1,008
Location
DelMarVa
I would rinse it. I did not and I ended up with my sump and gyres covered in dust. I believe that is also where my high silicates came from. If you don't mind sponges EVERYWHERE it's not the end of the world. I didn't rinse because it was "live sand" but looking back, I'm not sure how live it was.

IMG_0246.jpg
 

Schnizzle

Well-Known Member
View Badges
Joined
Dec 26, 2017
Messages
704
Reaction score
1,008
Location
DelMarVa
I missed part two. I started with dry rock, filled with RODI, then salted. From there I added my live sand. Considering you have been curing your rocks I would fill it with RODI and salt it. Then add your rocks and sand. You can easily remove water with cups or a bucket as you add everything in.
 

Is your current reef tank the BEST reef aquarium you've ever had?

  • Yes

    Votes: 152 70.0%
  • No

    Votes: 46 21.2%
  • It's a tie

    Votes: 6 2.8%
  • Other (please explain)

    Votes: 13 6.0%

Online statistics

Members online
2,257
Guests online
4,513
Total visitors
6,770
Chaos Aquaculture
Top