The Wrasse Lover's Thread!

[tbrown]

Puddingwife?

She's almost 6".

 

[TheNative192]

I think a Naoko might appreciate a bit more length than the WB 90.3. On the fence about a rhomboid as well. You'd likely be better with a lubbocki or a pintail (latter only if tank is quite peaceful), or a brunneus. Maybe a bathyphilus. My personal limit for flashers is a 4ft tank for their zoomies. Have you've seen the wrasse infographic?

Rubriventralis complex suggests minimum 55g, but I suspect the naoko to be a bit zoomier. Maybe a rubeus would work in a 3fter (@Slocke ?).

I like having multiple sand sleepers. Had 3 in my 83g and would have had 4 if not for the chrysus jumping through an open feed hole.

That is insane lol!

 

[Tcook]

Surprise at the lfs today.

 

[Tcook]

Puddingwife?

She's almost 6".

Love that wrasse. Your green slimer is awesome

 

[tbrown]

Love that wrasse. Your green slimer is awesome

That's not my tank, that's Petco. I wish I could grow Green Slimer.

 

[Tcook]

That's not my tank, that's Petco. I wish I could grow Green Slimer.

Maybe the paper ones like that? ;)

 

[tbrown]

Maybe the paper ones like that? ;)

Yeah, it's the paper background.

Honestly I probably could grow Slimers, I just haven't tried Acros in a couple of years.

 

[Kiiyo]

Would I have a problem adding a cirrhilabrus to a black leopard, possum, and a mandarin goby? 50G lagoon, mature tank.

My main concerns are aggression and pod predation.

From my research, I think it should be fine but wanted to confirm with the experts.

 

[JoJosReef]

Would I have a problem adding a cirrhilabrus to a black leopard, possum, and a mandarin goby? 50G lagoon, mature tank.

My main concerns are aggression and pod predation.

From my research, I think it should be fine but wanted to confirm with the experts.

Should be fine. Any fish can be mean, but they combo shouldn't be a problem. My biggest with would be the possum, but still should be fine since it's established. Maybe try to get a young fairy.

 

[Crabby48]

@Crabby48 may have had a trio in observation at one time. I know he had a trio of Viviens?

Hope the person wanting do gets this. Had a trio of Choats. It was for study as there never been documentation of Choats transitioning in captivity. One female transitioned bit had a male also me and salty had a feeling one female was in early stages of transition but it was at point of no documentation as they have little studied. Choats do great and I have never lost one of many. Even have brought few back to healthy that were ill and pinch to point of failure. I’m not special but do qt fish and I hold that the reason why I never lost a choats and they live a life after I pass them to a home. I stay in contact with all new homes and picky where they go.

Also person asking if you are sorta close to nj I may be willing to qt a choats for you depending on tank and tank mates

 

[EliMelly]

Hey I currently have an earmuff wrasse. Wanted to check if the following would be compatible.

Black Leopard Wrasse
Exquisite Fairy Wrasse
Adorned Wrasse
Chaot Wrasse

Thanks so much

 

[redacted_]

Hope the person wanting do gets this. Had a trio of Choats. It was for study as there never been documentation of Choats transitioning in captivity. One female transitioned bit had a male also me and salty had a feeling one female was in early stages of transition but it was at point of no documentation as they have little studied. Choats do great and I have never lost one of many. Even have brought few back to healthy that were ill and pinch to point of failure. I’m not special but do qt fish and I hold that the reason why I never lost a choats and they live a life after I pass them to a home. I stay in contact with all new homes and picky where they go.

Also person asking if you are sorta close to nj I may be willing to qt a choats for you depending on tank and tank mates

Hey I actually have three choati leopards coming in next week. Any advice on how to maximize success during QT? I've previously had some success with blue star leopards, but only 2 out of 5 made it through

 

[winzig]

Hey I currently have an earmuff wrasse. Wanted to check if the following would be compatible.

Black Leopard Wrasse
Exquisite Fairy Wrasse
Adorned Wrasse
Chaot Wrasse

Thanks so much

what size tank?

 

[Crabby48]

Hey I actually have three choati leopards coming in next week. Any advice on how to maximize success during QT? I've previously had some success with blue star leopards, but only 2 out of 5 made it through

Copper I never seen them flinch as with other wrasse. Prazi they can hide and when out look terrible and lose appetite. I find if a wrasse struggles with any meds it’s prazzi. I really treat with metro. Why I can’t say for sure but seems that is a med they do bad with. Only use if needed and then it’s internal and I bind to food. Metro leaves them with a bad taste and hard to get them to eat bond to food.

Choats are very observant to anything not natural as they adjust so give them as natrual strings as possible. Had them hide for weeks because of a nori clip. Also never forget many time a wrasse stress is from is looking over a tank. Feed and back away and they will soon realize we are friend. Don’t over crowed bit let them know we are friend. Keep plenty of live foods while they adjust and learn frozen foods. They eat small in ocean so keep feeding small foods. Once with other and they see it’s all tasty treats they will adapt quick.
Not saying at is rule with them but yet any I qt’ed live long life and ones who haven’t most died. Why I’m not sure as I haven’t spent the time but suspect it’s more internal. Last one I qt’ed was all internal then I treated for ich in its gills to make it comfy. Most I been seeing has ich bothering gills and that all because of wholesalers tanks I believe.

Behavior is hard to see if you haven’t watched many close to see how they behave.
I don’t care what wrasse it is I never once had an issue in copper power with a few hundred wrasse. If an issue occurs it’s around 3 weeks and by then they should be good from ich. It’s prazzin that some wrasse like choati and earls that struggle but I never lost any do to meds. Also never lost a wrasse to mystery death after meds.

Again not pushing meds as I hate to treat but yet after full qt my losses stopped.

Stress is number one killer to wrasse. Natural habitats and no stress from tank mates is key.

Ornates are very tough. Blue stars and meleagris tied for second. Viviens are also way up there for hardness but sensitive to change like time or anything. They have very sensitive gills and if and parasite or illness is in the tank they will let you know by sleeping more and acting different.

Hope this helps. Learn wrasse behavior and when giving meds compare. I found if you do have a fish do poor in meds that methylene blue will help detox. Methylene blue is actually a great med to use before treatment but I chose to only use when needed as I don’t like meds even though I qt all fish.

 

[EliMelly]

what size tank?

200 gallons

 

[redacted_]

Copper I never seen them flinch as with other wrasse. Prazi they can hide and when out look terrible and lose appetite. I find if a wrasse struggles with any meds it’s prazzi. I really treat with metro. Why I can’t say for sure but seems that is a med they do bad with. Only use if needed and then it’s internal and I bind to food. Metro leaves them with a bad taste and hard to get them to eat bond to food.

Choats are very observant to anything not natural as they adjust so give them as natrual strings as possible. Had them hide for weeks because of a nori clip. Also never forget many time a wrasse stress is from is looking over a tank. Feed and back away and they will soon realize we are friend. Don’t over crowed bit let them know we are friend. Keep plenty of live foods while they adjust and learn frozen foods. They eat small in ocean so keep feeding small foods. Once with other and they see it’s all tasty treats they will adapt quick.
Not saying at is rule with them but yet any I qt’ed live long life and ones who haven’t most died. Why I’m not sure as I haven’t spent the time but suspect it’s more internal. Last one I qt’ed was all internal then I treated for ich in its gills to make it comfy. Most I been seeing has ich bothering gills and that all because of wholesalers tanks I believe.

Behavior is hard to see if you haven’t watched many close to see how they behave.
I don’t care what wrasse it is I never once had an issue in copper power with a few hundred wrasse. If an issue occurs it’s around 3 weeks and by then they should be good from ich. It’s prazzin that some wrasse like choati and earls that struggle but I never lost any do to meds. Also never lost a wrasse to mystery death after meds.

Again not pushing meds as I hate to treat but yet after full qt my losses stopped.

Stress is number one killer to wrasse. Natural habitats and no stress from tank mates is key.

Ornates are very tough. Blue stars and meleagris tied for second. Viviens are also way up there for hardness but sensitive to change like time or anything. They have very sensitive gills and if and parasite or illness is in the tank they will let you know by sleeping more and acting different.

Hope this helps. Learn wrasse behavior and when giving meds compare. I found if you do have a fish do poor in meds that methylene blue will help detox. Methylene blue is actually a great med to use before treatment but I chose to only use when needed as I don’t like meds even though I qt all fish.

Thanks for writing this up! It sounds like those that make it through are quite hardy which is quite encouraging. I plan on using chloroquine, prazi, and levamisole to get rid of ich/velvet and all internal stuff. I've got brine shrimp eggs ready in case too.

Do you suggest QT'ing all three in the same or separate tanks? I know they're social animals but I'm also worried about aggression. How'd you know and how long did it take for yours to transition to male? I've recently had some success raising mandarin dragonets so I'm trying my hand with these

 

[Tcook]

Getting these 3 to line up and not freak- out from the camera is rare.

 

[mapman]

Just some more photos I managed to get.

My LFS wants to show off my tank some more so I figured why not take some photos and do these fish justice!

Any pics of the yellow fin fairy?

 

[i cant think]

Any pics of the yellow fin fairy?

Unfortunately I lost him to old age a couple of months ago (the downside to getting decent sized males),

My wrasse tank has taken a bit of a hit with major neglect, obviously the corals love it but my fish aren’t liking it too much.

 

[SaltyGirlMom]

I think a Naoko might appreciate a bit more length than the WB 90.3. On the fence about a rhomboid as well. You'd likely be better with a lubbocki or a pintail (latter only if tank is quite peaceful), or a brunneus. Maybe a bathyphilus. My personal limit for flashers is a 4ft tank for their zoomies. Have you've seen the wrasse infographic?

Rubriventralis complex suggests minimum 55g, but I suspect the naoko to be a bit zoomier. Maybe a rubeus would work in a 3fter (@Slocke ?).

I like having multiple sand sleepers. Had 3 in my 83g and would have had 4 if not for the chrysus jumping through an open feed hole.

Anyone know why the Pseudocheilinus Wrasses aren’t listed here? Is it because they are considered Pygmy and these are the larger ones?