Treating Brown Jelly Disease Successfully

[Minhaj Qazi]

HI reefers.
Hope all well. Off late i had been losing my torch coral heads one after another. Despite fragging the frag head could not survive the slow decay and finally Brown jelly was Visible just before its last breath. I searched various Forum and also read how Antibiotics can help in killing Arcobacter responsible for BJD. Here is What I decided to undertake before loosing my first ever coral to disease.
Preparations
Step-1. Ensuring Water Parameters are OK and Stable.
Step 2. Ensuring No Other Toxicity is Present in reef to avoid likelihood of other variables in play.
Step-3. Dosing Enough bacteria and probiotics to ensure some healthy bacteria colony is present.
Step-4. Avoid Direct feeding Roids etc to Torch
Step-5. Ensure UV is Installed

Experiment
Step-1. Arrange Kcl (Potassium Chloride ) and Iodine or Pyodine (10% Iodine) a Normal Wound Scrubber.
Take out 500ml in a can and put orch Coral in it. Add 3-5 Vials of Kcl and 5ml Pyodine over Torcha nd Stir.
Leave it for 15-30 Mins in Reef water Floating so Temp remains Stable.
Very Important to Strongly Rinse Torch Coral after few Minutes to blew Away and jelly Type White Substance emerging out of Torch.
SHift Torch to Another 500 ml Clean tank Water and Put Revive in it.
After 10-15 mins, Rinse and Put back the Torch.
Repeat This process daily for 3 Days. and Then let Torch Rest for 3-5 days.

Step-2. Antibiotics Treatment
Take a 500mg Ciprofloxacin and crush it and mix in 50 ml RODI water. Refrigerate it after good mixing.
Keep a capsule of Amoxillin Antibiotic
Vibrant being Algaecide
Revive ex TLF to heal if needed.
Take out Torch Coral in a 500 ml tank water and put 5ml of Cipro Solution and Rinse
Add a Pinch of Amoxillin Capsule and Mix in same water.
Put Few Drops of Vibrant and place it in reef floating to maintain temperature.
After 40-45 mins, Take out Torch and put it in other 500ml clean tank water and add revivce for 15 Mins.
Rinse and put Torch Coral back in Aquarium
Repeat 2nd and 3rd bath same way daily for next 2 days.
Give Rest of 2-3 days and Observe.
Give 4th and 5th bath with 2 days gap in between each bath.
Let Torch Rest.

Video Explanation and After Results: At my YouTube Channel" MQReef "

 

[schmittym7]

HI reefers.
Hope all well. Off late i had been losing my torch coral heads one after another. Despite fragging the frag head could not survive the slow decay and finally Brown jelly was Visible just before its last breath. I searched various Forum and also read how Antibiotics can help in killing Arcobacter responsible for BJD. Here is What I decided to undertake before loosing my first ever coral to disease.
Preparations
Step-1. Ensuring Water Parameters are OK and Stable.
Step 2. Ensuring No Other Toxicity is Present in reef to avoid likelihood of other variables in play.
Step-3. Dosing Enough bacteria and probiotics to ensure some healthy bacteria colony is present.
Step-4. Avoid Direct feeding Roids etc to Torch
Step-5. Ensure UV is Installed

Experiment
Step-1. Arrange Kcl (Potassium Chloride ) and Iodine or Pyodine (10% Iodine) a Normal Wound Scrubber.
Take out 500ml in a can and put orch Coral in it. Add 3-5 Vials of Kcl and 5ml Pyodine over Torcha nd Stir.
Leave it for 15-30 Mins in Reef water Floating so Temp remains Stable.
Very Important to Strongly Rinse Torch Coral after few Minutes to blew Away and jelly Type White Substance emerging out of Torch.
SHift Torch to Another 500 ml Clean tank Water and Put Revive in it.
After 10-15 mins, Rinse and Put back the Torch.
Repeat This process daily for 3 Days. and Then let Torch Rest for 3-5 days.

Step-2. Antibiotics Treatment
Take a 500mg Ciprofloxacin and crush it and mix in 50 ml RODI water. Refrigerate it after good mixing.
Keep a capsule of Amoxillin Antibiotic
Vibrant being Algaecide
Revive ex TLF to heal if needed.
Take out Torch Coral in a 500 ml tank water and put 5ml of Cipro Solution and Rinse
Add a Pinch of Amoxillin Capsule and Mix in same water.
Put Few Drops of Vibrant and place it in reef floating to maintain temperature.
After 40-45 mins, Take out Torch and put it in other 500ml clean tank water and add revivce for 15 Mins.
Rinse and put Torch Coral back in Aquarium
Repeat 2nd and 3rd bath same way daily for next 2 days.
Give Rest of 2-3 days and Observe.
Give 4th and 5th bath with 2 days gap in between each bath.
Let Torch Rest.

Video Explanation and After Results: At my YouTube Channel" MQReef "

Thank you for sharing. I lost my cotton candy torch to bjd and now one head of my god torch. I cut the sick head off and will follow your program above. Hoping it works as I have 3 other torch colonies. May I ask where you were able to get the cipro and amox?

 

[Minhaj Qazi]

Thank you for sharing. I lost my cotton candy torch to bjd and now one head of my god torch. I cut the sick head off and will follow your program above. Hoping it works as I have 3 other torch colonies. May I ask where you were able to get the cipro and amox?

Its a General Prescriptions. In Pakistan we dont need Dr advise to buy these from Medical Stores. You may Try Buy for yourself incase u need. Try KcL and Pyodine or Iodine first. It will remove BJD. Then see if u can get a hand on antibiotics. Also see if they are avilable on Amazon. Even Pet Clinics have Cipro and Amoxillin fot Birds etc

 

[Minhaj Qazi]

Thank you for sharing. I lost my cotton candy torch to bjd and now one head of my god torch. I cut the sick head off and will follow your program above. Hoping it works as I have 3 other torch colonies. May I ask where you were able to get the cipro and amox?

Its a General Prescriptions. In Pakistan we dont need Dr advise to buy these from Medical Stores. You may Try Buy for yourself incase u need. Try KcL and Pyodine or Iodine first. It will remove BJD. Then see if u can get a hand on antibiotics. Also see if they are avilable on Amazon. Even Pet Clinics have Cipro and Amoxillin fot Birds

 

[REEF EXCLUSIVE]

Hey!
Brown jelly is not a disease, but a consequence of poor conditions in the aquarium.
The first reason is when phosphate drops more than 50% several times in a short time.
The second reason when the КH is below 8
If the Jelly appears, then you need to urgently bathe the Coral in Brown Iodine (any) light yellow solution in sea water for 15 minutes.
Severely affected heads must be amputated!
Keep stable Phosphate and KH not lower than 8.3

 

[EeyoreIsMySpiritAnimal]

Hey!
Brown jelly is not a disease, but a consequence of poor conditions in the aquarium.
The first reason is when phosphate drops more than 50% several times in a short time.
The second reason when the КH is below 8
If the Jelly appears, then you need to urgently bathe the Coral in Brown Iodine (any) light yellow solution in sea water for 15 minutes.
Severely affected heads must be amputated!
Keep stable Phosphate and KH not lower than 8.3

The science would beg to differ...
This information about the cause of bjd is just plain wrong

 

[blaxsun]

The science would beg to differ...
This information about the cause of bjd is just plain wrong

Yeah, I have to concur. It can happen to healthy corals in a stable system with little or no warning. Sometimes a dip or treatment can be successful - sometimes not.

 

[REEF EXCLUSIVE]

The science would beg to differ...
This information about the cause of bjd is just plain wrong

I have been professionally engaged in marine aquarium since 2010, wrote articles and run my YouTube channel, thousands of aquarists in Russia work according to my personal methods.
The science you write about is simply business driven and confirms what is profitable to make money.
Thousands of Euphyllias have passed through my Coral Farm and I know how to deal with them based on my experience.
Just check it out: when problems start with Euphyllia, do phosphate tests three times a day, morning before feeding, afternoon after feeding an hour later, and evening.
If fluctuations in phosphate levels are more than 50% per day, this is the cause of problems ...
If you are using the Reef Rhoids Polyp Booster as directed in an understocked aquarium, this is a huge problem with phosphate fluctuations.
A рroblem for Corals is when phosphate drops sharply and all the more often.

 

[EeyoreIsMySpiritAnimal]

I have been professionally engaged in marine aquarium since 2010, wrote articles and run my YouTube channel, thousands of aquarists in Russia work according to my personal methods.
The science you write about is simply business driven and confirms what is profitable to make money.
Thousands of Euphyllias have passed through my Coral Farm and I know how to deal with them based on my experience.
Just check it out: when problems start with Euphyllia, do phosphate tests three times a day, morning before feeding, afternoon after feeding an hour later, and evening.
If fluctuations in phosphate levels are more than 50% per day, this is the cause of problems ...
If you are using the Reef Rhoids Polyp Booster as directed in an understocked aquarium, this is a huge problem with phosphate fluctuations.
A рroblem for Corals is when phosphate drops sharply and all the more often.

I appreciate that you have a lot of experience in the hobby and that you've successfully treated brown jelly disease. Iodide is very helpful for coral to prevent and sometimes treat infection. And anything that stresses a coral can contribute to it succumbing to a pathogen.
You stated an absolute, and I maintain that you are incorrect. To say that "brown jelly is not a disease" and is ONLY caused by fluctuating parameters is wrong. There is a lot of new information about some of the causes (for example, an Acrobacter strain was recently studied and found to be a cause of bjd), and the science is still advancing.

 

[REEF EXCLUSIVE]

I appreciate that you have a lot of experience in the hobby and that you've successfully treated brown jelly disease. Iodide is very helpful for coral to prevent and sometimes treat infection. And anything that stresses a coral can contribute to it succumbing to a pathogen.
You stated an absolute, and I maintain that you are incorrect. To say that "brown jelly is not a disease" and is ONLY caused by fluctuating parameters is wrong. There is a lot of new information about some of the causes (for example, an Acrobacter strain was recently studied and found to be a cause of bjd), and the science is still advancing.

Agree with you! Iodine is very useful, but it is better to use Elemental Iodine (Brown) it is active, and Iodide is a not very active form of Iodine and it gives the effects we need very slowly.
Brown Jelly is an effect, not a cause...and naturally it can spread like Gangrene to Euphyllia's healthy heads. But Gangrene, like Brown Jelly, does not appear on Coral without a reason, and the reason is, as always, bad conditions in the aquarium.

 

[blaxsun]

What in your opinion is a stable level for phosphate?

 

[REEF EXCLUSIVE]

What in your opinion is a stable level for phosphate?

This means not to allow failures of Phosphates by more than 20% per day.
I keep Phosphate around 0.1 plus or minus 10-20% depending on the food that contains Phosphate.

 

[blaxsun]

This means not to allow failures of Phosphates by more than 20% per day.
I keep Phosphate around 0.1 plus or minus 10-20% depending on the food that contains Phosphate.

So a phosphate failure with your thinking would be... too much of a daily swing, ie: 0.1 » 0.2, for example? Out of curiosity, what do you run your nitrates at?

 

[REEF EXCLUSIVE]

So a phosphate failure with your thinking would be... too much of a daily swing, ie: 0.1 » 0.2, for example? Out of curiosity, what do you run your nitrates at?

I am constantly maintaining Phosphate by feeding fish and Coral + Potassium Phosphate to the GHL dispenser.
And never allow big fluctuations.
Nitrate comes from food and fish through the natural Nitrogen Cycle.
I have been professionally engaged in the sea since 2010 and I advise you to try what I offer.
Marine animals, like all the rest, do not get sick just like that, they have immunity until we violate the conditions of detention and thereby make them helpless in front of various pathogens

 

[blaxsun]

I am constantly maintaining Phosphate by feeding fish and Coral + Potassium Phosphate to the GHL dispenser.
And never allow big fluctuations.
Nitrate comes from food and fish through the natural Nitrogen Cycle.
I have been professionally engaged in the sea since 2010 and I advise you to try what I offer.
Marine animals, like all the rest, do not get sick just like that, they have immunity until we violate the conditions of detention and thereby make them helpless in front of various pathogens

I'm definitely taking what you have to say at face value. My phosphates have been ranging between 0.1-0.15ppm for the past few months and nitrates around 20-25ppm (that's why I was curious what you're running your nitrates at). For the most part, everything seems fairly happy and healthy. In fact, the corals seem to do worse over the past few weeks when I tried to get the nitrates down a bit (as phosphates also took a hit).

 

[REEF EXCLUSIVE]

I'm definitely taking what you have to say at face value. My phosphates have been ranging between 0.1-0.15ppm for the past few months and nitrates around 20-25ppm (that's why I was curious what you're running your nitrates at). For the most part, everything seems fairly happy and healthy. In fact, the corals seem to do worse over the past few weeks when I tried to get the nitrates down a bit (as phosphates also took a hit).

Yes, I agree. If Corals are accustomed to high values, Need to decrease very slowly. And you need to keep Nitrate and Phosphate within the same limits that sellers from whom you buy from or higher than from them keep on their farms.
My nitrate is 10 usually.
There will almost always be problems if you buy or take a new coral from a high phosphate system and put it in a low phosphate tank.

 

[Superlightman]

Yes, I agree. If Corals are accustomed to high values, Need to decrease very slowly. And you need to keep Nitrate and Phosphate within the same limits that sellers from whom you buy from or higher than from them keep on their farms.
My nitrate is 10 usually.
There will almost always be problems if you buy or take a new coral from a high phosphate system and put it in a low phosphate tank.

Is Lugo elemental iodine? Where can I find information on your method?

 

[Tired]

Marine animals, like all the rest, do not get sick just like that, they have immunity until we violate the conditions of detention and thereby make them helpless in front of various pathogens

Stress makes all animals more prone to disease, yes, but it's definitely not the only way something can get sick. There are plenty of diseases that can infect and kill perfectly healthy organisms, including the most recent one to cause a global pandemic for us humans. Chytrid in amphibians is another big one. The immune system isn't bulletproof.

 

[elysics]

Agree with you! Iodine is very useful, but it is better to use Elemental Iodine (Brown) it is active, and Iodide is a not very active form of Iodine and it gives the effects we need very slowly.
Brown Jelly is an effect, not a cause...and naturally it can spread like Gangrene to Euphyllia's healthy heads. But Gangrene, like Brown Jelly, does not appear on Coral without a reason, and the reason is, as always, bad conditions in the aquarium.

How do you know that bjd is closer to gangrene, an internal deficiency, than let's say getting a cold?

People have all kinds of tales and advice about how to avoid the cold, but even if you go outside naked in the winter, are vitamin c deficient and do the opposite of all those tales in general, you won't get the cold unless you get the virus into your body from somewhere, which is the actual cause.

 

[REEF EXCLUSIVE]

I wrote that the reason for the appearance of Jelly is bad conditions in the aquarium ....