Tropic marin pro reef high dkh

Randy Holmes-Farley

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Which?
The plastic one was checked and corrected against my glass TM @ 77 degrees and marked accordingly.
Ive compared against a calibrated digital device as well.
I trust the TM glass hydrometer to be calibrated by some lab standard. (Dont know what institution certifies this for salinity like NIST for temperature as an example)

I mean the glass.

Folks assume it is calibrated correctly just because it cannot be user changed, but someone had to initially calibrate it, and then we hope it didn't change later.

It is easy to check it in a DIY solution if you have a decent scale:

Reef Aquarium Salinity: Homemade Calibration Standards by Randy Holmes-Farley - Reefkeeping.com

Specific Gravity Standard

Most aquarists recognize that inexpensive hydrometers are often prone to error. In some cases, inaccuracy is due to poor manufacturing, and in other cases it is due to poor usage by aquarists. In a previous article I tested several hydrometers and found variable results, from good to marginal. Beyond the inherent accuracy of the measurement is the confusing problem of how specific gravity relates to the temperature of the measurement, an issue which I detailed in that same article.

The best way to be sure that a given hydrometer is giving accurate information is to check its accuracy in a solution with a density (specific gravity) similar to the aquarium water. In order to provide a standard for hydrometers, a solution of a similar specific gravity to normal seawater is required. Seawater with S= 35 has a specific gravity of about 1.0264 (Tables 1 and 3).

In order to match this specific gravity to a standard solution made from sodium chloride, look up the density of different sodium chloride solutions in the scientific literature. My CRC Handbook of Chemistry and Physics (57th Edition, Page D-252)4 has such a table (partially reproduced in Table 4), but it has data only for 20ºC (68ºF). Specific gravity at 20ºC is then easily calculated by dividing the density of the solutions by the density of water at the same temperature. This table (4) can then be compared to seawater at 20ºC (Table 5). The primary purpose of showing specific gravity at 25ºC (77ºF; Tables 1 and 3) and 20ºC (Table 4) is to show that specific gravity does not change much with temperature (1.0264 vs. 1.0266). Nevertheless, it is only the 20ºC data that will be used to devise a standard.

The table in the CRC Handbook has entries for 3.7 and 3.8 weight percent solutions of sodium chloride that span the specific gravity value for normal seawater. Interpolating between these data points suggests that a solution of 3.714 weight percent sodium chloride has the same specific gravity (and density) as S=35 seawater, and can be used as an appropriate specific gravity standard (Table 5). For most purposes, 3.7 weight percent is accurate enough.

To produce a 3.714 weight percent sodium chloride solution, dissolve 1 teaspoon (6.20 grams) of Morton's Iodized Salt in 161 mL (161 g) of fresh water (making a total volume of about 163 mL after dissolution of the salt). This solution can be scaled up as desired.

For a rougher measurement in the absence of an accurate water volume measurement:

1. Measure ¼ cup of Morton's Iodized Salt (about 73.1 g)
2. Add 1½ teaspoon of salt (making about 82.4 g total salt)
3. Measure the full volume of a plastic 2-L Coke or Diet Coke bottle filled with purified fresh water (about 2104.4 g)
4. Add an additional 2 tablespoons of purified fresh water (about 30 g)
5. Dissolve the total salt (82.4 g) in the total water volume (2134.4 g) to make an approximately 3.7 weight percent solution of NaCl. The volume of this solution is larger than the Coke bottle, so dissolve it in another container.

How to Use a Specific Gravity Standard

Depending on the type of hydrometer, one would use this solution differently.

For standard floating hydrometers (Figure 2), which are not self-correcting for temperature variations, it is important to use the standard at the same temperature at which the aquarium water will be tested (within say, ± 0.5 ºC or ± 1 ºF). Preferably, that will also be the temperature at which the hydrometer is intended to be used (often marked on it), but that is not an absolute requirement. The aquarist can then mark on the hydrometer the level to which it rises (that is, the water line), and use that as an indication of the specific gravity of S=35 seawater, which has all of the properties listed in Table 1(specific gravity = 1.0264, etc). If the hydrometer reads higher or lower than 1.0264, then the aquarist can just imagine the scale on the hydrometer to be shifted up or down, and shift all other readings taken with it (at the same temperature) by the same amount.

For example, if the standard comes out at 1.0230 (and it is really 1.0264), then just add 1.0264 - 1.0230 = 0.0034 to each measured value).

For swing arm hydrometers (Figure 3), which are largely self-correcting for temperature variations, add the standard to the swing arm hydrometer at roughly the same temperature at which the aquarium water will be tested (say, ± 5ºC or ± 10ºF). Once the reading stabilizes, the aquarist can mark the reading (or just remember it) and use that as an indication of the specific gravity of S=35 seawater, which has all of the properties listed in Table 1 (specific gravity = 1.0264, etc). If the hydrometer reads higher or lower than 1.0264, then the aquarist can just imagine the scale on the hydrometer to be shifted up or down, and shift all other readings taken with it by the same amount, just as for a standard floating hydrometer.

Just to be especially clear: this solution need not be used at exactly 20ºC (68ºF). It will be just about as accurate at 25ºC (77ºF) since specific gravity does not change much with temperature, and these salt solutions would be expected to change density with temperature in about the same fashion as seawater. The most important factor is that the temperature of the standard, when measured, be the same as the aquarium water when it is measured..
 

EricR

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Personal opinion -- best we can do with hobby grade stuff is cross-check with different devices and trust (within reason) those that match each other.

I use:
-- Tropic Marin precision (allegedly) hydrometer
-- Hanna digital EC tester calibrated with Randy's DIY conductivity standard
...and trust both (since they match well).
*ironically, the couple of cheapie swing arm hydrometers I have match closely as well
 

Randy Holmes-Farley

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I sent an email to tropic Marin about my problem and got an email from Dr balling himself

He sometimes posts here as well.

What problem did you ask him about and what was the reply?
 
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Zach Hart

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He sometimes posts here as well.

What problem did you ask him about and what was the reply?
He said the same as what’s been said here. Whether it’s a problem with the test kit or salinity. At this point it must be but even my trident is reading high dkh for the newly mixed salt
 
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Zach Hart

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Ok I figured out the reason for it and if anyone else has the same issue, check the tds of your rodi water. Turns out the water my rodi was producing had a tds of 60. I replaced all the pre filters and di resin and I’m not producing 0-1 tds water. Now the dkh is as advertised. Thanks for your help
 

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Ok I figured out the reason for it and if anyone else has the same issue, check the tds of your rodi water. Turns out the water my rodi was producing had a tds of 60. I replaced all the pre filters and di resin and I’m not producing 0-1 tds water. Now the dkh is as advertised. Thanks for your help
Wow 60 TDS you must’ve let those go for a long time past their dates
 

Saltyreef

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It surprised me tbh coz the whole unit is quite new only like 4 months
Have you checked for chlorine and co2 in your tap water?

Always good to know whats in there so you arent blindsided.

When i first hooked my 5 stage system up, i only went through 100g before my resin was exhausted.
 
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Zach Hart

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Have you checked for chlorine and co2 in your tap water?

Always good to know whats in there so you arent blindsided.

When i first hooked my 5 stage system up, i only went through 100g before my resin was exhausted.
I haven’t. Don’t even know how to go about doing that. But the barrel I store rodi water in was starting to smell a bit chloriney which is was made me think maybe it’s the water rather than the salt.
 

Saltyreef

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I haven’t. Don’t even know how to go about doing that. But the barrel I store rodi water in was starting to smell a bit chloriney which is was made me think maybe it’s the water rather than the salt.
Get yourself some test kits from spectrapure.
The two most common RODI killers. Its kinda funny they sell them together.

 
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