Tunze 5017 Osmolator issue

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Greybeard

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Tunze 5017, have had it for maybe a year... noted last night that my water level was several inches low. 'Level' light is on, doesn't turn pump on. Sensor is out of the water, 'pump on' light appears to be on, but dim. Pump is not on. Cycling power beeps, flashes all lights, red 'too low' for a few seconds, amber 'pump on' for a few seconds, joined by green 'level' light. Pump runs for it's normal startup period, then returns to original, 'level' light on green, 'pump on' light appears to be green, and dim.

Just guessing here, but I'd say I have a bad optical sensor. The amber 'pump on' light during startup is a questionable sensor, right? I've cleaned it, with vinegar (not that it was dirty...). Didn't change anything.

Advice?
 

ReeferMadness80G

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I know this is for the 5017 but I had a osmolator nano that was having a similar issue, although with different equipment. The water level would be down enough to trigger the float switch however it would never refill. I’d cycle the power on and off and it would come on for a few seconds and then shut off as if everything was normal. I spent the 20 bucs to buy a replacement pump and it fixed the problem and after that everything worked great. I’m not sure how well this translates to the 5017 but it’s food for thought! Good luck and thanks for posting your problem, I’m sure the resolution will benefit future readers for years to come.
 

rvitko

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I would need more info to really diagnose it, a failed optic sensor is exceedingly rare. My suspicions would be a bad pump, dirty optic sensor or weak/wrong power supply.

1) If the pump is bad, it may work but the controller detects any excess current draw and eventually cuts the power to it. When it is really bad a 3155 will flash all 4 lights off and on and beep. I would try disconnecting the pump if the dimness goes away, I would look to the pump as the culprit.

2) The optic sensor tends to accumulate minerals, this appears as only a dull haze when dry and may not be visible otherwise. A couple hours in vinegar and a wipe with a soft cloth should get it to work.

3) If the power supply is weak or the wrong one, we tend to see symptoms like 1) but they are not resolved by disconnecting the pump.

4) There is a self diagnostic test for the sensor, it has to be clean and dry:

1) With the sensor completely wiped dry plug in the controller.
2) All 4 lights will flash and it will beep, a single light will show for 1 seconds and then the normal 15-20 second pump run at startup will begin.
3) This light that is on one second is the optic sensor status, green means pass, yellow means it is marginal, red means it failed.

Marginal can be as simple as finger prints, red usually means a scratched, heavily fouled or broken wire sensor.

The pump always runs for 15 seconds on start up and the amber light is part of that run.
 
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Greybeard

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Thanks.

I will re-clean the sensor, let it soak for a while. I did clean it, with vinegar, but didn't let it soak. Easy enough thing to try.

When the unit is powered up, the pump runs for it's normal startup period. Flow is strong, no hesitation on or off, sound seems unchanged from when it was new. Doesn't appear to me to be a bad pump.

Power supply is the original (I'm a bit obsessive about that sort of thing). That doesn't mean it's not weakened... I can put a multimeter on it and check the voltage, but as I said, when the pump is running, it's strong... doesn't seem like it's running on low current.

After I've re-cleaned the sensor, I'll record the startup process and post it for you. I'm getting amber _before_ the pump comes on... seems like I'm getting the 'marginal' diagnostic.
 

rvitko

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Usually what we see on power supply problems is not so much the power supply weakening, it just gets swapped in the mess of cords, this one can be really frustrating, I've had more than a few supposed defects be swapped Apex power supplies which look the same but are 500mA instead of 1600mA or even swapped power head power supplies, so 24 or 32V instead of 12V. Fortunately as a safety it shuts down and no damage is done, but this is a common issue I see. Typically the controller will work normally on anything over 1200mA and 9-14V, if you are sure the power supply is right, I would largely rule that out.
 
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Greybeard

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Usually what we see on power supply problems is not so much the power supply weakening, it just gets swapped in the mess of cords, this one can be really frustrating, I've had more than a few supposed defects be swapped Apex power supplies which look the same but are 500mA instead of 1600mA or even swapped power head power supplies, so 24 or 32V instead of 12V. Fortunately as a safety it shuts down and no damage is done, but this is a common issue I see. Typically the controller will work normally on anything over 1200mA and 9-14V, if you are sure the power supply is right, I would largely rule that out.

I've dealt with this sort of thing before, as well. If I get a power supply that is not labeled with the brand of equipment it's associated with, I label it myself. I'm fairly certain I'm using the original power supply.
 

HoustonReefer5

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Following. I am also having this exact same issue. My unit is also about the same age as the OP's unit.
 

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Have a brand new one doing the same thing. emailed tunze.. zero help.
 
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Greybeard

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Ok, video...

This is with a clean sensor, soaked in vinegar for an hour or so, and wiped dry. Sensor is clean and dry during this startup.

Once startup is complete, 'Level' light never goes off, pump never comes on.

 

RT2

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Mine doing same thing. Contact tunze and they suggested new models need to be “debugged”... still have not been able to get it to work. Got it from salt wayer aquariums and i didnt hook it uo right away so it was passed the warranty days w them. So im stuck w this piece of junk...
 
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This one has been flawless for a year... I'm not unhappy with it, just want it fixed.
 

rvitko

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Mine doing same thing. Contact tunze and they suggested new models need to be “debugged”... still have not been able to get it to work. Got it from salt wayer aquariums and i didnt hook it uo right away so it was passed the warranty days w them. So im stuck w this piece of junk...
If you contacted Tunze, you contacted me, I am the only support rep in the US. I would have sent you a standard troubleshooting check list as a starting point. Since I don't have telepathy or a magic wand, solving a problem is going to require some responsiveness on your part as well such as details on the issue beyond, it doesn't work. It has a 2 year warranty, worst case you send it in, I am in Texas, 2 days away by UPS or Priority Mail, it would be checked and repaired within a day of receipt. The vast majority of issues though, especially on a brand new unit are install related, so I get it back, find nothing wrong and simply following the procedures outlined and making sure the installation in the manual was followed would have solved it, that is why we start with the troubleshooting sheet.
 

rvitko

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Ok, video...

This is with a clean sensor, soaked in vinegar for an hour or so, and wiped dry. Sensor is clean and dry during this startup.

Once startup is complete, 'Level' light never goes off, pump never comes on.


Assuming the optic sensor is out of water at the start of this video, it failed the self diagnostic test as shown by the red too low light that was displayed before the pump kicked on. If the sensor is clean and dry, this light should have been the green level light, note that a wet sensor will always fail, so this is only valid if it is dry. I think in this case the optic sensor has failed and it can be replaced, can you email me a copy of the receipt? Tunze at sbcglobal dot net.
 
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Greybeard

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Thanks for your assistance.

For those following: New sensor should be in the mail tomorrow.
 

rvitko

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Thank you reefermadness and greybeard.
 

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