This is a good solution in many cases, the main thing is A (the end of the hose) must be above B (the reservoir water level) and to avoid a back siphon, the hose cannot touch the surface of the water.
Tunze Osmolator ATO Optical Sensor Replacement
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I would check everything posted in my reply to moodyad10 as a starting point. I am only going to be able to find a technical issue and over 90% of the time overfilling is installation related, the system is designed to fail in the off position and this is rarely defeated. If you absolutely have tried everything, send only the controller, but in most cases with an overfill, sending it in results in only paying shipping to find out nothing is wrong with the unit and the cause is related to timed functions, refugium lights or siphons which I will not find and need to be remedied with installation. You can run the test in step 2 and if it gives a green light in this start up self test when the sensor is in water, this would be the main indicator something is technically wrong that I can repair.
To clarify, send part 5017.000, controller with sensors, no magnets or other components should be sent, they are not relevant to such a repair and greatly increase shipping costs and the risk of damage in shipping.
If you can tell in the picture that I have attached, it looks like the sensor is separating it. I tried to adjust it and still acting up. I didn’t have any problem with it on my old tank. But I’ve been sitting here for 15/20 minutes and it’s gone off probably four or five times. It’s not in the turbulent area.
thanks for the quick reply
The separation is not likely related, the exterior plastic pieces are not the water proofing, it is the fill of polyurethane resin that seals all the parts, blemishes like this are not uncommon, this is all hand work and the resin can push the cap out as it cures. You have ruled out all siphons, splash and bubbles? What are the results of the sensor self diagnostic test?
StormShadow
New Member
I have the Tunze nano and the float switch has failed is there a way just purchase the sensor?
Yes, but I would be absolutely sure this is the cause. Float switches are a magnetic switch, a nearby magnet or misaligned magnets can affect the float, also, keep in mind the safety is a time limit, if exceeded, it shuts down and the pump twitches every 10 seconds. The float is part 3152.300 and can be ordered on Tunze.com
If it is a warranty issue and you have a receipt, include it, without a receipt, warranty is by manufacture date. Include a note with contact and return info.
In_flight
New Member
Hi Roger, do you also service the osmolators from Canada or is there another process? My 3155 optics sensor seems to have stopped working. Even after multiple cleanings it no longer senses when a fill is required. There are no obstructions that could be interfering with it
While it is not impossible and I have done it, shipping and customs are the main hurdle, you can replace the controller for $159.99 US, if you send it to me and get a new sensor and we ship it back, we are at almost $90 and that assumes you send only part 5017.000, no magnets, nothing else, any additional weight will make it even more expensive, it costs about $30 each way to ship and there may be duties or a brokerage fee. I would contact Xenia North America, they are the distributor for Canada- www.xeniainc.com
I have a tubae osmolator I’ve had for years. Changed the pump out couple times as well they wear out I get that. I changed the sensors once a year back because it wasn‘t sensing even when cleaned. Now the four lights flash and there is no power. I tried a different pump and a volt meter no Voltage. Do,you think the controller gave up the ghost? Not going to repair since it’s so old and just replace but am curious what you think. Maybe the fet drivers went. Didn’t open. To check. The pumps do run if you give them power. Makes horrible noise as I can’t seem to keep air out. I use a bucket with rodi so should stay clean and happy under 18-24” of water head. Like I said I’ve had my run and getting new just curious.
There are two flashing light trouble codes, one is too high and too low red lights (the green level light may be on as well but the pump on yellow light will not be on) with a steady beep, beep beep, this is the water damage indicator, it essentially means somewhere on the board the + and - are bridged or continuity is broken along either. The other code is all four lights flashing in a slow pattern every few seconds with a single beep when the lights flash, this is the power overload indicator, this typically means a wrong power supply has been used (should be Tunze 5012.010), wiring is corroded or the pump has failed, it may work, but needs over 1200mA to operate.
rosensreef8
New Member
Hey so I believe I’m having an issue with my sensor. I’ve had my Tunze 3155 for less than 3 weeks and it was working great until a few days ago. The water level was slowly rising so I cleaned the sensor in vinegar and it didn’t change anything. Sometimes it will even continue filling until the high water alarm goes off! Please help! It’s brand new, was not cheap, and I was told this was the gold standard of ATOs and sadly I already don’t trust it. Is there anything I can try or do I need to send it in for service? Thanks
I’m having a problem where my Tunze ATO tries to start but doesn’t (pumps rotates but stops immediately) then it beeps and tries again. This can go on for multiple cycles before it starts pumping. I assumed the pump was going bad so I replaced the pump and it worked great for a week then same thing with new pump. Sometimes it works just fines but most of the time it continues as described above. The unit is about 1.5 years old, new pump about 3 months old. Any direction would be greatly appreciated.
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