Tye's AstoriaReef 350: Cycle Started

TJAVOREK

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Hi everyone coming back to the hobby after about 15yrs away; back then had a down and dirty 55gallon reef tank with all HOB equipment. Recently purchased an apartment so was finally able to come back to the hobby without the fear of having to move the tank etc. Since a lot had changed in the hobby I decided to get a packaged tank/sump which i could modify. I was going back and forth between Waterbox and RedSea and decided on RedSea Reefer 350 v3 as the sump configuration and plumbing seemed to be more modification friendly in the size tank I could get my partner to agree to lol.

Had to get on a waitlist for the RedSea Reefer 350 due to covid impacted manufacturing but it finally arrived. Built the cabinet which is essentially IKEA on steroids but very solid.

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TJAVOREK

TJAVOREK

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I also through facebook marketplace and craigslist was able to find a good quantity of dry live rock as I like the aesthetic more than the man made options. My tank 15yrs ago had all purchased live rock and I'm still partial to the look of those rocks. I might go grab a few pieces of base rock with the flat bottoms from my LFS to build the rock scape on though.

Because it was a mix of rock from different people and some has been used in tanks I decided to bleach cure following BRS instructions.
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TJAVOREK

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I thought I would share my super technical RODI set up *sarcasm*. Due to the faucets in my apartment I dont really have many options for direct connection and unfortunately downstairs in the building where my storage room is there isn't any either.

So i decided for overflow safety and ease of connection and removal I created connection of the water line to my toilet that is right next to the tub so I can place my water container and the RODI unit and not have to worry. Used the below John Guest Angle Stop Valve linked from BRS, I got mine at Home Depot though.
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Great start! Keep em coming! Remember, cycling for a good long time is important. Patience as you progress!
 
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TJAVOREK

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Great start! Keep em coming! Remember, cycling for a good long time is important. Patience as you progress!
Thanks, I am actually trying to nail down what I am going to do for cycling as I havent really found a straightforward path. Any detailed suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
 
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TJAVOREK

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I also through facebook marketplace and craigslist was able to find a good quantity of dry live rock as I like the aesthetic more than the man made options. My tank 15yrs ago had all purchased live rock and I'm still partial to the look of those rocks. I might go grab a few pieces of base rock with the flat bottoms from my LFS to build the rock scape on though.

Because it was a mix of rock from different people and some has been used in tanks I decided to bleach cure following BRS instructions.
Photo Nov 08, 3 23 04 PM.jpg Photo Nov 08, 3 45 24 PM.jpg

Step two of the bleach cure did a rinse with RODI water and now added Erase CL to remove any leftover chlorine. Also placed a Lifegard Quiet One 1200 on the bottom to add some circulation. I also plan on using this pump for water changes.
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TJAVOREK

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All of the equipment that I hope to include in the build, now where is the magic wand that sets this all up for me...

EcoTech
2x Radion XR15 Blue G5
2x Vortech MP40
Vectra M2

Clarisea SK5000
NYOS 160 Skimmer
2 x AquaMaxx Media Reactor Standard
Aqua Ultraviolet 25 watt Sterilizer
Tunze Ecochic Refugium LED 8831
Tunze Osmolator ATO 3155

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TJAVOREK

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Before I go too far into this build I have to give a shout out to Jason's (Eight) Build Thread as I found it extremely helpful and informative and overall a great guide. I will be using many of the modification techniques that he outlined so well.

 
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TJAVOREK

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First step is modifying the sump by removing the filter sock holder so the Clarisea can sit in its place. Used razor blades between the glass and plastic panels to cut through the silicon. This was an extremely tedious process especially the clean up of all the silicon bits that stick to everything and go everywhere.

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Next I modified the AquaMaxx reactors from the barb fittings to 1/2 MPT x Slip Fittings. Remove the top of the reactors and unscrew the center tube and nut on the outlet fitting. Place two O-Rings (O.D. 15/16", I.D. 3/4", Wall 3/32") with some silicone grease on the 1/2 MPT x Slip Fittings and reattach using the center tube and outlet nut. You have to play around with the 1/2 fittings on top as they sit right next to each other so you need to match up the sides so they will sit flush.

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TJAVOREK

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First main plumbing step was converting the RedSea downpipes to 1" PVC. I used the below linked converter, you have to unscrew the barb fitting and then replace with a 3/4 thread to 1" slip adapter fitting. I applied a liberal amount of teflon tape ( 7 layers) and then tightened. The top with the o-ring screws into the RedSea downpipes and now you have the 1"slip opening for PVC.


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Holidays got a bit in the way but have been planning out my plumbing. Below is the manifold I put together that splits off the return for the UV and the two media reactors. The UV and media reactors are controlled by gate valves and the manifold is controlled by a ball valve. In other build threads it seemed that having dead ends is not preferred so I was able to loop the manifold. Would love to hear any thoughts and comments as this is my first time plumbing a tank especially if creating the loop is a good thing.

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TJAVOREK

TJAVOREK

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Holidays got a bit in the way but have been planning out my plumbing. Below is the manifold I put together that splits off the return for the UV and the two media reactors. The UV and media reactors are controlled by gate valves and the manifold is controlled by a ball valve. In other build threads it seemed that having dead ends is not preferred so I was able to loop the manifold. Would love to hear any thoughts and comments as this is my first time plumbing a tank especially if creating the loop is a good thing.

Photo Nov 29, 3 16 03 PM.jpg Photo Nov 29, 3 16 14 PM.jpg Photo Nov 29, 3 16 27 PM.jpg Photo Nov 29, 3 16 40 PM.jpg Photo Nov 29, 4 23 00 PM.jpg Photo Nov 29, 4 23 14 PM.jpg

The other option would be to terminate the manifold at the second reactor:

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Click to watch best scape method in 5 easy steps!
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TJAVOREK

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I have been reading through some threads and worried that the Vectra M2 wont be able to run the 2x Media reactors and UV plus the tank return. Should I get a second one just to run the manifold and eliminate any flow issues and balance issues running just one pump for the manifold and return.
 

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Read this article on a better way to do your initial plumbing from the bulkheads.


I run two Vectra M2s on my 625. One Dedicated to the main return. The second feeds my UV. My reactors each have there own small pumps But the second M2 could run them fine.
 
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TJAVOREK

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Read this article on a better way to do your initial plumbing from the bulkheads.


I run two Vectra M2s on my 625. One Dedicated to the main return. The second feeds my UV. My reactors each have there own small pumps But the second M2 could run them fine.

Thanks I think I am definitely going to go with a second M2 just to make things easier being separated from the return. I hadn’t seen that 32mm to 1” before that’s a great option.
 
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