Union thread to bulk head thread??

[ReeferBob]

Here is a video that explains it all.

 

[Mele__Reef]

Thank you @ReeferBob. @Ocelaris. Stupid question. I want to run a leak test on my 50 gallon cube before setting up the plumbing. Whatis the best way to do this? Should I connect ball valves on the bottom of the bulkhead? Just for the leak test?

 

[ReeferBob]

Thank you @ReeferBob. @Ocelaris. Stupid question. I want to run a leak test on my 50 gallon cube before setting up the plumbing. Whatis the best way to do this? Should I connect ball valves on the bottom of the bulkhead? Just for the leak test?

I would simply fill the tank with tap water and run it for a few hours. That is what I did. You want it to be exactly like your final setup for accurate leak detection. Did you check out the PVC Compression fittings? They would allow you to have a small stub piece coming out the bottom of your bulkhead, into the compression fitting, then into another piece with the valve (ball or gate) just to do a leak test for the bulkhead. Don't be surprised if your bulkheads leak a little the first time they sometimes do.

 

[Mele__Reef]

@ReeferBob great video! I appreciate the research. When you say the bulk head might leak a little, do you mean in between slips on the bulk and pipe or in between the gasket and the glass?

 

[ReeferBob]

@ReeferBob great video! I appreciate the research. When you say the bulk head might leak a little, do you mean in between slips on the bulk and pipe or in between the gasket and the glass?

The gasket and the glass. It is somewhat hard to get the plastic nut on tightly. And it should be really no more than hand tight. You could get it the first time though. I cheated and used a lubricant which you aren't supposed to do because it tends to be overtightened with lube.

 

[Ocelaris]

Just remember the gasket goes on the inside of the tank, not the nut side. Otherwise the nut splays out the gasket and leaks. The nut should touch the glass, and like Bob said, hand tight is fine with plastic (with pvc I use Teflon tape).

 

[Mele__Reef]

@Ocelaris @ReeferBob so, I finally ran a leak test on my tank. No leaks!! Blue heads seem to be fine. I'm am going to wait another day to make sure that there aren't any slow leaks. I also planned and designed diagram of what my plumbing will look like. Check it out let me know what you guys think. Whether I should change anything. Thanks.

 

[Mele__Reef]

Bulkheads*

 

[Mele__Reef]

Sorry, just realized I made a typo on the 45 degree elbows.

 

[Ocelaris]

Looks good, except on the last tee for the manifold, why not just use an elbow? The ball valves take up a lot of space for the manifold, so just test fit and make sure you have room.

 

[mfinn]

Skip the check valve.

 

[Mele__Reef]

Good idea . I'm going to look up the dimensions online and measure it out. @Ocelaris

@mfinn why do use say that?

 

[Mele__Reef]

@Ocelaris i forgot to ask you what paint you used for your return line behind the tank.

 

[mfinn]

Good idea . I'm going to look up the dimensions online and measure it out. @Ocelaris

@mfinn why do use say that?

check valves can fail.
Design your system so you don't have to depend on a device

 

[Reef_Tank_Fan_SC]

check valves can fail.
Design your system so you don't have to depend on a device

I always run a check valve on any kind of return line. Weather it is on my aquarium tanks or on my machine that I use at work. Only difference is that my work machines are using grinding coolant and the have a lot more pressure behind them. I do agree about not depending on a device but I like to have them as just a extra precaution, plus they help my wife sleep well at night. The main thing is to not have so much water in the system that if it does fail then you flood out your room. I always set mine before I even turn on my return pump. Just fill your DT to the point where your overflow begins and then fill your sump to the point where you want it to stop on a backflow from your DT. This way you know exactly where it will stop everytime. just my .02

 

[ReeferBob]

Not having a check valve is part of my water change plan. I count on the water siphoning back to the pump to a certain level, which is marked on the side of the sump, in order to have a good amount for water changes which are done entirely from the sump.

 

[Ocelaris]

I don't need a check valve, but makes changing the water easier, definitely don't assume it will save you, but for me it's a convenience.

Regular spray paint works fine, just clean the pipe with a dry rag and let it dry completely. Mine has held up well, even under water.

 

[samnaz]

The sky's the limit! I spray painted mine black as I didn't want to pay for the colored pipe, but I'm sure if I had the budget and time I might do the colored pipe. Just measure twice and dry fit everything together before starting gluing. And be absolutely sure to put the union nuts on before you glue! I made that mistake and had to throw away a bunch of expensive ball valves and unions, was furious at myself.

Did you spray paint any unions or fittings, or just the pipe? What kind of spray paint did you use?

 

[Kyl]

Reading through this, please do not use Teflon tape on PVC threaded fittings. It's not meant to be used on PVC joints, and the plastic tapered threads aren't designed to seal with its use. This means a fitting usually slightly leaks, so people will tighten them even more, and SCH40 fittings are very easy to crack by doing that which might not be evident till weeks later.

Use a thread sealant product carrying the NSF / ANSI 61 rating for potable water, and you'll not only have no leaks, but no chance of stress cracks occurring in your fittings. Nothing in our tanks should be requiring use of teflon tape, unless you're plumbing with metal threaded fittings (bad idea).

 

[samnaz]

Reading through this, please do not use Teflon tape on PVC threaded fittings. It's not meant to be used on PVC joints, and the plastic tapered threads aren't designed to seal with its use. This means a fitting usually slightly leaks, so people will tighten them even more, and SCH40 fittings are very easy to crack by doing that which might not be evident till weeks later.

Use a thread sealant product carrying the NSF / ANSI 61 rating for potable water, and you'll not only have no leaks, but no chance of stress cracks occurring in your fittings. Nothing in our tanks should be requiring use of teflon tape, unless you're plumbing with metal threaded fittings (bad idea).

What about for PVC slip fittings? What kind of solvent (preferably clear) do you recommend?