UV Sterilizer

[davito]

Hi all! I'm just getting back into the game after a 5 year hiatus from the hobby. Set up a 108 Fiji cube, cycled it, and added some fish! A one spot, 2 clowns, a starry blenny, and a small blue hippo tang.

I bought exclusively "pre-quarantined" fish. But someone/something evidently decided to bring ich along anyways.

Everything is eating well and is fat and happy but the blue hippo has the worst case. She's still fat and from what I can tell happy but I'd like to go the "management" route like I did before I left the hobby.

I used one of those cheap eBay special uv sterilizers on my previous tank 5 years back and it seemed to keep ich at bay? Not sure though.

Coming back to the hobby though, I see there's quite a bit more "professional" options with sterilizers now.

I guess I've got it narrowed down to 3 choices.

I can get an aqua uv 15watt for 100 bucks (my understanding is that's too small but is a good brand)

A 55 watt SunSun brand sterilizer also for a 100 bucks (my understanding is this very much similar to the jabeo brand)

Or a 25 watt aqua uv with pump for 250 bucks. I believe this one meets my tanks criteria but ideally would want more wattage.

Any insight?

 

[W31Olds]

Davito, first off , welcome to R2R. At this point if you can see Ich, the Management Ship has sailed, and you will need to QT all your fish and fallow the Tank. If you can post a couple of pics and a video of your Hippo for evaluation just to make sure it's Ich. The UV is a great idea and a useful tool. I run them on my tanks. An 80 watt Pentair on my 170 Gallon System. I would probably do at least 40 Watts. Keep in mind that these will heat up the water some that can be a minor problem during the summer. Pre-QT'd fish can be hit or miss so I usually go the DIY route.
@Jay Hemdal
@vetteguy53081

 

[sgdnycct]

There were a couple of really good threads not long ago about UV sterilizers. From what I recall the conclusion I got is that at best they may help prevent ich (questionable) but will not do much once the infestation is underway.

If you are going to rely on the UV as a core part of ich management id say don’t go cheap. Invest in a powerful well designed UV and do some serious research.

Right now if you have an infestation your best bet is to focus on creating the absolute lowest stress environment for your fish. Hippos and tangs in general are known for susceptibility to Ich. They are schooling fish and in our tank live with a base layer of stress that makes them vulnerable to any swings in the environment.

I see you cycled then added fish. How long has the tank been running?
When were the fish added?
What are your parameters?

I think at this point you should start asking why the fish has ich and get help in the forum for ideas to treat beyond the UV. My 2 cents.

I also second the suggestion for a picture. Confirm the diagnosis.

 

[davito]

Davito, first off , welcome to R2R. At this point if you can see Ich, the Management Ship has sailed, and you will need to QT all your fish and fallow the Tank. If you can post a couple of pics and a video of your Hippo for evaluation just to make sure it's Ich. The UV is a great idea and a useful tool. I run them on my tanks. An 80 watt Pentair on my 170 Gallon System. I would probably do at least 40 Watts. Keep in mind that these will heat up the water some that can be a minor problem during the summer. Pre-QT'd fish can be hit or miss so I usually go the DIY route.
@Jay Hemdal
@vetteguy53081

Thanks for the warm welcome! I will get a video/pic tomorrow when the lights come back on as not to stress anything out right now.

As this is a new-ish set-up. I don't have any corals other than some Kenya trees (testing the waters) and some odds and ends for clean up crew.

If I remove the invertebrates and the handful of Kenya trees, would I be able to dose the display itself with say a copper treatment? Or does that make having invertebrates an impossibility afterwards?

Unfortunately I don't really have the means to place the fish in a separate area. I could possibly just set up a brute container and use that, however I fear that would stress them more.

 

[slythy]

On my 280g system I run 2x 55w aqua uv’s @700gph through my return. I would not get a cheap brand unlessnyou keep a good eye on it. Last thing you want is a giant leak because to the UV degrades the housing.

 

[vetteguy53081]

Hi all! I'm just getting back into the game after a 5 year hiatus from the hobby. Set up a 108 Fiji cube, cycled it, and added some fish! A one spot, 2 clowns, a starry blenny, and a small blue hippo tang.

I bought exclusively "pre-quarantined" fish. But someone/something evidently decided to bring ich along anyways.

Everything is eating well and is fat and happy but the blue hippo has the worst case. She's still fat and from what I can tell happy but I'd like to go the "management" route like I did before I left the hobby.

I used one of those cheap eBay special uv sterilizers on my previous tank 5 years back and it seemed to keep ich at bay? Not sure though.

Coming back to the hobby though, I see there's quite a bit more "professional" options with sterilizers now.

I guess I've got it narrowed down to 3 choices.

I can get an aqua uv 15watt for 100 bucks (my understanding is that's too small but is a good brand)

A 55 watt SunSun brand sterilizer also for a 100 bucks (my understanding is this very much similar to the jabeo brand)

Or a 25 watt aqua uv with pump for 250 bucks. I believe this one meets my tanks criteria but ideally would want more wattage.

Any insight?

Assume always even with quarantined fish that they have something and do your own for at least 14-21 days as many entities will advertise as quarantined yet fall short of treatment periods, dosages , etc
UV while a good option will Not erase what is pre-existing leaving your option - To quarantine. Sun -sun a China product, not the best option for UV unit.

 

[davito]

There were a couple of really good threads not long ago about UV sterilizers. From what I recall the conclusion I got is that at best they may help prevent ich (questionable) but will not do much once the infestation is underway.

If you are going to rely on the UV as a core part of ich management id say don’t go cheap. Invest in a powerful well designed UV and do some serious research.

Right now if you have an infestation your best bet is to focus on creating the absolute lowest stress environment for your fish. Hippos and tangs in general are known for susceptibility to Ich. They are schooling fish and in our tank live with a base layer of stress that makes them vulnerable to any swings in the environment.

I see you cycled then added fish. How long has the tank been running?
When were the fish added?
What are your parameters?

I think at this point you should start asking why the fish has ich and get help in the forum for ideas to treat beyond the UV. My 2 cents.

I also second the suggestion for a picture. Confirm the diagnosis.

I suppose I should've added my parameters and a little more detail as well haha apologies.

Parameters (as of yesterday) are
Temp 79 f
Ph 8.2 (red sea)
Nitrate 5.0 API
Nitrate 0-0.2 salifert
Ammonia 0 (red sea)
Phosphate 0 (API)
KH 8.2 (salifert)
Nitrite 0 (red sea)
Salinity 1.025

I was actually just looking into dosing some nitrates as the Kenya trees seemed somewhat upset and I figured the bottomed out nutritients are the likely culprit.

The tank itself has been set for the greater end of 3 months almost 4. "Live" sand was used as well as some rock from my very well established biocube that I've had for over a year.

I said I'm coming back but what I should have said was I'm starting to get serious again as 32 gallons just doesn't cut it

Cycling took less time than expected, however I waited the full 4 weeks mark prior to adding my first set of clowns. Just a transplant from the biocube.

A week passed by and Spot (clever name for a one spot) was added thereafter. Parameters remained within reason/stable and along came the remainder around week 8 or so. Everything has been eating and as I said before seems fat and happy.

I will for sure get a picture/video tomorrow the appear to be wart-like and if I recall correctly that's more like ich than it would be velvet or the others. Again I'll post pics ASAP

 

[sdreefer619]

If you have a fish only tank atm use the tank as a qt and add the ick antibiotics. Go to polo reef’s channel and he has a veterinary specialist that handles it but a 25w up sterilizer should be fine with the correct flow

 

[sgdnycct]

There were a couple of really good threads not long ago about UV sterilizers. From what I recall the conclusion I got is that at best they may help prevent ich (questionable) but will not do much once the infestation is underway.

If you are going to rely on the UV as a core part of ich management id say don’t go cheap. Invest in a powerful well designed UV and do some serious research.

Right now if you have an infestation your best bet is to focus on creating the absolute lowest stress environment for your fish. Hippos and tangs in general are known for susceptibility to Ich. They are schooling fish and in our tank live with a base layer of stress that makes them vulnerable to any swings in the environment.

I see you cycled then added fish. How long has the tank been running?
When were the fish added?
What are your parameters?

I think at this point you should start asking why the fish has ich and get help in the forum for ideas to treat beyond the UV. My 2 cents.

I also second the suggestion for a picture. Confirm the diagnosis.

I suppose I should've added my parameters and a little more detail as well haha apologies.

Parameters (as of yesterday) are
Temp 79 f
Ph 8.2 (red sea)
Nitrate 5.0 API
Nitrate 0-0.2 salifert
Ammonia 0 (red sea)
Phosphate 0 (API)
KH 8.2 (salifert)
Nitrite 0 (red sea)
Salinity 1.025

I was actually just looking into dosing some nitrates as the Kenya trees seemed somewhat upset and I figured the bottomed out nutritients are the likely culprit.

The tank itself has been set for the greater end of 3 months almost 4. "Live" sand was used as well as some rock from my very well established biocube that I've had for over a year.

I said I'm coming back but what I should have said was I'm starting to get serious again as 32 gallons just doesn't cut it

Cycling took less time than expected, however I waited the full 4 weeks mark prior to adding my first set of clowns. Just a transplant from the biocube.

A week passed by and Spot (clever name for a one spot) was added thereafter. Parameters remained within reason/stable and along came the remainder around week 8 or so. Everything has been eating and as I said before seems fat and happy.

I will for sure get a picture/video tomorrow the appear to be wart-like and if I recall correctly that's more like ich than it would be velvet or the others. Again I'll post pics ASAP

Hmmm.

Assuming you didn’t have any spikes then the hippo is displaying the typical stress response tangs show. Assuming it’s wild caught by the way.

How are the remaining fish doing now? I think the key now is to confirm diagnosis and start treatment immediately.

If your nutrients are I suggest increased feeding to help with immune strength. Feed a variety of frozen. Maybe batches of brine shrimp.

Your only options are to focus on immune system and stress in the tank and get the fish to fight it off OR (and likely most effective) QT and treat with copper.

If you want to do ich management system you’ll likely still have to qt the tang to treat. Especially if the infestation is bad.

There are various treatments out there you can try in the DT but results are mixed at best.

Just to be clear the UV will not help at this point. You need to start reducing the count of parasites in the tank to give your fish a chance.

Definitely post a pic!

 

[Jay Hemdal]

Hi all! I'm just getting back into the game after a 5 year hiatus from the hobby. Set up a 108 Fiji cube, cycled it, and added some fish! A one spot, 2 clowns, a starry blenny, and a small blue hippo tang.

I bought exclusively "pre-quarantined" fish. But someone/something evidently decided to bring ich along anyways.

Everything is eating well and is fat and happy but the blue hippo has the worst case. She's still fat and from what I can tell happy but I'd like to go the "management" route like I did before I left the hobby.

I used one of those cheap eBay special uv sterilizers on my previous tank 5 years back and it seemed to keep ich at bay? Not sure though.

Coming back to the hobby though, I see there's quite a bit more "professional" options with sterilizers now.

I guess I've got it narrowed down to 3 choices.

I can get an aqua uv 15watt for 100 bucks (my understanding is that's too small but is a good brand)

A 55 watt SunSun brand sterilizer also for a 100 bucks (my understanding is this very much similar to the jabeo brand)

Or a 25 watt aqua uv with pump for 250 bucks. I believe this one meets my tanks criteria but ideally would want more wattage.

Any insight?

Welcome to Reef2Reef!

If you can post a video of the tang, I might be able to better predict how the "Ich Management" might go for you. I wrote up a post on this topic, it will take more work than just adding a UV sterilizer though:

"Ich Management"

Because this topic continues to come up, I wanted to create a sticky thread so that it is more easily referenced. Please understand that I am NOT presenting this as an optimum method for controlling marine ich, just putting it out there for people who want to try it. Also, do not pick and...

www.reef2reef.com

 

[vetteguy53081]

If you have a fish only tank atm use the tank as a qt and add the ick antibiotics. Go to polo reef’s channel and he has a veterinary specialist that handles it but a 25w up sterilizer should be fine with the correct flow

UV will not erase ich once its established and address what passes through the UV channel and not what is pre-existing

 

[davito]

Hi all! I'm just getting back into the game after a 5 year hiatus from the hobby. Set up a 108 Fiji cube, cycled it, and added some fish! A one spot, 2 clowns, a starry blenny, and a small blue hippo tang.

I bought exclusively "pre-quarantined" fish. But someone/something evidently decided to bring ich along anyways.

Everything is eating well and is fat and happy but the blue hippo has the worst case. She's still fat and from what I can tell happy but I'd like to go the "management" route like I did before I left the hobby.

I used one of those cheap eBay special uv sterilizers on my previous tank 5 years back and it seemed to keep ich at bay? Not sure though.

Coming back to the hobby though, I see there's quite a bit more "professional" options with sterilizers now.

I guess I've got it narrowed down to 3 choices.

I can get an aqua uv 15watt for 100 bucks (my understanding is that's too small but is a good brand)

A 55 watt SunSun brand sterilizer also for a 100 bucks (my understanding is this very much similar to the jabeo brand)

Or a 25 watt aqua uv with pump for 250 bucks. I believe this one meets my tanks criteria but ideally would want more wattage.

Any insight?

Welcome to Reef2Reef!

If you can post a video of the tang, I might be able to better predict how the "Ich Management" might go for you. I wrote up a post on this topic, it will take more work than just adding a UV sterilizer though:

"Ich Management"

Because this topic continues to come up, I wanted to create a sticky thread so that it is more easily referenced. Please understand that I am NOT presenting this as an optimum method for controlling marine ich, just putting it out there for people who want to try it. Also, do not pick and...

www.reef2reef.com

Here are two photos. She's kinda hard to get to sit still. But as you can see the bumps are there and she has been exhibiting some scratching behaviors as well. I also just realized my livestock list was missing our captive bred purple tang and our leopard wrasse.

As stated before, all other fish seem to be fat and happy. This morning the blue hippo seems I'm assuming irritated (rightfully so). Looking like she's for sure going to get pulled if I had to guess.

 

[davito]

There were a couple of really good threads not long ago about UV sterilizers. From what I recall the conclusion I got is that at best they may help prevent ich (questionable) but will not do much once the infestation is underway.

If you are going to rely on the UV as a core part of ich management id say don’t go cheap. Invest in a powerful well designed UV and do some serious research.

Right now if you have an infestation your best bet is to focus on creating the absolute lowest stress environment for your fish. Hippos and tangs in general are known for susceptibility to Ich. They are schooling fish and in our tank live with a base layer of stress that makes them vulnerable to any swings in the environment.

I see you cycled then added fish. How long has the tank been running?
When were the fish added?
What are your parameters?

I think at this point you should start asking why the fish has ich and get help in the forum for ideas to treat beyond the UV. My 2 cents.

I also second the suggestion for a picture. Confirm the diagnosis.

I suppose I should've added my parameters and a little more detail as well haha apologies.

Parameters (as of yesterday) are
Temp 79 f
Ph 8.2 (red sea)
Nitrate 5.0 API
Nitrate 0-0.2 salifert
Ammonia 0 (red sea)
Phosphate 0 (API)
KH 8.2 (salifert)
Nitrite 0 (red sea)
Salinity 1.025

I was actually just looking into dosing some nitrates as the Kenya trees seemed somewhat upset and I figured the bottomed out nutritients are the likely culprit.

The tank itself has been set for the greater end of 3 months almost 4. "Live" sand was used as well as some rock from my very well established biocube that I've had for over a year.

I said I'm coming back but what I should have said was I'm starting to get serious again as 32 gallons just doesn't cut it

Cycling took less time than expected, however I waited the full 4 weeks mark prior to adding my first set of clowns. Just a transplant from the biocube.

A week passed by and Spot (clever name for a one spot) was added thereafter. Parameters remained within reason/stable and along came the remainder around week 8 or so. Everything has been eating and as I said before seems fat and happy.

I will for sure get a picture/video tomorrow the appear to be wart-like and if I recall correctly that's more like ich than it would be velvet or the others. Again I'll post pics ASAP

Hmmm.

Assuming you didn’t have any spikes then the hippo is displaying the typical stress response tangs show. Assuming it’s wild caught by the way.

How are the remaining fish doing now? I think the key now is to confirm diagnosis and start treatment immediately.

If your nutrients are I suggest increased feeding to help with immune strength. Feed a variety of frozen. Maybe batches of brine shrimp.

Your only options are to focus on immune system and stress in the tank and get the fish to fight it off OR (and likely most effective) QT and treat with copper.

If you want to do ich management system you’ll likely still have to qt the tang to treat. Especially if the infestation is bad.

There are various treatments out there you can try in the DT but results are mixed at best.

Just to be clear the UV will not help at this point. You need to start reducing the count of parasites in the tank to give your fish a chance.

Definitely post a pic!

I've posted below as well, but here are two pics of the poor gal. I am thinking of pulling her and placing her in either a brute container or a 20 gallon that I have sitting around and treating. My fear is the stress of catching her will be the end though

 

[sdreefer619]

If you have a fish only tank atm use the tank as a qt and add the ick antibiotics. Go to polo reef’s channel and he has a veterinary specialist that handles it but a 25w up sterilizer should be fine with the correct flow

UV will not erase ich once its established and address what passes through the UV channel and not what is pre-existing

I didn’t mean just add the uv bulb and you’re good. Gotta either fallow the tank and treat the fish or move the fish drain and clean the tank then put them back and medicate and then add the uv after.

 

[davito]

I know it's kinda hard to see but could this also be flukes? I'm gonna try getting a better pic/video later today before evening lights

 

[sgdnycct]

There were a couple of really good threads not long ago about UV sterilizers. From what I recall the conclusion I got is that at best they may help prevent ich (questionable) but will not do much once the infestation is underway.

If you are going to rely on the UV as a core part of ich management id say don’t go cheap. Invest in a powerful well designed UV and do some serious research.

Right now if you have an infestation your best bet is to focus on creating the absolute lowest stress environment for your fish. Hippos and tangs in general are known for susceptibility to Ich. They are schooling fish and in our tank live with a base layer of stress that makes them vulnerable to any swings in the environment.

I see you cycled then added fish. How long has the tank been running?
When were the fish added?
What are your parameters?

I think at this point you should start asking why the fish has ich and get help in the forum for ideas to treat beyond the UV. My 2 cents.

I also second the suggestion for a picture. Confirm the diagnosis.

I suppose I should've added my parameters and a little more detail as well haha apologies.

Parameters (as of yesterday) are
Temp 79 f
Ph 8.2 (red sea)
Nitrate 5.0 API
Nitrate 0-0.2 salifert
Ammonia 0 (red sea)
Phosphate 0 (API)
KH 8.2 (salifert)
Nitrite 0 (red sea)
Salinity 1.025

I was actually just looking into dosing some nitrates as the Kenya trees seemed somewhat upset and I figured the bottomed out nutritients are the likely culprit.

The tank itself has been set for the greater end of 3 months almost 4. "Live" sand was used as well as some rock from my very well established biocube that I've had for over a year.

I said I'm coming back but what I should have said was I'm starting to get serious again as 32 gallons just doesn't cut it

Cycling took less time than expected, however I waited the full 4 weeks mark prior to adding my first set of clowns. Just a transplant from the biocube.

A week passed by and Spot (clever name for a one spot) was added thereafter. Parameters remained within reason/stable and along came the remainder around week 8 or so. Everything has been eating and as I said before seems fat and happy.

I will for sure get a picture/video tomorrow the appear to be wart-like and if I recall correctly that's more like ich than it would be velvet or the others. Again I'll post pics ASAP

Hmmm.

Assuming you didn’t have any spikes then the hippo is displaying the typical stress response tangs show. Assuming it’s wild caught by the way.

How are the remaining fish doing now? I think the key now is to confirm diagnosis and start treatment immediately.

If your nutrients are I suggest increased feeding to help with immune strength. Feed a variety of frozen. Maybe batches of brine shrimp.

Your only options are to focus on immune system and stress in the tank and get the fish to fight it off OR (and likely most effective) QT and treat with copper.

If you want to do ich management system you’ll likely still have to qt the tang to treat. Especially if the infestation is bad.

There are various treatments out there you can try in the DT but results are mixed at best.

Just to be clear the UV will not help at this point. You need to start reducing the count of parasites in the tank to give your fish a chance.

Definitely post a pic!

I've posted below as well, but here are two pics of the poor gal. I am thinking of pulling her and placing her in either a brute container or a 20 gallon that I have sitting around and treating. My fear is the stress of catching her will be the end though

The pictures aren’t great but that doesn’t look like ich to me. The fact that no other fish are experiencing symptoms also tells it may not be ich. Would be helpful if you could get better pics or video.

@vetteguy53081
@Jay Hemdal

 

[davito]

As soon as I get home I'll be sure to get it!

 

[vetteguy53081]

These are mucus cones often from a skin irritation and at times are mixed in with ich and Often you will notice other occupants show no signs but recommended is to remove all fish and treat them as well using coppersafe or copper power for a full 30 days at 2.25ppm which they respond to well and add an air stone and monitor copper level with a reliable Copper Test kit such as Hanna Brand- No API brand. Also monitor Ammonia levels while in quarantine with a reliable test kit and add aeration during treatment using an air stone.

 

[davito]

The pictures aren’t great but that doesn’t look like ich to me. The fact that no other fish are experiencing symptoms also tells it may not be ich. Would be helpful if you could get better pics or video.

@vetteguy53081
@Jay Hemdal

The pictures aren’t great but that doesn’t look like ich to me. The fact that no other fish are experiencing symptoms also tells it may not be ich. Would be helpful if you could get better pics or video.

@vetteguy53081
@Jay Hemdal

 

[davito]

Sorry for the video/photo bomb but I think I got some good shots I hope