Water keeps browning! Any help is appreciated!

[Eddie.S]

So I am having an issue with my water. And am having issues finding any information on it as well. The water in my 30G tank had slowly turned brown,to the point where I couldn't see to the back of the tank. What I'm assuming to be detritus is overrunning the substrate,and I have to scrape the glass 2-3 times a week. I completely cleaned out my tank last Thursday. (100% water change, flushed my substrate as best I could) and it's already starting to brown out again. But is doing so at a substantially faster rate. Not sure if I should redrain and clean it again, but replace the substrate? Or if there's something I could do to treat my water . Any advice is greatly appreciated! Happy new year everyone!!

 

[vetteguy53081]

This is likely a bloom. its likely bacterial with algae stepping in from bright lighting.
What filter(s) are you using?
What is your Phosphate-ammonia=ph-salinity level ?
What test kits are you using?

Also known as bacterial blossom, bacterial bloom is a condition in which a sudden increase in the number of bacterial colonies occurs, specifically bacteria that are suspended in the water column. The bacteria grows so rapidly that collectively they become visible to the naked eye, causing the water to become milky/cloudy/hazy in appearance. This condition most often is seen in a newly started aquarium, but can also occur in a tank in which there is has been an increase in the nutrients in the water, particularly nitrates and phosphates. Excessive feeding of fish without cleaning the debris can also cause a sharp increase in nutrients that results in these blooms .
There are two types of bacteria at work in aquariums:

• Autotrophic Bacteria: Bacteria capable of synthesizing its own food from inorganic substances, using light or chemical energy. The beneficial bacterias are autotrophs.
• Heterotrophic Bacteria: Bacteria that cannot synthesize its own food and is dependent on complex organic substances for nutrition. The heterotrophs in the aquariums mineralize the organic waste (break down the uneaten food, fish waste, dead plant matter, etc. into ammonia).

It is more common that the heterotrophs are seen in bacterial blooms, not the trusted autotroph nitrifiers. It is the heterotrophs which are primarily responsible for creating the "bio-film" (slimy residue found on the tank walls and rocks. As the ammonia production increases due to the increased mineralization, the nitrifiers are slow to catch up and an ammonia spike occurs until the autotrophs reproduce enough to take care of it. Contrary to popular belief, bacterial blooms cause an ammonia spike, not the other way around.
It is unclear whether the autotrophic nitrifiers ever bloom into the water column or if they simply multiply too slowly to cause this effect.
Water changes will play a role as well as filter maintenance.

 

[Woodyman]

So I am having an issue with my water. And am having issues finding any information on it as well. The water in my 30G tank had slowly turned brown,to the point where I couldn't see to the back of the tank. What I'm assuming to be detritus is overrunning the substrate,and I have to scrape the glass 2-3 times a week. I completely cleaned out my tank last Thursday. (100% water change, flushed my substrate as best I could) and it's already starting to brown out again. But is doing so at a substantially faster rate. Not sure if I should redrain and clean it again, but replace the substrate? Or if there's something I could do to treat my water . Any advice is greatly appreciated! Happy new year everyone!!

Something else to keep in mind, brown residue could be diatoms. They typically occur on new tank start ups as well.

What type of water did you use to mix up your salt. Tap, RO, RO/DI?

Dinoflagellates also appear as brown, but they look more like snot vs a dusting that you typically see with diatoms.

 

[Eddie.S]

This is likely a bloom. its likely bacterial with algae stepping in from bright lighting.
What filter(s) are you using?
What is your Phosphate-ammonia=ph-salinity level ?
What test kits are you using?

Also known as bacterial blossom, bacterial bloom is a condition in which a sudden increase in the number of bacterial colonies occurs, specifically bacteria that are suspended in the water column. The bacteria grows so rapidly that collectively they become visible to the naked eye, causing the water to become milky/cloudy/hazy in appearance. This condition most often is seen in a newly started aquarium, but can also occur in a tank in which there is has been an increase in the nutrients in the water, particularly nitrates and phosphates. Excessive feeding of fish without cleaning the debris can also cause a sharp increase in nutrients that results in these blooms .
There are two types of bacteria at work in aquariums:

• Autotrophic Bacteria: Bacteria capable of synthesizing its own food from inorganic substances, using light or chemical energy. The beneficial bacterias are autotrophs.
• Heterotrophic Bacteria: Bacteria that cannot synthesize its own food and is dependent on complex organic substances for nutrition. The heterotrophs in the aquariums mineralize the organic waste (break down the uneaten food, fish waste, dead plant matter, etc. into ammonia).

It is more common that the heterotrophs are seen in bacterial blooms, not the trusted autotroph nitrifiers. It is the heterotrophs which are primarily responsible for creating the "bio-film" (slimy residue found on the tank walls and rocks. As the ammonia production increases due to the increased mineralization, the nitrifiers are slow to catch up and an ammonia spike occurs until the autotrophs reproduce enough to take care of it. Contrary to popular belief, bacterial blooms cause an ammonia spike, not the other way around.
It is unclear whether the autotrophic nitrifiers ever bloom into the water column or if they simply multiply too slowly to cause this effect.
Water changes will play a role as well as filter maintenance.

The filter I have for it is a "Marineland" hang on back filter. I replace the filter every 3-4 weeks as needed. I use "API Marine" test kits. Both reef and master kits. My phosphate is sitting between 0-.25ppm, ammonia is at .25 currently, PH is is sitting at 8.1, and my salinity is a 1.024 (32-33ppt). When I started the tank about 3 months ago, I added cycle boost, and also after I cleaned the tank. Thanks for all the info!

 

[Eddie.S]

Something else to keep in mind, brown residue could be diatoms. They typically occur on new tank start ups as well.

What type of water did you use to mix up your salt. Tap, RO, RO/DI?

Dinoflagellates also appear as brown, but they look more like snot vs a dusting that you typically see with diatoms

Are diatoms hard to get rid of? It took about 2 months the first time before it started browning. But less than a week this time. I used RO water for my mixture. And the brown that grows on the glass is slimy, where as on the substrate it kind of crusts over the top. I'll have to look into dinoflagellates. Thanks!

 

[vetteguy53081]

The filter I have for it is a "Marineland" hang on back filter. I replace the filter every 3-4 weeks as needed. I use "API Marine" test kits. Both reef and master kits. My phosphate is sitting between 0-.25ppm, ammonia is at .25 currently, PH is is sitting at 8.1, and my salinity is a 1.024 (32-33ppt). When I started the tank about 3 months ago, I added cycle boost, and also after I cleaned the tank. Thanks for all the info!

There's a reason I asked.
API kits are notorious for false readings and have let down may reefers hence the low price of $22 for a master kits. Your readings are likely higher than what you are getting.
MAR Bio wheel- This is a mechanical filter only and even with bio wheels is inadequate as you are missing chemical and biological filtration. Change the cartridges Bi weekly as the very little carbon in those catridges are spent quickly
Some suggestions:
-Take a good water sample to a trusted LFS that does NOT use api test kits and have them test your water and see what readings they come up with.
- seed the bio wheel with liquid bacteria such as Micro Bacter 7. The slower the wheel moves, the better. Do Not clean the wheel.
- Do a water change and reduce the intensity of the white light.
- Add a hang on skimmer such as Icecap K1-100 or K2-50.

What are you using for water movement? You may not have a whole lot of oxygen if the bio wheel is the only filter tank has.

 

[Planted Reef]

I'm voting diatoms. You won't believe all the stuff that's going to grow before the tank matures and settles down with all of this algae and bacterial blooms. Be patient it can take several months to a year to mature.

 

[Eddie.S]

There's a reason I asked.
API kits are notorious for false readings and have let down may reefers hence the low price of $22 for a master kits. Your readings are likely higher than what you are getting.
MAR Bio wheel- This is a mechanical filter only and even with bio wheels is inadequate as you are missing chemical and biological filtration. Change the cartridges Bi weekly as the very little carbon in those catridges are spent quickly
Some suggestions:
-Take a good water sample to a trusted LFS that does NOT use api test kits and have them test your water and see what readings they come up with.
- seed the bio wheel with liquid bacteria such as Micro Bacter 7. The slower the wheel moves, the better. Do Not clean the wheel.
- Do a water change and reduce the intensity of the white light.
- Add a hang on skimmer such as Icecap K1-100 or K2-50.

What are you using for water movement? You may not have a whole lot of oxygen if the bio wheel is the only filter tank has.

Much appreciated! Sorry for the late response. Do you have any suggestions on which test kits I should seek out? For the future? And $22?! I wish lol each kit is $50 at my local petco and I will start changing it out bi weekly. It has a second slot in the filter to add another filter. Would that be a good idea? Or just stick with the one, and switch it more frequently? I unfortunately don't have settings on my lights besides white and blue lights. And I've considered a protein skimmer, and will be picking one up as soon as I can. I have one in my Evo. And will also pick up some micro bacter 7 today and seed the bio wheel... I did NOT do that in the start... ‍also my water movement is mainly run by my powerhead. But I only have one in the tank.

 

[Woodyman]

Much appreciated! Sorry for the late response. Do you have any suggestions on which test kits I should seek out? For the future? And $22?! I wish lol each kit is $50 at my local petco and I will start changing it out bi weekly. It has a second slot in the filter to add another filter. Would that be a good idea? Or just stick with the one, and switch it more frequently? I unfortunately don't have settings on my lights besides white and blue lights. And I've considered a protein skimmer, and will be picking one up as soon as I can. I have one in my Evo. And will also pick up some micro bacter 7 today and seed the bio wheel... I did NOT do that in the start... ‍also my water movement is mainly run by my powerhead. But I only have one in the tank.

Petco ripped you off! Those kits can be found for 20-30$ typically.

For test kits there are different recommendations, depending on how you are going to test, and your comfort level. You may start with something easier to use, but eventually get more comfortable and move on to a more reliable testing method.

A good example is a titration test kit for Ca vs the Hanna testor for Ca. I love my Hanna meters but after seeing how that Ca meter works I would never want one, I'll stick with my titrations.

The easier testing is the more likely you are to do it. Generally Hanna meters fit that bill.

Personally I use the Hanna meters for Nitrate, Phosphate, and Alkalinity. I use Salifert for Ca and Mg.

I would use the second cartridge slot, and just replace one of them bi-weekly, alternating between the two. Those cartridges are much cheaper online, and if do buy in store bring up the online cost on your phone so they price match. Typically they are ~$10 online vs $20+ in store.

 

[MnFish1]

Are diatoms hard to get rid of? It took about 2 months the first time before it started browning. But less than a week this time. I used RO water for my mixture. And the brown that grows on the glass is slimy, where as on the substrate it kind of crusts over the top. I'll have to look into dinoflagellates. Thanks!

Its hard to tell from the picture - is the 'browning' on the glass and sand - or is it suspended throughout the water. It seems like this is part of setting up a new tank. I'm not sure I 'trust' the values in your test kit - and my guess is that marineland HOB is not large enough for that tank. Also if you're changing/cleaning it every 3 weeks you might be destroying your filtration capacity completely (i.e. there is not a lot of rock in your tank).

I think the API test kits (when done according to instructions) work just fine. The problem is the instructions are difficult (holding the bottle exactly vertical over the tubes, shaking for x seconds, etc etc). But as others have mentioned - it might be helpful to re-check your levels with another source.

Blooms, whether bacterial or algal - are caused by too many nutrients (and light itself is 'a nutrient'. Your low level of filtration and whatever you're adding to the tank is probably the cause (and the bare substrate - and too much light).

Hope this helps - There are plenty of DIY 'water polishers' using poly fiber, a power head and a small coke bottle - that will rapidly clear anything in the water.

 

[vetteguy53081]

Much appreciated! Sorry for the late response. Do you have any suggestions on which test kits I should seek out? For the future? And $22?! I wish lol each kit is $50 at my local petco and I will start changing it out bi weekly. It has a second slot in the filter to add another filter. Would that be a good idea? Or just stick with the one, and switch it more frequently? I unfortunately don't have settings on my lights besides white and blue lights. And I've considered a protein skimmer, and will be picking one up as soon as I can. I have one in my Evo. And will also pick up some micro bacter 7 today and seed the bio wheel... I did NOT do that in the start... ‍also my water movement is mainly run by my powerhead. But I only have one in the tank.

Hanna or salifert

 

[Eddie.S]

You guys are absolutely amazing! I appreciate all the help and info! I will look into upgrading my test kits. And getting some tests done on my water in the meantime. And will definitely be looking into a DIY 'water polisher' for the hideous look it currently has. The browning is suspended through the water for sure. I do monthly water changes. Only once did I completely change the water, out of fear, because it was far darker water than the pictures. But i knew something was up because it browned out again within a week. I will be adding more life rock, and getting a skimmer. And possibly getting some better lighting with adjustments. Can't thank you guys enough! And happy new year!!

 

[Dom]

The filter I have for it is a "Marineland" hang on back filter. I replace the filter every 3-4 weeks as needed. I use "API Marine" test kits. Both reef and master kits. My phosphate is sitting between 0-.25ppm, ammonia is at .25 currently, PH is is sitting at 8.1, and my salinity is a 1.024 (32-33ppt). When I started the tank about 3 months ago, I added cycle boost, and also after I cleaned the tank. Thanks for all the info!

Replacing the consumable cartridge isn't always enough. Is there a sponge in the filter? If so, I would suggest rinsing it weekly. During a water change, you can rinse out in the old tank water.

I had this issue with an Aquaclear 110. I wasn't rinsing the sponge and I had the same issue that you are posting about now. Now it is part of my weekly husbandry and everything is clear.

 

[Eddie.S]

My filters that I replace have the sponge on the replacement filter itself. So replacing the filter, replaces the sponge. The bio wheel is the only thing in it I don't have to replace. But I was doing it monthly, as the product suggested. So doing it bi weekly should help!

Replacing the consumable cartridge isn't always enough. Is there a sponge in the filter? If so, I would suggest rinsing it weekly. During a water change, you can rinse out in the old tank water.

I had this issue with an Aquaclear 110. I wasn't rinsing the sponge and I had the same issue that you are posting about now. Now it is part of my weekly husbandry and everything is clear.

 

[Eddie.S]

Just an update! Fish and tank are much happier now! Can't thank you guys enough! I spent weeks trying to diagnose it online. And in a day, you guys saved me! Didn't use any water clarifier either. Love this community!

 

[MnFish1]

Just an update! Fish and tank are much happier now! Can't thank you guys enough! I spent weeks trying to diagnose it online. And in a day, you guys saved me! Didn't use any water clarifier either. Love this community!

Curious - what worked?

 

[Eddie.S]

Curious - what worked?

Lights were a huge part, but changing filters more frequently, and adding the second one definitely helped. Only used the blue lights for 3 or 4 days. And that really cleared it out