Water question help please?

[Srh444]

None of these, I believe, should be measurably present in RODI water.

Aside from ceasing to use Vibrant, I would strongly re-take a look at your entire water process. Most notably, if you are not running your own RODI system, it is my opinion that you should be.

You have to take control over your water.

Well these results have been obtained in LFS water using Salifert test kits which are ALL in date.

While I accept that you have to look at your water, I don't feel it is worthy that I process my own RODI water. After all, I only have a 30g tank and I FEEL it is the responsibility of the LFS to have the appropriate and adequate water parameters for reefers like me!!

The additional costs of supplying a RODI system would seem inappropriate with regard to the size tank that I have. Undoubtedly, if I had a larger tank, 50g and above then a RODI system would be applicable but for a small tank I personally think it's a waste of money. After all, reefers like me depend on our LFS for RO and Saltwater!!

 

[BryanM]

Well your LFS rodi water is not good.

You're fine not doing your own, but you're going to need a better source of water, or get them to better their game on their RODI water.

Good luck, hope they will listen, that isn;t a good service they are providing if those test results are accurate.

 

[Srh444]

Well your LFS rodi water is not good.

You're fine not doing your own, but you're going to need a better source of water, or get them to better their game on their RODI water.

Good luck, hope they will listen, that isn;t a good service they are providing if those test results are accurate.

I agree the LFS water is not good, their RODI and saltwater parameters are too high. I have checked both as you can see from my results using Salifert test kits which are in date. It's no wonder that my tank water is giving me bad results - each time I do a water change using the LFS RODI and Saltwater the results are bad, hence this thread. I thought my water was bad, it's not mine, it's the LFS. How on earth do you address this?

 

[ScottJ]

Hello,

I am trying to adjust my Alk, Cal and Mag.

My last Parameters were: (All Salifert test kits used)
SG 1.026
Temp 25
pH 8.2
Alk 15
Cal Too low (colour of solution in vial didn't change colour)
Mag 1500
Phos 0.03
Nitrate 10

My LFS RO water:

Alk 14.1
Cal Too low - as above
Mag Too high - colour in vial doesn't change

My LFS Saltwater:

Alk 15
Cal 490
Mag 1480

After each water change, I dose with Vibrant, Algae Managemet and Fuel. I have Dr Tim's gel in the tank which I change every 30 day.

I don't mix my water myself as I only have a 30g tank. If I bought distilled water, does anyone know if this water would have Alk 0, Cal 0 and Mag 0. I could then dose accordingly to get the correct or better parameters.

Any advice would be most welcome.

Steve

You say for your tank water the calcium is too low because the color doesn't change. I don't understand. Ir you add a full syringe of reagent and the color doesn't from pink to blue, that would mean the calcium reading is ABOVE 500 ppm, above what the test can read. Not too low, too high.

Not to say this is your problem. Just doesn't make sense.

 

[ScottJ]

I agree the LFS water is not good, their RODI and saltwater parameters are too high. I have checked both as you can see from my results using Salifert test kits which are in date. It's no wonder that my tank water is giving me bad results - each time I do a water change using the LFS RODI and Saltwater the results are bad, hence this thread. I thought my water was bad, it's not mine, it's the LFS. How on earth do you address this?

Umm, if the LFS water is not good, the only 2 things you can do s 1, make your own, or 2, get it from a different LFS.

 

[bluemon]

Does your LFS have corals in their tanks?

I can’t imagine an LFS keeping corals alive long term with those numbers.

I really think your testing kit or method is a big factor. Can you ask the LFS what their parameters are?

 

[bluemon]

Here is my suggested plan of attack, as it seems your whole process is flawed.

1. Stop adding random stuff to your tank. At this point, in your 30g, half the water is probably chemicals to fix something. You don’t want that. I don’t know where you put your first step down wrong, but you are under the wrong impression your corals need constant food in a bottle, which caused an issue in algae, which needed another fix in a bottle, which needed another…. Just $$$ down the drain. Keep it simple. Fish poop and water changes.

2. Get a hold of your water parameters. You started off on the wrong foot there with the weird parameters, and at this point, if those numbers are true, even distilled water is better than your LFS. Do a big water change with a clean water source (best is your own RODI, but use distilled if you have no other options), mix your own salt, measure to see somewhere in the 8-10 alk range, and proceed.

3. Let the tank settle in without any chemical intervention. Do you still see algae problems? A few patches here or there is fine and healthy. Get some snails. Don’t dump algaecide. If it is an algae breakout in a biblical scale.l, then measure and post again with pictures.

 

[Srh444]

You say for your tank water the calcium is too low because the color doesn't change. I don't understand. Ir you add a full syringe of reagent and the color doesn't from pink to blue, that would mean the calcium reading is ABOVE 500 ppm, above what the test can read. Not too low, too high.

Not to say this is your problem. Just doesn't make sense.

When I add the reagent, the colour is already blue, not pink, so I assume the Calcium is high as you say.

 

[Srh444]

Well your LFS rodi water is not good.

You're fine not doing your own, but you're going to need a better source of water, or get them to better their game on their RODI water.

Good luck, hope they will listen, that isn;t a good service they are providing if those test results are accurate.

Thanks for your reply. I think I'll have to find another source or get distilled water and add my own salt as someone has suggested.

 

[Srh444]

Umm, if the LFS water is not good, the only 2 things you can do s 1, make your own, or 2, get it from a different LFS.

Thanks, I think I'll have to.

 

[Srh444]

Does your LFS have corals in their tanks?

I can’t imagine an LFS keeping corals alive long term with those numbers.

I really think your testing kit or method is a big factor. Can you ask the LFS what their parameters are?

Yes they do have corals but the Saltwater they sell to their customers is mixed in separate vats. The SG is always 1.025 which is what I prefer but I think I need to find a different source.

 

[Srh444]

Here is my suggested plan of attack, as it seems your whole process is flawed.

1. Stop adding random stuff to your tank. At this point, in your 30g, half the water is probably chemicals to fix something. You don’t want that. I don’t know where you put your first step down wrong, but you are under the wrong impression your corals need constant food in a bottle, which caused an issue in algae, which needed another fix in a bottle, which needed another…. Just $$$ down the drain. Keep it simple. Fish poop and water changes.

2. Get a hold of your water parameters. You started off on the wrong foot there with the weird parameters, and at this point, if those numbers are true, even distilled water is better than your LFS. Do a big water change with a clean water source (best is your own RODI, but use distilled if you have no other options), mix your own salt, measure to see somewhere in the 8-10 alk range, and proceed.

3. Let the tank settle in without any chemical intervention. Do you still see algae problems? A few patches here or there is fine and healthy. Get some snails. Don’t dump algaecide. If it is an algae breakout in a biblical scale.l, then measure and post again with pictures.

Thanks for your help the advice. I did a water change yesterday and sadly I put Algae Management in before reading your thread. I've not put anything else in. The algae comes off easily with a turkey baster and then I use a net or syphon it out. It's black looking and not much but it does appear on a few corals.

So if I buy some distilled water add some salt and test for Alk?

Thanks, Steve

 

[miller75]

Well these results have been obtained in LFS water using Salifert test kits which are ALL in date.

While I accept that you have to look at your water, I don't feel it is worthy that I process my own RODI water. After all, I only have a 30g tank and I FEEL it is the responsibility of the LFS to have the appropriate and adequate water parameters for reefers like me!!

The additional costs of supplying a RODI system would seem inappropriate with regard to the size tank that I have. Undoubtedly, if I had a larger tank, 50g and above then a RODI system would be applicable but for a small tank I personally think it's a waste of money. After all, reefers like me depend on our LFS for RO and Saltwater!!

RODI systems pay for them selves in the long run, if you dont want to get one do you have a spotless water near you https://www.spotlesswater.co.uk/ I havent used them but others have with no problems

 

[Srh444]

RODI systems pay for them selves in the long run, if you dont want to get one do you have a spotless water near you https://www.spotlesswater.co.uk/ I havent used them but others have with no problems

I have no idea if I can get spotless water. However, does anyone have spotless water near by, I doubt it?! I still feel reluctant to invest in a RODI system with a 30g tank. Personally I think it's a bit OTT, but I may beg to differ in order to sort my problem out

 

[BryanM]

I have no idea if I can get spotless water. However, does anyone have spotless water near by, I doubt it?! I still feel reluctant to invest in a RODI system with a 30g tank. Personally I think it's a bit OTT, but I may beg to differ in order to sort my problem out

Well, OTT maybe, but lets ask this.... How long do you intend on keeping the tank?

Besides RODI being the gold standard, it is also very convenient. Get yourself an inline tester and or a handheld, you can verify easily its 0 TDS, its all right at your fingertips ,no going to the LFS, or using distilled water and hoping there isn't any copper in it, etc.

Assuming you're planning on staying a reefer more than a year, then that probably turns in to 5+ years, and in this context it definitely pays for itself and I would not consider it OTT.

:)

 

[Srh444]

Well, OTT maybe, but lets ask this.... How long do you intend on keeping the tank?

Besides RODI being the gold standard, it is also very convenient. Get yourself an inline tester and or a handheld, you can verify easily its 0 TDS, its all right at your fingertips ,no going to the LFS, or using distilled water and hoping there isn't any copper in it, etc.

Assuming you're planning on staying a reefer more than a year, then that probably turns in to 5+ years, and in this context it definitely pays for itself and I would not consider it OTT.

:)

Well yes that is a fair point. I had a FOWLR in my 20s. But this time I wanted to have corals. In all honesty, as you suggest I think that's probably the best thing to do. At least I'll be able to monitor the water more efficiently and not rely on obscure readings from the LFS for their RODI and Saltwater.

 

[Dom]

I think it would be better if I stopped adding Vibrant and also to remove Dr Tim's gel as the Algae Managemet is doing the same job effectively. I have some corals, mostly zoas - I have been adding Fuel as food for them. Would you suggest stopping this too?

Any advice would be really helpful.

Thanks, Steve

And I think it would be a good idea to discontinue dosing EVERYTHING. Rely on good husbandry and faithful, weekly 20% water changes.

Reassess after 6-8 weeks and decide if dosing anything is necessary.

 

[Dom]

While I accept that you have to look at your water, I don't feel it is worthy that I process my own RODI water. After all, I only have a 30g tank and I FEEL it is the responsibility of the LFS to have the appropriate and adequate water parameters for reefers like me!!

I started in this hobby with a 20 gallon tank, and I was making my own RODI using a 5 stage from BRS when I started.

The responsibility to your tank is 100% yours and not the LFS.

It seems that you are relying heavily on the LFS for a successful tank. I wouldn't do that. Their goal is to get you to spend, as brick & mortar stores struggle to compete with their on line counterparts.

Is everything you are dosing at the recommendation of the LFS?

I feel you've made the right choice by consulting with the members here on R2R. Moving forward, I would double check here, anything your LFS is telling you.

 

[Srh444]

Well, OTT maybe, but lets ask this.... How long do you intend on keeping the tank?

Besides RODI being the gold standard, it is also very convenient. Get yourself an inline tester and or a handheld, you can verify easily its 0 TDS, its all right at your fingertips ,no going to the LFS, or using distilled water and hoping there isn't any copper in it, etc.

Assuming you're planning on staying a reefer more than a year, then that probably turns in to 5+ years, and in this context it definitely pays for itself and I would not consider it OTT.

:)

Well yes, I've been back in the hobby since 2022 and would like to continue doing so, after all I enjoy it. Albeit there are times when you have problems but generally things go reasonably well. I need to look into the RODI system to use at home. Any pointers on this please?

 

[Srh444]

And I think it would be a good idea to discontinue dosing EVERYTHING. Rely on good husbandry and faithful, weekly 20% water changes.

Reassess after 6-8 weeks and decide if dosing anything is necessary.

Yes this is a good idea. I really need to look into getting a RODI system and see how that goes.