What size overflow for a 125?

[Michael Hughes]

If anything, the free (non-drilled) one isn't in the best shape, the guy said, whereas reef ready, he said, it's recently resealed

Recently resealed would make me really nervous on a tank this big. I've personally resealed tanks up to 55 gallons but above that, I'd probably not risk resealing a tank that big without taking the panels apart. Have you seen it full of water?

If you did already buy it, definitely leak test for a good few days on a level surface.

How should I plumb it?

Do I do main 2 bean animals on one side, return + emergency on the other?

Assuming two holes in each overflow, I'd do a full siphon (smaller hole) and wet trickle emergency drain (larger hole) on one side, and a return (smaller hole) and dry emergency drain (larger hole) on the other.

 

[Michael Hughes]

Assuming two holes in each overflow, I'd do a full siphon (smaller hole) and wet trickle emergency drain (larger hole) on one side, and a return (smaller hole) and dry emergency drain (larger hole) on the other.

One thing I should mention if you go this route, is the overflow with the return will just hold stagnant water. To avoid this I drilled three 1/8" holes in the return line a few inches below water level, angled downwards to provide some flow into the chamber. This keeps water moving (it goes back out through the weir teeth into the DT) and should give me a habitat for cryptic sponges. Basically treating it like an extra sump compartment.

 

[vcnt]

One thing I should mention if you go this route, is the overflow with the return will just hold stagnant water. To avoid this I drilled three 1/8" holes in the return line a few inches below water level, angled downwards to provide some flow into the chamber. This keeps water moving (it goes back out through the weir teeth into the DT) and should give me a habitat for cryptic sponges. Basically treating it like an extra sump compartment.

Maybe I’ll steal your sponge idea

 

[vcnt]

To avoid this I drilled three 1/8" holes in the return line a few inches below water level, angled downwards to provide some flow into the chamber. This keeps water moving

Do you find this gives issues regarding back siphon when pump is off, like would the water keep sucking down until those holes are exposed?

If so, wont the dry be issue for sponges?

 

[exnisstech]

If anything, the free (non-drilled) one isn't in the best shape, the guy said, whereas reef ready, he said, it's recently resealed

This is a red flag. Many people think smearing some silicone inside on the seams is resealing which it isn't. I can't see someone's going to the trouble of cutting a tank apart, cleaning everything then reassembly it and selling it for $250 after doing all that work. Disassembling, cleaning old silicone and reassembling with new silicone is resealing. Anything less is like putting a bandaid on an injury that needs surgery.

 

[vcnt]

This is a red flag. Many people think smearing some silicone inside on the seams is resealing which it isn't. I can't see someone's going to the trouble of cutting a tank apart, cleaning everything then reassembly it and selling it for $250 after doing all that work. Disassembling, cleaning old silicone and reassembling with new silicone is resealing. Anything less is like putting a bandaid on an injury that needs surgery.

its been in use he said for cichlids

 

[exnisstech]

I'd still take a very close look even if it holds water If it's just silicone applied over old silicone I would pass but thats me. I've seen larger used glass tanks that held water with no visible seam concerns leak after being moved.

 

[exnisstech]

I think drilling is best but there are other options so I'll throw this out there even tho many people will say its a flood waiting to happen which is wrong if done correctly. I ran an old aqueon 180g with two eshopps hob overflows for 6 years and it did great.

 

[Michael Hughes]

Do you find this gives issues regarding back siphon when pump is off, like would the water keep sucking down until those holes are exposed?

If so, wont the dry be issue for sponges?

Yes, water in that chamber will drain down until the holes are exposed. For that reason I drilled the lowest hole only around 4" below water level, and I'll keep all the rock and sponges below that level. Just be sure to have enough empty space in the sump to hold the extra volume.

 

[vcnt]

. Just be sure to have enough empty space in the sump to hold the extra volume.

Extra volume was no worry to me, just was the sponges becoming exposed.

And does the water flow up and out?

Sorry for all the questions; your design really intrigues me

 

[Michael Hughes]

And does the water flow up and out?

Sorry for all the questions; your design really intrigues me

No worries!

I drilled the holes angled somewhat downward, and facing three different directions. The water moves toward the bottom (and sort of wraps around the rock structure) and that pushes extra water up and out through the weir teeth (i.e. from that chamber back into the display).

Seems like a good theory and I've had no issues with water stagnation so far. We'll see if the sponges like it. Since that chamber holds around 4 gallons, I figured it would be a good place for nonphotosynthetic filter feeders to live.

 

[vcnt]

No worries!

I drilled the holes angled somewhat downward, and facing three different directions. The water moves toward the bottom (and sort of wraps around the rock structure) and that pushes extra water up and out through the weir teeth (i.e. from that chamber back into the display).

Seems like a good theory and I've had no issues with water stagnation so far. We'll see if the sponges like it. Since that chamber holds around 4 gallons, I figured it would be a good place for nonphotosynthetic filter feeders to live.

Thank you!!

Once my tank is set up and running, I will definitely try something like this

 

[mcarroll]

Update - Im getting the reef ready 125 for $150.

How should I plumb it?

Do I do main 2 bean animals on one side, return + emergency on the other?

It's already fully redundant by design, but you can reoganize how you use it if you want.

 

[mcarroll]

I think drilling is best but there are other options so I'll throw this out there even tho many people will say its a flood waiting to happen which is wrong if done correctly. I ran an old aqueon 180g with two eshopps hob overflows for 6 years and it did great.

My system also ran on old-school overflows (specifically ones based on the "U tube" and not the ones that have a continuous channel) for 10+ years with basically no issues. Like anything else in the hobby it just has to be set up right. Seems like nobody does it this way anymore tho.

 

[exnisstech]

My system also ran on old-school overflows (specifically ones based on the "U tube" and not the ones that have a continuous channel) for 10+ years with basically no issues. Like anything else in the hobby it just has to be set up right. Seems like nobody does it this way anymore tho.

The "it's a flood waiting to happen" phrase has become internet fact. The only way I could cause a flood was if I cranked the return up so it was pushing more water than the overflows could drain. The people that never ran them just keep parroting that they overflow whenever power is interrupted which is not true.

 

[vcnt]

The "it's a flood waiting to happen" phrase has become internet fact. The only way I could cause a flood was if I cranked the return up so it was pushing more water than the overflows could drain. The people that never ran them just keep parroting that they overflow whenever power is interrupted which is not true.

Did you ever find the HOB overflows gave you any issues?

 

[exnisstech]

Did you ever find the HOB overflows gave you any issues?

Not in six years of use. Mine were louder than many people would probably like but I never lost a syphon or had a flood. I would never use one that required a continuous pump to keep air out of the u tube like I've seen. If a tank isn't tempered glass I would drill it vs using a hob but would have no hesitation running a hob on a tank with tempered glass. Drilling is so easy I see know reason not to drill unless the tank has tempered glass.

 

[vcnt]

Not in six years of use. Mine were louder than many people would probably like but I never lost a syphon or had a flood. I would never use one that required a continuous pump to keep air out of the u tube like I've seen. If a tank isn't tempered glass I would drill it vs using a hob but would have no hesitation running a hob on a tank with tempered glass. Drilling is so easy I see know reason not to drill unless the tank has tempered glass.

Thanks! An interesting take, like you said people on HOB’s all the time.

 

[Freenow54]

I’m upgrading to a 125 gallon tank soon (yay!)

I would need to drill it

Should I do two 18-24” overflows in each corner?
Would a single 18-24” center be good
What about a 33-36” center?

Im thinking of modular marine

Any other drilling tips are appreciated!

I have a modular marine . Dont forget as stock they are 3/4 bean animal configuration. However they will custom drill it to what you want. I forget the agreed on turnover rate . My tank is a 70 and mine is 1200 .So they grade them as to gallons of flow. Its over kill a bit . I believe those numbers are on the site or just ask . what its capable of . Mine is made so it wont overflow . I assume it relies on your pump flow more than anything

 

[vcnt]

I have a modular marine . Dont forget as stock they are 3/4 bean animal configuration. However they will custom drill it to what you want. I forget the agreed on turnover rate . My tank is a 70 and mine is 1200 .So they grade them as to gallons of flow. Its over kill a bit . I believe those numbers are on the site or just ask . what its capable of . Mine is made so it wont overflow . I assume it relies on your pump flow more than anything

I ended up getting the reef ready tank. Getting it in 3 hours