Who else struggles with plumbing?

BRS
OP
Miami Reef

Miami Reef

2500 Club Member
Review score
+0 /0 /-0
View Badges
Joined
Sep 8, 2017
Messages
3,480
Reaction score
2,692
Review score
+0 /0 /-0
Location
Miami
Since you're not glued together yet I'd put the outlet of the UV into the skimmer section to avoid bubbles. Or into your sock section.

I'm not sure if I'm understanding some of the suggestions above, I've never heard of anyone requiring all water go through your UV before going back to the display. That would require a huge unit in order for you to get the flow rate you need to your DT from the sump. Specially if you are actually trying to kill parasites with the dwell time. I'd think the wattage would be so large to meet that criteria it might over heat the tank.
Good idea. I can do this.

I cannot plumb the UV into my return. My plumbing is soft and complicated as it was done 10 years ago by random people. It’s a custom built tank and some parts were not done professionally. A plumber I called told me I’m being too perfectionistic when I was just telling him exactly what people on this forum said to me.

I am treating for parasites with copper. I just want UV to make my water clear and maybe to kill any parasites. I would of course like to plumb it with the return, but I need to call a professional who…will actually do the job.

Until then, I’ll just dump it into the skimmer section. The water might get double processed, but that’s the best I can do at this point.
 
AquaCave Logo Banner
OP
Miami Reef

Miami Reef

2500 Club Member
Review score
+0 /0 /-0
View Badges
Joined
Sep 8, 2017
Messages
3,480
Reaction score
2,692
Review score
+0 /0 /-0
Location
Miami
This is my return:

EE295615-B6DD-4790-8C40-553B1C404EC0.jpeg


This risk of causing a leak is not worth the benefit of a UV being plumbed a specific way. It’s just for bacteria and HD water.
 

Tamberav

5000 Club Member
Review score
+0 /0 /-0
View Badges
Joined
Jul 4, 2014
Messages
5,067
Reaction score
7,383
Review score
+0 /0 /-0
Location
Wauwatosa, WI
Since you're not glued together yet I'd put the outlet of the UV into the skimmer section to avoid bubbles. Or into your sock section.

I'm not sure if I'm understanding some of the suggestions above, I've never heard of anyone requiring all water go through your UV before going back to the display. That would require a huge unit in order for you to get the flow rate you need to your DT from the sump. Specially if you are actually trying to kill parasites with the dwell time. I'd think the wattage would be so large to meet that criteria it might over heat the tank.

I did the math and I can run my 55w at 875gph on a 80g.

If not all water passes through then you are having that many more parasites bypass it. Lowering effectiveness. So it’s not ideal.

Ofc it depends as different studies seem to list different rates for ich.
 
Last edited:

Tamberav

5000 Club Member
Review score
+0 /0 /-0
View Badges
Joined
Jul 4, 2014
Messages
5,067
Reaction score
7,383
Review score
+0 /0 /-0
Location
Wauwatosa, WI
This is my return:

EE295615-B6DD-4790-8C40-553B1C404EC0.jpeg


This risk of causing a leak is not worth the benefit of a UV being plumbed a specific way. It’s just for bacteria and HD water.

if it’s just bacteria then I would plumb it however you want. Bacteria isn’t as big a deal.
 
Tidal Gardens Black Friday Sale
OP
Miami Reef

Miami Reef

2500 Club Member
Review score
+0 /0 /-0
View Badges
Joined
Sep 8, 2017
Messages
3,480
Reaction score
2,692
Review score
+0 /0 /-0
Location
Miami
Not true. I did the math and I can run my 55w at 875gph on a 80g.

If not all water passes through then you are having that many more parasites bypass it. Lowering effectiveness. So it’s not ideal.
My tank has a 2000+ return pump.

I am going to call a reef maintenance company to check out my system on Wednesday. I do eventually want to fix things up. Maybe I’ll hold off on UV until they come
 

ying yang

2500 Club Member
Review score
+0 /0 /-0
View Badges
Joined
Apr 16, 2021
Messages
2,646
Reaction score
4,677
Review score
+0 /0 /-0
Location
Liverpool
Hi there,hope all is well.
I've never plumbed a uv into a tank but little tip when you glue your fittings together, which is hold the pipe and fitting together or fitting/ fitting together for say 10 seconds as if glue and press pipe into joint then let go off one piece then it slowly slides out a little.
Probably won't affect plumbing a uv together but I know can do if doing big enough job and a few mm can mess it all up .
Me personally If I was plumbing a uv and having it in sump or near sump I would have it above my sump incase any of the fittings leaked/ dripped then would drip into the sump ( providing can leave enough room to replace the bulb when that time comes ) how you would do that if choose to is upto you but I see your stand is wood so easy done by screwing another piece of wood to stand and using a few brackets on the pipe as it exits the uv unit to hold It in place above sump.
As I say I never plumbed a uv unit in but I know you can cut your flexible tubing and buy a fitting where one side fitting clamps onto your tubing and other side fitting glues to a rigid pvc fitting then you can then run rigid pipe etc.
 

ying yang

2500 Club Member
Review score
+0 /0 /-0
View Badges
Joined
Apr 16, 2021
Messages
2,646
Reaction score
4,677
Review score
+0 /0 /-0
Location
Liverpool
Would get something like this spigot so can put one end in plastic tubing and clamp it and get a female fitting glued on other side then run your pipe.
If cant get correct size spigot/socket fitting ,say its to big then you can put a reducer into the fitting which reduces the size ,the reduced glues in also .
But if take your uv unit to any plumbers merchant and tell them what you want to do im sure they help you out and give you exactly what's needed for you to do the job.
Or even speak to a member of staff at a hardware store and they should be able to help you out but plumbers merchant without a doubt be much cheaper

Screenshot_20211119-230402_Chrome.jpg

Edit: you can use a cleaner and or primer applied to the outside edge of the pipe/ inside fitting but I know I very rarely used either ,unless pipe or fittings was greasy or dirty then may use a cleaner first .
And I remember at college getting taught using a primer can actually make the joint weaker than if didnt use any primer at all .
But choice is yours and the pressures on a reef tank are going to be minumul,its not like its mains pressure ^_^

Anyway good luck and hope you sort it all out and get great enjoyment from your tank .
And a harlequin tusk is one my favourite fish.not sure If you mentioned it in this thread or the ich thread but either way it's a beautiful fish indeed with them blue gnarly nashers lol
 
Last edited:

Smite

Valuable Member
Review score
+0 /0 /-0
View Badges
Joined
Oct 17, 2015
Messages
1,945
Reaction score
2,066
Review score
+0 /0 /-0
Location
Garden Grove
This is my return:

EE295615-B6DD-4790-8C40-553B1C404EC0.jpeg


This risk of causing a leak is not worth the benefit of a UV being plumbed a specific way. It’s just for bacteria and HD water.
So that's pretty much what I use mine for as well. I'm only running 15w on a 75 and people always comment on how clear my water is. I originally got it thinking it could help with disease control but really tomonts will be in the sand and rock and once they hatch tomites there's no saying they hit the sump before latching onto the fish. Sure some will but stocking and good food sources that boost immune system are more effective.

The way you are doing it is fine for your intended use as long as you don't mind the extra pump. You'll be able to remove it easily for maintenance. If you split off your return line you'd be double processing anyways which isn't a big deal to me.

You got good tips for glue above. I'll add a few if you decide to do it yourself, honestly you should. You'll be able to have re done it 10x by the time you pay someone to do it. Service call alone will probably be $100 just to look at it.

I use christys red hot blue glue. If you decide to use clear, you really should use primer which negates the point of clear. Christy's you don't need to use primer (purple stuff).
First off set up a workspace. I like to use and old towel and a cardboard box to glue over. That way you dont need to worry about spill so much and you'll have a spot to set down glued fittings if need be. If you're super detailed then some painters tape so your glue doesnt drip and stain your pipe.

1. Mock up plumbing
2. It's good and you're ready to glue : Swab inside female end then swab outside male end. The glue chemically softens the pipe in the short time frame of that action. Some people don't realize the female end is actually tapered, so you need both sides soft in order to get a nice hot joint. If not you get a cold joint that can potentially leak.
3. Press the fittings together until fully seated and twist, then hold for a 5 count. I've just pressed them in and witnessed the male end slide back out, I believe from the tapered female side, but maybe from the heat of the reaction, i'm not sure.

Leaks are no fun and glue is a must. Don't get overwhelmed or discouraged with yourself. The price of learning will probably still be cheaper than having a "pro" do it. Take that added cost and buy some true unions. They help a ton with serviceability and also not having to nail an angle when glue it together. A UV is the perfect beginner project with the way you are doing it. It's not a critical part so. you can take your time. If you mess up no biggie few bucks in elbows and your back at it.
 

Jedi1199

Valuable Member
Review score
+0 /0 /-0
View Badges
Joined
Jan 16, 2021
Messages
1,278
Reaction score
3,049
Review score
+0 /0 /-0
Location
Mecred, CA.
I believe I have mentioned this in a thread or 2 in the past.. I HATE PLUBBING!!!!

I just last weekend plumbed in my new overflow box and sump. Took me 2 days to find the right parts and 3 trips to the hardware store to get it all and STILL flooded my living room on the first test cycle. Forgot that return pumps make great siphons when the power goes out!! ugghhhh
 
AquaCave Logo Banner

Protodad

Active Member
Review score
+0 /0 /-0
View Badges
Joined
Feb 16, 2020
Messages
151
Reaction score
137
Review score
+0 /0 /-0
Your soft plumbing makes this whole thread make a little more sense. To be clear, pvc cement goes on hard connections, not soft ones.

It looks like you have a return pump with soft plumbing from its output all the way up the the bottom of the stand. In this case you have a couple options.

1. Replumb the whole thing with hard pvc (it’s what I would do, but it might be daunting if you haven’t messed with it much).

2. Create a hard Tee in between the soft plumbing. You would need a pvc Tee and two barbed fittings. You cut the soft line and plug this in halfway. Then you have a hard connection to the UV. You would need to brace either the hard line or the UV.

3. Create a soft Tee with a barbed Tee fitting. You still need to brace the UV.

Any reef clubs nearby you can ask for advice? As many people love plumbing as hate it.
 

Protodad

Active Member
Review score
+0 /0 /-0
View Badges
Joined
Feb 16, 2020
Messages
151
Reaction score
137
Review score
+0 /0 /-0
For a bit of reference. Mine is between #1 and #2 but I like to make sure there is some soft plumbing from the return to reduce vibration. Return pump is in the sump on the right hand side. The first Tee coming off the vertical is for accessories (in this case a media reactor with soft plumbing). The second goes to the returns.

2754C714-BC4D-4EDE-B3C4-6B38DDBAC06C.jpeg
 
OP
Miami Reef

Miami Reef

2500 Club Member
Review score
+0 /0 /-0
View Badges
Joined
Sep 8, 2017
Messages
3,480
Reaction score
2,692
Review score
+0 /0 /-0
Location
Miami
I feel for you. The last some of months I've been here. Saw you go through a lot. If I was down there I would do it for free.
That’s really nice of you. Don’t worry though. I’m becoming resilient. :)
 
OP
Miami Reef

Miami Reef

2500 Club Member
Review score
+0 /0 /-0
View Badges
Joined
Sep 8, 2017
Messages
3,480
Reaction score
2,692
Review score
+0 /0 /-0
Location
Miami
Your soft plumbing makes this whole thread make a little more sense. To be clear, pvc cement goes on hard connections, not soft ones.

It looks like you have a return pump with soft plumbing from its output all the way up the the bottom of the stand. In this case you have a couple options.

1. Replumb the whole thing with hard pvc (it’s what I would do, but it might be daunting if you haven’t messed with it much).

2. Create a hard Tee in between the soft plumbing. You would need a pvc Tee and two barbed fittings. You cut the soft line and plug this in halfway. Then you have a hard connection to the UV. You would need to brace either the hard line or the UV.

3. Create a soft Tee with a barbed Tee fitting. You still need to brace the UV.

Any reef clubs nearby you can ask for advice? As many people love plumbing as hate it.

For a bit of reference. Mine is between #1 and #2 but I like to make sure there is some soft plumbing from the return to reduce vibration. Return pump is in the sump on the right hand side. The first Tee coming off the vertical is for accessories (in this case a media reactor with soft plumbing). The second goes to the returns.

2754C714-BC4D-4EDE-B3C4-6B38DDBAC06C.jpeg
Thank you SO much. This really helps a lot. I have an appointment with an aquarium maintenance company this Wednesday. I personally cannot do this muse because I cannot play with plumbing with the stakes being so high. I’d panic if I was all alone with my tank breaking apart from my stupidity. I think I’d rather watch and learn instead. To be honest, I’m REALLY bad at plumbing. I’m awful.

I don’t have connections for the reef clubs. I just want the job done correctly. Having your post helps me a ton as I will show the maintenance company this and see if they can do it.
 
Lazy's Coral House

Protodad

Active Member
Review score
+0 /0 /-0
View Badges
Joined
Feb 16, 2020
Messages
151
Reaction score
137
Review score
+0 /0 /-0
Thank you SO much. This really helps a lot. I have an appointment with an aquarium maintenance company this Wednesday. I personally cannot do this muse because I cannot play with plumbing with the stakes being so high. I’d panic if I was all alone with my tank breaking apart from my stupidity. I think I’d rather watch and learn instead. To be honest, I’m REALLY bad at plumbing. I’m awful.

I don’t have connections for the reef clubs. I just want the job done correctly. Having your post helps me a ton as I will show the maintenance company this and see if they can do it.
If you have bad luck with the aquarium company, a landscaper might be able to help. I know it sounds crazy but it’s the same parts aisle at the hardware store. They are also usually a little more willing to do something crazy…
 
Avast
Corals.com
Top