wrasses

[jelly]

I have a 180 and like to add some wrasses to it.. how many different kinds can I add without them fighting.. I looking to get flashers and fairy. do I have to add them all at one time or can I add them at different times from each other. here a list of what I would like to have. longfin Fairy Wrasse, Whip Fin Fairy Wrasse,Pink Margin Fairy Wrasse, Scott's Fairy Wrasse,Carpenter's Flasher Wrasse,Linespot Flasher Wrasse,Filamented Flasher Wrasse,Blue Flasher Wrasse.

 

[Mike&Terry]

If it were me, I'd remove the Whip Fin and Scotts from the list. Althought each fish has their own unique presonality, the rest should be ok together. You do not need to add them all at the same time, but I would highly recommend using an acclimation box to introduce new additions. This will give the wrasses a chance to "meet and greet" in a controlled manner and allow you the opportunity to observe their behavior before releasing the new fish.

If you don't already have one, a mesh screen top is a necessity with these fish as they can and will jump.

hth

-Terry

 

[jelly]

Y remove them 2.

 

[Aquaph8]

I agree with Terry, I'd replace the Scott's and whip fin too. I would add the flashers first and add them all at the same time.

 

[Mike&Terry]

Y remove them 2.

While there might be a very rare exception or two, they don't play well with other fairy wrasses.

 

[jelly]

Oh ok

 

[ingtar_shinowa]

Agree about the whip fin. Also a HUGE +1 on the box. I made one out of acrylic and have added all my wrasses via the box at separate times. Some fairy wrasse can show aggressiveness if they are too similar but I have found a box can reduce aggression a good bit. Evolved is a wrasse guru and you might want to hit him up. I've never heard of flashers going at one another though.
Stay away from the Pseudocheilinus genus which includes Six Line Wrasse and Mystery wrasse.

 

[jelly]

Thanks. I'll hit him up

Sent Via the R2R Forum APP

 

[evolved]

I'm going to respond here to keep the input of others going; you've been given good advice from other very knowledgeable people so far.

Here's the list I was sent via PM:
Longfin Fairy Wrasse (Cirrhilabrus rubriventralis)

Whip Fin Fairy Wrasse (Cirrhilabrus filamentosus)
​

Pink Margin Fairy Wrasse (Cirrhilabrus rubrimarginatus)

Scott's Fairy Wrasse (Cirrhilabrus scottorum)
​

Carpenter's Flasher Wrasse (Paracheilinus carpenteri)
Linespot Flasher Wrasse (Paracheilinus lineopunctatus)
Filamented Flasher Wrasse (Paracheilinus filamentosus)
Blue Flasher Wrasse (Paracheilinus cyaneus)

Yup, just as you've been told, those two need to go away; quite aggressive with other wrasses. The rest should be fine together. These no real "number" or "limit" to how many wrasses you can keep together; it's all a matter of what species you're trying to mix and how large the system is.

Using an acclimation box on each new addition is very much encouraged as well. It helps nix most potential aggression before it happens.

Your tank MUST be covered with 1/4" mesh with ZERO gaps or holes. You'll need to feed ~3 times a day, offering a variety of meaty foods.

 

[jelly]

thank you.. I do have a hood that covers the entire top.. would I still need a mesh covering?

 

[evolved]

What do you mean by a hood? Like a canopy?

The problem with canopies is they still leave a lot of things a jumping wrasse can get into; namely lights.

 

[jelly]

Canopy. My lights are 11 inches above the water

 

[Mike&Terry]

Canopy. My lights are 11 inches above the water

We have a canopy over our 300g display and while it might keep a wrasse from carpet surfing, it will not prevent injuries, especially mouth injuries caused when bouncing off light fixtures, etc... Depending on the severity of the injury, the wrasse may not be able to eat and can starve to death. The 1/4" mesh screening not only keeps the fish in, it also acts as a cushion against trauma.

-Terry

 

[jelly]

Oh OK

 

[ingtar_shinowa]

We have a canopy over our 300g display and while it might keep a wrasse from carpet surfing, it will not prevent injuries, especially mouth injuries caused when bouncing off light fixtures, etc... Depending on the severity of the injury, the wrasse may not be able to eat and can starve to death. The 1/4" mesh screening not only keeps the fish in, it also acts as a cushion against trauma.

-Terry

I lost a flasher do to trauma from leaping into a glass top the day I was building my mesh tops. Get the mesh screen from BRS but you can save a good deal by getting the aluminum frames splie, and brackets from a Home Improvement store.

I never knew the Scott's were aggressive until this thread (probably because I had never see one in my LFS and researched it)