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Depends on the electronics.. most will need a ro/di water rinse and alcohol electronics cleaner . others hair dryer and Hope... There is NO ONE Solution for all .. Open them and get the water out and Salt residue off is the Important first step...Just flooded my electrics. What do I do now?
How did you make out?Just flooded my electrics. What do I do now?
+1 on this. Great advice. Depending on what it is, and how bad it is, you may want to let it soak in a bucket of RO/DI water for at least a few hours. Then give it a good rinse in a denatured alcohol or alcohol based electronics cleaner. Whatever you do, don't re-energize it until everything is completely dry.Depends on the electronics.. most will need a ro/di water rinse and alcohol electronics cleaner . others hair dryer and Hope... There is NO ONE Solution for all .. Open them and get the water out and Salt residue off is the Important first step...
They can get quite warm . If you have the specs you could put Amp meter inline between the transformer 24v output and device its running then verify its running within the specs it should be pulling. Some Transformers are built better then others. Use Less power produce less heat and so on .. If you really feel its to hot and pulling to much all the time. Find a Better brand with same specs and change it out...hey I just put one on my house. It has a battery so it will be drawing a load until its charged. transformers do emit heat But I cannot tell you watt the norm is. You could unhook it and measure it then reattach.
I always splice the hot connection. There have been plenty of people shocked because they interrupt current flow with the neutral so lights/relays don't turn on but still have 120V on them. By interrupting power with the hot wire you put the light/relay at ground potential (neutral and ground should be tied together in the distribution panel).This should be a hanging curve ball for you.
I am currently working on an ATO using the kit from Aquahub. This requires splicing one wire from a 2-prong extension cord into a relay. The instructions do not say if I should worry about polarity or not. I know the wire going to the wide prong is neutral, etc., but if I am leaving one wire intact and splicing the other into the relay, is there a safer one to splice?
I always splice the hot connection. There have been plenty of people shocked because they interrupt current flow with the neutral so lights/relays don't turn on but still have 120V on them. By interrupting power with the hot wire you put the light/relay at ground potential (neutral and ground should be tied together in the distribution panel).
It's all good. A lot of people don't realize that your neutral connection is also tied to ground just like the ground prong on a 3 prong plug. Just splice the hot wire (should be black) and you will be fine.Thanks! I am not sure what you mean by your last sentence (about the distribution panel). It is not a 3-prong grounded extension cord that I was planning on using, but I can get one if that is safer. All the splicing will be in a project box well away from the water. Sorry if any of that information was unnecessary.
Breakers is one way to do it. You could also put the first GFCI receptacle for each circuit in an easy to access area and then run the ones under the stand for it. A GFCI receptacle will protect any outlets wired after it when installed to do so.So quick hopefully easy question. I am going to be doing a new build and will put in two new GFCI circuits for the new tank. Am I best off doing it with GFCI breakers or with outlets? I'm am leaning Breakers as it will be easier to reset than climbing under the stand if the need arises.
Thanks,
Tom
Breakers is one way to do it. You could also put the first GFCI receptacle for each circuit in an easy to access area and then run the ones under the stand for it. A GFCI receptacle will protect any outlets wired after it when installed to do so.
Personally, I would try to minimize the number of outlets under the stand and would try to run the power cords out to them. Even a regular receptacle can rust and be a hazard after a few years. Try to keep them all accessible imo. Power strips can be used under a tank and are easy to replace.
You could definitely do that. I feel that would be much safer. Not sure if putting the outlets on the outside edges of the stand would be an option.So what I can do is add the outlets to the back side of the wall (other side is unfinished laundry room) and put a small access in for the plugs to go through and plug into them through that in there. Should protect them better. Thoughts, would that provide some protection?