scriptmonkey
Valuable Member
I will see where the studs land, I could do that as well.. @Brew12 thank you for your time and knowledge, I greatly appreciate it. If I get in a bind I will shoot you a PM.
Your Resident Electrician for all your electrical questions!
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I will see where the studs land, I could do that as well.. @Brew12 thank you for your time and knowledge, I greatly appreciate it. If I get in a bind I will shoot you a PM.
You can also get a GFCI wall unit that has no receptacles. So you would put this in the accessible area and then wire the receptacles downstream. Breakers are are expensive, more difficult to replace, remote from the area you are trying to protect (meaning you have to run to the panel to reset then run to the tank) so I would just do a GFCI at the point of use.
Also some equipment will have a higher tendency to trip GFCI circuits so you will want a commercial grade one, not the cheapest one you can find. Ideally.
Also some equipment will have a higher tendency to trip GFCI circuits so you will want a commercial grade one, not the cheapest one you can find. Ideally.
luis carreiro
Active Member
Hello, does anyone know roughly what an electric bill will run for a 180 gal SPS tank. Sump and refugium in basement with DT on first floor.
Brew12
Electrical Gru
There are a lot of variables that come into play to even get in the ball park. Some of the biggest include your lighting plans and what temperature you heat and cool your house to. Any idea what you pay per KWH?
luis carreiro
Active Member
Thanks for helping me out Brew. House stays at 72. Basement will be unheated. Planning on 3 XR 30 Radions, Octopus Elite 330 INT DC skimmer or DOC skimmer 9410 DC, 2 200 w heaters, APex Neptune controller, Genesis AWC. Don't know what I pay for KWH at the moment- I'm at work.
Brew12
Electrical Gru
I'd guess roughly $30 per month on the typical month based on $0.13 per kwh.
luis carreiro
Active Member
Thanks Brew.
Spanky05
Active Member
Hello!
Have a question on what my options would be for a custom light canopy/housing.
I will be having a lighting company build me a t5 fixture that will house my 2 hydra 26hd's similar to how a aquaticlife fixture will be. I'm having them make it for mainly aesthetic reasons.
My question is what options do I have for turning this off/on and using a timer for the t5's? I would like for it to be installed like a normal light fixture where I wouldn't have to have any cords running out of the canopy and to the wall. Is that a realistic option? I'm just trying to keep this as clean as possible but not sure what options I really have.
Thank you for taking the time to do this type of thing for the feeding community!
Have a question on what my options would be for a custom light canopy/housing.
I will be having a lighting company build me a t5 fixture that will house my 2 hydra 26hd's similar to how a aquaticlife fixture will be. I'm having them make it for mainly aesthetic reasons.
My question is what options do I have for turning this off/on and using a timer for the t5's? I would like for it to be installed like a normal light fixture where I wouldn't have to have any cords running out of the canopy and to the wall. Is that a realistic option? I'm just trying to keep this as clean as possible but not sure what options I really have.
Thank you for taking the time to do this type of thing for the feeding community!
Brew12
Electrical Gru
The timer part is fairly easy. You will need to route power into the canopy via a cord of some type. It will most likely have to come from the wall or ceiling.
Hi, electrical experts. I have a question that has bugged me for awhile. About 10 feet away from my tank is a floor outlet. The floor outlet is a regular outlet (non-gfci) and is linked to a circuit breaker that is afci.
If I were to have a catastrophic tank failure, like a big earthquake hit and my rimless sprung a major leak, and water is all over the ground, what is the best way to protect me and my family?
Would the afci trip with large water exposure? There is a lip on the fixture so a minor leak probably wouldn’t get in. Should I just change it to gfci? It’s not in a very accessible position (haven’t touched in since moving in years ago, and I doubt I would test it frequently.
Thanks in advance!
If I were to have a catastrophic tank failure, like a big earthquake hit and my rimless sprung a major leak, and water is all over the ground, what is the best way to protect me and my family?
Would the afci trip with large water exposure? There is a lip on the fixture so a minor leak probably wouldn’t get in. Should I just change it to gfci? It’s not in a very accessible position (haven’t touched in since moving in years ago, and I doubt I would test it frequently.
Thanks in advance!
Brew12
Electrical Gru
Not a great position to be in. Making the outlet GFCI doesn't do much good in this case because the water will flow down into the house wiring. If this were on my setup I would replace the CAFCI breaker with a dual function AFCI/GFCI breaker.Hi, electrical experts. I have a question that has bugged me for awhile. About 10 feet away from my tank is a floor outlet. The floor outlet is a regular outlet (non-gfci) and is linked to a circuit breaker that is afci.
If I were to have a catastrophic tank failure, like a big earthquake hit and my rimless sprung a major leak, and water is all over the ground, what is the best way to protect me and my family?
Would the afci trip with large water exposure? There is a lip on the fixture so a minor leak probably wouldn’t get in. Should I just change it to gfci? It’s not in a very accessible position (haven’t touched in since moving in years ago, and I doubt I would test it frequently.
Thanks in advance!
Brew12
Electrical Gru
Not sure how bad of a thing it is. It should be fine if you don't have that drastic flood. Changing out circuit breakers isn't that hard.
This should be what you need.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Murray-20-Amp-AFCI-GFCI-Dual-Function-Circuit-Breaker-MP120DFP/205488021
Thank you for your help. Yes, I think I’ll go that route. And while I’m at it, will probably get the electrician to install a dedicated breaker for the tank. Been meaning to do that anyways.
Spanky05
Active Member
So if the power is routed from the ceiling, will I have to put in a wall switch with a timer?
I guess I'm unsure if this is going to be powered by a standard plug in the wall cord or powered by an overhead powerline. Once I find that out, I'll be able to nail down what I need to do.
Thank you!
Brew12
Electrical Gru
You can do it any number of ways, including putting the timer inside the canopy. Lots of options.
powers2001
started reefing 1999
@Brew12 I have a small tank with small stand/cabinet where I'm putting my electronics safe from water contact into. I have limited number of AC outlets and will have my Apex EB832 along with my wi-fi router in the cabinet. Can I connect one AC to DC converter power source with a Y-splitter cable to power both the Apex 12VDC power and wi-fi router 12VDC power? Will the 12V AC to DC supply that BRS sells for the Apex work for this?
fity2pounder
Active Member
If there are still electrical gurus out there willing to help...
I have one of those black box led panels with dimmers. Each color set (whites and blues) has it's own power supply/converter and dimmer. The white lights still work, but the blues stopped working. I took the box apart and switched the power plugs for each set of lighting. The white lights work using either power supply, but the blues don't work using either power supply. Therefore I am guessing it doesn't have to due with the power supply, but it's likely a short or a break. It appears that all of the wiring/soldering leading to each LED is covered in a paint coating/plating. Is there a way to use a Voltmeter to determine what's wrong? Thanks a million if anyone can direct me here!!!
I have one of those black box led panels with dimmers. Each color set (whites and blues) has it's own power supply/converter and dimmer. The white lights still work, but the blues stopped working. I took the box apart and switched the power plugs for each set of lighting. The white lights work using either power supply, but the blues don't work using either power supply. Therefore I am guessing it doesn't have to due with the power supply, but it's likely a short or a break. It appears that all of the wiring/soldering leading to each LED is covered in a paint coating/plating. Is there a way to use a Voltmeter to determine what's wrong? Thanks a million if anyone can direct me here!!!
Brew12
Electrical Gru
A voltmeter can be used to help troubleshoot. It would be an easy task to perform in person. It will be a challenge to try and do via a forum. But, if you want to try to work through it, we might be able to. Taking and posting pictures will be very important to figure out and explain test points.
fity2pounder
Active Member
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