Jax352

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Got a couple questions about this 10g aquarium I just set up. I have experience without larger 50g + aquariums. The light I’m running on it is a current orbit marine pro led 24”. I know the light is to powerful for the tank so I turned it down to 30% white and 60% blue. I have no experience with this light. Any recommendations on what percentages to run and how long I was thinking about 7-9 hours a day. Wanting to do some Ricordias, mushrooms, zoas, Duncan’s. What all corals do you guys think I could do with this light. Thanks in advance. Also I was wanting to get a small sand sifting goby thinking maybe a twin spot not sure
427B04E8-F510-4C63-88B9-087E824FDF7A.jpeg
 
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Doctorgori

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hiya Jax....I got2 of those, I personally wouldn’t use “too powerful” in the same sentence. If you can actually even grow coral with this thing, I doubt even more if you could burn them even at 10g depth.
Anyway,
Amazon has “2nd grade” lighting solutions under $100 not exactly Kessil quality but quite doable
Corals: Blastos, Duncans. zola’s, shrooms, gonipora/alevos, some of the chalices and again at 10g depth.
I dunno, I’d crank that thing up, adj the white channel for realism, and skip the goofy weather effects
just MHO ...get more low light coral input...bump
Schedule 8-12 hrs...I do 10, but opinions vary
editAdd its all guesswork anyway w/o a PAR meter
 
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Jax352

Jax352

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hiya Jax....I got2 of those, I would’not use “too powerful” in the same sentence. If you can actually even grow coral with this thing, I doubt even more if you could burn them even at 10g depth.
Oh the local LFS said they were alright reef lights just not to use to much white because it could hurt the corals. Also I was looking at the par reading on current USA. I’ll attach what I found. Appreciate you taking the time to respond :)

B05EDF9F-3082-4571-BFD7-99EBFF1BF928.png
 

Steven Garland

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Its definitely not too powerful. You are looking at average about at probably 60 par at the bottom of your tank.

I'm sure those par numbers are at 100%,so do the math on that and you are way lower than you think.
 

Doctorgori

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White light hurting corals is bunk and misleading. Stop by Dana’s lighting forum for a quick primer. Thing. is white light is a composite, in simplified terms. The relevant variable is actually the wavelength of the emission, which determines color (basically from blue to red, roughly) .
We also talk in color temps which is measured in Kelvins, and a different thing. Bluish is our 12K, “Sunlight” is around 5000ish (or “white”)
 
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White light hurting corals is bunk and misleading. Stop by Dana’s lighting forum for a quick primer. Thing. is white light is a composite, in simplified terms. The relevant variable is actually the wavelength of the emission, which determines color (basically from blue to red, roughly) .
We also talk in color temps which is measured in Kelvins, and a different thing. Bluish is our 12K, “Sunlight” is around 5000ish (or “white”), redsae “yellow are warm” and under 4000
Does color temp have to do with growth? Sorry not very knowledgeable
 

Doctorgori

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I’m having trouble with chrome, pardon any succinct tone, can’t edit the above post. But anyway, the Lighting Forum is pretty good here. IK’m no expert but in basic terms you need enough blue out of your light to grow corals. Again pardon the over simplification. Adjust the white channel to suit your taste. This is assuming the light is putting out the correct wavelength “somewhere”. I’ll spare you the long story about chlorophyll and what wavelengths the animal need but its a good read.

I’ll try and find you some links but hopefully you get some other post. Oh and color temp is a visual measurement, not a “spectral” measurement. VERY roughly if you go to a Box store you might find the following: “Cool White” is like 4800K (or more white), Usually Warm white is about 2800K and daylight bulbs are about 5000K ... usually a so called “Reef Light” features a Daylight/white channel and a Blue channel.
What matters is the Spectral qualities of the light. That’s the actual length of the emissions path in terms of length, believe it or not. Think of a sine wave. The shorter the cycle the more penetration, blue light has a shorter wavelenght than red and penetrates water better. The longer wavelengths like red cant penetrate materials like water as easily. All massless particles sorta behave like that all along the electromagnetic spectrum, including visible light. The Corals algae symbionts being in water have therefore evolved to use more blue. They still use red also, but a lot less. The whole algae/ch;lorophyl wavelenght thing is a dang lecture. You gotta read up that LFS was frankly wrong.
Edit add: the above is a gross oversimplification ...pardon
Oh and BRS has some pretty good lighting vids, waaay better than reading anything I post
 
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PBnJOnWheat

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Got a couple questions about this 10g aquarium I just set up. I have experience without larger 50g + aquariums. The light I’m running on it is a current orbit marine pro led 24”. I know the light is to powerful for the tank so I turned it down to 30% white and 60% blue. I have no experience with this light. Any recommendations on what percentages to run and how long I was thinking about 7-9 hours a day. Wanting to do some Ricordias, mushrooms, zoas, Duncan’s. What all corals do you guys think I could do with this light. Thanks in advance. Also I was wanting to get a small sand sifting goby thinking maybe a twin spot not sure
427B04E8-F510-4C63-88B9-087E824FDF7A.jpeg
Some smaller fish fs! Cool little tank definitely keep us posted
 
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Jax352

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I’m having trouble with chrome, pardon any succinct tone, can’t edit the above post. But anyway, the Lighting Forum is pretty good here. IK’m no expert but in basic terms you need enough blue out of your light to grow corals. Again pardon the over simplification. Adjust the white channel to suit your taste. This is assuming the light is putting out the correct wavelength “somewhere”. I’ll spare you the long story about chlorophyll and what wavelengths the animal need but its a good read.
Cool thanks for the info. Are they any reliable par meters that you know of?
 
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Jax352

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Update on 10g nano. Kevin (clownfish) seems acclimated to the lighting schedules and is eating well. It’s been about two weeks. Have nh3, no3, and no2. Waiting for them to level out. Just seen the first bit of diatoms.
image.jpg
 
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Did a water test this morning nh3 is about 1.2ppm no3 is about 75. Is this normal seems like it’s pretty high?
 
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Update 1 month: diatoms have gone away for the most part, getting green algae. Nh3 is about .3 no3 is about 50. Just have to continue waiting? Also can anyone I’d this hermit crab?
 

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