3D Printing thread

[Conor_K]

I was thinking the same thing.... I couldn't visualize it... Funny, I thought that printing threads would be hard, but it does such a good job all you have to do is run a tap through them to clean em up.

Hey Guys, sorry for the slow response, I wasn't getting notifications on this thread for some reason.
Here is what I am looking at. Most of these dimensions can be modified to make life easier on your side if needed.

The only two things I can change are the inside shaft diameter (has to fit the shaft of the motor I have) and the shaft length can be not shorter than specified (again to maintain clearance give the motor in hand).

Looking forward to your thoughts.

 

[Sisterlimonpot]

Hey Guys, sorry for the slow response, I wasn't getting notifications on this thread for some reason.
Here is what I am looking at. Most of these dimensions can be modified to make life easier on your side if needed.

The only two things I can change are the inside shaft diameter (has to fit the shaft of the motor I have) and the shaft length can be not shorter than specified (again to maintain clearance give the motor in hand).

Looking forward to your thoughts.

There's some measurements missing so I took some liberties like placement of the threaded holes and the stop for the shaft. Here's what I got

PM me your email address and I can send you the .stl so you can print it out...

 

[Conor_K]

Man, that looks solid, but I don't have a printer. Was hoping one of you fine folds might be willing to print a few for me, at at a cost of course..

 

[Sisterlimonpot]

Any one up for the task? Someone PM me for the stl file.

 

[Sisterlimonpot]

Man, that looks solid, but I don't have a printer. Was hoping one of you fine folds might be willing to print a few for me, at at a cost of course..

Does the threaded holes have to line up with anything? and the stop for the shaft dictates pulley alignment. Are those measurements critical for your use??

 

[Conor_K]

Does the threaded holes have to line up with anything? and the stop for the shaft dictates pulley alignment. Are those measurements critical for your use??

Really appreciate your time here.
This what I am working with. Threaded holes would need to line up with the flats of the shaft.

When you say “the stop for the shaft” do mean where it physically wont spin any more? If so, no I’ll be able to work out alignment.

 

[theatrus]

Hey Guys, sorry for the slow response, I wasn't getting notifications on this thread for some reason.
Here is what I am looking at. Most of these dimensions can be modified to make life easier on your side if needed.

The only two things I can change are the inside shaft diameter (has to fit the shaft of the motor I have) and the shaft length can be not shorter than specified (again to maintain clearance give the motor in hand).

Looking forward to your thoughts.

This is printable, with some concerns:

- Threaded in prints is a not going to work from a direct print perspective. You can undersize, and run a tap through them (but it will fail) or look for a press insert (better)
- I'd recommend printing it so the layers run through the pulley (put the face to the bed), or else you're likely to chew up any of the belts.

What are you driving with this?

 

[theatrus]

Really appreciate your time here.
This what I am working with. Threaded holes would need to line up with the flats of the shaft.

When you say “the stop for the shaft” do mean where it physically wont spin any more? If so, no I’ll be able to work out alignment.

If the shaft has two flats, I'd just look for press fitting it on (print a hole to match the shaft).

Do you have calipers or a way to measure that?

 

[Conor_K]

If the shaft has two flats, I'd just look for press fitting it on (print a hole to match the shaft).

Do you have calipers or a way to measure that?

I hadn't thought of that, but I really like that idea. Driving it with that worm gear motor pictured above.
There will be two of them that I am using to raise my canopy when needed. I have calipers somewhere. I'll get sharp measurements on it tomorrow.

Will be spooling a line similar to fishing line, but much thicker. Will only take 3 rotations max to reach the lift height I am looking for a with a 2.5" pitch diameter.

Cheers.
C

 

[Sisterlimonpot]

Really appreciate your time here.
This what I am working with. Threaded holes would need to line up with the flats of the shaft.

When you say “the stop for the shaft” do mean where it physically wont spin any more? If so, no I’ll be able to work out alignment.

Ah that makes more sense, do you have a profile view of that shaft? I thought that the 5/16 measurement was a stop, in fact it acts as a spline for the shaft, so I changed the cad a bit. Now that I see what it goes on, I can beef up the parts for the threads. depending on rotational speed and how tight you have to torque the set screws, 3d print might not be the best choice.

 

[Sisterlimonpot]

I hadn't thought of that, but I really like that idea. Driving it with that worm gear motor pictured above.
There will be two of them that I am using to raise my canopy when needed. I have calipers somewhere. I'll get sharp measurements on it tomorrow.

Will be spooling a line similar to fishing line, but much thicker. Will only take 3 rotations max to reach the lift height I am looking for a with a 2.5" pitch diameter.

Cheers.
C

Ahh, I see. if you're spooling wire, I would change the flange a bit, get rid of the 40 degree taper and tailor it to the thickness of the line.

Similar to this:

 

[theatrus]

Ah that makes more sense, do you have a profile view of that shaft? I thought that the 5/16 measurement was a stop, in fact it acts as a spline for the shaft, so I changed the cad a bit. Now that I see what it goes on, I can beef up the parts for the threads. depending on rotational speed and how tight you have to torque the set screws, 3d print might not be the best choice.

Lifting something has heavy as a canopy on wire would be a challenge for the lifetime of a 3d printed part, especially printing with the layers going the way I initially mentioned due to the shear strength between the layers is the weakest portion.

I'd get someone to turn it on a lathe out of whatever they have on hand personally - whats the lifting weight we are talking about?

 

[Conor_K]

Might be something to look into, though harder to find someone that has those tools probably.

Max weight is probably 30lbs and that might be very extreme. 15lbs in lights. 4x2 canopy.

I have two of these motors to do the work.
I wasn’t expecting it to be so difficult to find what I need as far as a pulley goes, but it certainly has been.
@Sisterlimonpot I’ll get some more pics and specific dims tomorrow. If nothing else, if you want to tweak that cad drawing for me, It would make life easier trying to find someone to turn a few for me.

Thanks,
Conor

 

[theatrus]

Might be something to look into, though harder to find someone that has those tools probably.

Max weight is probably 30lbs and that might be very extreme. 15lbs in lights. 4x2 canopy.

I have two of these motors to do the work.
I wasn’t expecting it to be so difficult to find what I need as far as a pulley goes, but it certainly has been.
@Sisterlimonpot I’ll get some more pics and specific dims tomorrow. If nothing else, if you want to tweak that cad drawing for me, It would make life easier trying to find someone to turn a few for me.

Thanks,
Conor

Just for grins, I made a rough version of the part in Fusion 360 which means you can edit it. Fusion has free personal/hobby licenses

Fusion

Share 2D and 3D design files and project files with anyone.

a360.co

Fusion 360 for Personal Use | Fusion 360 | Autodesk

Download Fusion 360 for personal, non-commercial use. Get access to free CAD, CAM, CAE and PCB software for qualifying individuals here.

www.autodesk.com

You can drop into the sketches to adjust any dimensions.

As for lifting 15-30lbs, thats a tough stretch. The motor also would absolutely hate having 30lbs hanging on its shaft from one axis - this should probably have a secondary bearing at the other end of the pulley.

 

[Conor_K]

Thank you guys so much for the feedback. AND the fusion360 hook up.
I don't need this kind of software often, but man it's frustrating not to have something cheap/free when I do.

Just to give more clarity, and in case you have a better way to skin this cat, I whipped up a quick image of my current plan.
The reason i am going this route is that i am replacing my current floating canopy. The mounts on the ceiling have been in place for quite some time and I really don't want to mess with them. So the goal is to add something to the 4 lines dropped from the ceiling that will allow me to raise the canopy a few inches when feeding and 17" when needed for maintenance.

When it is down it will be resting on the tank so no stress on the lines or motors most of the time.

Two motors, one in the front and one in the back is the current plan with pulleys in the corners.
My thought was since the motor will be forced upon equally from both sides there shouldn't be too much stress on the shaft.

I am very early on in this process and the motors I purchased were surprisingly inexpensive so I am all ears if you have a a better idea. This is a long term solution for my relatively new custom tank, so i am not trying to cut any corners.

Cheers,
Conor

 

[eggplantparrot]

i could probably turn something up on my lathe, either out brass or aluminum. it would be quite a bit stronger than FDM produced plastic i imagine, and it would be easy to thread.

i have a small lathe and i believe i have some 1" or 7/8" stock material. i could make a pulley that utilizes more of your motor shaft's length, but the small diameter would mean more turns to do what you want it to do.

let me know if you're interested. maybe someone with a bigger lathe can make what you designed out of 3" aluminum stock too.

 

[theatrus]

i could probably turn something up on my lathe, either out brass or aluminum. it would be quite a bit stronger than FDM produced plastic i imagine, and it would be easy to thread.

i have a small lathe and i believe i have some 1" or 7/8" stock material. i could make a pulley that utilizes more of your motor shaft's length, but the small diameter would mean more turns to do what you want it to do.

let me know if you're interested. maybe someone with a bigger lathe can make what you designed out of 3" aluminum stock too.

Jealous, always wanted one, only have space for a mill ;)

 

[theatrus]

Thank you guys so much for the feedback. AND the fusion360 hook up.
I don't need this kind of software often, but man it's frustrating not to have something cheap/free when I do.

Just to give more clarity, and in case you have a better way to skin this cat, I whipped up a quick image of my current plan.
The reason i am going this route is that i am replacing my current floating canopy. The mounts on the ceiling have been in place for quite some time and I really don't want to mess with them. So the goal is to add something to the 4 lines dropped from the ceiling that will allow me to raise the canopy a few inches when feeding and 17" when needed for maintenance.

When it is down it will be resting on the tank so no stress on the lines or motors most of the time.

Two motors, one in the front and one in the back is the current plan with pulleys in the corners.
My thought was since the motor will be forced upon equally from both sides there shouldn't be too much stress on the shaft.

I am very early on in this process and the motors I purchased were surprisingly inexpensive so I am all ears if you have a a better idea. This is a long term solution for my relatively new custom tank, so i am not trying to cut any corners.

Cheers,
Conor

This helps clarify the stresses, thanks!

I'd so run wild with the print, except in cases where it may cause injury (e.g., lifting with people under it), which gives me pause. I'd hate to see the canopy drop on someone while working on the tank.

 

[eggplantparrot]

Jealous, always wanted one, only have space for a mill ;)

i would really like to have a mill for what i usually do. had to learn to love round things instead of any other shape Lol

 

[Conor_K]

i could probably turn something up on my lathe, either out brass or aluminum. it would be quite a bit stronger than FDM produced plastic i imagine, and it would be easy to thread.

i have a small lathe and i believe i have some 1" or 7/8" stock material. i could make a pulley that utilizes more of your motor shaft's length, but the small diameter would mean more turns to do what you want it to do.

let me know if you're interested. maybe someone with a bigger lathe can make what you designed out of 3" aluminum stock too.

i just might take you up on this. Going to play around with fusion (and my calipers) and will go from there.